Cruising Voyage Around the World — Island of Gorgona part 2 and Galapagos Islands

_Aug.

7. _ We gave Sen. _Morell_ and _Navarre_ their Ships, and all the Goods we could not carry away, for what Money our Agents receiv’d of ’em, tho’ they expected to have had ’em at an easier Rate.

We came to sail this Morning; the dividing the Plunder has took up more Time than we were willing to spare; but ’twas absolutely necessary to do it.

We took Sen. _Navarre_ with us before we came to sail: I went ashore, and shew’d Sen. _Morell_ how we left things between his Ship and the other Prize.

Mr. _Navarre_ left his Son-in-law in charge of this Vessel and Goods, then came with me on board our Ships, expecting to have the Bark betwixt him and our Ransomers, if they paid us at _Guiaquil_.

Wind veerable in the South West Quarter, a Lee Current.

_August 8. _ Yesterday at 6 in the Evening the Island of _Gorgona_ bore S.

by E. distant 6 Leagues.

Just before Night we took our Men out of the Bark, and left her in possession of an old _Indian_ Pilot, and some Negroes and _Indian_ Prisoners, putting our ordinary Ransomer aboard to go in her, as we agreed on before we came out.

I and Capt. _Dover_ sign’d a Paper to protect them from being seiz’d by the _Spaniards_, if they should lose Company with us; but order’d them not to stir from us.

I also desir’d the _Spaniards_ aboard the _Duke_, who had agreed for her, strictly to charge the Crew in the Bark not to leave us willingly, which they did, because our Agreement was not in Writing, but only Verbal, promising us 15000 Pieces of Eight for the Bark and her Cargo, including the Remainder of the Towns Ransom, we designing to have it under their hand in _Spanish_ and _English_ to morrow, before we would wholly let go the Bark: But this Morning, to our surprize, the Bark was out of sight.

The _Marquiss_ is very crank, and sails heavy on a Wind.

We held the following Committee to endeavour to help the _Marquiss_’s sailing.

At a Committee held on board the _Dutchess_ at Sea, off the Island _Gorgona, August 8th, 1709_.

Memorandum, _The_ Marquiss _not answering our Expectations, but proving crank and sailing heavy: We now advise Capt. _ Cooke _to heave the_ Dutchess’_s two heavy Guns overboard, and 20 Boxes of Snuff, with two spare Top-masts, and bring his Ship more by the Stern, stowing every thing as low as possible in the Ship, to endeavour to make her stiffer, and if he finds any thing more necessary for the Benefit of the Ship, we desire him to do it.

Witness our Hands.

_ Signed by the Majority of our Council.

Amongst our Prisoners taken on board Sen. _Navarre_’s Ship from _Panama_, there was a Gentlewoman and her Family, her eldest Daughter a pretty young Woman of about 18, was newly married, and had her Husband with her.

We assign’d them the Great Cabin aboard the Galleon, and none were suffer’d to intrude amongst them, or to separate their Company; yet the Husband (I was told) shew’d evident Marks of Jealousy, the _Spaniards_ Epidemick Disease; but I hope he had not the least Reason for it amongst us, my third Lieutenant _Glendall_ alone having charge of the Galleon and Prisoners: For being above 50 Years of Age, he appear’d to be the most secure Guardian to Females that had the least Charm, tho’ all our young Men have hitherto appear’d modest beyond Example among Privateers; yet we thought it improper to expose them to Temptations.

At this time Lieut.

_Connely_, who behav’d himself so modestly to the Ladies of _Guiaquil_, was some days in possession of _Navarre_’s Ship before we stopt here, to remove these Prisoners aboard the Galleon, where he gain’d their Thanks and publick Acknowledgments for his Civilities to these Ladies, and even the Husband extols him.

We had notice these Ladies had some conceal’d Treasure about them, and order’d a Female Negro that we took, and who spoke _English_, to search them narrowly, and found some Gold Chains and other things cunningly hid under their Clothes.

They had before deliver’d to Capt. _Courtney_ Plate and other things of good Value.

We gave them most of their wearing Apparel and Necessaries, with 3 Female Mullatto Slaves, and parted very friendly.

They confess’d to our People, who put them ashore, that we had been much civiller than they did expect, or believe their own Countrymen would have been in the like case, and sent back the Husband with Gold to purchase some Goods and two Slaves of us.

I come next to the Description of _Gorgona_.

[Sidenote: _From Gorgona towards Manta, in Peru.

_] _Gorgona_ is 3 Leagues in Length, N. E.

and S. W.

but narrow.

It’s about 6 Leagues from the Main, full of Wood and tall Trees, one of ’em call’d _Palma Maria_, of which the _Spaniards_ make Masts, and use a Balsam that flows from it for several Diseases.

The Island appears at a distance indifferent high, and in 3 Hummocks.

There is Riding for Ships all over against the North East Side; but in some places foul Ground, and shoal’d near the Shore, particularly on the South East Side, and near the South West End, where there’s a small Island almost joining, with Shoal Ground, and Breakers near a Mile to the Eastward from that End.

Capt. _Dampier_ has been here several times, but never rode where we did, which is the best and only good Road in the Island.

