Personal Narrative of Travels to the Equinoctial Regions of America, During the Years 1799-1804, Vol.2 — Chapter 2.24, Part 9

On the northern bank of the Orinoco, opposite Caycara, is the mission of Cabruta, founded by the Jesuit Rotella, in 1740, as an advanced post against the Caribs.

An Indian village, known by the name of Cabritu,* had existed on the same spot for several ages.

(* A cacique of Cabritu received Alonzo de Herrera at his dwelling, on the expedition undertaken by Herrera for ascending the Orinoco in 1535. ) At the time when this little place became a Christian settlement, it was believed to be situate in 5 degrees latitude, or two degrees forty minutes more to the south than I found it by direct observations made at San Rafael, and at La Boca del Rio Apure.

No idea was then conceived of the direction of a road that could lead by land to Nueva Valencia and Caracas, which were supposed to be at an immense distance.

The merit of having first crossed the Llanos to go to Cabruta from the Villa de San Juan Baptista del Pao belongs to a woman.

Father Gili relates that Dona Maria Bargas was so devoted to the Jesuits that she attempted herself to discover the way to the missions.

She was seen with astonishment to arrive at Cabruta from the north.

She took up her abode near the fathers of St. Ignatius, and died in their settlements on the banks of the Orinoco.

Since that period the northern part of the Llanos has been considerably peopled;

and the road leading from the valleys of Aragua by Calabozo to San Fernando de Apure and Cabruta is much frequented.

The chief of the famous expedition of the boundaries made choice of the latter place in 1754 to establish dock-yards for building the vessels necessary for conveying his troops intended for the Upper Orinoco.

The little mountain that rises northeast of Cabruta can be discerned from afar in the steppes and serves as a landmark for travellers.

We embarked in the morning at Caycara; and driving with the current of the Orinoco, we soon passed the mouth of the Rio Cuchivero, which according to ancient tradition is the country of the Aikeambenanos, or women without husbands; and we there reached the paltry village of Alta Gracia, which is called a Spanish town.

It was near this place that Jose de Iturriaga founded the Pueblo de Ciudad Real, which still figures on the most modern maps, though it has not existed for fifty years past, on account of the insalubrity of its situation.

Beyond the point where the Orinoco turns to the east, forests are constantly seen on the right bank, and the llanos or steppes of Venezuela on the left.

The forests which border the river are not however so thick as those of the Upper Orinoco.

The population, which augments perceptibly as you advance toward the capital, comprises but few Indians, and is composed chiefly of whites, negroes, and men of mixed descent.

The number of the negroes is not great; but here, as everywhere else, the poverty of their masters does not tend to procure for them more humane treatment.

An inhabitant of Caycara had just been condemned to four years' imprisonment, and a fine of one hundred piastres for having, in a paroxysm of rage, tied a negress by the legs to the tail of his horse, and dragged her at full gallop through the savannah till she expired.

It is gratifying to record that the Audiencia was generally blamed in the country for not having punished more severely so atrocious an action.

Yet some few persons, who pretended to be the most enlightened and most sagacious of the community, deemed the punishment of a white contrary to sound policy, at the moment when the blacks of St. Domingo were in complete insurrection.

Since I left those countries, civil dissensions have put arms into the hands of the slaves; and fatal experience has led the inhabitants of Venezuela to regret that they refused to listen to Don Domingo Tovar, and other right-thinking men, who, as early as the year 1795, lifted up their voices in the cabildo of Caracas, to prevent the introduction of blacks, and to propose means that might ameliorate their condition.

After having slept on the 10th of June in an island in the middle of the river (I believe that called Acaru by Father Caulin), we passed the mouth of the Rio Caura.

This, the Aruy and the Carony, are the largest tributary streams which the Orinoco receives on its right bank.

All the Christian settlements are near the mouth of the river;

and the villages of San Pedro, Aripao, Urbani, and Guaraguaraico, succeed each other at the distance of a few leagues.

