Cruising Voyage Around the World — Account of River of La Plata

* * * * * The River of _La Plata_ being the South Boundary of _Brazile_, within the Limits of the _South-Sea_ Company, and lying conveniently for opening a great Trade from the North-Sea with _Peru_, _Chili_, and other vast Countries; I shall give a Description of it here, from the best Authors.

The first _European_ who discover’d it, seems to have been _Juan Dias de Solis_, who sailing from _Spain_ in 1512. some say 1515. run along the Coast of _Brazile_ till he came to this River, says _Ovalle_.

With him agree the Manuscripts taken on some _Spanish_ Priests in this River by Capt. _Withrington_, publish’d in _Harris’s_ Collections[108]; where we are told, _De Solis_ obtain’d the Government of this River, but was murder’d by the Natives with most of his Men in 1515. The next who came hither was _Sebastian Cabot_ in 1526. but his Men being mutinous, he had not the desir’d Success, tho he sail’d 150, some say 200 Leagues up this River; and purchasing many Pieces of Gold and Silver Plate from the Natives, who call’d this River _Parama_, he call’d it the River of Plate, because he thought it to be the Product of the Country, which was afterwards found to be a Mistake.

Yet upon his Report, in 1530. when he return’d, the Emperor _Charles_ V. sent Don _Peter Mendoza_, one of his chief Grandees, with 2200 Men besides Mariners, to plant a Colony here in [Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] 1535. and they had so great hopes of finding Mines of Gold and Silver, that above thirty Heirs of noble Families went on the Expedition; and sailing 50 Leagues up the River, where the Air was good, he founded a Town, which from thence was call’d _Buenos-Ayres_.

They built a Fort, and enlarg’d the Town; but as they were carrying on their Work, the Natives attack’d them, and overpowering them with Numbers, kill’d 250, among whom were several of the chief Men.

This oblig’d the _Spaniards_ to keep within their Fort, where they suffer’d much by Famine.

_Mendoza_ return’d towards _Spain_, but died miserably, with many of his Companions, for want of Provisions by the way.

His Deputy-Governour _Oyola_ sail’d up into _Paraguay_, in quest of a Country said to abound with Gold and Silver; but was treacherously slain by the Natives, with all his Followers.

_Irala_ who was his Deputy, and left at _Buenos-Ayres_, contracted a Friendship with some of the Natives call’d _Guaranians_.

In 1538. he built _Assumption_ in their Country, which is now the Metropolis of _Paraguay_, and left _Buenos-Ayres_ for a time.

_Assumption_ lies on the Banks of the River _Paraguay_, in S. Lat.

25. 240 Leagues from the Sea, and 40 from the Mouth of the River _Paraguay_, where it falls into _La Plata_, These Rivers after they join continue their natural Colour for several miles, _La Plata_ being clear, and _Paraguay_ muddy.

The latter is by much the most considerable River, and the adjacent Country abounds with Mines of Gold and Silver, and is navigable above 200 Leagues.

The River _Uruquay_ falls into _Paraguay_ on the right side, and runs a Course of 300 Leagues, according to _Sepp_ the Jesuit, who in his Voyage says ’tis as big as the _Danube_ at _Vienna_.

In short, as to this River _La Plata_, Authors are not agreed.

Some of the Jesuits who are Missionaries in those Countries think it to be the same with that call’d _Paraguay_ higher up in the Country, and that it has a Communication with the North-East Coast of _Brazile_ by the River _St.

Meary_, which rises out of the same Lake, and runs N E. as _Paraguay_ or _Plata_ runs S.

and afterwards to the S E. when it falls into the Sea.

Be that how it will, here are many Rivers which fall into the same Channel on both sides.

But that which is commonly call’d _La Plata_, begins near the Town of that Name about S. Lat.

19. and after running N. a little way, takes its Course S E. till it join the River _Paraguay_.

So that I chuse rather to trust to the Account given us by Mr. _White_ our Linguist, who having dwelt long in that Country, told me this River derives its Name from the Town of _La Plata_, a sort of Metropolis to which there lies an Appeal from other Jurisdictions.

He adds, that ’tis a pretty Town, has fourteen Churches with a Cathedral, and four Nunneries, and lies North-west from _Buenos-Ayres_ about 500 Leagues, which requires commonly two months and a half’s Travel.

All are agreed that _La Plata_ is very large at the Mouth, where some account it 50, and others 30 Leagues broad.

The Mouth of it is dangerous because of Sands, and therefore requires Pilots.

_Knivet_,[109] in his Description of the _West-Indies_, says, the best way to avoid those Sands is to keep near the North Shore till you come to a high Mountain white at top; and then to sail 4 Ls.

South, to another small Hill on the North side, near which you must sail.

This brings you into a fair Bay, where you must still keep along shore: and after passing the West Point of this Bay, you come to the River _Maroer_, and then there are no more Shoals between that and _Buenos-Ayres_.

_La Plata_ runs into the Sea about S. Lat.

35. and sometimes overflows the Country for several miles, when the Natives put their Goods into Canoes, and float about till the Inundation assuages, and then they return to their Habitations.

_Ovalle_ gives the following Account of this River, _viz.

_ That it runs with such a mighty Stream into the Sea, as makes it fresh for a great way: That the Water of this River is very sweet, clears the Voice and Lungs, and is good against all Rheums and Defluxions: That the People who dwell about it have excellent Voices, and are all inclin’d to Musick: That it petrifies the Branches of Trees, and other things which fall into it; and that Vessels are naturally form’d of its Sand, which are of various Figures, look as if they were polish’d by Art, and keep Water very cool.

It breeds great store of excellent Fish of divers sorts, and most beautiful Birds of all kinds are seen on its Banks.

_Sepp_ informs us, that this River and _Uraguay_ abound so with Fish, that the Natives catch great numbers of them without any other Instrument than their Hands: one of the choicest, call’d the Kings-Fish, is small without Bones, and taken only in Winter.