The _Spaniards_ told us of strange Storms and heavy Turnadoes of Wind about this Island; but we found it otherwise, and had only frequent Showers and Thunder: But in the time of Breezes, which the _Spaniards_ call our Winter Months, and in Spring, till the Beginning of _May_, here are now and then Northerly strong Breezes of Wind, and then I believe the Road must be shifted to the other Side of the Island, which may be at that time the best Riding; but this we had no Time to try, neither do I think it half so bad as these puny Mariners tell us.

About this Island are several remarkable Rocks, at the South West End there’s one looks like a Sail half a Mile off shore; at the North East End there are several high ones, round and steep, near a Cable’s Length off Shore, where the Sea-Fowls breed.

The Beasts and Insects, we saw in this Island are Monkeys, Guinea Pigs, Hares, Lizards, Lion Lizards, which change their Colours, and are fine Creatures to look at, several Species of great and small Snakes, and so numerous, that ’tis dangerous for a Man to walk the Island, for fear of treading on them.

There’s great Variety of Plants and Trees peculiar to these hot Climates, and little or nothing resembling what we have in _Great Britain_; but it being out of my Road to describe such things, I refer ’em to such whose Talents lie that way.

Here are also several sorts of Fish unknown in our Seas, besides Mullets in great Plenty, but hard to be caught with Hook and Line, which I suppose is occasion’d by the Clearness of the Water, so that they easily see the Hook and avoid it.

Here’s also some white Coral, and abundance of Oysters, and as I am told by the Prisoners, good Pearls in them.

We caught an ugly Creature here, which I suppose may be of the Monkey Kind, because it look’d like one of the middling sort, but with this difference; his Hair was thicker and longer, his Face, Eyes and Nose less, and more wrinkled and deformed; his Head of the same Shape, but his Ears not so large; his Teeth longer and sharper, his hinder Parts more clumsey, and his Body thicker in proportion, with a very short Tail, and instead of 5 Claws like Fingers as a Monkey has, he had only 3 on each Paw, with the Claws longer and sharper.

We let one of ’em go at the lower part of the Mizon Shrowds, and it was about 2 Hours getting to the Mast Head, which a Monkey would have performed in less than half a Minute; he mov’d as if he had walk’d by Art, keeping an equal and slow Pace, as if all his Movements had been directed by Clock-work, within him.

The _Spaniards_ call it a _Sloth_, and not improperly; they say it feeds on the Leaves of a certain lofty Tree, and when it has clear’d one, before it can get down and walk a little Way to find and climb another, would grow lean and be almost starved.

I saw no Land Birds here; because I suppose the Monkeys destroy their Nests and Eggs: We shot many of them, and made Fricassees and Broth for our sick Men; none of our Officers would touch them, Provisions being not yet so scarce; but Capt. _Dampier_, who had been accustomed to such Food, says he never eat any thing in _London_ that seemed more delicious to him than a Monkey or Baboon in these Parts.

_August 9. _ I propos’d sending the _Marquiss_ to _India_, and thence to _Brazil_; and then we could add to our own Stock of Bread and salt Provisions, and if she got well to _Brazil_, would vend her Goods at an extraordinary Rate, to the Advantage of the Voyage, and we two should be strong enough to wait for the _Manila_ Ship, but Capts.

_Dover_ and _Courtney_ did not think it reasonable.

_August 10. _ We got to wind-ward very slowly, here being a constant Current, which runs down to Leward into the Bay of _Panama_.

[Sidenote: _From Gorgona towards Manta, in Peru.

_] _August 11. _ Yesterday Afternoon I went aboard the _Dutchess_, and carried with me Doctor _Dover_; we discoursed about parting with Capt. _Cooke_, and giving him only a Sailing Crew to go for _Brazil_, and sell his Cargo; but finding the Majority against my Proposition, I dropt it, tho’ I fear we shall repent it, were there no other Reasons but to save Provisions.

Capt. _Cooke_ came to us a-board the _Dutchess_, to put in Execution the Order of the 8th instant, where we agreed as before to throw 2 of the heaviest Guns over-board he had out of the _Dutchess_, being less valuable than the Goods between Decks, and what Lumber they had besides, which he did, and we perceive his Ship much stiffer, and sails better; our Consort, Capt. _Courtney_ and his Officers, with some of mine, are uneasie at parting with the Bark, so that if we come up with her, we must take to her again for Peace sake.

_August 12. _ Yesterday Evening, the Island of _Gorgona_ was in sight, and bore E. half S. about 13 Leagues.

At 6 this Morning, we met with the Bark, and put Mr. _Selkirk_ aboard her, with his Crew.

At 9 this Morning, we sent our Boat for Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Cooke_, when we had a second Consultation, which again concluded with keeping the _Marquiss_ and Bark: Tho’ I was of Opinion, they’d be rather a Detriment than Furtherance to us in any thing, so long as the _Marquiss_ sails so heavily, besides the Benefit of more Provisions that would have been left for us that must stay behind.

_August 13. _ In the Evening last Night, we saw the Island of _Gallo_, bearing S. by E. distant 6 Leagues.

We have a strong Current runs to Leward, so that we lost Ground, and at 8 this Morning was again in sight of _Gorgona_, bearing N. E.

by E. distant about 12 Leagues; had rainy Weather all Night, with Thunder and Lightning, but indifferent fair in the Morning.

Wind veerable in the S. W.

Quarter.

This Coast is more subject to hot Weather than any other Part of _Peru_.

_August 15_.

