Cruising Voyage Around the World — From Grande to Juan Fernandez

* * * * * Nothing remarkable happen’d till _Decemb.

6. _ when we had close cloudy Weather, with Showers; Wind at E. by N. We saw a large Bird call’d _Alcatros_, who spread their Wings from eight to ten foot wide, and are much like a Gannet.

_Dec.

7. _ Rainy Weather, with Thunder and Lightning, a brisk Gale from E by N. to N E. This day I remov’d one of the Boatswain’s Mates, and put _Rob.

Hollanby_ one of our best Sailors in his place.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez.

_] _Dec.

10. _ Yesterday I exchang’d _Benjamin Long_, one of the Boatswain’s Mates, with _Tho.

Hughes_ Boatswain’s Mate on board the _Dutchess_; he being mutinous there, they were willing to be rid of him.

_Dec.

13. _ We had a strong Gale of Wind at S W. Yesterday in the Afternoon we reef’d our Main-Sail, which was the first time since we left _England_.

_Dec.

15. _ The Colour of the Water being chang’d very much, we founded, but had no Ground: so that this Change is probably occasion’d by the nature of the Ground at bottom.

We find it much colder in this Lat.

which is 43. 30 S.

than in the like degree N. tho the Sun was in its furthest Extent to the Southward: which may be ascrib’d partly to our coming newly out of warmer Climates, which made us more sensible of the Cold; or ’tis probable the Winds blow over larger Tracts of Ice than in the same Degrees of N. Latitude.

_Dec.

18. _ Cold hazy rainy Weather.

Yesterday in the Afternoon one of the _Dutchess_’s Men fell out of the Mizen-Top down on the Quarter-Deck, and broke his Skull: They desir’d the Advice of our Surgeon, and I went on board with our two, where they examin’d the Wound, but found the Man irrecoverable; so that he died, and was buried next day.

Brisk Gales from the W N W. to the W by S. _Dec.

19. _ Cold airy Weather: We saw several Grampusses, and a great number of uncommon sort of Porpusses, black on their Back and Fins, and white underneath, with sharp white Noses; they often leap’d a good height out of the Water, turning their white Bellies uppermost: they were much of the shape and bigness of our Porpusses.

We also saw many Seals.

_Dec.

20. _ This day, according to what our Committee agreed at _Grande_, we exchang’d Mr. _Vanbrugh_ for Mr. _Bath_ Agent of the _Dutchess_.

Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable.

This morning at four we had a very thick Fog, when we were caught in Stays,[115] and lost sight of the _Dutchess_, tho we made all the noise agreed on between us.

At nine a clock it clear’d up, being very little Wind, and we were within a League of them.

_Dec.

21. _ Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable.

We have seen a deal of Rock-Weed for some days past, of a great length and generally round in large Branches.

Lat.

48. 50. S.

_Dec.

22. _ Fair Weather with Rain, Wind very veerable.

The Water is generally discolour’d. We had a good Observ.

Lat.

49. 32. S.

_Dec.

22. _ At ten this morning, we saw Land, bearing S S E. dist.

9 Ls.

It appear’d first in three, afterwards in several more Islands.

At twelve it bore S. 1/2 W.

the West End dist.

6 Ls.

a long Tract of Land.

We saw most of that which appear’d at first to be Islands, join with the low Lands.

The Wind being Westerly, and blowing fresh, we could not weather it; but was forc’d to bear away and run along Shore from 3 to 4 Ls.

dist.

It lay as near as we could guess E N E. and W S W. This is _Falkland’s_ Land, describ’d in few Draughts, and none lay it down right, tho the Latitude agrees pretty well.

The middle of it lies in Latitude 51. 00. S.

and I make the Longitude of it to be 61. 54. West from _London_.

The two Islands extend about two Degrees in Length, as near as I could judg by what I saw.

_Dec.

24. _ Last night we reefed both Courses; it blowing strong, lay by from eight till three in the Morning, with our Heads to Northward, Wind at W by S. because we could not tell how far _Falkland_ Islands ran to the Eastward.

Between two and three a clock yesterday in the Afternoon we ran by a high round large white remarkable Rock, which appear’d by it self near 3 Ls.

without the Land; which is not unlike _Portland_, but not so high, and the Rock like that call’d the _Fastneste_ to the Westward of Cape _Clear_ in _Ireland_.

At four yesterday in the Afternoon the North-East End bore S E by S. 7 Ls.

the white Rock bore S. 3 Ls.

At six the Eastermost Land in sight bore S. E.

