Extermination of the American Bison — Part III Chapter 3: The Smithsonian Expedition for Museum Specimens, The Hunt, continued
The death of these four cows brought our number of buffaloes up to eighteen, and made us think about the possibilities of getting thirty.
As we were proceeding to the Buffalo Buttes on the day after the "kill" to gather in the spoil, Mr. Brown and I taking charge of the wagon, Messrs. McNaney and Boyd went ahead in order to hunt.
When within about 5 miles of the Buttes we came unexpectedly upon our companions, down in a hollow, busily engaged in skinning another old cow, which they had discovered traveling across the bad grounds, waylaid, and killed.
We camped that night on our old ground at the Buffalo Buttes, and although we all desired to remain a day or two and hunt for more buffalo, the peculiar appearance of the sky in the northwest, and the condition of the atmosphere, warned us that a change of weather was imminent.
Accordingly, the following morning we decided without hesitation that it was best to get back to camp that day, and it soon proved very fortunate for us that we so decided.
Feeling that by reason of my work on the specimens I had been deprived of a fair share of the chase, I arranged for Mr. Boyd to accompany the wagon on the return trip, that I might hunt through the bad lands west of the Buffalo Buttes, which I felt must contain some buffalo.
Mr. Russell went northeast and Mr. McNaney accompanied me.
About 4 miles from our late camp we came suddenly upon a fine old solitary bull, feeding in a hollow between two high and precipitous ridges.
After a short but sharp chase I succeeded in getting a fair shot at him, and killed him with a ball which broke his left humerus and passed into his lungs.
He was the only large bull killed on the entire trip by a single shot.
He proved to be a very fine specimen, measuring 5 feet 6 inches in height at the shoulders.
The wagon was overtaken and called back to get the skin, and while it was coming I took a complete series of measurements and sketches of him as he lay.
Although we removed the skin very quickly, and lost no time in again starting the wagon to our permanent camp, the delay occasioned by the death of our twentieth buffalo,--which occurred on November 20, precisely two months from the date of our leaving Washington to collect twenty buffalo, it possible,--caused us all to be caught in a snow-storm, which burst upon us from the northwest.
The wagon had to be abandoned about 12 miles from camp in the bad lands.
Mr. Brown packed the bedding on one of the horses and rode the other, he and Boyd reaching camp about 9 o'clock that night in a blinding snow-storm.
Of coarse the skins in the wagon were treated with preservatives and covered up.
It proved to be over a week that the wagon and its load had to remain thus abandoned before it was possible to get to it and bring it to camp, and even then the task was one of great difficulty.
In this connection I can not refrain from recording the fact that the services rendered by Mr. W.
Harvey Brown on all such trying occasions as the above were invaluable.
He displayed the utmost zeal and intelligence, not only in the more agreeable kinds of work and sport incident to the hunt, but also in the disagreeable drudgery, such as team-driving and working on half-frozen specimens in bitter cold weather.
The storm which set in on the 20th soon developed into a regular blizzard.
A fierce and bitter cold wind swept down from the northwest, driving the snow before it in blinding gusts.
Had our camp been poorly sheltered we would have suffered, but at it was we were fairly comfortable.
Having thus completed our task (of getting twenty buffaloes), we were anxious to get out of that fearful country before we should get caught in serious difficulties with the weather, and it was arranged that Private C. S.
West should ride to Fort Keogh as soon as possible, with a request for transportation.
By the third day, November 23, the storm had abated sufficiently that Private West declared his willingness to start.
It was a little risky, but as he was to make only 10 miles the first day and stop at the =N=-bar camp on Sand Creek, it was thought safe to let him go.
He dressed himself warmly, took my revolver, in order not to be hampered with a rifle, and set out.
The next day was clear and fine, and we remarked it as an assurance of Mr. West's safety during his ride from Sand Creek to the =LU=-bar ranch, his second stopping-place.
The distance was about 25 miles, through bad lands all the way, and it was the only portion of the route which caused me anxiety for our courier's safety.
The snow on the levels was less than 6 inches deep, the most of it having been blown into drifts and hollows; but although the coulées were all filled level to the top, our courier was a man of experience and would know how to avoid them.
The 25th day of November was the most severe day of the storm, the mercury in our sheltered cañon sinking to -16 degrees.
We had hoped to kill at least five more buffaloes by the time Private West should arrive with the wagons; but when at the end of a week the storm had spent itself, the snow was so deep that hunting was totally impossible save in the vicinity of camp, where there was nothing to kill.
We expected the wagons by the 3d of December, but they did not come that day nor within the next three.
By the 6th the snow had melted off sufficiently that a buffalo hunt was once more possible, and Mr. McNaney and I decided to make a final trip to the Buffalo Buttes.
The state of the ground made it impossible for us to go there and return the same day, so we took a pack-horse and arranged to camp out.
When a little over half-way to our old rendezvous we came upon three buffaloes in the bad grounds, one of which was an enormous old bull, the next largest was an adult cow, and the third a two-year-old heifer.
