Chocolate: or, An Indian Drinke — The First and Second Points

_The first Point.

_ Concerning the first Point, I say, that _Chocolate_ is a name of the _Indians_; which in our vulgar Castilian, we may call a certaine _Confection_, in which (among the Ingredients) the principall _Basis_, and Foundation, is the _Cacao_; of whose Nature and Quality it is necessary first to treat: And therefore I say, according to the common received opinion, that it is cold, and dry, _à prædominio_; that is to say, that though it be true, that every Simple containes in it the Qualities of the foure Elements, in the action, and re-action, which it hath in it, yet there results another distinct quality, which we call Complexion.

This Quality or Complexion, which ariseth of this Mixture, is not alwayes one, and the same; neither hath it the effect in all the mixtures, but they may be varied nine wayes; four _Simple_, from whence one onely quality doth abound; and foure _Compounded_, from whence two Symbolizing qualities are predominant; and one other, which we call _ad pondus_, which is of all these fore-said qualities, which are in _æquilibrio_, that is to say, in equall measure and degree.

Of all these the Complexion of _Cacao_ is composed, since there arise two qualities, which are cold, and dry; and in the substance, that rules them, hath it _restringent_ and _obstructive_, of the nature of the Element of the _Earth_.

And then, as it is a Mixed, and not a simple Element, it must needs have parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; and particularly, it partakees (and that, not a little) of those, which correspond with the Element of Aire, that is, Heat and Moysture, which are governed by the Unctious parts; there being drawne out of the _Cacao_ much Butter, which, in the _Indies_ I have seene drawne out if it, for the Face, by the _Criollas_.

It may Philosophically be objected, in this manner: _Two contrary Qualities, and Disagreeing, cannot be _in gradu intenso_, in one and the same Subject: _Cacao_ is cold and drie, in predominency: Therefore, it cannot have the qualities contrary to those; which are Heat, and Moysture.

The first Proposition is most certaine, and grounded upon good Philosophy: The second is consented unto, by all: The third, which is the Conclusion, is regular.

_ It cannot be denyed, but that the _Argument_ is very strong, and these reasons being considered by him of _Marchena_, have made him affirme, that _Chocolate_ is Obstructive; it seeming to be contrary to Philosophy, that in it there should be found _Heat_ and _Moysture_, _in gradu intenso_; and to be so likewise in _Cold_ and _Dry_.

To this, there are two things to be answered: One, that he never saw the experience of drawing out the Butter, which I have done; and that when the _Chocolate_ is made without adding any thing to the dryed Powder, which is incorporated, onely by beating it well together, and is united, and made into a Paste, which is a signe, that there is a moist, and glutinous part, which, of necessity, must correspond with the Element of Aire.

The other reason, we will draw from Philosophy; affirming that, in the _Cacao_, there are different substances.

In the one, that is to say, in that, which is not so fat, it hath a greater quantity of the Oylie, then of the earthie Substance; and in the fatter part, it hath more of the earthy than of the Oily substance.

In these there is Heate and Moysture in predominancy; and in the other, cold and dry.

Notwithstanding that it is hard to be believed, that in one and the same substance, and so little of the _Cacao_, it can have substances so different: To the end that it may appeare more easie, clear, and evident, first we see it in the _Rubarbe_, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which are Binding, Cold and Dry, which have a vertue to strengthen, binde, and stop the loosenesse of the Belly: I say also, that he that sees and considers the steele, so much of the nature of the earth, as being heavy, thick, cold, and dry; it seemes to be thought unproper for the curing of Opilations, but rather to be apt to encrease them; and yet it is given for a proper remedy against them.

This difficulty is cleared thus, that though it be true, that it hath much of the Earthy part; yet it hath also parts of Sulphur, and of quick silver, which doe open, and disopilate; neither doth it so, untill it be helped by Art, as it is ground, stirred, and made fine, in the preparing of it; the Sulphurous parts, and those of quick-silver, being thinne, active, and penetrative, they mingle, at the last with those parts, which are Earthy and astringent: Insomuch, that they being mingled after this manner one with another, we cannot now say, that the steele is astringent, but rather, that it is penetrative, attenuating and opening.

Let us prove this Doctrine by Authorities; and let the first be from _Gallen_, _l.