The first and the most populous contains only about two hundred and fifty souls.

San Luis de Guaraguaraico is a colony of negroes, some freed and others fugitives from Essequibo.

This colony merits the particular attention of the Spanish Government, for it can never be sufficiently recommended to endeavour to attach the slaves to the soil, and suffer them to enjoy as farmers the fruits of their agricultural labours.

The land on the Caura, for the most part a virgin soil, is extremely fertile.

There are pasturages for more than 15,000 beasts; but the poor inhabitants have neither horses nor horned cattle.

More than five-sixths of the banks of the Caura are either desert, or occupied by independent and savage tribes.

The bed of the river is twice choked up by rocks: these obstructions occasion the famous Raudales of Mura and of Para or Paru, the latter of which has a portage, because it cannot be passed by canoes.

At the time of the expedition of the boundaries, a small fort was erected on the northern cataract, that of Mura; and the governor, Don Manuel Centurion, gave the name of Ciudad de San Carlos to a few houses which some families, consisting of whites and mulattos, had constructed near the fort.

South of the cataract of Para, at the confluence of the Caura and the Erevato, the mission of San Luis was then situated; and a road by land led thence to Angostura, the capital of the province.

All these attempts at civilization have been fruitless.

No village now exists above the Raudal of Mura; and here, as in many other parts of the colonies, the natives may be said to have reconquered the country from the Spaniards.

The valley of Caura may become one day or other highly interesting from the value of its productions, and the communications which it affords with the Rio Ventuari, the Carony, and the Cuyuni.

I

have shown above the importance of the four tributary streams which the Orinoco receives from the mountains of Parima.

Near the mouth of the Caura, between the villages of San Pedro de Alcantara and San Francisco de Aripao, a small lake of four hundred toises in diameter was formed in 1790, by the sinking of the ground, consequent on an earthquake.

It was a portion of the forest of Aripao, which sunk to the depth of eighty or a hundred feet below the level of the neighbouring land.

The trees remained green for several months; and some of them, it was believed, continued to push forth leaves beneath the water.

This phenomenon is the more worthy of attention as the soil of these countries is probably granitic.

I doubt the secondary formations of the Llanos being continued southward as far as the valley of Caura.

On the 11th of June we landed on the right bank of the Orinoco at Puerto de los Frailes, at the distance of three leagues above the Ciudad de la Piedra, to take altitudes of the sun.

The longitude of this point is 67 degrees 26 minutes 20 seconds, or 1 degree 41 minutes east of the mouth of the Apure.

Farther on, between the towns of La Piedra and Muitaco, or Real Corona, are the Torno and Boca del Infierno, two points formerly dreaded by travellers.

The Orinoco suddenly changes its direction; it flows first east, then north-north-west, and then again east.

A little above the Cano Marapiche, which opens on the northern bank, a very long island divides the river into two branches.

We passed on the south of this island without difficulty; northward, a chain of small rocks, half covered at high water, forms whirlpools and rapids.

This is La Boca del Infierno, and the Raudal de Camiseta.

The first expeditions of Diego Ordaz (1531) and Alonzo de Herrera (1535) have given celebrity to this bar.

The Great Cataracts of the Atures and Maypures were then unknown; and the clumsy vessels (vergantines), in which travellers persisted in going up the river, rendered the passage through the rapids extremely difficult.

At present no apprehension is felt in ascending or descending the Orinoco, at any season, from its mouth as far as the confluence of the Apure and the Meta.

The only falls of water in this space are those of Torno or Camiseta, Marimara, and Cariven or Carichana Vieja.

Neither of these three obstacles is to be feared with experienced Indian pilots.

I dwell on these hydrographic details because a great political and commercial interest is now connected with the communications between Angostura and the banks of the Meta and the Apure, two rivers that lead to the eastern side of the Cordilleras of New Grenada.

The navigation from the mouth of the Lower Orinoco to the province of Varinas is difficult only on account of the current.

The bed of the river nowhere presents obstacles more difficult to be surmounted than those of the Danube between Vienna and Linz.