We sounded several Times in the Night, and had Ground in about 50 Fathom Water, not above two Leagues off Shore.

_August 16. _ This Day I muster’d our Negroes aboard the _Duke_, being about 35 lusty Fellows; I told them, That if we met the _Spaniards_ or _French_, and they would fight, those that behav’d themselves well should be free Men; 32 of ’em immediately promis’d to stand to it, as long as the best _Englishman_, and desired they might be improv’d in the Use of Arms, which some of them already understood; and that if I would allow ’em Arms and Powder, these would teach the rest.

Upon this, I made _Michael Kendall_, the _Jamaica_ free Negro, who deserted from the _Spaniards_ to us at _Gorgona_, their Leader, and charged him to be continually exercising them, because I did not know how soon we might meet an Enemy: I took down the Names of those that had any, and such as wanted I bestow’d Names on them, and to confirm our Contract made them drink a Dram all round to our good Success; at the same time I gave ’em Bays for Clothes, and told them they must now look upon themselves as _Englishmen_, and no more as Negro Slaves to the _Spaniards_, at which they express’d themselves highly pleas’d: I promise my self good Assistance from them, if need be, having this Proverb on their Side, that Those who know nothing of Danger fear none; and for our own Parts, we must not submit to be Prisoners, tho’ forced to engage at the greatest Disadvantage, but every one resolve to stand to the last, for if taken we shall be worse than Slaves.

_August 18. _ At 6 this Morning we saw a Sail, which bore W. N.

W.

of us;

we and the _Dutchess_ gave Chace, and took her in about an Hour.

The _Dutchess_ had kept her Company ever since 12 at Night, and thought her to be our Bark.

She was a Vessel of about 70 Tun, bound from _Panama_ to _Lima_, but was to stop at _Guiaquil_.

They had very little aboard besides Passengers, for they knew of our being in these Seas: The best of her Cargo was about 24 Negroes, Men and Women.

I sent our Agent aboard, to examine the Prize.

_August 19. _ After Dinner aboard the _Dutchess_, we examin’d the Prisoners; they could tell us little News from _Europe_, but said there came Advices by a Packet to _Portobell_ from _Spain_, and by a _French_ Ship from _France_, not long before they came out of _Panama_; that all was kept private, only they heard in _Panama_, that his Royal Highness Prince _George_ of _Denmark_ was dead,[136] which we were not willing to believe, but drank his Health at Night, which can do him no Hurt if he is dead.

We read several Letters from _Panama_, by which we understood, that when they heard of our taking _Guiaquil_, they kept their Gates shut Day and Night for above a Week, and that the Inhabitants kept Guard on their Walls, being afraid we should attack them next, and by what I can guess, we might have taken that Town as well as _Guiaquil_, had we but double our Number of Men.

They had various Conjectures about us when at _Panama_, and were continually allarm’d, not knowing where to expect us.

_August 20. _ At 10 in the Morning we bore down to the _Dutchess_, who had _Spanish_ Colours flying, to make a sham Fight to exercise our Men and the Negroes in the Use of our great Guns and small Arms.

Here I must not forget a _Welchman_ that came to me, and told me, He took the Ship we were going to engage for the _Dutchess_, till he saw the _Spanish_ Colours, and that being over-joyed with the Hopes of a good Prize, he had loaded his Musket with Shot, and design’d to fire amongst the thickest of ’em, which he would certainly have done, had he not been forbid.

By this it appears, that blundering Fools may have Courage.

During this sham [Sidenote: _In Tecames Road.

_] Engagement, every one acted the same Part he ought to have done, if in earnest, firing with Ball excepted.

Our Prisoners were secured in the Hold by the Surgeons, who had their Instruments in order, and to imitate Business for them, I order’d red Lead mixt with Water to be thrown upon two of our Fellows, and sent ’em down to the Surgeons, who, as well as the Prisoners in the Hold of the Ship, were very much surpriz’d, thinking they had been really wounded, and the Surgeons actually went about to dress them, but finding their Mistake, it was a very agreeable Diversion.

_August 23. _ Yesterday, at one in the Afternoon, we tack’d and stood for the Shore, but at two we drew near discolour’d Water, and sounded, had but 8 Fathom, and very near an ugly Shoal, which the _Spaniards_ tell me runs off about 2 Leagues from the Shore, off a high white Cliff, 3 Leagues to the N. of _Tecames_.

At 6 last Night, Cape St. _Francisco_ bore S. by W. distant about 6 Leagues.

We sounded again, and had 40 Fathom Water.

We stood off at Night, and at 6 in the Morning tack’d for the Shore.

The Wind is here always more Southerly, as we draw near the Equinox.

_August 24. _ At 10 this Morning, I went with Captain _Dover_ aboard the _Dutchess_, where we agreed to send the Bark into _Tecames_, being now under our Lee, and we to follow them.

We order’d our Linguist to buy Provisions of the _Indians_ there, and put several Men well arm’d a-board, to keep the Bark till our Ship could arrive near enough to protect her, if occasion, in Case of an Attack.

_August 25. _ About 2 Yesterday in the Afternoon we bore away for _Tecames_, after the Barks.