7 Ls.

All this Land appear’d with gentle Descents from Hill to Hill, and seem’d to be good Ground, with Woods and Harbours.

At three a clock we made sail, steering S E.

Lat.

52. S.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez.

_] _Dec.

25. _ Yesterday Noon we saw the Land again, and find it to trim away Southerly from the white Rock.

A strong Gale of Wind at S W. At six a clock in the Evening we lost sight of the Land, but could not come near enough to see if it was inhabited; and spy’d a Sail under our Lee-Bow bearing S E. from us, dist.

about 4 Ls.

We immediately let our Reefs out, chas’d and got ground of her apace: we kept sight till ten at night, when we lost her.

We spoke with our Consort, and were both of opinion that the Chase would, as soon as she lost sight of us, if homeward bound, bear away to the Northward; so we ran North till Dawning: then we stood to the Westward till it was light, and our Consort kept on with an easy Sail.

When it was full light we saw nothing, being thick hazy Weather: we bore away, and were with our Consort again by five a clock.

Between six and seven it clear’d up: we saw the Chase bearing about S by E. between 3 and 4 Ls.

from us.

It falling calm, we both got out our Oars, row’d and tow’d, with our Boats a-head, and made pretty good way; had a small Breeze at North, so we set all the Sail we could, and by twelve a clock had gain’d very much ground of the Chase.

We had an Observ.

Lat.

52. 40. _Dec.

26. _ We kept on rowing and towing till about six in the Evening;

and perceiving we approach’d her, I went in the Boat to speak with Capt. _Courtney_, and agree how to engage her, if a great Ship, as she appear’d to be; and also adjusted Signals, if either of us should find it proper to board her in the night.

I return’d aboard as soon as possible, when we had a fine Breeze: we got in our Boats and Oars, and made all possible Sail after the Chase, kept in sight of her till past ten a clock, bearing S S W. of us, when it came on thick again; we kept her open on the Larboard, and the _Dutchess_ on the Starboard-Bow, and being short Nights, we thought it impossible to lose one another.

At one a clock this Morning my Officers persuaded me to shorten Sail, telling me we should lose our Consort if we kept on: I was prevail’d with to do so, and in the Morning had a very thick Fog, so that I could see neither our Consort nor Chase till an hour after ’twas full Light.

When it clear’d up, we saw our Consort on our Larboard-Bow; we fir’d a Gun for her to bear down, but immediately we saw the Chase ahead of her about four miles, which gave us new Life.

We forthwith hal’d up for them; but the Wind soon veering a-head, had a great disadvantage in the Chase.

We ran at a great rate, being smooth Water; but it coming on to blow more and more, the Chase outbore our Consort: so she gave off, and being to Windward, came down very melancholy to us, supposing the Chase to have been a _French_ homeward-bound Ship from the _South-Seas_.

Thus this Ship escap’d; which, considering that we always out-went her before, is as strange as our first seeing of her in this place, because all Ships that we have heard of bound out or home this way, kept within _Falkland’s_ Island.

At twelve a clock we saw a little plain low Island, which bore W N W. dist.

4 Ls.

not mark’d in any of our Charts.

The Wind has been very veerable since six a clock last night, from the N N E to the S. where it now is.

Lat.

53. 11. S.

_Dec.

27. _ Strong Gales, with Squalls from the South to the West.

The _Dutchess_ put her Guns into the Hold again, that she took up in the Chase.

Yesterday at two in the Afternoon we put about, and stood off to the Eastward from the little low Island: because we could but just weather it, we were not willing to come too near it.

Lat.

54. 15. S.

_Dec.

30. _ Fresh Gales of Wind at West, hazy Weather mix’d with small Rain.

We had an Observ.

Lat.

58. 20. _January 1. _ Fresh Gales of Wind from the W N W. to the W S W. with Fogs, but indifferent smooth Water.

This being New-Year’s Day, every Officer was wish’d a merry New-Year by our Musick; and I had a large Tub of Punch hot upon the Quarter-Deck, where every Man in the Ship had above a Pint to his share, and drank our Owners and Friends Healths in _Great Britain_, to a happy new Year, a good Voyage, and a safe Return.

We bore down to our Consort, and gave them three Huzza’s, wishing them the like.

_Jan.

2. _ Fresh Gales from the W S W. to the N W. with Fogs.

Clothes and Liquor were now an excellent Commodity amongst our Ships Company, who are but meanly stor’d: We had six Taylors at work for several weeks to make them Clothing, and pretty well supply’d their Wants by the spare Blankets and red Clothes belonging to the Owners; and what every Officer could spare, was alter’d for the Mens Use.