Our Author, says he never saw any _European_ Fish in this latter, except one that the _Spaniards_ call _Bocado_; and that the Fish are larger here than ours, of a dark or yellow colour, and well tasted; which he ascribes to the nature of [Illustration: THE ISLANDS OF JUAN FERNANDEZ, WHERE ALEXANDER SELKIRK WAS FOUND]

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] the Water, that tho drunk in great quantities even after raw Fruit, helps Digestion, and never does any hurt.

The Plains about this River are so large and even, without any Obstruction to the Sight, that the Sun seems to rise and set in them.

Their way of travelling in those Plains is by high Carts cover’d with Hoops and Cows-Hides like our Waggons, with Conveniency for Travellers to sleep in the bottom; which is so much the better, because they travel most by night to avoid the Heat.

They are drawn by Oxen, which are frequently so pinch’d by Drought, that when they come towards any Water, which they smell at a great distance, they run furiously to it, and drink up the very Mud which they raise with their Feet.

This obliges Travellers to furnish themselves with Water and other Provisions for their Journy; there being no Water to be had, except by Rain: so that Travellers are frequently as much distress’d for want of Water as the Oxen, and can scarce get any that’s clear at the Watering-places, tho they send before-hand, because the Oxen run with so much haste to it that they make it all in a puddle: _Ovalle_ says, that in this case Travellers are forc’d to stop their Noses and shut their Eyes when they drink it.

The Journy thro these Plains is at least 14 or 20 days, without any place of shelter, or any Firing to dress their Victuals but the dry’d Dung of Cattle.

Yet there are several Lakes and Ponds where Inns might be fix’d, but ’tis neglected because there’s no settled Trade that way.

It remains to give some account of the Towns upon the River _Plata_ and on the Road to _Potosi_.

1. _Buenos-Ayres_ lies upon the River 50 Leagues from the Sea, about Lat.

36. Our Linguist inform’d me that ’tis the Residence of a _Spanish_ Governour, is defended by a Stone Fort mounted with 40 Guns, and is generally garison’d by 4 or 500 Men.

The Harbour is pretty good, but troublesom in a N W. and W. Wind.

The River is 7 Ls.

broad there, and navigable by Ships 60 Ls.

above the Town, but no further, because of a great Cataract.

The Town has one Cathedral, and five other Churches: The _Portuguese_ had a Settlement over against this Town, but were dislodg’d by the _Spaniards_ at the beginning of this War; since which time the _French_ drive a _Guinea_ Trade hither for Negroes, who are sent over Land to _Peru_ and _Chili_, and yield them vast Profit.

The Trade from hence to _Spain_ is in Hides and Tallow, Silver from _Peru_, and Gold and Silver from _Chili_.

All _European_ Goods yield a good Price here.

They have plenty of Fruit-Trees about the Town of all kinds, both of the hot and cold Climates; and have store of Wheat and other _European_ Grain, besides _Indian_ Corn.

Thousands of Cattel of all sorts run wild in the Neighbourhood, and they furnish _Peru_ with 50000 Mules _per ann.

_ In short, this place lies very convenient for Commerce in Silver and Gold, and the other Commodities of _Peru_ and _Chili_, which the _French_ have now begun to engross.

They sent three Ships to those parts and the _South-Sea_, under M.

_de Beauchesne Gouin_[110] of _St.

Malo_ in 1698, of whose Progress I shall give a further account from a Copy of his Journal, as I go on with my Description of the Coasts.

Their Winter here is in _May_, _June_, and _July_, when ’tis cold by night, but warm enough by day, the Frost never being violent, nor the Snow considerable in those parts.

Father _Sepp_,[111] who was here in 1691. tells us in his Voyage from _Spain_ to _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_, that _Buenos-Ayres_ has only two Streets built crosswise; that there are four Convents, one of which belongs to the Jesuits; that their Houses and Churches are built of Clay, and not above one Story high; that the Jesuits have taught them of late to burn Lime, and make Tiles and Bricks, with which they now begin to build.

The Castle is likewise of Clay, encompass’d with an earthen Wall and a deep Trench, and defended by 900 _Spaniards_; tho in case of necessity above 30000 _Indian_ Horse might be arm’d out of the several Cantons, where they have been train’d by the Jesuits: But this boasting Account I can’t believe.

They have in the Neighbourhood whole Woods of Peach, Almond, and Fig-Trees, which they propagate by putting the Kernels in the Ground: they grow so fast as to produce Fruit the first Year, and their Timber is us’d for Fewel.

The adjacent Pastures are so fat and large, that many thousands of Beeves feed together; so that any one when he pleases goes into the Field, throws a Rope about their Horns, brings ’em home and kills ’em.

They are very large, generally white, and being so numerous, are valu’d only for their Hides, Tallow, and Tongues; the rest being expos’d to the Birds and Beasts of Prey, which are very numerous, and frequently destroy the Calves.

The Natives feed most on Beef half-raw without Bread or Salt, and in such quantities that they throw [Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] themselves naked into cold Water, that they may retain the natural Heat within their Entrails to help Digestion; and sometimes they lie down with their Stomachs in hot Sand: but their Gluttony in devouring so much raw Flesh fills them so with Worms, that they seldom live till 50 Years old.

There are such numbers of Partridges here, and so tame, that they knock them down with sticks as they walk in the fields.

The Missionaries, who are absolute Masters of the Natives in the neighbouring Cantons of _Paraguay_, &c. suffer none of ’em to come nearer _Buenos-Ayres_ than two or three Leagues, on pretence that they would be corrupted by the ill Example of the _Spaniards_; and under that same pretence they won’t suffer the _Spaniards_ to settle in their Missions, which extend above 200 Leagues up the River; nor do they allow Merchants who trade thither to stay above a few days; the true cause of which is, they are not willing that the Laity should be privy to the Wealth they heap up there, in a Country which abounds with Gold, nor be Witnesses to their splendid, or rather luxurious way of living.