I went aboard the _Dutchess_, and found our Pilot, and most of the _Spaniards_, who are generally ignorant, uncertain whether it was the Port under our Lee, tho’ I never saw more remarkable Land; this made us the more timerous, and me in particular, because Capt. _Dampier_, who was here last Voyage, and said he had pass’d near it very often, was full as dubious as our selves, that never saw it: This occasion’d me to hurry aboard our own Ship to secure her;

for I doubted our being near Shoals, because the Water was very thick and white.

Capt. _Courtney_ sent his Pinnace a Head sounding, and we follow’d, he having then all the Pilots aboard.

We kept the Lead sounding from 40 to 13 Fathom Water, very uneven Depths, till we came within 2 Leagues of the Anchoring place.

We had every Cast about 14 Fathom Water, and saw the Houses by the Water-side; then I was easy and satisfied.

Before we got in, the Barks were at Anchor, and our Linguist, Mr. _White_, without Orders, ventur’d a-shore with a _Spanish_ Prisoner; we design’d that the Prisoner alone should discourse the _Indians_, and try to trade for a Refreshment: It was Night as they landed, just against the Houses where the _Indians_ lay in Ambush, with Fire-Arms, Bows, Arrows, and Lances, among the Trees, and fir’d several Times at our Boats, tho’ they told the _Indians_ in _Spanish_, that they were Friends, and call’d to them often to forbear firing.

Our Men having the good Luck to escape being shot, they hid themselves all Night, whilst we feared they were either kill’d or taken; but at Day-light they call’d again to the _Indians_, and prevail’d with them to trade for what we wanted, provided their Padre would give Consent, he lived about 6 Leagues off, and they promis’d to send and ask his Leave.

Our Linguist told them we had a Padre aboard, whom we esteemed, and he would absolve them, if they traded with us: Upon this, they desired we would permit him to come a-shoar, which we granted.

[Sidenote: _In Tecames Road.

_] _August 26. _ The Padre aboard, who was zealous to conclude this Treaty with the _Indians_ to our Content, went this Morning a-shore, and return’d a-board in the Evening; while he was a-shore, he writ a Letter to the Priest of the place in our Favour, earnestly recommending a Trade, and expressing the many Civilities we shewed to him and the other _Spanish_ Prisoners, beyond their Expectation, adding that we were sensible of the smallest Favours, and would not fail of making very grateful Returns.

He convinc’d the Inhabitants ashore, and also inform’d the Padre, how easily we could land, and burn the Church and Houses, and lay waste all the adjacent Parts; but that we were full of Charity, and very kind to those in our Power.

This wrought so well on the People, that they promis’d faithfully they would only wait till to morrow, and if the Padre did not consent, would notwithstanding trade with us.

They brought with them a naked _Indian_, who like a Savage view’d very narrowly every Part of our Ship; he was wonderfully taken with the Great Cabbin, where he lay on his Side, scarce satisfy’d after an Hour’s gazing wildly about him, till giving him a Dram of Brandy, and a few Toys to be rid of this Visitant, I obligingly led the Gentleman out, and giving him old Bays for Clothing, our Yall carried him ashore, to influence the rest by our kind Usage of him.

At the same time all the rest of our Boats full of Casks, with the Men well arm’d, went up the Creek between us and the Village, for fresh Water, where they accidentally met one of the chief _Indians_ painted, and armed with Bows and Arrows: He came friendly, and advised them to go higher up the River, otherwise the Water would be brackish: They offer’d him a Dram out of a Quart Bottle of strong Brandy; he drank the major Part of it at once, and went away extreamly pleas’d, telling them we should be supply’d with what we wanted from the Village.

_August 27. _ Last Night the Boats came from the Village Laden with Water, and brought a Letter from the _Tecames_ Padre, assuring us he would not obstruct our Trade.

The Inhabitants also told us, that Cattle, Hogs and Plantains would be ready for us, and desir’d we should bring ashore Bays and other Goods to pay for ’em, which we did, and this Morning our Boats return’d with Black Cattle and Hogs, leaving Capt. _Navarre_, one of our chief Prisoners, and Mr. _White_ our Linguist, to deal with the _Indians_.

This Morning we began to heel and clean our Ships Bottoms, and sent several of our best Sailors, and two Carpenters, to assist the _Marquiss_.

Ashore our Men keep one half at Arms, while the rest load the Boats, left the _Indians_, who are generally treacherous, should watch an Opportunity to fall on ’em.

Our People that came off the Shore took particular notice, that the red Paint with which the _Indians_ were at first daub’d, was a Declaration of War, and after we had amicably treated with them, they rub’d it off, but still kept their Arms.

We sent them 3 large Wooden _Spanish_ Saints, that we had out of _Morell_’s Ship, to adorn their Church, which they accounted a great Present; and I sent a feather’d Cap to the chief _Indian’s_ Wife, which was likewise very well accepted, and I had a Present of Bows and Arrows in requital.

_August 28. _ Yesterday in the Afternoon we made an end of heeling and cleaning our Ship; our Boats brought from the Shore at several times Water, Plantains, and other Provisions, with Hogs, and 2 Black Cattle.

Our Linguist and Prisoner manage their Business beyond Expectation, selling very ordinary Bays at 1 Piece of Eight and half _per_ Yard, and other things in proportion, so that we have Provisions very cheap.

_August 29. _ Capt. _Cooke_ buried one _John Edwards_, a Youth, who died of a Complication of Scurvey and the Pox, which he got from a loathsome Negro, whom we afterwards gave to the Prisoners, that she might do no further Mischief on board.