The like was done on board the _Dutchess_.

[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez.

_] _Jan.

5. _ Just past twelve Yesterday it came on to blow strong: We got down our Fore-Yard, and reef’d our Fore-Sail and Main-Sail; but there came on a violent Gale of Wind, and a great Sea.

A little before six we saw the _Dutchess_ lowering her Main-Yard: the Tack flew up, and the Lift unreev’d, so that the Sail to Leeward was in the water and all a-back, their Ship took in a great deal of Water to Leeward; immediately they loos’d their Sprit-Sail, and wore her before the Wind: I wore after her, and came as near as I could to ’em, expecting when they had gotten their Main-Sail stow’d they would take another Reef in, and bring to again under a two-reef’d Main-Sail, and reef’d and ballanc’d Mizen, if the Ship would not keep to without it: but to my surprize they kept scudding to the Southward.

I dreaded running amongst Ice, because it was excessive cold; so I fir’d a Gun as a Signal for them to bring to, and brought to our selves again under the same reef’d Main-Sail.

They kept on, and our Men on the look-out told me they had an Ensign in their Maintop-Mast Shrouds as a Signal of Distress, which made me doubt they had sprung their Main-Mast; so I wore again, our Ship working exceeding well in this great Sea.

Just before night I was up with them again, and set our Fore-Sail twice reef’d to keep ’em Company, which I did all night.

About three this morning it grew more moderate; we soon after made a Signal to speak with them, and at five they brought to: when I came within haile, I enquir’d how they all did aboard; they answer’d, they had ship’d a great deal of Water in lying by, and were forc’d to put before the Wind, and the Sea had broke in the Cabin-Windows, and over their Stern, filling their Steerage and Waste, and had like to have spoil’d several Men; but God be thank’d all was otherwise indifferent well with ’em, only they were intolerably cold, and every thing wet.

At ten we made sail, Wind at W N W. and moderate.

Lat.

60,58. _Jan.

6. _ Raw cold Weather, with some Rain.

A great Sea from the N W. little Wind from the N N W. to the West.

I and Capt. _Dampier_ went in the Yall on board the _Dutchess_, to visit ’em after this Storm; where we found ’em in a very orderly pickle, with all their Clothes drying, the Ship and Rigging cover’d with them from the Deck to the Main-Top: They got six more Guns into the Hold, to make the Ship lively.

_Jan.

7. _ Fresh Gales of Wind, with hazy Weather and some small Rain.

Yesterday about three in the Afternoon _John Veale_ a Landman died, having lain ill a Fortnight, and had a Swelling in his Legs ever since he left _Grande_.

At nine last night we bury’d him; this is the first that died by Sickness out of both Ships since we left _England_.

Several of the _Dutchess_’s Men had contracted Illness by the Wet and Cold.

Wind from the N N W. to the W N W. _Jan.

10. _ Strong Gales of Wind, with Squalls of Rain and Hail, and a great Sea from the W. We lay by with our Head to the Southward till 12 last night, then came to sail under three-reef’d Courses,[116] and sometimes the Maintop-Sail low set, Wind from the W. to the N. and thence to the N. W.

We have no Night here.

Lat.

61. 53. Long.

W.

from _Lond.

_ 79. 58 being the furthest we run this way, and for ought we know the furthest that any one has yet been to the Southward.

_Jan.

14. _ Moderate Gales with cloudy Weather, Wind veerable.

This day the _Dutchess_ bury’d a Man that died of the Scurvy.

_Jan.

15. _ Cloudy Weather, with Squalls of Rain, fresh Gales at S W. We had an Observ.

Lat.

56. S.

We now account our selves in the _South-Sea_, being got round Cape _Horne_.

The _French_ Ships that came first to trade in these Seas came thro the Straits of _Magellan_: but Experience has taught them since, that it is the best Passage to go round Cape _Horne_, where they have Sea-room enough; the Straits, being in many places very narrow, with strong Tides and no Anchor-ground.

Here I think it proper to give an Account of the first Discovery of the _South-Sea_, of the Passage to it by the Straits of _Magellan_, of the chief of those who have pass’d those Straits, and a short Description of the Country on both sides of ’em.

_An Account of the Discovery of the_ South-Sea, _and of the Straits of_ Magellan, _&c. from_ Ovalle _and other Authors_.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Discovery of the South-Sea.