Sometimes Complaints of this Procedure of the Jesuits have been made to the _Spanish_ Governours, but they find a way to bribe them to silence.

This I was inform’d of by those who have been among them, and am confirm’d in it by Father _Sepp_: He does not dissemble that the Missionaries have a Despotical Power over the Natives, tho he gives it another Turn, and pretends that ’tis necessary in order to convert and force them to work.

He says the Jesuits are Captains, teach them the Use of Arms, and how to draw up into Squadrons and Battallions; which he boasts they can do as well as the _Europeans_.

The Jesuits obtain’d this Power, on the specious Pretence of reducing those _Indians_ to the Obedience of the _Spaniards_, which they would not submit to till within these few Years.

This Management is so much the more easily carry’d on, because the Ecclesiastical Government there is lodg’d in the hands of one Bishop only and three Canons; and the Missionaries being compos’d of all Nations, few of them have any natural Affection to the _Spanish Government_.

This is the more to be observ’d, because the Jesuits being an intriguing Society, and generally in the _French_ Interest, it would seem to be the Concern of the Allies to recover the Trade of those Countries from the House of _Bourbon_ with all possible speed, left by making themselves Masters of the vast Treasures of _Peru_ and _Chili_, they be enabled at last to compleat their Design of an Universal Monarchy.

Father _Sepp_ says, that Silver in 1691. was cheaper here than Iron; that for a Twopenny Knife one may have a Crown, for a Hat of two Shillings 10 or 12 Crowns, and for a Gun of ten or twelve Shillings 30 Crowns; that Provisions are so plenty here, that a fat Cow may be bought for the Value of 10 _d.

_ or 12 _d.

_ a good Ox for a few Needles, a stout Horse for about 2 _s.

_ that he has seen two given for a Knife not worth 6 _d.

_ and that he and his Company had 20 Horses for a few Trifles that did not cost them a Crown; being only a few Needles, Fish-Hooks, sorry Knives, Tobacco, and a little Bread.

He mentions a Cataract in the River _Uruquay_, which he says Providence has plac’d here for the advantage of the poor _Indians_ against the Avarice of the _Spaniards_; who not being able to go further with their Vessels, have been hitherto confin’d to _Buenos-Ayres_, and could not settle in those Cantons, tho very inviting, because of the vast Profit they might draw from them.

This he reckons a great Happiness to the Natives, who being a simple People, would not only be soon infected with the Vices of the _Spaniards_, but enslav’d by ’em: for, says he, they make no difference betwixt Pagan and Christian Natives, but treat them promiscuously like Dogs.

He adds, that this Province of _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_ exceeds in bigness _Germany_, _France_, _Italy_, and the _Netherlands_ put together;

(wherein I doubt he exceeds:) That they have no Cities, and are govern’d by 80 Colleges of Jesuits, in which there are no more than 160 Persons;

and that these Colleges are from 100 to 600 Miles distant from one another.

There’s one Plain of 200 Leagues long betwixt _Buenos-Ayres_ and _Corduba_ in _Tucuman_, without so much as a Tree or Cottage, and yet it contains the best Pastures in the World, fill’d with Cattel of all sorts which have no Owners.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] He describes the Natives thus: The Men are not quite so tall as _Europeans_, but have thick Legs and large Joints.

Their Faces are round, flattish, and of an Olive Colour; and their Arms are Bows and Arrows.

Some of the strongest have many Scars on their Bodies, occasion’d by Wounds which they gave themselves when young, that these Scars may be remaining Proofs of their Courage.

Their Hair is black, long, and as strong as that of a Horse.

The Women look more like Devils than rational Creatures, with their Hair loose over their Foreheads, and the rest twisted in Locks behind, which hang as low as their Hips.

Their Faces are wrinkled, their Arms, Shoulders and Breasts naked; and their Ornaments are Fish-Bones made like Scales of Mother-of-Pearl about their Necks, Arms and Hands.

The Wives of their Caciques or petty Princes wear a sort of Triple Crowns of Straw.

The Caciques wear Doe-Skins hanging over their shoulders; the rest only a piece of a Skin wrap’d about their middle, and hanging down before to their knees.

The Boys and Girls are quite naked.

They have holes in their Ears and Chins, in which they put Fish-Bones, or a colour’d Feather tied by a thred, and Feathers of several colours fasten’d to a string round their Necks.

They wrap their Infants as soon as born in a Tyger’s Skin, give them the Breast for a little while, and then half-raw Meat to suck.

He says, the Men at the death of their nearest Relations cut off a Finger of their own left Hand; and if it be a handsom Daughter, they make a Feast and drink out of her Skull.

They live in Straw Hutts without Roofs, and their Utensils are a few Sticks for Spits, and Pumpkins hollow’d out, in which they eat their Meats.

Their Beds are the Hides of Oxen or Tygers, spread on the ground; but the Caciques, and those of Note, lie in a Net fasten’d to two Poles for Hammocks, at some distance from the ground, being a Security against wild Beasts and Serpents.

Our Author says that he sent well-boil’d Meat to several of them when sick, which they receiv’d thankfully; but afterwards gave it to their Dogs, because they lik’d their own Cookery better.

It is now time to see how the Missionaries live among those Flocks over whom they assume the Pastoral Care.

Father _Sepp_ tells us, that he and other new Missionaries were welcom’d by some of them with 20 Musicians in a Train, abundance of Boats equip’d like Galleys lin’d with Firelocks, and having Drums, Trumpets, and Hautboys on board.

The Missionaries brought ’em Sweatmeats, and all sort of Fruit; and the _Indians_ diverted them by wrestling in the Water, and Salvoes of their Fire-Arms, _&c. _ They conducted them thro a green Triumphal Arch to the Church, where the Women were so earnest at their Devotion, that not one of them cast an eye upon our Father and his Companions: so that here were a Militant and a Triumphant Church both together.