In the Afternoon we concluded how to proceed from this Place as follows.

At a Committee held on board the _Duke_ the _29th_ of _August, 1709_.

in _Tecames_ Road.

_We have consider’d our mean Stock of Provisions, and that our Time is far spent; therefore do think it for the good of the Voyage to part with several Negroes, besides those taken in the last Prize, and to make as good a Contract as we can with two or more of the substantial Prisoners, and to return their Produce to Alderman_ Batcheller _and Company, our Owners in_ Bristol, _in the best manner we can, having no other Method to make an advantage of them; we now being design’d to cruize for the_ Manila _Ship: But if any Accident parts us, then our Place of Rendevouz is in the Latitude of Cape_ Corientes _in sight of Land.

It is likewise agreed to sell the Hull of the last Prize, to carry the small Bark with us, and to turn one of the_ Guiaquil _Prisoners ashore here, in order to save Provisions.

_ Tho.

Dover, _Pres.

_ William Stratton, Woodes Rogers, Tho.

Glendall, Stephen Courtney, John Connely, William Dampier, John Bridge, Edw.

Cooke, John Ballett, Robert Frye, Lan.

Appleby.

Cha.

Pope, Then we found it necessary to agree as follows.

August 29. 1709. _In consideration of the great Risque that Capt. _ Edward Cooke _and Capt. _ Robert Frye _ran in attacking the_ Marquiss, _when in the Hands of the_ Spaniards, _we do in behalf of the Owners agree to give Capt. _ Cooke _the Black Boy_ Dublin, _and Capt. _ Frye _the Black Boy_ Emanuel _of_ Martineco, _as a free Gift.

_ Tho.

Dover, _Pres.

_ Charles Pope, Woodes Rogers, John Connely, Stephen Courtney, John Bridge, William Dampier, John Ballet, William Stratton, Lan.

Appleby.

[Sidenote: In Tecames Road.

] _August 30. _ Yesterday _Peter Harry_ a _Frenchman_, and _Lazarus Luke_ a _Portuguese_, both good Sailors, ran from our Yall ashore.

This _Peter Harry_ was he who shot a Centinel at _Guiaquil_ as beforemention’d. We did not punish him, because he was a Foreigner, and did not well understand _English_, but suppose he was afraid of a Prosecution in _England_.

Yesterday Evening at the abovemention’d Committees aboard our Ship, after a long dispute, some Measures were agreed on contrary to my Expectations.

If we had not grown irresolute since we left _Gorgona_, but continued our Design to put our old Ransomer ashore at _Manta_, and part with our Clog the _Marquiss_, which I so earnestly press’d the _9th_ instant, by this time in all human probability we should have made good our Bargain to the advantage of the Voyage, besides getting Provisions and Necessaries that we shall mightily want.

The Goods that we might have vended there for ready Money, I fear will rot before we get the like Opportunity, Time being now so far spent, we must proceed as we agreed for the _Gallapagos_ to get Turtle to lengthen our Provisions, and then for the Coast of _Mexico_ to look for the _Manila_ Ship bound for _Acapulca_.

The 2 Negroes given to Capt. _Cooke_ and Mr. _Frye_ in the Committee yesterday, is not an equivalent Gratuity for the Risques they voluntarily ran when they attack’d the _Havre de Grace_, now call’d the _Marquiss_.

Such Actions ought sometimes to be particularly rewarded among us, else we may lose great Opportunities of Advantage, for want of due Encouragement to personal Bravery, and in this Action where there was but a few concerned, ’twas a fit and cheap way of encouraging the rest, without Offence to any.

We put our young Padre ashore, and gave him, as he desir’d, the prettiest young Female Negro we had in the Prize, with some Bays, Linnen, and other things, for his good Services in helping to promote our Trade for Provisions here.

We sent also a _Male_ Negro and Piece of Bays to the _Tecames_ Padre, in acknowledgment of his Kindness.

The young Padre parted with us extremely pleas’d, and leering under his Hood upon his black Female Angel, we doubt he will crack a Commandment with her, and wipe off the Sin with the Church’s Indulgence.

The _Indians_ ashore promise to bring our Men to us, if they can find ’em, we having offer’d ’em a large Gratuity to do it.

_August 31. _ Yesterday in the Afternoon we put ashore our useless Negroes, I having concluded with Sen. _Navarre_, and taken the best Methods we could to be paid at _Jamaica_ for them, he had also 4 Bales of Bays, and one Piece of Camlet, and became obliged to our Owners for 3500 Pieces of Eight, to be remitted by way of _Portobello_, with the _English_ trading Sloops to _Jamaica_; which if he do, ’tis much better than to turn the Negroes ashore as Prisoners of War, as otherwise we must have done to save Provisions.

Capt. _Courtney_ took one Obligation, and I the other, he having sign’d a Duplicate to us.

We had the best Opinion of this Man’s Honesty and Ability, which made us trust him solely.

In the Evening we clear’d our Prisoners, and put them all aboard the Prize, which we left in the Road with only one ordinary Anchor and Hawser, and no Rigging, except what belong’d to the Fore-sail and Fore-yard, which we left them to run the Vessel at High Water into the River.

We turn’d ashore here our least responsible Hostage for _Guiaquil_, resolving to keep but two, which must be carried home.