We meet with no great bars, no real cataracts, until we get above the Meta.

The Upper Orinoco, therefore, with the Cassiquiare and the Rio Negro, forms a particular system of rivers, where the active industry of Angostura and the shore of Caracas will remain long unknown.

I obtained horary angles of the sun in an island in the midst of the Boca del Infierno, where we had set up our instruments.

The longitude of this point according to the chronometer is 67 degrees 10 minutes 31 seconds.

I attempted to determine the magnetic dip and intensity, but was prevented by a heavy storm of rain.

As the sky again became serene in the afternoon, we lay down to rest that night on a vast beach, on the southern bank of the Orinoco, nearly in the meridian of the little town of Muitaco, or Real Corona.

I found the latitude by three stars to be 8 degrees 0 minutes 26 seconds, and the longitude 67 degrees 5 minutes 19 seconds.

When the Observantin monks in 1752 made their first entradas on the territory of the Caribs, they constructed on this spot a small fort.

The proximity of the lofty mountains of Araguacais renders Muitaco one of the most healthy places on the Lower Orinoco.

There Iturriaga took up his abode in 1756, to repose after the fatigues of the expedition of the boundaries; and as he attributed his recovery to this hot rather than humid climate, the town, or more properly the village, of Real Corona took the name of Pueblo del Puerto sano.

Going down the Orinoco more to the east, we left the mouth of the Rio Pao on the north, and that of the Arui on the south.

The latter river, which is somewhat considerable, is often mentioned by Raleigh.

The current of the Orinoco diminished in velocity as we advanced.

I measured several times a base along the beach, to ascertain the time taken by floating bodies in traversing a known distance.

Above Alta Gracia, near the mouth of the Rio Ujape, I had found the velocity of the Orinoco 2. 3 feet in a second; between Muitaco and Borbon it was only 1. 7 foot.

The barometric observations made in the neighbouring steppes prove the small slope of the ground from the longitude of 69 degrees to the eastern coast of Guiana.

We found in this country, on the right bank of the Orinoco, small formations of primitive grunstein, superimposed on granite (perhaps even embedded in the rock).

We saw between Muitaco and the island of Ceiba a hill entirely composed of balls with concentric layers, in which we perceived a close mixture of hornblende and feldspar, with some traces of pyrites.

The grunstein resembles that in the vicinity of Caracas; but it was impossible to ascertain the position of a formation which appeared to me to be of the same age as the granite of Parima.

Muitaco was the last spot where we slept in the open air on the shore of the Orinoco: we proceeded along the river two nights more before we reached Angostura, which terminated our voyage.

It would be difficult for me to express the satisfaction we felt on landing at Angostura, the capital of Spanish Guiana.

The inconveniences endured at sea in small vessels are trivial in comparison with those that are suffered under a burning sky, surrounded by swarms of mosquitos, and lying stretched in a canoe, without the possibility of taking the least bodily exercise.

In seventy-five days we had performed a passage of five hundred leagues (twenty to a degree) on the five great rivers, Apure, Orinoco, Atabapo, Rio Negro, and Cassiquiare; and in this vast extent we had found but a very small number of inhabited places.

After the life we had led in the woods, our dress was not in the very best order, yet nevertheless M. Bonpland and I hastened to present ourselves to Don Felipe de Ynciarte, the governor of the province of Guiana.

He received us in the most cordial manner, and lodged us in the house of the secretary of the Intendencia.

Coming from an almost desert country, we were struck with the bustle of the town, though it contained only six thousand inhabitants.

We admired the conveniences which industry and commerce furnish to civilized man.

Humble dwellings appeared to us magnificent; and every person with whom we conversed seemed to be endowed with superior intelligence.

Long privations give a value to the smallest enjoyments; and I cannot express the pleasure we felt when we saw for the first time wheaten bread on the governor's table.

Sensations of this sort are doubtless familiar to all who have made distant voyages.