When the Devotion was over, the chief of the _Indians_ welcom’d the Father and the rest of the Missionaries, by a short but very pathetick Speech; and one of the _Indian_ Women did the like with wonderful Elegancy, says the Jesuit, who it seems is not against Women speaking in the Church.

That and the next day they spent in Mirth and Jollity, and in the Evening were diverted by four Dances; 1. By Boys, who danc’d with Pikes and Lances.

2. By a couple of Fencing-Masters.

3. By six Seamen.

4. By six Boys on horseback, who afterwards gave them a kind of Tournament, the place being illuminated by Ox-Horns fill’d with Suet, for they have no Oil nor Wax.

On _Whitsunday_, which happen’d soon after, the Missionaries went to Church, and return’d Thanks for so many Converts; as certainly they had reason, since they are such merry ones.

These Cantons, he says, are 26, and have but one or two Missionaries apiece, tho they contain from 3000 to 6000 People each, and sometimes more; so that they must either have too much work, or perform it very slightly, especially if they be so ignorant as our Father says, that if they be neglected one day, they scarce know how to make the Sign of the Cross the next: And besides all the Pastoral Work, the Missionaries must act the part of Clerks, and clean the Church-Ornaments and Plate; for these poor Wretches are uncapable of doing it.

To be short, says he, the Missionary must be Cook, Nurse, Doctor, Architect, Gardiner, Weaver, Smith, Painter, Baker, Potter, Tile-maker, and every thing else that is necessary in a Commonwealth.

This he supposes will appear incredible (and he’s certainly in the right) but he says ’tis the naked Truth; the Natives being so stupid, that unless he plainly shew his _Indian_ Cook how much Salt he must put in each Pot, he would put all into one, tho ever so much; and he must see them wash the Vessels, unless he would be poison’d: yet this Father, for all his other hard work, must look after his Garden, Orchard, and Vineyard, where he has all sorts of Flowers, Herbs, Roots and Fruits, and so many Vines as produce 500 large Casks of Wine in a Year, if not prevented by multitudes of Pismires, Wasps, Birds, or by the North Winds, which sometimes make Wine so dear, that a Cask yields 20 or 30 Crowns; and after all, ’tis not to be preserv’d from turning sour without a great mixture of Lime.

The chief Distemper of the Natives is the Worms before-mention’d, the bloody Flux [dysentery] and spotted Fever, which frequently carry off great numbers.

The Medicines which the Missionaries give against Worms, is a Vomit of Tabacco-Leaves; and after that, sour Lemon-Juice with those of Mint and Rue put into Milk.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] These Cantons or Towns, he says, are generally upon an Ascent near the Rivers _Uruguay_ and _Paraguay_, and contain young and old from 6000 to 8000 Souls.

Each Canton has a Church and a square Market-place near it, the rest being divided into Streets of Clay-Hutts cover’d with Straw, only of late they begin to use Tiles.

They have no Windows, Chimneys, or different Apartments; and over the Fire-place they hang their Beds at night.

Their Doors are Ox-Hides; and since all lie together in one Room, with their Dogs, Cats, _&c. _ the Missionaries are entertain’d with very ungrateful Scents, besides Smoke, when they go to visit them.

He says, in the main they are very patient under Distempers, and the Death of Relations; that they seek after no Riches but a present Maintenance;

that their young Women are marriageable at 14, and the Men at 16, when the Missionaries take care to match them, otherwise they will pair themselves.

There are no Disputes here about Dowries, Jointures, or Marriage-Settlements; the Agreement consists only in two Articles, _viz.

_ The Woman promises to fetch what Water the Husband wants from the River, and he engages to provide the Kitchin with Fewel.

The Missionaries furnish them with Hutts, the Wedding-Clothes and Dinner.

The Wedding-Suit is five yards of coarse woollen Stuff for each, the Dinner is a fat Cow, and the Bed some Ox-hides.

He presents them also with a little Salt and a few Loaves, and then they treat their Parents.

The Women court here, come to the Missionary, and tell him they have a mind to such a Man, if he will give his Consent; which if he do, the Match is made, and the Missionary is both Priest and Father.

How mean soever the Natives live, the Priests have enough of Splendor and Plenty.

Their Churches and Steeples are lofty, have four or five Bells apiece, most of ’em a couple of Organs, Altars, and Pulpits richly gilt, Images well painted, plenty of Silver Candlesticks, Chalices, and other Church-Plate; and the Ornaments of the Priests and Altars are as rich as in _Europe_.

They teach the Natives to sing and play on all Musical Instruments both for Devotion and War; so that according to the Jesuits they go now more merrily to Heaven than formerly they did to Hell, and the good Fathers divert themselves with Sets of Musicians on the Banks of the Rivers and in charming Islands.

Nor can we wonder that they live so merrily, since they fare so well; for besides all sorts of delicious Fruits and Preserves, they have plenty of Fowl, Fish, and Venison of all sorts, as well as ordinary Butchers Meat; only the Tygers, which are very numerous, frequently put in for a share with them, invade their Flocks and their Followers: but if you’ll believe our Father, they never attack the Clergy, they have such a Respect for their Cloth, and are so civil to _Europeans_, that they’l charge the _Indians_ in their Company, and let them go scot-free; and the Serpents, which likewise abound here, are charm’d by _Ave Mary’s_ into the like Good-Manners.

The Priests use Honey for their Sallets, for they have no Oil, so that they are very hard put to it.

They had Silver in such plenty, says the Father, that old Shoes and Hats were much more valuable.

And as if the Missionaries had not Work enough otherwise, Father _Sepp_ tells us, the Natives when they kill their Cows bring ’em to the good Jesuits to allow each their share; and to be sure the Hides fall to the Missionaries, for he says the three Ships which brought him and his Companions from _Spain_, carry’d back 300000 Ox-Hides, which they had for nothing, and each Hide he says would yield ’em six Crowns at home.