3. _ of the qualities of Simples, _c.

14. _ Where, first of all he teacheth, that almost all those Medicines, which, to our sence, seeme to be _Simple_, are notwithstanding naturally _Compounded_, containing in themselves contrary qualities; and that is to say, a quality to expell, and to retaine; to incrassate, and attenuate; to rarifie, and to condense.

Neither are we to wonder at it, it being understood, that in every fore-said Medicine, there is a quality to heat, and to coole; to moisten and to dry.

And whatsoever Medicine it be, it hath in it, thick, and thinne parts; rare, and dense; soft, and hard.

And in the fifteenth Chapter following, in the same Book, he puts an example of the Broth of a Cock, which moves the Belly; and the flesh hath the vertue to bind.

He puts also the example of the _Aloes_, which if it be washt, looseth the Purgative vertue; or that which it hath, is but weake.

That this differing vertue, and faculty, is found in divers substances, or parts of simple Medicaments, _Gallen_ shewes in the first Booke of his simple Medicines, and the seventeenth Chapter, bringing the example of Milke; in which, three substances are found, and separated, that is to say, the substance of Cheese, which hath the vertue to stop the Fluxe of the Belly; and the substance of Whay, which is purging; and Butter, as it is expressed in the said _Gallen_, _Cap.

15. _ Also we finde in Wine which is in the Must, three substances, that is to say, earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner substance, which is the flower, and may be called the scum, or froath: and a third substance which we properly call Wine; And every one of these substances, containes in it selfe divers qualities, and vertues;

in the colour, in the smell, and in other Accidents.

_Aristotle_ in the fourth Book of the Meteors and the first Chapter, treating of Putrefaction, he found the same substances; and in the second Chapter next following, where he that is curious may read it.

And also by the Doctrine of _Galen_, and of _Aristotle_, divers substances are attributed to every of the mixt under one and the same forme and quantity; which is very conformable to reason, if we consider, that every Aliment be it never so simple, begets, and produceth in the liver, foure humours, not onely differing in temper, but also in substance; and begets more or lesse of that humour, according as that Aliment hath more or fewer parts corresponding to the substance of that humour, which is most ingendred.

And so in cold diseases, we give warme nourishment; and cold nourishment, in hot diseases.

From which evident examples, and many others, which we might produce to this purpose, we may gather, that, when we grind and stir the _Cacao_, the divers parts, which Nature hath given it, doe artificially, and intimately mixe themselves one with another; and so the unctuous, warme, and moist parts, mingled with the earthy (as we have said of the steele) represses, and leaves them not so binding, as they were before; but rather with a mediocritie, more inclining to the warme, and moist temper of the Aire, then to the cold and dry of the Earth; as it doth appeare when it is made fit to drinke; that you scarce give it two turnes with the Molinet when there riseth a fatty scumme: by which you may see how much it partaketh of the Oylie part.

From which doctrine I gather, that the Author of _Marchena_, was in an errour, who, writing of _Chocolate_, saith that it causeth Opilations, because _Cacao_ is astringent; as if that astriction were not corrected, by the intimate mixing of one part with another, by meanes of the grinding, as is said before.

Besides, it having so many ingredients, which are naturally hot, it must of necessity have this effect; that is to say, to open, attenuate, and not to binde; and, indeed, there is no cause of bringing more examples, or producing more reasons, for this truth, then that which we see in the _Cacao_ it self: which, if it be not stirred, and compounded, as aforesaid, to make the _Chocolate_.

But eating of it, as it is in the fruite, as the _Criollas_ eate it in the _Indies_, it doth notably obstruct, and cause stoppings; for no other cause but this, that the divers substances which it containes, are not perfectly mingled by the mastication onely, but require the artificiall mixture, which we have spoken of before.

Besides, our Adversary should have considered, and called to his memory, the first rudiments of Philosophy, that _à dicto secundum quid, ad dictum simpliciter, non valet consequentia_; As it is not enough to say, the Black-a-Moore is white, because his teeth are white; for he may be blacke, though he hath white teeth; and so it is not enough to say, that the _Cacao_ is stopping; and therefore the Confection, which is made of it, is also stopping.