According to the last Conclusion in a Committee of the _29th_ instant, we came to sail at 6 this Morning.

Capt. _Cooke_ lost 2 _Spanish_ Negroes, which he supposed swam ashore from his Ship in the Night.

A

fresh Gale at S. S.

W.

At Noon Cape _St.

Francisco_ bore S. by W. 1/2 W.

distant about 6 Leagues.

[Sidenote: _Description of Tecames.

_] The Land to the Northward, which is the Limits of the Bay of _Tecames_, is a long bluff high Point, and looks white down to the Water.

The next Land to the Southward of _Tecames_ is also white Cliffs, but not so high.

I saw no Land on any part of the Shore, like those white Cliffs.

Between them, which is about 3 Leagues, the Land is lower, full of Wood, and trimming inward makes a small Bay, and the Village of _Tecames_ lies in the Bottom, consisting of 7 Houses and a Church, all low built of split Bamboes, cover’d with Palmetto Leaves, and standing on Posts, with Hog-sties under them.

These Houses have notch’d Pieces of Timber instead of Stairs to get up to ’em.

The Village lies close by the Water-side, and may be seen when the Bay is open above 4 Leagues.

’Tis suppos’d they had sent off their best Furniture on notice of our Approach, for there was nothing of Worth in their Houses nor Church.

The Women had only a Piece of Bays tied about their Middle.

The Men are dextrous at hunting and fishing.

There is a large Village about 4 Leagues off, where the Padre resides, and several _Indians_ live between these Villages.

The next River, 3 Leagues to the Northward, is very large, and call’d _Rio de las Esmeraldas_, but shoal’d; the Country about is thinly inhabited by _Indians_, Mullattoes and Samboes.

By the Village of _Tecames_ there’s a River into which a Boat may enter at half Tide; it flows here above 3 Fathom Water, the Flood runs to the Northward, and the Ebb to the Southward; there is an infinite Number of Plantains for 3 Days Journey into the Country, the nearest are about a League from the Houses, and were brought to our Boats down this River in their Canoes.

Here runs a great Surf on the Shore, so that were it not in these Parts of the World, it would be but an ordinary Road.

Ships generally come in from the Southward, or at least directly in with the Southermost white Land, and then bear away, because (as we were inform’d) there is an ugly Shole runs off the Northernmost white Land, about 2 Leagues into the Sea, being the Place where we had but 8 Fathom Water on the _23d_ instant, as I noted before.

We now came in from abreast off Cape _St.

Francisco_, Lat.

1°.

00´´.

N.

and this lies in about E. N.

E.

near 6 Leagues from Cape _St.

Francisco_.

We came no nearer than half a League of the Shore, because there is a small Shole off of a Point about half way between _Tecames_; and the Cape, which is an indifferent high Promontory, and as we made it, falls down like Stairs to the Water.

We had good clean Ground where we rode near half a League from the Shore in 7 Fathom Water, but a League into the Bottom of the Bay, where the Houses lie, there’s not above 3 Fathom a good Musket-shot from the Shore.

There is another River enters in by a single House between us and _Tecames_ Village, where we fetch’d our Water about 2 Leagues up this River; and it’s very narrow, and shoal’d all from the Entrance; we went in on half Flood.

Here’s Sea and Land Breezes, as well as on all this Coast near the Main Land; the Sea Breeze at W. and W. S.

W.

the Land Breeze at S. and S. by E. The Sea Breeze comes generally in the Afternoon, and holds till Midnight, when comes the Land Breeze, which dies away calm towards the Middle of the Day.

There’s a Rock under Water at quarter Flood, and a Shoal above a Cable’s Length off Shore, from the first Point as you go in for the narrow River where we water’d. A Ship ought not to come to an Anchor near the Shore, if High Water, in less than 6 Fathom, because at certain times, and out of course, as the _Indians_ told us, the Tide ebbs exceeding low.

It’s dry Weather here, tho’ showry to the Northward, being the Limits of the Rains at this time of the Year.

From _June_ to _December_ ’tis always dry, and from the Beginning of _January_ to the last of _May_ there are Showers now and then.

The _Indians_ about this Place are sometimes barbarous to the _Spaniards_, as our Prisoners tell us.

Our People saw here about 50 armed with Bows and Arrows, and some good Fire-Arms; they are worse to engage than double the Number of _Spaniards_, so that it would have been folly in us to land Men here, where there is so little to be got; and the _Indians_ with poison’d Arrows and Fire-Arms would line the Bushes down to the Water-side, and no doubt we should have lost many of our Men, had we landed by force; so that we are all extremely obliged to Mr. _White_ our Linguist, for negotiating a Trade in so peaceable a manner with these poor mischievous Wretches, which must in Justice be ascrib’d to his good Management, he accomplishing it voluntarily with the Danger of his Life.

’Twas off this Cape that Sir _Francis Drake_ in 1578. took the rich Plate Prize; and Sir _Richard Hawkins_ was taken by the _Spaniards_ in this Bay off of _Tecames_ in 1594. both in Queen Elizabeth’s Time.

_Sept.

1. _ At 6 this Morning Cape _St.

Francisco_ bore S. E.

distant 10 Leagues, from whence we take our Departure.

