Natural History of Chocolate — The Third Part. Chapter II.

CHAP.

II.

Of Chocolate, properly so called.

In treating of this Liquor, we have two things to examine: The First is, the Original of Chocolate, and the different Manner of preparing it: The Second, the Medicinal Uses that it is proper for; which shall be the Subject of the two following Sections.

SECT.

I

Of the Original of Chocolate, and the different Manners of preparing it.

Chocolate is originally an _American_ Drink, which the _Spaniards_ found very much in use at _Mexico_, when they conquer'd it, about the Year 1520. The _Indians_, who have used this Drink time out of mind, prepared it without any great Art; they roasted their Kernels in earthen Pots, then ground them between two Stones, diluted them with hot Water, and season'd them with _Pimento_[1]: those who were more curious, added _Achiota_[2] to give it a Colour, and [3]_Attolla_ to augment its Substance.

All these things joined together, gave to the Composition so strange a Look, and so odd a Taste, that a _Spanish_ Soldier said, it was more fit to be thrown to Hogs[4], than presented to Men; and that he could never have accustomed himself to it, if the want of Wine had not forced him to it, that he might not always be obliged to drink nothing but Water.

The _Spaniards_[5] taught by the _Mexicans_, and convinced by their own Experience, that this Drink, as rustick as it appeared to them, nevertheless yielded very wholesome Nourishment; try'd to make it more agreeable by the Addition of Sugar, some Oriental Spices, and Things that grew there, which it will be needless to mention, because the Names of them are not so much as known here, and because of so many Ingredients, there is none continued down to us but _Vanilla_; in like manner, that Cinnamon[6] is the only Spice which has had general Approbation, and remains in the Composition of Chocolate.

_Vanilla_ is a Cod of a brown Colour and delicate Smell; it is flatter and longer than our [_French_] Beans, it contains a luscious Substance, full of little black shining Grains.

They must be chosen fresh, full, and well grown, and care must be taken that they are not smeared with Balsam, nor put in a moist Place.

The agreeable Smell, and exquisite Taste that they communicate to Chocolate, have prodigiusly recommended it; but long Experience having taught that it heats very much, its Use is become less frequent, and those who prefer their Health more than pleasing their Senses, abstain from it entirely.

In _Spain_ and _Italy_, Chocolate prepared without _Vanilla_, is called at present _Chocolate of Health_; and in the _French_ Islands of _America_, where _Vanilla_ is neither scarce nor dear, as in _Europe_, they do not use it at all, though they consume as much Chocolate there as in any other Place in the World.

However, a great many People are prejudiced in favour of _Vanilla_, and that I may pay a due Deference to their Judgments, I shall employ _Vanilla_ in the Composition of _Chocolate_, in the best Method and Quantity, as it appears to me; I say, as it appears to me, because there are an infinite Variety of Tastes, and every one expects that we should have regard to his, and one Person is for adding what the other rejects.

Besides, when it is agreed upon what things to put in, it is not possible to hit upon Proportions that will be universally approved; it will therefore be sufficient for me to make choice of such Things as the Majority are agreed upon, and consequently which are agreeable to the Tastes of most.

When the Chocolate Paste is made pretty fine upon a Stone, as I have already explain'd, they add Sugar powdered and passed through a fine Searce; the true Proportion is the same Weight of Sugar as of Kernels, but it is common to put a quarter part less of the former, that it may not dry the Paste too much, nor make it too susceptible of Impressions from the Air, and more subject to be eaten by Worms.

But this fourth Part is again supply'd, when it is made into a Liquor to drink.

The Sugar being well mix'd with the Paste, they add a very fine Powder made of _Vanilla_ and _Cinnamon_ powdred and searced together.

They mix all over again upon the Stone very well, and then put it in Tin Moulds, of what Form you please, where it grows as hard as before.

Those that love Perfumes, pour a little Essence of Amber on it before they put it in the Moulds.

When the Chocolate is made without _Vanilla_, the Proportion of Cinnamon is two Drams to a Pound of Paste; but when _Vanilla_ is used, it should be less by one half.

As for the _Vanilla_, the Proportion is arbitrary;

one, two, or three Cods, and sometimes more, to a Pound, according to every one's Fancy.

Those that make Chocolate for Sale, that they may be thought to have put in a good deal of _Vanilla_, put in Pepper, Ginger, _&c. _ There are even some People so accustomed to these Tastes, that they will not have it otherwise; but these Spices serving only to inflame the Blood, and heat the Body, prudent People take care to avoid this Excess, and will not use any Chocolate whose Composition they are ignorant of.