_] The first _European_ who discover’d the _South-Sea_, was _Basco_ or _Vasco Nuñes de Balboa_ a _Spaniard_, in 1513. He was the first who landed on the Isthmus of _Darien_, and made war with their Caciques or Princes; who not being able to resist his Fire-Arms, and perceiving that the chief Design of the _Spaniards_ was to find Gold, one of the Caciques told _Vasco_, that since they were so fond of that which he and his Countrymen valu’d so little, he would conduct them over the Mountains to another Sea, upon which they might find a Country where the People had all their Utensils of Gold.

This was the first notice the _Spaniards_ had of the _South-Sea_.

_Vasco_ march’d on till he came near the top of the highest Mountain, where he order’d his Men to halt, because he would have the honour of first discovering that Sea himself: which having done, he fell down on his knees and thank’d God for his Success, and call’d it the _South-Sea_, in opposition to that on the other side the Continent, Having pass’d these Mountains, he march’d down till he came to the Coast, and took possession of it in the name of the King of _Spain_.

When he return’d back, he found a new _Spanish_ Governour in _Darien_ call’d _Pedrarias_; who being his Enemy because he envy’d the King’s making him Governour and Admiral of the _South-Sea_, he falsly accus’d him of Treason and cut off his Head, and sent _Gaspar Morales_ and _Francis Pizarro_ to compleat the Discovery, with a good number of Men, and large Dogs that were as terrible to the _Indians_ as the _Spaniards_ Fire-Arms.

Here they discover’d the Isle of Pearls, and forc’d the Natives to fish for them, and then discover’d the rest of the Coast.

The first who found a Passage from the _North-Sea_ was _Ferdinand Magaillans_, who in 1519 sail’d on purpose by Commission from the Emperor _Charles_ V. to discover it.

In Lat.

52. S.

he found the Passage, which from him has been since call’d the Straits of _Magellan_.

_Pigafetta_ an _Italian_, who made the Voyage with him, says that in S. Lat.

49-1/2. at Port _St.

Julian_, they found Giants whose Waste a middle-siz’d Man could scarce reach with his Head: they were clad with the Skins of Beasts as monstrous as themselves, arm’d with huge Bows and Arrows, and of a Strength proportionable to their Bulk, yet good-natur’d: One of them seeing himself in a Looking-Glass on board the Ship, was so frighten’d that he run backward, and tumbled down several Men that stood behind him.

The Crew gave Toys to some of them, at which being mightily pleas’d, they suffer’d them to put Shackles about their Arms and Legs, which they took for Ornaments; but when they found themselves fast, bellow’d like Bulls.

One of them, he says, made his Escape from nine Men, after they had got him down and ty’d his hands.

Other Voyagers say they have seen such Giants in those parts, particularly Mr. _Candish_, _Sebald de Wert_ in 1599. and _Spilberg_ in 1614. but the Reader may believe of this Story what he pleases.

_Pigafetta_ says the Straits were 110 Ls.

long, in some places very wide, and in others not above half a League over.

_Magaillans_ pass’d ’em in _Novemb.

_ 1520. and being overjoy’d, he call’d the Cape from whence he first saw the _South-Sea_ the _Cape of Desire_.

After rambling almost four months in the _South-Sea_, where he suffer’d extreme Want, and lost many of his Men, he sail’d to the _Ladrones_ Islands, and foolishly engaging 7000 Natives in _Mathan_, which is one of them, he was kill’d. One of his Ships forsook him as he pass’d the Straits, and return’d to _Spain_: of the other four, only the Ship _Victoria_ return’d to _St.

Lucar_ near _Sevil_, under the Command of _John Sebastian Cabot_, who was nobly rewarded by the Emperor.

In 1539 _Alonso de Camargo_ a _Spaniard_ pass’d the same Straits, and arriv’d at the Port of _Arequipa_ in _Peru_; but much shatter’d, having lost one of his Ships, and another leaving him, return’d to _Spain_.

After him several other _Spaniards_ pass’d the same way, and they planted a Colony and Garison at the North End, to block up the Passage to other Nations; but without success, the Garison being all starved or destroy’d by the _Indians_.

The 15_th_ of _Novemb.

_ 1577. the famous Sir _Francis Drake_ set out from _Plymouth_ with five Sail, and having touch’d at several places by the way, enter’d the Straits the 21_st_ of _August_ following.

He found them very dangerous, because of the many Turnings, contrary Winds, and sudden Blasts from high Mountains cover’d with Snow on both sides, and their Tops reaching above the Clouds, and no anchoring but in some narrow River or Creek.

The 24_th_ he came to an Island in the Straits, where there were so many Fowls call’d _Penguins_, that his Men kill’d 3000 in a day, which serv’d them for Provisions.