Mr. McNaney promptly knocked down the old cow, while I devoted my attention to the bull; but she presently got up and made off unnoticed at the precise moment Mr. McNaney was absorbed in watching my efforts to bring down the old bull.
After a short chase my horse carried me alongside my buffalo, and as he turned toward me I gave him a shot through the shoulder, breaking the fore leg and bringing him promptly to the ground.
I then turned immediately to pursue the young cow, but by that time she had got on the farther side of a deep gully which was filled with snow, and by the time I got my horse safely across she had distanced me.
I
then rode back to the old bull.
When he saw me coming he got upon his feet and ran a short distance, but was easily overtaken.
He then stood at bay, and halting within 30 yards of him I enjoyed the rare opportunity of studying a live bull buffalo of the largest size on foot on his native heath.
I even made an outline sketch of him in my note-book.
Having studied his form and outlines as much as was really necessary, I gave him a final shot through the lungs, which soon ended his career.
This was a truly magnificent specimen in every respect.
He was a "stub-horn" bull, about eleven years old, much larger every way than any of the others we collected.
His height at the shoulder was 5 feet 8 inches perpendicular, or 2 inches more than the next largest of our collection.
His hair was in remarkably fine condition, being long, fine, thick, and well colored.
The hair in his frontlet is 16 inches in length, and the thick coat of shaggy, straw-colored tufts which covered his neck and shoulders measured 4 inches.
His girth behind the fore leg was 8 feet 4 inches, and his weight was estimated at 1,600 pounds.
[Illustration: TROPHIES OF THE HUNT.
Mounted by the author in the U. S.
National Museum.
Reproduced from the _Cosmopolitan Magazine_, by permission of the publishers.
] I was delighted with our remarkably good fortune in securing such a prize, for, owing to the rapidity with which the large buffaloes are being found and killed off these days, I had not hoped to capture a really old individual.
Nearly every adult bull we took carried old bullets in his body, and from this one we took four of various sizes that had been fired into him on various occasions.
One was found sticking fast in one of the lumbar vertebræ.
[79] [Note 79: This specimen is now the commanding figure of the group of buffalo which has recently been placed on exhibition in the Museum.
] After a chase of several miles Mr. McNaney finally overhauled his cow and killed her, which brought the number of buffaloes taken on the fall hunt up to twenty-two.
We spent the night at the Buffalo Buttes and returned to camp the next day.
Neither on that day nor the one following did the wagons arrive, and on the evening of the 8th we learned from the cowboys of the =N=-bar camp on Sand Creek that our courier, Private West, had not been seen or heard from since he left their camp on November 24, and evidently had got lost and frozen to death in the bad lands.
The next day we started out to search for Private West, or news of him, and spent the night with Messrs. Brodhurst and Andrews, at their camp on Sand Creek.
On the 10th, Mr. McNaney and I hunted through the bad lands over the course our courier should have taken, while Messrs. Russell and Brodhurst looked through the country around the head of the Little Dry.
When McNaney and I reached the =LU=-bar ranch that night we were greatly rejoiced at finding that West was alive, although badly frost-bitten, and in Fort Keogh.
It appears that instead of riding due east to the =LU=-bar ranch, he lost his way in the bad lands, where the buttes all look alike when covered with snow, and rode southwest.
It is at all times an easy matter for even a cowboy to get lost in Montana if the country is new to him, and when there is snow on the ground the difficulty of finding one's way is increased tenfold.
There is not only the danger of losing one's way, but the still greater danger of getting ingulfed in a deep coulée full of loose snow, which may easily cause both horse and rider to perish miserably.
Even the most experienced riders sometimes ride into coulées which are level full of snow and hidden from sight.
Private West's experience was a terrible one, and also a wonderful case of self-preservation.
It shows what a man with a cool head and plenty of grit can go through and live.
When he left us he wore two undershirts, a heavy blanket shirt, a soldier's blouse and overcoat, two pairs of drawers, a pair of soldier's woolen trousers, and a pair of overalls.
On his feet he wore three pairs of socks, a pair of _low shoes_ with canvas leggins, and he started with his feet tied up in burlaps.
His head and hands were also well protected.
He carried a 38-caliber revolver, but, by a great oversight, only six matches.
When he left the =N=-bar camp, instead of going due east toward the =LU=-bar ranch, he swung around and went southwest, clear around the head of the Little Dry, and finally struck the Porcupine south of our camp.
The first night out he made a fire with sage-brush, and kept it going all night.
The second night he also had a fire, but it took his last match to make it.
During the first three days he had no food, but on the fourth he shot a sage-cock with his revolver, and ate it raw.
This effort, however, cost him his last cartridge.
Through hard work and lack of food his pony presently gave out, and necessitated long and frequent stops for rest.
West's feet threatened to freeze, and he cut off the skirts of his overcoat to wrap them with, in place of the gunny sacking, that had been worn to rags.