A good Horse-shoe he says is here worth six Horses, and the Bit of a Bridle worth three.

An Ell of Linen is worth four or five Crowns;

for they have no Hemp or Flax, but store of Cotton: and one Sheep, Lamb or Kid, is for the sake of the Wool worth three Oxen or Cows.

Tho the Natives, he says, are so dull that they can’t do the most frivolous thing without direction, yet they are so good at Imitation, that if you give them Models, they will make any thing very well.

Thus he says the _Indian_ Women after ripping a piece of Bone-Lace with a Needle, will make one by the same pattern very exactly; and so the Men do Trumpets, Hautboys, Organs, or Watches; and copy Pictures, Printing and Writing to admiration.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] But they are so lazy that they must be forc’d to their work by blows, at the direction of the Missionaries, who tho they convert ’em themselves, make them cudgel one another.

This they take very patiently, give no ill Language, but cry _Jesu Maria!

_ and thank the good Fathers into the bargain for taking such care of ’em; so that they have learnt Passive-Obedience to perfection.

But to make them amends, our Author says the Missionaries teach their young ones to dance as well as to sing in the Church, when they are habited in rich Apparel: so that they are extremely taken with the Ornaments of our Religion, says he, which raises in them a high Esteem and Affection; and indeed ’twould be a wonder if it should not.

The Missionaries do now take care to instruct both Sexes in all necessary Employments, Reading, Writing, _&c. _ They have also taught ’em to make Images, especially of our Lady of _Ottingen_; and very good reason, for if we believe _Sepp_, she has done abundance of Miracles there.

The Fathers wear Caps like a Bishop’s, and black Linen Cassocks when they go abroad; and instead of Canes use Crosses, which have a peculiar Virtue to knock Serpents o’ the head.

The Soil is so fruitful that it produces a hundred fold, tho sorrily manur’d. The Natives sow nothing but _Turky_ Wheat, and scarce enough of that, they are so lazy: and are likewise such bad Husbands, that they would eat all at once, did not the Missionary force ’em to lay it up in his Barn, where he distributes it to ’em as they want, and so he does their Flesh.

They have no Mills, but pround their Wheat in a Mortar, and make it into Cakes which they bake on Coals, or boil with their Meat.

The Fathers have white Bread for themselves, which the Natives value so much, that they will give two or three Horses for a Loaf; and of these the Missionaries have good store, for they have always 40 or 50 Acres sow’d with Wheat for themselves: Land, Corn, Cattel, and every thing is theirs; so that they call all the People their Sons and Daughters, and perhaps there’s just cause enough to give many of ’em that Title.

These Lords Proprietors assign every Family their number of Cows and Oxen to till their Ground, and to eat; tho one would think they might have enough for the taking, without asking any body’s leave: and yet our Father says he has been forc’d to chide his Parishioners for killing and eating their Oxen, and roasting them with their wooden Plows in the very Field while they were tilling the Ground; for which they pleaded in excuse that they and their Wives were hungry and weary: and yet there was no great reason for the latter, since their Plows, says our Author, don’t enter above three inches into the Ground.

They need no Hay for their Cattel, since they go up to the knees in Grass all the year.

This is the way of living in those Cantons, which the Missionaries call Reductions, because, if you’ll believe ’em, they have reduc’d them to Christianity by their Preaching, tho the _Spaniards_ could never do it by their Arms.

Our Linguist told me that the Road from _Buenos-Ayres_ to _Chili_ is only passable in the Summer Months, when Commodities are purchas’d at that Town, and transported by Land to _Chili_.

On that Road about 100 Leagues N. W.

from _Buenos-Ayres_ lies the City of _Cordoua_, which is the See of a Bishop, has ten Churches, and an University.

’Twas founded in 1573. says F. _Techo_, by a Native of _Cordoua_ in _Old Spain_, when there were 60000 Archers reckon’d in its Territory, about 8000 of whom continu’d in subjection, but the others revolted.

’Tis now the Metropolis of the Province, and the Jesuits have a Chappel in their College there, which for Riches and Beauty may vie with the best in _Europe_.

The Natives of this Country were very barbarous, made use of Sorcery to satisfy their Revenge, and of Philtres of their own Blood to gratify their Lust.

Both Sexes daub’d their Faces with strange Colours, and each Village was govern’d by a Sorcerer, who pretended to be their Physician.

To shew their Courage, they would draw Arrows thro the Skins of their Bellies, and they fought Duels with sharp Stones, standing foot to foot, and holding down their Heads to receive the Blows from one another by turns.

He that struck first was reckon’d the most fearful: It was accounted disgraceful to dress their Wounds, and the Conqueror was applauded by hideous Shouts from the Spectators.

’Twas a long time before the Missionaries could reform those barbarous Customs.

Another Town on this Road is _Mendosa_, where they make large quantities of Wine, Brandy, and Oil.

So much for that part of this vast Country which lies towards _Chili_ and _Brazile_: I shall next come to that part which lies towards _Peru_, and particularly the Road to _Potosi_ and the Mines.

_Santa-Fe_ is the next _Spanish_ Settlement of note to _Buenos-Ayres_, from which it lies 80 Leagues N W. at the mouth of a River which falls into _La Plata_.

The Country betwixt this Town and _Buenos-Ayres_ is fruitful, well inhabited by _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, and produces Wheat from forty to an hundred fold, and abounds with Cattel.

The Town is encompass’d with a River, and built of Brick.

Our Prisoners and Linguist told us that there are Mines of Gold and Silver in the Neighbourhood, but the _Spaniards_ don’t care to open them, because the Conveniency of sailing up the River might encourage Enemies to invade and take them from ’em.

This Town was built by the _Spaniards_ when they first settled, for the Defence of this River.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] _St.

Jago de l’Istero_ 200 Leagues N W. from _Santa-Fe_, is a pretty Town govern’d by a Corregidore, has three Churches, and lies on the River that runs down to _Santa-Fe_.