The 6_th_ of _September_ he enter’d the _South-Sea_, where he met with dreadful Storms, and one of his Ships was drove back into the Straits, thro which she return’d to _England_; as Sir _Francis Drake_ did _July_ 24. 1580. being the first Sea-Captain that ever sail’d round the World, and brought his Ship home, which was accounted a great Honour to the _English_ Nation.

_July_ 1. 1586. Mr. _Tho.

Candish_, afterwards Sir _Thomas_,[117] sail’d from _Plymouth_ with three Ships, and the 6_th_ of _January_ after enter’d the Straits, having met with a severe Storm near the mouth of ’em.

He took the Remainders of a _Spanish_ Garison there, who from 400 were reduc’d to 23 by Famine; and those of King _Philip’s_ City, which had been built in the Straits, were in the same miserable Condition, so that they abandon’d the Place.

They found Cannibals in some part of the Straits, who had eat many of the _Spaniards_, and design’d the like to the _English_, had they not been kept off by their Guns.

Mr. _Candish_ was stop’d here a considerable while by a furious Storm and bad Weather, which reduc’d him to Want of Provisions, till the 24_th_ of _February_ that he got into the _South-Sea_, and bought Provisions of the _Indians_.

Mr. _Candish_ return’d to _England_, after having sail’d round the World, the 9_th of September_ next Year.

He again attempted the Passage of the same Straits in 1591, but without Success;

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan.

_] as Mr. _Fenton_[118] did in 1582. as _Floris_ did at the same time; the Earl of _Cumberland_ in 1586. Mr. _Chidley_ in 1589. and Mr. _Wood_ in 1596. Sir _Richard Hawkins_ pass’d them in 1593. but was taken by the _Spaniards_; and Mr. _Davis_[119] the Discoverer to the N W. pass’d and repass’d those Straits, but was forc’d back by contrary Winds.

So that our Countrymen, tho they did not all succeed in the Attempt, yet have been the most fortunate in passing them of any other Nation: for the _Dutch_ pass’d them in 1597. with five Ships, of which only one return’d. Five other _Dutch_ Ships pass’d them in 1614. when they lost one of them.

In 1623. the _Dutch Nassaw_ Fleet, so call’d because the Prince of _Orange_ was the greatest Adventurer, attempted it with fifteen brave Ships, and 2 or 3000 Men; but were repuls’d, wherever they came to land, by the _Spaniards_, so that they could not settle there.

Other Nations attempted it likewise, and particularly Don _Garcia de Loaisa_, a Knight of _Malta_ and a _Spaniard_, with seven Ships and 450 Men; and tho he pass’d the Straits, he died himself, and all his Ships were afterwards taken by the _Portuguese_ or others.

_Vargas_ Bishop of _Placentia_ sent 7 Ships to attempt it, one of which only succeeded, went to _Arequipa_ a Port on the _South-Sea_, and discover’d the Situation of the Coast of _Peru_; but went no further.

_Ferdinand Cortez_, the Conqueror of _New Spain_, sent two Ships and 400 Men in 1528. to discover the way to the _Moluccas_ thro the Straits, but without success.

Two _Genoese_ Ships were the first that attempted it in 1526, after _Magellan_, but could not effect it.

_Sebastian Cabot_ try’d it also by Commission from Don _Emanuel_ King of _Portugal_, but could not do it.

_Americus Vespusius_ was sent by the same Prince, but could neither find the Straits nor the River of _La Plata_.

_Simon Alcasara_ a _Spaniard_ attempted it likewise with several Ships and 440 Men, but came back without performing it, his Men having mutiny’d. All these Attempts by the _Spaniards_, &c. happen’d before Sir _Francis Drake_ perform’d it.

In the Reports made of those Straits upon Oath to the Emperor _Charles_ V.

those who attempted this Passage give the following Account, _viz.

_ That from the Cape of 11000 _Virgins_ at the Entrance of the North Sea, to the Cape of _Desire_ at the Entrance of the South-Sea, is 100 _Spanish_ Ls.

that they found in this Strait three great Bays of about 7 Leagues wide from Land to Land, but the Entrances not above half a League, and encompass’d with such high Mountains, that the Sun never shines in them, so that they are intolerably cold, there being a continual Snow, and the Nights very long: That they found good Water with Cinamon-Trees, and several others, which tho they look green burnt in the Fire like dry Wood: That they found many good sorts of Fish, good Harbours with 15 fathom Water, and several pleasant Rivers and Streams: That the Tides of both Seas meet about the middle of the Straits with a prodigious Noise and Shock; but some of the _Portuguese_, who had pass’d the Straits, say they are only high Floods which last about a month, rise to a great height, and sometimes fall so low and ebb so fast, that they leave Ships on dry ground.