_Chocolate_ made after this manner, has this Advantage, that when a Person is obliged to go from Home, and cannot stay to have it made into Drink, he may eat an Ounce of it, and drinking after it, leave the Stomach to dissolve it.

In the _Antilloes_ they make Cakes of the Kernels only, without any Addition, as I have taught at the End of the first Part of this Treatise; and when they would make Chocolate of them, they proceed in the following Manner.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] [2] [3] See the Remarks 8, 9, and 10. [4] Porcorum ea verius Colluvies quam hominum Potio.

_Benzo_ apud _Clusium_ Exoticorum Lib.

Cap.

28. [5] Hæc olim Cocolatis erant Exordia & Artis prima Rudimenta.

_P.

Thomæ Strozzæ_ de Mentis potio.

[6] See the 11th Remark.

The Method of making Chocolate after the Manner of the _French_ Islands in _America_.

They scrape off with a Knife from these Cakes aforesaid[1], what Quantity they please, (for Instance, four large Spoonfuls, which weigh about an Ounce) and mix with it two or three Pinches of powder'd Cinnamon finely searced, and about two large Spoonfuls of Sugar in Powder[2].

They put this Mixture into a Chocolate-Pot with a new-laid Egg[3], both White and Yolk; then mix all well together with the Mill, and bring it to the Consistence of Liquid Honey, upon which they afterwards pour boiling Liquor[4], (Milk or Water, as is liked best) at the same time using the Mill that they may be well incorporated together.

Afterwards they put the Chocolate-Pot on the Fire, or in a Kettle of boiling Water; and when the Chocolate rises, they take it off, and having well mill'd it, they pour it into the Dishes.

To make the Taste more exquisite, one may, before it is poured out, add a Spoonful of Orange-Flower Water, wherein a Drop or two of Essence of Amber has been put.

This Manner of making Chocolate has several Advantages above any other, and which render it preferable to them all.

In the first place, one may assert, that being well managed, it has a very agreeable Smell, and a peculiar Delicacy in the Taste; besides, it passes very easily off the Stomach, nor leaves any Settling either in the Chocolate-Pot, or in the Dishes.

In the second place, one has the Satisfaction to prepare it one's self to one's own Taste, to encrease or diminish at pleasure the Quantities of Sugar or Cinnamon, and to add or leave out the Orange-Flower Water, or Essence of Amber; and, in a word, to make any other Alteration that shall be most agreeable.

In the third place, they make no Additions that destroy the good Qualities of the Kernels; it is so temperate, that it may be taken at all Times, and by all Ages, in Summer as well as in Winter, without fearing the least Inconveniency: Whereas _Chocolate_ season'd with _Vanilla_, and other hot and biting Ingredients, cannot but be very pernicious, especially in Summer, to young People, and to dry Constitutions.

The Glass of cold Water that they have introduced to drink before it, or after it, only serves to palliate the Effects for a Time; for the Heat that attends it, will manifest itself in the Blood and _Viscera_, when the Water is drain'd off and gone, by the ordinary ways.

In the fourth place, a Dish is so cheap, as not to come to above a Penny.

If Tradesmen and Artizans were once aware of it, there are few who would not take the Advantage of so easy a Method of Breakfasting so agreeably, at so small a Charge, and to be well supported till Dinner-time, without taking any other Sustenance, Solid or Liquid.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Or rather grate it with a flat Grater, when the Cakes are so dry that they will not be so easily scraped with a Knife.

[2] Because if it was in a Lump, it would weigh more than double the Quantity of scraped Chocolate.

[3] The oily Parts of the Chocolate would not readily unite with the aqueous or watry Parts of the Liquor, without the Intervention of the Egg, which serves as a common Bond, without which this Drink would not have a good Head.

[4] The Proportion of Liquor should be about eight Ounces, or half a Pint, to one Ounce of Chocolate.

SECT.

II.

Of the Uses that may be made of Chocolate with relation to Medicine.

I have always imagined it would be a very great Advantage to Physick, if Medicines could be administred to sick People under an agreeable Form, and a familiar Taste; and the Artifice itself of giving any thing under the appearance and name of something that is delicate, is not without its Benefit: People afflicted with Distempers, have enough to do to support their Pains, without the Inconveniency of distastful Remedies;

however, it would be no small matter to spare them the Aversion they have to every thing that is called a Medicine; and when there is a Necessity for such, Chocolate may serve for very proper Diet, and an excellent Vehicle, wherein to take a Medicine at the same time.