Hither the Plate is brought from _Potosi_ on Mules, because the Roads are bad; and from hence it is carry’d to _Buenos-Ayres_ by Waggons.

Next to this Town lies _St.

Miquel de Toloman_ 200 Leagues N W. Then _Salta_ 150 Leagues.

This Town contains six Churches.

Then _Ogui_ 50 Leagues further, which has five Churches.

_Potosi_ is next, lies N. of the Tropick of _Capricorn_ about S. Lat.

21. Long.

73. Our Linguist tells us the City is large, has ten Churches govern’d by an Arch-Priest.

The Town stands at the bottom of that call’d _the Silver Hill_, which is round like a Sugar-Loaf.

There are 1500 or 2000 _Indians_ constantly at work in the Mines here; they have two Reals a day, and are paid every Sunday.

The Mines are a hundred fathom deep, and the Silver is grown much scarcer of late.

Provisions are scarce at this Town, and they have no Firing but Charcoal, which is brought from 30 to 50 Ls.

distance.

They have great Frosts and Snow here in _May_, _June_, and _July_.

_Knivet_ in his Remarks says, in his time they were well supply’d here with all things from the _South-Sea_, and that the Natives in the adjoining Country traffick’d in Gold and precious Stones;

and hundreds of ’em ply’d upon the Road to carry Passengers from Town to Town in Nets fasten’d to Canes, and supported by two or more Men; which was the easiest way of travelling, and they desir’d no other Reward but a Fish-Hook and a few Glass-Beads.

They have also Sheep of an extraordinary Size, with large Tails, upon which they carry’d Jars of Oil and Wine.

He says the rich Oar when taken out of these Mines looks like Black Lead, then they grind it by certain Engines, and wash it thro fine Sieves into pav’d Cisterns.

They make the _Indians_ and other Slaves work quite naked in the Mines, that they mayn’t hide any thing.

The Curious who would know more of the Manners of the Natives, or the History and particular Product of this large Country, may find it in _Gemelli_,[112] Father _Sepp_, and Father _Techo_,[113] but this is enough for my purpose, to shew what a vast Field of Trade may be open’d here, and how dangerous it may prove to all _Europe_, if the House of _Bourbon_ continue possess’d of that Trade.

Some being of Opinion that our _South-Sea_ Company may possess themselves, by virtue of the late Act, of the River _de la Plata_, as far up that River and Country as they please, either in the Provinces of _Paraguay_ or _Tucuman_; I shall give a further Description of those large Provinces, after taking notice that according to several of our Draughts _Paraguay_ lies both on the E. and W. side of the River _La Plata_; according to others, entirely on the E. side, and _Tucuman_ on the W. side.

The _Sansons_ make _Paraguay_ 720 miles from S. to N. and 480, where broadest, from E. to W. and place it betwixt S. Lat.

14 & 24. Long.

315 & 325. but the Breadth is not equal.

Father _Techo_ says the River _Paraguay_, which gives name to the Country, is one of the greatest in _America_, receives several other large Rivers, runs 300 Leagues before it falls into the _Parana_, about 200 from the Sea is navigable, and together with the _Parana_ forms the River _La Plata_.

The word _Paraguay_ in the Language of the Country signifies the Crown’d River, because the Inhabitants wear Crowns of Feathers of several beautiful Colours, which they have from the Birds that abound in that Country.

I shall not insist upon the several Nations that inhabit it, among whom the _Garanians_ are the chief, and submitted first to the _Spaniards_; but growing weary of the Slavery they subjected them to, revolted, and were with much difficulty subdu’d after their Leaders were cut off, about 1539. The chief Discovery of this Country is owing to _Dominick Irala_, who in the Reign of the Emperor _Charles_ V. was sent by the Governour _Alvar Nunez Cabeca de Vaca_ with 300 chosen Men, and went 250 Leagues up this River, to endeavour a Communication with _Peru_, but was oppos’d by some of the Natives, of whom 4000 were kill’d, and 3000 taken in a Battel.

The Governour went afterwards on the Discovery himself, and sailing up the River, came to a delicious Island, which his Men call’d _Paradise_, and would have settled there, but he dissuaded them, and advancing to the Borders of _Peru_, found a large Town of 8000 Houses deserted by the Inhabitants, who were affrighted with the noise of the _Spanish_ Fire-Arms.

’Tis said they found in this Town a great Market-place, with a wooden Tower in form of a Pyramid built in the middle, and a monstrous Serpent kept in it by which the Devil pronounc’d Oracles: this Serpent they kill’d with their Fire-Arms.

But a Difference happening betwixt the Officers and Soldiers about dividing the Booty, they return’d to _Assumption_ without pursuing the Discovery any further.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] This Province, till that of _Tucuman_ was taken from it, contain’d all the Country betwixt _Brazile_ and _Peru_.

Our Author adds, that besides the Towns above-mention’d the _Spaniards_ built here _Corientes_ on the Conflux of the _Paraguay_ and _Parana_, which is but a small Town, no way suiting the Dignity of those two Rivers: That 100 Leagues up the _Parana_, in the Province of _Guirana_, the _Spaniards_ built two little Towns call’d _Villarica_ and _Guaira_; that on the upper part of the _Paraguay_ they built _Xeres_ and another _Villarica_, to join _Paraguay_ on that side to the further Provinces; and lastly, the City of _Conception_ on the Marshes of the red River which falls into _Parana_, and was of great use to curb the fierce Nations in the Neighbourhood.

He adds, that all these Towns were first planted by a Race of the noblest Families in _Spain_.

He mentions an extraordinary Herb here call’d _Paraguay_ by the name of the Country; it grows in marshy Grounds, and the Leaves being dry’d and powder’d, and mix’d with warm Water, the _Spaniards_ and Natives drink it several times a day, which makes them vomit, and strengthens their Appetite.