Had fair Weather, Wind at S. W.

by S. We saw many Water-snakes, one of ’em crawl’d up the Side of Capt. _Cooke’s_ Ship, but was beat off by his Men.

The _Spaniards_ say their Bite is incurable.

_Sept.

6. _ This day I had Capt. _Courtney_, Capt. _Cooke_, and Capt. _Dampier_ aboard, who dined with us.

Capt. _Cooke_ complain’d of his Ship being crank, and that we need not have tack’d so near the Shore, since we might easily fetch the _Gallapagos_ without Tacking.

All agree to this except our Pilot, who is very positive of seeing other Islands about 100 or 110 Leagues from the Main under the Equinox.

He tells us he was at them formerly when he was a Buccaneer, and has describ’d ’em in one of the Volumes he calls his Voyages, and says that those Islands we were at lay to the Westward of them; but he must be mistaken, or we had seen them in the last Runs to and from these Islands.

_Sept.

8. _ We are run over and beyond where our Pilot affirm’d the Islands were, and no sight of them; so we all agree that the Islands he was at when a buccaneering can be no other but those we were at, and are going to now; the nearest part of them lies 165 Leagues to the Westward of the Main Land.

_Sept.

10. _ The _8th_ we made one of the _Gallapagos_ Islands, and in the Morning hoisted out our Pinnace; Capt. Dover and Mr. _Glendall_ went in her for the Shore.

The _Dutchess_’s Pinnace return’d very soon laden with Turtle.

[Sidenote: _Arrival among the Gallapagos Islands.

_] _ Sept.

11. _ Yesterday we came to an Anchor in about 30 Fathom Water, about 2 Miles off Shore, being rocky at bottom.

In letting go the Anchor the Buoy Rope was immediately cut off, and our Ship drove; so that we thought our Cable was also cut, but after driving about half a Mile the Ship rode very well.

In the Evening our Boats that left us after we came to an Anchor, return’d laden with excellent good Turtle: We sent our Yawl and some Men ashore to turn those Creatures in the Night, but to no purpose, because we afterwards found they only came ashore in the Day.

I

sent away our Pinnace, and Lieut.

_Frye_ to sound out a better anchoring Place, while we hove up the Anchor, and came to sail.

Our Boat return’d, and by 10 a Clock we had our Ship again to an Anchor within less than a Mile off the Shore, right against a white sandy Bay.

The outermost great Rock being near the Middle of the Island, bore N. by E. distant 6 Miles;

the little Rock appearing like a Sail bore W. by S. about 4 Miles.

Here we rode very smooth in good sandy Ground; the Wind amongst these Islands generally blows from the S. E.

to the S. by W. I went ashore in the Pinnace, and carried Men to walk round the Sandy Bay to get Turtle.

The Island is high like the rest, but some low Land on this side down to the Sea; it’s very rocky, dry and barren, with out Water, like those we have already seen.

_Sept.

12. _ This Morning I sent to the _Dutchess_, who was at an Anchor a good distance from us, to know how they were stock’d with Turtle.

At 10 the Boat return’d with an Account they had about 150 Land and Sea Turtle, but not generally so large as ours: We had no Land Turtle as yet, but about 150 Sea Turtle; the _Marquiss_ had the worst Luck.

_Sept.

13. _ The _Dutchess_’s People having inform’d us where they got their Land Turtle, I sent our Pinnace, which at Night return’d with 37, and some Salt they found in a Pond; and the Yawl brought 20 Sea Turtle, so that we are very full of them.

Some of the largest of the Land Turtle are about 100 Pound Weight, and those of the Sea upwards of 400: The Land Turtle lay Eggs on our Deck; our Men brought some from the Shore about the bigness of a Goose’s Egg, white, with a large thick Shell exactly round.

These Creatures are the ugliest in Nature, the Shell not unlike the Top of an old Hackney Coach, as black as Jet, and so is the outside Skin, but shrivel’d and very rough; the Legs and Neck are long, and about the bigness of a Man’s Wrist, and they have Club Feet as big as one’s Fist, shaped much like those of an Elephant, with 5 thick Nails on the Fore Feet, and but 4 behind; the Head little, and Visage small, like a Snake, and look very old and black; when at first surpriz’d, they shrink their Neck, Head and Legs under their Shell.

Two of our Men, with Lieut.

_Stratton_, and the Trumpeter of the _Dutchess_, affirm, they saw vast large ones of this sort about 4 Foot high; they mounted 2 Men on the Back of one of them, who with its usual slow Pace carried them, and never minded the Weight: They suppos’d this could not weigh less than 700 Pound.

I don’t affect giving Relations of strange Creatures so frequently done by others already in print; but where an uncommon Creature falls in my way, I shall not omit it.

The _Spaniards_ tell us they know of none elsewhere in these Seas.

This Morning we began heeling our Ship, and found that abundance of Worms had entered the Sheathing; we scrub’d, clean’d, and tallow’d as low as we could.

_Sept.

14. _ Yesterday Afternoon we sent a Boat ashore for Wood, they brought off the Rudder and Boltsprit of a small Bark; we fancy’d it might be Mr. _Hattley_’s that we lost amongst these Islands when here before, but on view perceiv’d it to be much older.

We also found 2 Jars, and a Place where Fire had been made on the Shore, but nothing to give us farther Hopes of poor Mr. _Hattley_.