Being afraid to go to sleep at night, he slept by snatches in the warmest part of the day, while resting his horse.
On the 5th day he began to despair of succor, although he still toiled southward through the bad lands toward the Yellowstone, where people lived.
On the envelopes which contained my letters he kept a diary of his wanderings, which could tell his story when the cowboys would find his body on the spring round-up.
On the afternoon of the sixth day he found a trail and followed it until nearly night, when he came to Cree's sheep ranch, and found the solitary ranchman at home.
The warm-hearted frontiersman gave the starving wanderers, man and horse, such a welcome as they stood in need of.
West solemnly declares that in twenty-four hours he ate a whole sheep.
After two or three days of rest and feeding both horse and rider were able to go on, and in course of time reached Fort Keogh.
Without the loss of a single day Colonel Gibson started three teams and an escort up to us, and notwithstanding his terrible experience, West had the pluck to accompany them as guide.
His arrival among us once more was like the dead coming to life again.
The train reached our camp on the 13th, and on the 15th we pulled out for Miles City, loaded to the wagon-bows with specimens, forage, and camp plunder.
From our camp down to the =HV= ranch, at the mouth of Sand Creek, the trail was in a terrible condition.
But, thanks to the skill and judgment of the train-master, Mr. Ed.
Haskins, and his two drivers, who also knew their business well, we got safely and in good time over the dangerous part of our road.
Whenever our own tired and overloaded team got stuck in the mud, or gave out, there was always a pair of mules ready to hitch on and help us out.
As a train-master, Mr. Haskins was a perfect model, skillful, pushing, good-tempered, and very obliging.
From the =HV= ranch to Miles City the trail was in fine condition, and we went in as rapidly as possible, fearing to be caught in the snow-storm which threatened us all the way in.
We reached Miles City on December 20, with our collection complete and in fine condition, and the next day a snow-storm set in which lasted until the 25th, and resulted in over a foot of snow.
The ice running in the Yellowstone stopped all the ferry-boats, and it was with good reason that we congratulated ourselves on the successful termination of our hunt at that particular time.
Without loss of time Mr. Brown and I packed our collection, which tilled twenty-one large cases, turned in our equipage at Fort Keogh, sold our horses, and started on our homeward journey.
In due course of time the collection reached the Museum in good condition, and a series of the best specimens it contains has already been mounted.
At this point it is proper to acknowledge our great indebtedness to the Secretary of War for the timely co-operation of the War Department, which rendered the expedition possible.
Our thanks are due to the officers who were successively in command at Fort Keogh during our work, Col. John D. Wilkins, Col. George M. Gibson, and Lieut.
Col. M. A.
Cochran, and their various staff officers; particularly Lieut.
C. B.
Thompson, quartermaster, and Lieut.
H.
K.
Bailey, adjutant.
It is due these officers to state that everything we asked for was cheerfully granted with a degree of promptness which contributed very greatly to the success of the hunt, and lightened its labors very materially.
I have already acknowledged our indebtedness to the officers of the Pennsylvania; the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul; and Northern Pacific railways for the courtesies so liberally extended in our emergency.
I
take pleasure in adding that all the officers and employés of the Northern Pacific Railway with whom we had any relations, particularly Mr. C. S.
Fee, general passenger and ticket agent, treated our party with the utmost kindness and liberality throughout the trip.
We are in like manner indebted to the officers of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul Railway for valuable privileges granted with the utmost cordiality.
Our thanks are also due to Dr. J.
C.
Merrill, and to Mr. Henry R. Phillips, of the Phillips Land and Cattle Company, on Little Dry Creek, for valuable information at a critical moment, and to the latter for hospitality and assistance in various ways, at times when both were keenly appreciated.
Counting the specimens taken in the spring, our total catch of buffalo amounted to twenty-five head, and constituted as complete and fine a series as could be wished for.
I am inclined to believe that in size and general quality of pelage the adult bull and cow selected and mounted for our Museum group are not to be surpassed, even if they are ever equaled, by others of their kind.
The different ages and sexes were thus represented in our collection: 10 old bulls, 1 young bull, 7 old cows, 4 young cows, 2 yearling calves, 1 three-months calf[80]; total, 25 specimens.
[Note 80: Caught alive, but died in captivity July 26, 1886, and now in the mounted group.
] Our total collection of specimens of _Bison americanus_, including everything taken, contained the following: 24 fresh skins, 1 head skin, 8 fresh skeletons, 8 dry skeletons, 51 dry skulls, 2 foetal young;
total, 94 specimens.
Our collection as a whole also included a fine series of skins and skeletons of antelope, deer of two species, coyotes, jack rabbits, sage grouse (of which we prepared twenty-four rough skeletons for the Department of Comparative Anatomy), sharp tailed grouse, and specimens of all the other species of birds and small mammals to be found in that region at that season.
From this _matériel_ we now have on exhibition besides the group of buffaloes, a family group of antelope, another of coyotes, and another of prairie dogs, all with natural surroundings.