The Tree, which beares this fruit, is so delicate; and the earth, where it growes, is so extreme hot, that to keepe the tree from being consumed by the Sun, they first plant other trees; and when they are growne up to a good height, then they plant the _Cacao_ trees; that when it first shewes it selfe above the ground, those trees which are already growne, may shelter it from the Sunne; and the fruit doth not grow naked, but ten or twelve of them are in one Gorde or Cod, which is of the bignesse of a greate black Figge, or bigger, and of the same forme, and colour.

There are two sorts of _Cacao_; the one is common, which is of a gray colour, inclining towards red; the other is broader and bigger, which they call _Patlaxte_, and this is white, and more drying; whereby it causeth watchfulnesse, and drives away sleepe, and therefore it is not so usefull, as the ordinary.

This shall suffice to be said of the _Cacao_.

And as for the rest of the ingredients, which make our _Chocolaticall_ Confection, there is notable variety; because some doe put into it black Pepper, and also _Tauasco_[A]; which is not proper, because it is so hot and dry; but onely for one, who hath a very cold Liver.

And of this opinion, was a certaine Doctor of the University of _Mexico_, of whom a Religious man of good credit told me, that he finding the ordinary round Pepper was not fit to bring his purpose about, and to the end, he might discover, whether the long red pepper were more proper, he made triall upon the liver of a Sheepe; and putting the ordinary pepper on one side, and the red pepper[B] on the other, after 24 hours, the part, where the ordinary pepper lay, was dryed up; and the other part continued moist, as if nothing had bin thrown upon it.

[A] A red roote like madder.

[B] Chile.

The Receipt of him who wrote at _Marchena_, is this: Of _Cacaos_, 700;

of white Sugar, one pound and a halfe; Cinnamon, 2. ounces; of long red pepper, 14. of Cloves, halfe an ounce: Three Cods of the Logwood or Campeche tree; or in steade of that, the weight of 2. Reals, or a shilling of Anniseeds; as much of _Agiote_, as will give the colour, which is about the quantity of a Hasell-nut.

Some put in Almons, kernells of Nuts, and Orenge-flower-water.

Concerning this Receipt I shall first say, This shooe will not fit every foote; but for those, who have diseases, or are inclining to be infirme, you may either adde, or take away, according to the necessity, and temperature of every one: and I hold it not amisse, that Sugar be put into it, when it is drunke, so that it be according to the quantity I shall hereafter set downe.

And sometimes they make Tablets of the Sugar, and the _Chocolate_ together: which they doe onely to please the Pallats, as the Dames of _Mexico_ doe use it; and they are there sold in shops, and are confected and eaten like other sweet-meats.

For the Cloves, which are put into this drinke, by the Author aforesaid, the best Writers of this Composition use them not;

peradventure upon this reason: that although they take away the ill savour of the mouth, they binde; as a learned Writer hath exprest in these verses: Foetorem emendat oris Cariophilia foedum;

Constringunt ventrem, primaque membra juvant.

_Cloves doe perfume a stincking Breath, and Bind The Belly; Hence the prime members comfort find.

_ And because they are binding (and hot and dry in the third degree) they must not be used, though they help the chiefe parts of Concoction, which are the Stomacke and the Liver, as appeares by the Verses before recited.

The Huskes or Cods of Logwood, or Campeche, are very good, and smell like Fennell; and every one puts in of these, because they are not very hot; though it excuse not the putting in of Annis-seed, as sayes the Author of this Receipt; for there is no _Chocolate_ without it, because it is good for many cold diseases, being hot in the third degree; and to temper the coldnesse of the _Cacao_; and that it may appeare, it helpes the indisposition of Cold parts, I will cite the Verses of one curious in this Art: Morbosus renes, vesicam, guttura, vulnam, Intestina, jecur, cumque lyene caput Confortat, variisque Anisum subdita morbis Membra: istud tantum vim leve semen habet.

_The Reyns, the Bladder, throat, & thing between-- Enatrailes and Liver, with the Head, and spleen And other Parts, by [C] it are comforted: So great a vertue's in that little seed.

_ [C] Annis.

The quantity of a Nut of the _Achiote_[D] is too little to colour the quantity made according to his Receipt; and therefore, he that makes it, may put in it, as much as he thinkes fit.

[D] Ta-asco.