They look upon it as a sort of Catholicon, use it so much that they can’t live without it; and this Custom has so much overspread the neighbouring Provinces, that the Inhabitants will sell any thing to purchase it, tho the excessive Use of it occasions the same Distempers as the immoderate Use of Wine.

They did so fatigue the Natives to gather and powder this Herb, that multitudes of ’em died; and this, with other slavish Employments, did much dis-people the Country.

The Natives live mostly by Fishing, Hunting, and Shooting.

[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata.

_] _Tucuman_ is 300 Leagues long, but varies much in breadth.

’Tis inhabited by four Nations: The furthest South have no fix’d Dwellings, live by Fishing and Hunting, and carry about Mats to serve them for Tents.

The North People live in Marshes, and feed most on Fish.

The Southern People are the tallest, but the Northern the fiercest; and many of them live in Caves, but those nearest _Peru_ in Villages.

They are all very slothful, and have store of Brass and Silver, but make little use of them.

They have large Sheep which carry their Burdens, and their Wool is almost as fine as Silk.

They have many Lions, not so large and fierce as those of _Africa_, but their Tygers are fiercer than those of other Countries.

Their two chief Rivers are _Dulce_ and _Salado_, so call’d from the sweet and salt Taste of their Waters.

They have multitudes of Springs and Lakes, some of which have a petrifying quality.

The Country was formerly very populous, but their Numbers are much decreas’d since the _Spaniards_ planted among them.

They easily subdu’d this Country, which was govern’d by abundance of petty Princes continually at war with one another.

This Province was first discover’d in 1530. by one _Cæsar_ a Soldier belonging to _Sebastian Cabot_, and three more, at the time when _Pizarro_ took _Atabalipa_ the Great _Inga_ of _Peru_.

In 1540. the Viceroy of _Peru_, _Vaca de Castro_, assign’d this Country to _John Rojas_ as a Reward for his Services.

He went thither with 200 _Spaniards_, but was kill’d on the Frontiers by a poison’d Arrow, and his Men under _Francis Mendoza_ march’d thro to the River of Plate.

_Mendoza_ being kill’d as going up that River by Mutineers, _John Nunez Prada_ was sent hither by the Viceroy _Peter Gasca_, subdu’d the _Indians_, built the Town of _St.

Michel_ on the Banks of the River _Escava_, and settled Fryars there.

This Province was afterwards subjected to _Chili_; and _Francis d’Acquire_ being sent thither with 200 _Spaniards_, destroy’d _St.

Michel_, and built _St.

Jago_, now the Metropolis of _Tucuman_, on the River _Dulce_, in S. Lat.

28. says _Techo_, but others place it on the River _Salado_.

’Tis the same Town I have already describ’d. In 1558. _Tarita_ being made Governour of this Province, built the City of _London_ near the Borders of _Chili_, about Lat.

29. calling it so out of compliment to Q. _Mary_ of _England_, at that time marry’d to _Philip_ II.

of _Spain_.

This Town serv’d to curb the Natives.

_Tarita_ did likewise rebuild _St.

Michel_, and reduc’d the Country so much, that 80000 _Indians_ who submitted to _Spain_ were muster’d in the Territory of _St.

Jago_.

The _Spaniards_, as was usual in those days, fighting with one another about the Command of the Provinces, _Tarita_ was drove out in 1561. by _Castaneda_; so that most of the Natives revolted, till 1563. that _Francis d’Acquire_ reduc’d ’em again, and built _Esteco_ above-mention’d. But the _Spaniards_ contending afterwards with one another about the Government, many of their Settlements were destroy’d; so that in _Techo’s_ time the chief Places remaining in this Country were _St.

Jago_, _Cordoua_, _St.

Michel_, _Salta_ or _Lerma_, _Xuxui_ or _St.

Salvador_, _Rioja_, _Esteco_ or _Nuestra Señora de Talavera_, _London_, and a few other small Garisons.

He says that in this Country it does not rain in Winter, but in Summer they have thick Mists and Rains enough.

The Jesuits are the chief Missionaries here, and settled in the principal Towns.

He adds, that near the City _Conception_, which is ninety Leagues from _St.

Jago_, the Natives were call’d _Frontones_, because they made the Fore-part of their Heads bald.

Their Arms were a Club at their Girdle, Bows and Arrows, and Staves set with Jawbones of Fishes.

They went naked, and painted their Bodies to make them look terrible.

They were continually at War among themselves about the Limits of their Land, and they fix’d the Bodies of their slain Enemies in Rows to the Trunks of Trees, that others might be afraid of invading their Borders.

He adds, that the Country about _St.

Michael_ is well peopled, abounds with Woods, and all sorts of _European_ and other Fruits, so that it was call’d _The Land of Promise_; but they are much infested with Tygers, which the Natives kill with great dexterity.

_Guaira_ a Province of _Paraguay_ is very hot, because for the most part under the Tropick of _Capricorn_; is very fruitful, but subject to Fevers and other Diseases: yet when the _Spaniards_ came hither in 1550, they are said to have found 300000 People in this Country, but they say there’s scarce a fifth part of that number now; and the Natives very miserable, having no Meat but the Flesh of wild Beasts nor Bread but what they make of the Root _Mandiosa_.

There are Stones here which breed in an oval Stone-Case, about the bigness of a Man’s Head.

Our Author says, they lie under ground, and when they come to maturity, break with a noise like Bombs, and scatter abundance of beautiful Stones of all colours; which at first the _Spaniards_ took to be of great Value, but did not find ’em so.

The other remarkable Product of this Country is a Flower call’d _Granadillo_, which the Jesuit says represents the Instrument of our Saviour’s Passion, and produces a Fruit as big as a common Egg, the Inside of which is very delicious.

2. A Fruit call’d _Guembe_, which is very sweet, but has yellow Kernels, which if chew’d, occasions a sharp Pain in the Jaws.