A painful circumstance obliged us to sojourn a whole month in the town of Angostura.

We felt ourselves on the first days after our arrival tired and enfeebled, but in perfect health.

M.

Bonpland began to examine the small number of plants which he had been able to save from the influence of the damp climate; and I was occupied in settling by astronomical observations the longitude and latitude of the capital,* as well as the dip of the magnetic needle.

(* I found the latitude of Santo Tomas de la Nueva Guiana, commonly called Angostura, or the Strait, near the cathedral, 8 degrees 8 minutes 11 seconds, the longitude 66 degrees 15 minutes 21 seconds.

) These labours were soon interrupted.

We were both attacked almost on the same day by a disorder which with my fellow-traveller took the character of a debilitating fever.

At this period the air was in a state of the greatest salubrity at Angostura; and as the only mulatto servant we had brought from Cumana felt symptoms of the same disorder, it was suspected that we had imbibed the germs of typhus in the damp forests of Cassiquiare.

It is common enough for travellers to feel no effects from miasmata till, on arriving in a purer atmosphere, they begin to enjoy repose.

A certain excitement of the mental powers may suspend for some time the action of pathogenic causes.

Our mulatto servant having been much more exposed to the rains than we were, his disorder increased with frightful rapidity.

His prostration of strength was excessive, and on the ninth day his death was announced to us.

He was however only in a state of swooning, which lasted several hours, and was followed by a salutary crisis.

I was attacked at the same time with a violent fit of fever, during which I was made to take a mixture of honey and bark (the cortex Angosturae): a remedy much extolled in the country by the Capuchin missionaries.

The intensity of the fever augmented but it left me on the following day.

M.

Bonpland remained in a very alarming state which during several weeks caused us the most serious inquietude.

Fortunately he preserved sufficient self-possession to prescribe for himself; and he preferred gentler remedies better adapted to his constitution.

The fever was continual and, as almost always happens within the tropics, it was accompanied by dysentery.

M.

Bonpland displayed that courage and mildness of character which never forsook him in the most trying situations.

I was agitated by sad presages for I remembered that the botanist Loefling, a pupil of Linnaeus, died not far from Angostura, near the banks of the Carony, a victim of his zeal for the progress of natural history.

We had not yet passed a year in the torrid zone and my too faithful memory conjured up everything I had read in Europe on the dangers of the atmosphere inhaled in the forests.

Instead of going up the Orinoco we might have sojourned some months in the temperate and salubrious climate of the Sierra Nevada de Merida.

It was I who had chosen the path of the rivers; and the danger of my fellow-traveller presented itself to my mind as the fatal consequence of this imprudent choice.

After having attained in a few days an extraordinary degree of exacerbation the fever assumed a less alarming character.

The inflammation of the intestines yielded to the use of emollients obtained from malvaceous plants.

The sidas and the melochias have singularly active properties in the torrid zone.

The recovery of the patient however was extremely slow, as it always happens with Europeans who are not thoroughly seasoned to the climate.

The period of the rains drew near; and in order to return to the coast of Cumana, it was necessary again to cross the Llanos, where, amidst half-inundated lands, it is rare to find shelter, or any other food than meat dried in the sun.

To avoid exposing M. Bonpland to a dangerous relapse, we resolved to stay at Angostura till the 10th of July.

We spent part of this time at a neighbouring plantation, where mango-trees and bread-fruit trees* were cultivated.

(* Artocarpus incisa.

Father Andujar, Capuchin missionary of the province of Caracas, zealous in the pursuit of natural history, has introduced the bread-fruit tree from Spanish Guiana at Varinas, and thence into the kingdom of New Grenada.

Thus the western Coasts of America, washed by the Pacific, receive from the English Settlements in the West Indies a production of the Friendly Islands.

) The latter had attained in the tenth year a height of more than forty feet.

We measured several leaves of the Artocarpus that were three feet long and eighteen inches broad, remarkable dimensions in a plant of the family of the dicotyledons.

END OF VOLUME 2.

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