Those, who adde Almons, and Nuts, doe not ill; because they give it more body and substance then _Maiz_ or _Paniso_[E], which others use;

and for my part, I should always put it into _Chocolate_, for Almonds (besides what I have said of them before) are moderately hot, and have a thinne juice; but you must not use new Almons, as a learned Author sayes in these Verses.

[E] A graine like Millet.

Dat modice calidum dulcisque Amigdala succum, Et tenuem; inducunt plurima damna nova.

_New Almonds yeild a Hot and slender juice, But bring new mischiefs by too often use.

_ And the small Nuts are not ill for our purpose; for they have almost the temper, which the Almons have; onely because they are dryer, they come nearer the temper of Choler; and doe therefore strengthen the Belly, and the Stomacke, being dryed: for so they must be used for the Confection; and they preserve the head from those vapours, which rise from the Belly: as it appeares by the said Author in these Verses.

Bilis Avellanam sequitur; sed roborat alvum Ventris, & a fumis liberat assa caput.

_Filberds breed Chollar, Th' Belly Fortifie, Benzoin the Head frees from Fumosity.

_ And therefore they are proper for such as are troubled with ventuosities, and _Hypochondriacall_ vapours, which offend the brain, and there cause such troublesome dreames, and sad imaginations.

Those who mixe _Maiz_ or _Paniso_ in the _Chocolate_ doe very ill;

because those graines doe beget a very melancholly humour: as the same Author expresseth in these Verses.

Crassa melancholicum præstant tibi Panica succum Siccant, si penas membra, gelantque foris.

_Grosse Eares of Corne have Cholorique juice (no doubt) Which dries, if taken inward; cooles without.

_ It is also apparantly windy; and those which mixe it in this _Confection_, doe it onely for their profit, by encreasing the quantity of the _Chocolate_; because every _Fanega_ or measure of [F] _Grani_ containing about a Bushell and a halfe, is sold for eight shillings, and they sell this _Confection_ for foure shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price of the _Chocolate_.

[F] Maiz, or Indian Wheat The _Cinamon_ is hot and dry in the third degree; it provokes Urine, and helps the Kidneys and Reynes of those who are troubled with cold diseases; and it is good for the eyes; and in effect, it is cordiall;

as appeares by the Author of these Verses.

Commoda & urinæ Cinnamomum, & renibus Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat.

(affert: _Cinnamon helps the Reines and Urine well, It cleares the Eyes, and Poison doth expell.

_ The _Achiote_ hath a piercing attenuating quality, as appeareth by the common practice of the Physitians in the _Indies_, experienced daily in the effects of it, who doe give it to their Patients, to cut, and attenuate the grosse humours, which doe cause shortnesse of breath, and stopping of urine; and so it may be used for any kind of Opilations; for we give it for the stoppings, which are in the breast, or in the Region of the belly, or any other part of the Body.

And concerning the long red Peper, there are foure sorts of it.

One is called _Chilchotes_: the other very little, which they call _Chilterpin_; and these two kinds, are very quicke and biting.

The other two are called _Tonalchiles_, and these are moderately hot; for they are eaten with bread, as they eate other fruits, & they are of a yellow colour; and they grow onely about the Townes, which are in, and adjoyning to the Lake of _Mexico_.

The other Pepper is called _Chilpaclagua_, which hath a broad huske, and this is not so biting as the first; nor so gentle as the last, and is that, which is usually put into the _Chocolate_.

There are also other ingredients, which are used in this _Confection_.

One called _Mechasuchil_; and another which they call _Vinecaxtli_, which in the _Spanish_ they call _Orejuelas_, which are sweet smelling Flowers, Aromaticall and hot.

And the _Mechasuchil_ hath a Purgative quality; for in the _Indies_ they make a purging portion of it.

In stead of this, in _Spaine_ they put into the _Confection_, powder of _Alexandria_, for opening the Belly.

I have spoken of all these Ingredients, that every one may make choise of those which please him best, or are most proper for infirmities.

_The second Point.

_ As concerning the second point, I say, as I have said before, that though it be true, that the _Cacao_ is mingled with all these Ingredients, which are hot; yet there is to be a greater quantity of _Cacao_, then of all the rest of the Ingredients, which serve to temper the coldnesse of the _Cacao_: Just as when we seek, of two Medicines of contrary qualities, to compound one, which shall be of a moderate temper: In the same manner doth result the same action and re-action of the cold parts of the _Cacao_, and of the hot parts of the other ingredients, which makes the _Chocolate_ of so moderate a quality, that it differs very little from a mediocrity; and when there is not put in any ordinary pepper, or Cloves, but onely a little Annisseed (as I shall shew hereafter) we may boldly say, that it is very temperate.