3. Dates, of which they make Wine and Pottage.

4. Wild Swine which have their Navel on their backs, and if not cut off immediately when the Beast is kill’d, corrupts the whole Carcase.

5. Abundance of wild Bees, several sorts of which yield store of Honey and Wax.

6. Snakes which dart from the Trees, and twist themselves about Men or Beasts, and soon kill ’em if they be not immediately cut in pieces.

7. _Macaqua_ Birds, so call’d because of an Herb which they eat as an Antidote when hurt by Snakes, which lie and watch for them in the Marshes.

They frequently fight those Snakes, for which Nature has provided them with sharp Beaks for a Weapon, and strong Wings to serve them as a Buckler.

Our Author mentions the River _Paranapan_, which runs thro this Country, is almost as large as the _Paraguay_, and falls into the _Parana_.

Its Banks on both sides are cover’d with tall Trees, especially Cedars, of so vast a Bulk that they make Canoes out of a single Trunk, which row with twenty Oars.

The Jesuits built the Towns of _Loretto_ and _St Ignatius_, and two more near the Conflux of this River and the _Pyrapus_, about 1610, and eleven more have since been built in that Province, where they have brought over many of the Inhabitants to their Religion.

They kill’d many of the _Spaniards_ at first, and then eat them.

These Towns are plac’d by the _Sansons_ about Lat.

22. and betwixt Long.

325, and 330. [Sidenote: _Account of the River Oronoco.

_] Our Author not being distinct in describing the Provinces of _Paraguay_ and _Tucuman_, but sometimes confounding one with the other, I shall only add a few things more relating to those Countries in general.

He mentions a People call’d _Guaicureans_ who live on the Banks of _Paraguay_ near the City _Assumption_, maintain themselves by Fishing and Hunting, and eat all manner of Serpents and wild Beasts without hurt.

They have Tents of Mats, which they remove at pleasure.

They dawb one side of their Bodies with stinking Colours, scarify their Faces to make them look terrible, suffer no Hair to grow on their Bodies; and instead of a Beard fasten a Stone of a finger’s length to their Chin, and make their Deformity the Standard of their Valour.

Their chief Delight is in Drunkenness and War; and to acquire the Title and Dignity of Soldiers, they must endure to have their Legs, Thighs, Tongues, _&c. _ bored with an Arrow; and if they flinch in the least, are not allow’d that Quality: and therefore they inure their Children from their Youth to all sorts of Hardship, and to run Thorns and Briars into their Flesh by way of Pastime.

They honour their Commanders so much, that when they spit they receive it into their hands, stand about them when they eat, and observe all their Motions.

They chose to fight by night, because they knew nothing of Order, but made their Onsets like Beasts.

They either kill’d or sold their Prisoners, if at Man’s Estate, and the young ones they bred in their own way.

They lurk’d in Marshes and Woods by day, keeping Spies abroad; and thus they plagu’d the _Spaniards_ for above a hundred years, till they were civiliz’d by some Missionaries.

They would not allow their Women to paint with a Clay-colour till they had tasted human Flesh; and therefore when they kill’d Enemies, would divide them among the young Women, or give them the Corpse of their own Dead.

They planted Trees over their Graves, adorn’d them with Ostrich Feathers, and met there at certain times, howling in a most barbarous manner, and performing many lewd and hellish Ceremonies.

They worship Parrots as Gods, and have a sort of Bears call’d Ant-Bears: They have long Heads, Snouts much longer than those of Swine, and Tongues like Spears, which they thrust into the Ant-Hills, and lick up those Insects, which are as big as the top of one’s finger, and being toasted over the fire, are eat by the Natives and _Spaniards_ too as a Dainty.

Father _Techo_ mentions another People nam’d _Calchaquins_ in this Country, whom he supposes to have been of _Jewish_ Descent, because when the _Spaniards_ came first here, they found that many of them had _Jewish_ Names, and something of their Habit and Customs.

Our Author draws a Parallel in several Instances; but this, as well as his Arguments to prove that St. _Thomas_ the Apostle planted Christianity in this Country, will scarce obtain Credit among the Learned.

I refer the Curious who would know more of those things to our Author, who brings down what he calls the History of this Country as low as 1645. which is the latest Account we have yet printed, except Father _Sepp’s_ abovemention’d, which brings it to 1691. of which I have given the Substance already.

Before I go further, I shall give some account of the River _Aranoca_ or _Oronoco_, which is the Northern Boundary of our _South-Sea_ Company’s Limits.

The Head of it, according to our Maps, is about N. Lat.

3. and in Long.

77. It runs Eastward about 840 miles, about 60 miles N. of the Equator, then runs N. about 420. and turning NE.

about 120, falls into the Sea about N. Lat.

9. So that its whole Course is about 1370 miles, including Turnings and Windings; for it runs almost the whole Breadth of that part of _America_, since it rises within 160 miles of the _South-Sea_.

Mr. _Sparrey_,[114] who was left in the adjoining Country by Sir _Walter Raleigh_ in 1595. gives the following Account of this River.

He says it is also call’d _Barequan_, is a great River, and others call it _Pariæ_.

It falls into the Sea by sixteen Mouths; but according to _Sansons_ Map, what _Sparrey_ calls Mouths are a number of Islands which lie near the Shore at the Entrance of the River, and the chief of those Mouths nam’d _Capuri_ lies furthest South.

They say it has 9 foot water at full Sea, and but 5 at Ebb: It flows but a small time, when it rises apace, and the Ebb continues 8 hours.

There are several other ways of entring this River, for which I refer to _Sparrey_; as also for the other Rivers which fall into it on both sides.

He attempted a Passage to _Peru_ this way, but in vain.

He says that in this Search he enter’d the great River _Papemena_, which is six Leagues broad, and came to a pleasant Island call’d _Athul_, where the Climate is temperate, the Island is well water’d, and abounds with Fish, Fowls, and other Animals for Food.