The Reader may find more of this in _Herrera’s_ History: but others differ in their Accounts, and particularly _Spilberg_ a _Dutchman_, who mentions a Port here that he call’d _Famous_, by way of Eminency, the adjacent Soil producing Fruit of various Colours and excellent Taste, and affording Brooks of very good Water.

He mentions 24 other Ports besides those that he did not see, and particularly the _Piemento_ or Pepper-Harbour, so call’d because of the Trees which grow there of an Aromatick Smell, whose Bark tastes like Pepper, and is more hot and quick than that of the _East-Indies_.

The _Spaniards_ having brought some of it to _Seville_, it was sold there for two Crowns a pound.

The last of our Countrymen who pass’d them was Sir _John Narborough_,[120] who set out from the _Thames_, _May_ 15. 1669. with two Ships.

He had K. _Charles_ II’s Commission, was furnish’d out at his Majesty’s Charge, and enter’d the Straits _October_ 22. following.

He says, that from the Entrance of this Strait to the Narrow there’s good Anchorage, and not much Tide, but in the Narrow the Tide runs very strong.

The Flood sets into the Straits, and the Ebb out, keeping its Course as on other Coasts.

It rises and falls near 4 Fathom perpendicular, and it is high Water here on the Change of the Moon at eleven a clock.

When he came to the Narrow, he found the Tide very strong, which endanger’d the running of his Ships upon the steep Rocks on the North side.

From the first Narrow to the second is above 8 Ls.

and the Reach betwixt them 7 Ls broad.

He found a Bay on the North [Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan.

_] side at the Point of the second Narrow, where one may ride in 8 Fathom Water in clear sandy Ground half a mile from the Shore.

In the Channel of the second Narrow he found 38 Fathom Water, and several Bays and Cliffs with little Islands.

He exchang’d several Trifles with the Natives for Bows and Arrows, and their Skin-Coats.

They were of a middle Stature, well limb’d, with round Faces, low Foreheads, little Noses, small black Eyes and Ears, black flaggy Hair of an indifferent Length, their Teeth white, their Faces of an Olive-Colour, daub’d with Spots of white Clay and Streaks of Soot, their Bodies painted with red Earth and Grease, their Clothing of the Skins of Seals, Guianacoes and Otters, wrapt about them like the _Scotch_ Highlanders Plads.

They had Caps of the Skins of Fowls with the Feathers on, and pieces of Skins on their feet to keep them from the ground.

They are very active and nimble, and when about Business go quite naked; only the Women have a piece of Skin before them, and differ from the Men in Habit only by want of Caps, and having Bracelets of Shells about their Necks.

They seem to have no manner of Government nor Religion, live by Hunting and Fishing, and are arm’d with Bows and Arrows; the latter 18 Inches long, and headed with Flint Stones.

These People Sir _John_ found in _Elizabeth-Isle_, which lies near the second Narrow.

In Port _Famine_ Bay, S. Lat.

53. 35. he found good Wood and Water, and abundance of _Piemento_ Trees.

Their Language is guttural and slow.

Sir _John_ is of opinion, that the Mountains contain Gold or Copper.

He computes the whole Length of the Straits at 116 Leagues.

For the rest we refer to him.

I have insisted the longer on these Straits, partly because they are so much talk’d of, and partly to justify our going to the _South-Seas_ by the way of Cape _Horne_, which is far more safe: so that in all probability the Straits of _Magellan_ will be little frequented by _Europeans_ in time to come.

The Land on the North side of the Straits is call’d _Patagonia_, and that on the South _Terra del Fuego_, because of the numerous Fires and the great Smoke which the first Discoverers saw upon it.

It extends the whole Length of the Straits, and lies from East to West about 130 Leagues, according to _Ovalle_; and before the Discovery of the Straits of _St.

Vincent_, otherwise call’d _Le Maire’s_ Straits, was suppos’d to join to some part of the _Terra Australis_.

_Ovalle_ says, that on the Continent of _Chili_, near the Straits of _Magellan_, there’s a People call’d _Cessares_, who are suppos’d to be descended from part of the _Spaniards_ that were forc’d ashore in the Straits, when the Bishop of _Placentia_ sent the Ships abovemention’d to discover the _Molucca_ Islands.

’Tis suppos’d they contracted Marriages with some _Indian_ Nation, where they have multiply’d, and taught them to build Cities and the Use of Bells.