Our Pinnace came aboard and brought about 18 Bushells of Salt, and 18 Land Turtle more; the Men commend them for excellent Food, especially the Land Turtle, which makes very good Broth, but the Flesh never boils tender: for my own part, I could eat neither sort yet.

Having got as much Turtle on board, as we could eat while good, we agreed to make the best of our Way to the Coast of _Mexico_, and this Morning our Consort and the _Marquiss_ were under Sail by 8 a Clock, but we lying farther in were becalm’d, and could not follow them.

We caught a good quantity of Fish here, which we split and salted for our future Spending.

About 12 a Clock, being calm, we weighed our Anchor, and with the Help of our Boats and Ships Oars got off the Shore.

_Sept.

15. _ We had a fine Breeze, came up to the rest, and agreed to lye by with our Heads to the Eastward, till Midnight, being in sight of the Island and Rock where we lost poor _Hattley_, when last here.

In the Morning we stood to the Westward amongst the Islands.

[Sidenote: _Departure from the Gallapagos Islands.

_] _Sept.

16. _ At 4 a Clock in the Afternoon we sent our Yawl for Capt. _Cooke_ and Capt. _Courtney_, with whom we agreed to bear away, seeing so many Islands and Rocks to the Westward, we did not care to incumber our selves amongst them in the Night.

By 6 we found the Remedy worse than the Disease, and at Mast head could see all low Rocks almost joining from Island to Island, that we seem’d Land-lock’d for three Parts of the Compass, and no Way open but to the S. E.

from whence we came, so we resolv’d to return that Way, and made short Trips all Night, keeping continual Sounding for fear of Shoals, and had from 40 to 60 Fathom Water.

In the Morning we had got far enough to Windward to return.

We could have no Observation by the Sun, being in our Zenith, tho’ we find the Weather here much colder than in any Latitude within 10 Degrees of each side the Equinox.

_Sept.

17. _ Yesterday Afternoon I went a-board the _Marquiss_, being brought too between the two Islands, in sight of the rendezvous Rock I have so often mention’d: Mean while the _Dutchess_ (not being so well provided with Turtle as we) sent her Boat a-shore on another Island, where they got her Lading of excellent Turtle, leaving a vast Number a-shore that they could not bring away.

We have as many a-board as we have Room for, being, as we suppose, enough to last us to the _Tres Marias_, if they live.

At 7 we all join’d, and agreed to lie by, till 2 in the Morning, when we again jogg’d on with an easy Sail till Day-break.

We were a-breast of the Thorowfare, where we tried for Water the last time.

I order’d a Gun to be fir’d at a venture, to see if it were possible Mr. _Hattley_ could be there alive, and then seeing or hearing us, might make a Smoak a-shore, as a Signal, but we had no such good Luck; so that our Hopes of him are all vanish’d, and we finally conclude, that we can do no more for him than we have done already.

The 18th and 19th we saw several more Islands, one of ’em a large one, which we suppos’d reach’d near the Equinoctial, and abundance of small Islands betwixt us; the 19th at Noon, we had an indifferent good Observation.

Lat.

2°.

2´´.

N.

The _Gallapagos_ Islands need no further Description than I have at several Places given of them; only that I believe, as others before have observed, that the Turtle come a-shore in the sandy Bays of these Islands, all the Year round.

We saw in all (some that we searched and others that we viewed at a Distance, at both times) no less than 50, but none that had the least Appearance of fresh Water.

The _Spanish_ Reports agree that there is but one that has any; which lies about Lat.

1°.

30´´.

S.

Sen. _Morell_ tells me, that a _Spanish_ Man of War employed to cruize for Pyrates, was once at an Island that lies by it self in the Lat.

1°.

20 or 30´´.

S.

They call it _S.

Maria de l’Aquada_, a pleasant Island and good Road, full of Wood, and Plenty of Water and Turtle, of both sorts, with Fish, _&c. _ lying about 140 _Spanish_ Leagues West from the Island _Plata_, but I believe it’s at least 30 Leagues more, and that it’s no other but the same Island, where Capt. _Davis_ the _English_ Buccaneer recruited, and all the Light he has left to find it again is, that it lies to the Westward of those Islands he was at with the other Buccaneers, which as I have before examin’d, can be no other than these Islands we have been twice at.

We had no occasion to look for this Island the second Trip, tho’ I believe it’s easy to find it without farther Directions.

Here’s most sorts of Sea Birds amongst these Islands and some Land Birds, particularly Hawks of several sorts, and Turtle Doves, both so very tame that we often hit them down with Sticks.

I saw no sort of Beasts; but there are Guanas in abundance, and Land Turtle almost on every Island: ’Tis strange how the latter got here, because they can’t come of themselves, and none of that sort are to be found on the Main.

Seals haunt some of these Islands, but not so numerous, nor their Fur so good as at _Juan Fernando’s_.

A very large one made at me 3 several times, and had I not happen’d to have a Pike-staff pointed with Iron in my Hand, I might have been kill’d by him; (one of our Men having narrowly escap’d the Day before.

) I was on the level Sand when he came open-mouth’d at me out of the Water, as quick and fierce as the most angry Dog let loose.

I struck the Point into his Breast, and wounded him all the three times he made at me, which forc’d him at last to retire with an ugly Noise, snarling and shewing his long Teeth at me out of the Water: This amphibious Beast was as big as a large Bear.