And this may be proved by reason, and experience: (supposing that which _Gallen_ sayes, to be true, that every mixt Medicine, warmeth the cold, and cooleth the hot; bringing the examples of Oyle of _Roses_.

) By experience, I say, that in the _Indies_ (as is the custom of that countrey) I comming in a heat to visite a sick person, and asking water to refresh me, they perswaded mee to take a Draught of _Chocolate_; which quencht my thirst: & in the morning (if I took it fasting) it did warme and comfort my stomack.

Now let us prove it by reason.

Wee have already proved, that all the parts of the _Cacao_ are not cold.

For we have made it appeare that the unctuous parts, which are many, be all hot, or temperate: then, though it be true, that the quantity of the _Cacao_ is greater than of all the rest of the ingredients, yet the cold parts are at the most, not halfe so many as the hot; and if for all this they should be more, yet by stirring, & mangling of the warme unctuous parts, they are much qualified.

And, on the other side, it being mixt with the other Ingredients, which are hot in the second and third degree, being the predominant quality, it must needs be brought to a mediocrity.

Like as two men, who shake hands, the one being hot, and the other cold, the one hand borrows heat, and the other is made colder; and in conclusion, neither hand retaines the cold, or heat it had before, but both of them remain more temperate.

So like-wise two men, who go to wrestle, at the first they are in their full vigour and strength; but after they have strugled a while, their force lessens by degrees, till at last they are both much weaker, than when they began to wrestle.

And _Aristotle_ was also of this opinion in his fourth Booke of the Nature of Beasts, _cap.

3. _ Where he sayes, that every Agent suffers with the patient; as that which cuts, is made dul by the thing it cuts; that which warmes, cooles it selfe; and that which thrusts, or forceth forward, is in some sort driven bake it selfe.

From whence I gather, that it is better to use _Chocolate_, after it hath beene made some time, a Moneth at the least.

I believe this time to be necessary, for breaking the contrary qualities of the severall Ingredients, and to bring the Drinke to a moderate temper.

For, as it alwayes falls out at the first, that every contrary will have its predominancy, and will worke his owne effects, Nature not liking well to be heated and cooled, at the same time.

And this is the cause why _Gallen_ in his twelfth Booke of _Method_, doth advise not to use _Philonium_, till after a yeare, or, at the least, six moneths;

because it is a composition made of _Opium_ (which is cold in the fourth degree) and of Pepper, and other Ingredients, which are hot in the third degree.

This Theorum, and Doctrine, is made good by the practise, which some have made, of whom I have asked, what _Chocolate_ did best agree with them?

and they have affirmed, that the best is that which hath beene made some moneths: and that the new doth hurt by loosening the Stomack; And, in my opinion, the reason of it is, that the unctuous or fat parts, are not altogether corrected, by the earthy parts of the _Cacao_.

And this I shall thus prove; for, as I shall declare hereafter, if you make the _Chocolate_ boyle, when you drinke it, the boyling of it divides that fat and oyly part; and that makes a relaxation in the Stomacke in the old _Chocolate_, as well as if it were new.

So that I conclude in this second point, that the _Chocolaticall Confection_ is not so cold as the _Cacao_, nor so hot as the rest of the Ingredients; but there results from the action and re-action of these Ingredients, a moderate temper which may be good, both for the cold and hot stomacks, being taken moderately, as shall be declared hereafter; and it having beene made a moneth at the least; as is already proved.

And so I know not why any many having made experience of this _Confection_ (which is composed, as it ought to be, for every particular) should speake ill of it.

Besides, where it is so much used, the most, if not all, as well in the _Indies_, as in _Spain_, finde, it agreeth well with them.

He of _Merchena_ had no ground in saying, that it did cause Opilations.

For, if it were so, the Liver being obstructed, it would extenuate its subject; and by experience, we see to the contrary, that it makes fat; the reason whereof I shall shew hereafter.

And this shall suffice for the second Point.