_Ovalle_ says, that when he wrote the History of _Chili_, he receiv’d Letters and other Informations that there is such a Nation in those parts, and that one of the Missionaries had been in the Country with Captain _Navarro_, and found the People to be of a white Complexion with red in their Cheeks; by the Shape of their Bodies they seem’d to be Men of Courage and Activity, and by the Goodness of their Complexion ’twas probable they might be mix’d with a Race of _Flemmings_, who had been ship-wreck’d in those parts.

But there being no farther Account of these People since _Ovalle’s_ Account of _Chili_ in the Year 1646. we believe this Relation to be fabulous.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan.

_] M.

_de Beauchesne Gouin_, who is the last that attempted the Passage of the Straits of _Magellan_, that we have heard of, came to an anchor at the _Virgins_ Cape in the mouth of this Strait the 24_th_ of _June_ 1699. and the Wind being contrary, he lay at anchor betwixt the Continent and _Terra del Fuego_.

He weighed again, the Winds being still contrary, and on the third of _July_ anchor’d at Port _Famine_ in the Straits, where the _Spaniards_ had built a Garison, but were forc’d to quit it for want of Provisions.

He observes, that from the Mouth of the Straits to this place, the Climate seem’d to be as temperate as in _France_, tho now the coldest Season of the Year in those parts.

He found abundance of Wood for Firing, but the greatest Inconveniency he met with there, was from the great Storms of Snow, tho it did not lie long, being carry’d off by Rains which come from the West.

He is of opinion that a Settlement might easily be made here, in a part of the Country extending above 20 Leagues; and that he was inform’d the Islands of _St.

Elizabeth_ in the Straits are proper enough for Corn and Cattel, if planted with them.

He sent his Sloop ashore on _Terra del Fuego_, where he saw Fires, and found the savage Natives by 50 or 60 together in Companies, and some of them came aboard his Ship that lay 5 Ls.

from the shore.

They were very peaceable and friendly, but more miserable than our Beggars in _Europe_, having no Clothes but a strait Coat of wild Beasts Skins, that comes no lower than their knees, and pitiful Hutts made up of Poles cover’d with Skins of Beasts; and this is all the shelter they have against the Extremity of the Weather.

They came in such multitudes to beg from him, as soon made him weary of their Company; so that he weigh’d again the 16_th_ of _August_, and stopt at Port _Galand_ to leave some Letters there for those who were to follow him from _France_, as had been agreed on.

And here he observes, that both the Climate and the Navigation of the Straits are very unequal; and that from this place to the Entrance of the _South-Sea_ there’s nothing but extraordinary high Mountains on each side, from whence come very impetuous and frightful Torrents, and scarce any place for Anchorage to be found, or one Day without either Rain or Snow.

He adds, that he found an Island opposite to the Mouth of the Strait of _St.

Jerom_, that is set down in none of our Maps.

This Island, he says, has two good Harbours, which may be of great consequence to those who pass this way.

He took possession of it, call’d it by the name of the Island _Louis le Grand_; the largest Harbour he nam’d Port _Dauphin_, and the lesser, which is very convenient, Port _Philippeaux_.

After having given this Character of those Straits, he says one may be sure of a Passage thro them, provided it be in the proper Season, but ’tis very difficult in the Winter.

He came out of those Straits into the _South-Sea_ on the 21_st_ of _January_, 1700. and went to view the Harbour of _San Domingo_, which he says is the _Spanish_ Frontier, and the only Place where a new Settlement can be made there, the rest being all possess’d already.

He arriv’d there the 3_d_ of _February_, 1700. and on the 5_th_ anchor’d on the East of an Island call’d by different Names, but the latest Authors call it _St.

Magdalens_ Island.

He sent his first Lieutenant to view and take possession of it, who brought him word that it was a very pleasant place, and shew’d him some fine beautiful Shrubs and Pease-Blossoms that he found upon the East side of it; from whence he conjectures that it may be a proper place to inhabit, tho he owns that the Climate is very moist, and they have frequent Rains and Mists, which he ascribes to the high Mountains.

He made ready to discover four other Islands, which lie in view of this Isle and the Main Land, and sounded as he went on, but durst not venture to go among ’em with so large a Ship, because there blew a strong North-West Wind, follow’d by a thick Mist, which made him lose sight of Land; so that to his great sorrow he could not compleat the Discovery of that Frontier.

He adds, that ’tis full of high Mountains down to the very Sea; but was afterwards inform’d by a _Spaniard_ who winter’d in those parts, that there’s a very good Harbour for Ships to ride in, where they may be moor’d to tall Trees, and that there are very few Inhabitants on this Coast, but some wandring Savages, like those on the Straits of _Magellan_.