These have been my Thoughts for some Time, and I can affirm that a happy Success has often confirm'd my Opinion.

I could wish that this Essay, imperfect as it is, might serve to waken the Attention of some ingenious Physician, who would give himself the trouble to handle this Matter with greater Accuracy than my small Penetration will permit me to do.

1. How many People neglect to purge themselves, and are so obstinate as to refuse to do it, when they have the greatest need of it, and this because of the great Distaste they have for ordinary Medicines?

Will it not be of the greatest Service to teach them to purge themselves after a delightful Method, and even, if it was necessary, to purge them without their knowledge?

To do this, you need only mix 20 or 26 Grains of _Jalap_ in Powder, (more or less, according to the Age and Strength of the Person) with so much Powder of Cinnamon as is common for a Dish of Chocolate, and to give this Dish as if it were ordinary Chocolate.

I

have had great Experience of this, it is a good Purge without Griping;

several have mistaken the Effect for the Benefit of Nature only, being entirely ignorant of the officious Deceit which I made use of for their sakes.

What Advantages may not there be drawn from this Method of Purging apply'd to Children, who are so backward to take any thing that has the least ill Taste?

2. The Preparations of the _Cortex_, both Galenical and Chymical, have not succeeded.

Its Infusion in Wine, heretofore so much cry'd up, contains but a part of the Vertue; for the _Fæces_, or the Bark that remains at the bottom of the Bottle, has Strength enough to cure the intermitting Fever.

Thus after a thousand fruitless Trials, it is now given again in Substance, reduced to a very fine Powder, which is either made into _Bolus's_, or taken in Water.

This Practice however is attended with several Inconveniences; for a great many People, especially Children, cannot swallow it in _Bolus's_.

The same Inconveniences follow the other Way of taking it in Water, and is neither less troublesome, nor less nauseous.

To avoid all this, a Dram of the _Cortex_ reduced to a fine[1] Powder, and finely searced, and afterwards ground dry on a Porphyry, with the Cinnamon designed for a Dish of Chocolate, and mixed in the Chocolate with more Sugar than ordinary, may be taken without the least Reluctancy, and, if necessary, without being perceived: The Person will be nourished at the same time much better than with Broth, which is easily corrupted by a feverish Stomach; neither will the Particles of the _Cortex_ offend the Stomach, being wrapped up by the Unctuosity of the Chocolate.

I have cured Intermittent Fevers after this manner, nor did it ever fail of good Success.

3. The most elaborate Preparations of Steel, are not one jot the better upon that account; the simple Filings have more Vertue than was ever extorted from this Metal by any Preparation: there is nevertheless an Inconveniency in the Use of them, because all the Particles of the Steel uniting together, by their Weight, at the bottom of the Stomach, form a kind of a Cake, which fatigues it, and makes it very uneasy.

To remedy this, after the Filings have been ground into a very fine Powder upon a Porphyry; you must mix it with the Cinnamon, when you make your Chocolate, and it is certain that the Particles of the Steel will be so divided and separated by the Agitation of the Mill, and so entangled in the Chocolate, that there will be no danger of a future Separation.

Besides, the aromatick Particles of the Cinnamon, and the alkaline ones of the Chocolate, will not a little add to the Strength and Operation of this Remedy.

4. After this manner may you mix with the Chocolate the Powders of _Millepedes_, _Vipers_, _Earthworms_, the Livers and Galls of Eels, to take away the distasteful Ideas that the Sick entertain against these Remedies.

5. The Use of Milk is a specifick Remedy for the Cure of several Distempers, but by Misfortune there are but few Stomachs that can bear it, and several Methods have been try'd to find out Help for this Inconvenience.

Without troubling myself to mention or examine them, will it not be an easy and natural Method, to hinder the Milk from curdling on the Stomach, to pour a hot Dish of Chocolate upon a Pint or Quart of Milk?

The butirous Parts of the Milk and Chocolate, are in reality analogous to each other, and very proper to be united for the same Purpose; and what is bitter and alkaline in the Chocolate, ought necessarily to hinder the curdling of the Milk in the Stomach.

It is easy to confirm by Experience the Reasoning upon this sort of Chocolated Milk.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] This, if true, overturns what has been said about the Mechanical Cure of an Ague, by _Quincy_, who pretends that the Vertue of the Cortex lies in its Texture, which this Preparation destroys.

CHAP.

III.