This and the other Journals convince me intirely that the best way to the _South-Sea_ is round Cape _Horne_, the Route we pursu’d in our Voyage.

Besides what I said from my own Observation, to prove how extensive a Trade we might have in those Seas, I shall add the following Observations from M. _de Beauchesne_; who says, that tho he was look’d upon as a Free-Booter, and that the then _Spanish_ Governours on those Coasts were forbid to trade or suffer the People to trade with any but their own Subjects in those Seas, and that at _Valdivia_ and other places they fir’d at him when he approach’d their Harbours, and deny’d so much as to sell him any Provisions, or to suffer him to wood or water; yet at _Rica_ some particular Persons traded with him to the Value of 50000 Crowns, and told him, That that place was not so proper for them to act so manifestly contrary to Law, but if he went to a place more retir’d, they would buy all he had, tho both his Ships were full of Goods.

Accordingly, when he came to _Hilo_, a great number of Merchants bought all that he had of Value at good rates.

He owns that the Cloth he had on board was half rotten, that the Merchants were vex’d at their Disappointment, and express’d their Resentment that he should come to those parts so ill provided: but in other places the People bought all to the very Rags he had on board, and brought him Provisions in abundance to sell, tho they were forbid doing so on pain of Death; and the Officers themselves conniv’d at it.

He return’d by the way of Cape _Horne_ in 58 deg.

15 min.

_January_ 1701. and had as good a Passage and Season as could be desir’d, but saw no Land on either side till the 19_th_ of _January_ 1701. when he discover’d a small Island about 3 or 4 Ls.

round, in Lat.

52. odd min.

not mark’d in our Maps, with strong Currents near it; and on the 20_th_ he came to the Isle of _Sebald de Wert_, which is a marshy Land with some rocky Mountains, no Trees, but abundance of Sea-Flow.

[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Le Maire.

_] It is proper here likewise to give an Account of the Straits of _Le Maire_, so call’d from _James Le Maire_ an _Amsterdam_ Merchant, their Discoverer in 1615. They lie in S. Lat.

55. 36. and are form’d by the _Terra del Fuego_ on the West, and an Island by the _Dutch_ call’d _Staten-landt_, or the Country of the States, on the E. The Straits are 8 Leagues wide, with good Roads on each side, and plenty of Fish and Fowl.

The Land on both sides is high and mountainous.

The Discoverers saw very large Fowls bigger than Sea-Mews, and their Wings when extended above a Fathom long each.

They were so tame that they flew into the Ships, and suffer’d the Sailors to handle them.

In Lat.

57. they saw two barren Islands, which they call’d _Barnevelt_; and the South Cape of _Terra del Fuego_, which runs out in a Point to Lat.

57. 48. they nam’d Cape _Horne_.

Some compute this Strait to be only 5 Leagues in Length.

_Ovalle_[121] says, that in 1619 the King of _Spain_ being inform’d that _Le Maire_ had discover’d these Straits, he sent two Vessels to make a further Discovery of ’em.

These Ships came to the East side of the Straits of _Magellan_, where the Crew found a sort of Giants higher by the Head than any _Europeans_, who gave them Gold in exchange for Scissars and other Bawbles; but this can’t be rely’d on.

They went thro this Strait in less than a day’s time, it being not above 7 Leagues in length.

I return now to my Journal.

_Jan.

16. _ Fresh Gales of Wind with cloudy Weather.

These 24 hours we had extraordinary smooth Water, as if we were close under Land: Indifferent warm Weather.

Wind from the W S W. to W by N. _January 20. _ Yesterday at three in the Afternoon we saw high Land bearing E by N. dist.

about 10 Ls.

being the Land about Port _St.

Stephen’s_ on the Coast of _Patagonia_ in the _South-Sea_, describ’d in the Draughts.

S.

Lat.

47. _Jan.

22. _ Fair Weather, with fresh Gales of Wind from W by S. to the W N W.

Last night _George Cross_ died; he was a Smith by Trade, and Armourer’s Mate.

We and the _Dutchess_ have had a great many Men down with the Cold, and some with the Scurvey; the Distemper that this Man died of.

The _Dutchess_ had always more sick Men than we, and have so now: They buried but one Man that died of Sickness, and tell us they hope the rest will recover.

We have but one Man whose Life we doubt of, tho most want a Harbour.

This day Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Cook_ din’d with us.

At two a clock we saw the Land on the Coast of _Patagonia_, being very high, distant about 14 Ls.

Lat.

44. 9. S.

_Jan.