Book of Household Management — 011 - Recipes. Chapter 6. Part 4.

PHEASANT SOUP.

179. INGREDIENTS.

--2 pheasants, 1/4 lb.

of butter, 2 slices of ham, 2 large onions sliced, 1/2 head of celery, the crumb of two French rolls, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace, if liked; 3 quarts of stock No. 105. _Mode_.

--Cut up the pheasants, flour and braise them in the butter and ham till they are of a nice brown, but not burnt.

Put them in a stewpan, with the onions, celery, and seasoning, and simmer for 2 hours.

Strain the soup; pound the breasts with the crumb of the roll previously soaked, and the yolks of the eggs; put it to the soup, give one boil, and serve.

_Time_.

--2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 2s.

10d.

per quart, or, if made with fragments of gold game, 1s.

_Seasonable_ from October to February.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Note_.

--Fragments, pieces and bones of cold game, may be used to great advantage in this soup, and then 1 pheasant will suffice.

PORTABLE SOUP.

180. INGREDIENTS.

--2 knuckles of veal, 3 shins of beef, 1 large faggot of herbs, 2 bay-leaves, 2 heads of celery, 3 onions, 3 carrots, 2 blades of mace, 6 cloves, a teaspoonful of salt, sufficient water to cover all the ingredients.

_Mode_.

--Take the marrow from the bones; put all the ingredients in a stock-pot, and simmer slowly for 12 hours, or more, if the meat be not done to rags; strain it off, and put it in a very cool place; take off all the fat, reduce the liquor in a shallow pan, by setting it over a sharp fire, but be particular that it does not burn; boil it fast and uncovered for 8 hours, and keep it stirred.

Put it into a deep dish, and set it by for a day.

Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, place the dish in it, and keep it boiling; stir occasionally, and when the soup is thick and ropy, it is done.

Form it into little cakes by pouring a small quantity on to the bottom of cups or basins; when cold, turn them out on a flannel to dry.

Keep them from the air in tin canisters.

_Average cost_ of this quantity, 16s.

_Note_.

--Soup can be made in 5 minutes with this, by dissolving a small piece, about the size of a walnut, in a pint of warm water, and simmering for 2 minutes.

Vermicelli, macaroni, or other Italian pastes, may be added.

THE LAUREL or BAY.

--The leaves of this tree frequently enter into the recipes of cookery; but they ought not to be used without the greatest caution, and not at all unless the cook is perfectly aware of their effects.

It ought to be known, that there are two kinds of bay-trees,--the Classic laurel, whose leaves are comparatively harmless, and the Cherry-laurel, which is the one whose leaves are employed in cookery.

They have a kernel-like flavour, and are used in blanc-mange, puddings, custards &c. ; but when acted upon by water, they develop prussic acid, and, therefore, but a small number of the leaves should be used at a time.

RABBIT SOUP.

181. INGREDIENTS.

--2 large rabbits, or 3 small ones; a faggot of savoury herbs, 1/2 head of celery, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 blade of mace, salt and white pepper to taste, a little pounded mace, 1/2 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs boiled hard, the crumb of a French roll, nearly 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.

--Make the soup with the legs and shoulders of the rabbit, and keep the nice pieces for a dish or _entrée_.

Put them into warm water, and draw the blood; when quite clean, put them in a stewpan, with a faggot of herbs, and a teacupful, or rather more, of veal stock or water.

Simmer slowly till done through, and add the 3 quarts of water, and boil for an hour.

Take out the rabbet, pick the meat from the bones, covering it up to keep it white; put the bones back in the liquor, add the vegetables, and simmer for 2 hours; skim and strain, and let it cool.

Now pound the meat in a mortar, with the yolks of the eggs, and the crumb of the roll previously soaked; rub it through a tammy, and gradually add it to the strained liquor, and simmer for 15 minutes.

Mix

arrowroot or rice-flour with the cream (say 2 dessert-spoonfuls), and stir in the soup; bring it to a boil, and serve.

This soup must be very white, and instead of thickening it with arrowroot or rice-flour, vermicelli or pearl barley can be boiled in a little stock, and put in 5 minutes before serving.

_Time_.

--Nearly 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

REGENCY SOUP.

182. Ingredients.

--Any bones and remains of any cold game, such as of pheasants, partridges, &c. ; 2 carrots, 2 small onions, 1 head of celery, 1 turnip, 1/4 lb.

of pearl barley, the yolks of 3 eggs boiled hard, 1/4 pint of cream, salt to taste, 2 quarts of stock No. 105, or common stock, No. 106. _Mode_.

--Place the bones or remains of game in the stewpan, with the vegetables sliced; pour over the stock, and simmer for 2 hours; skim off all the fat, and strain it.

Wash the barley, and boil it in 2 or 3 waters before putting it to the soup; finish simmering in the soup, and when the barley is done, take out half, and pound the other half with the yolks of the eggs.

When you have finished pounding, rub it through a clean tammy, add the cream, and salt if necessary; give one boil, and serve very hot, putting in the barley that was taken out first.

_Time_.

--2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

per quart, if made with medium stock, or 6d.

per quart, with common stock.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

SOUP A LA REINE.

I.

183. INGREDIENTS.

--1 large fowl, 1 oz.

of sweet almonds, the crumb of 1 1/2 French roll, 1/2 pint of cream, salt to taste, 1 small lump of sugar, 2 quarts of good white veal stock, No. 107. _Mode_.

--Boil the fowl gently in the stock till quite tender, which will be in about an hour, or rather more; take out the fowl, pull the meat from the bones, and put it into a mortar with the almonds, and pound very fine.

When beaten enough, put the meat back in the stock, with the crumb of the rolls, and let it simmer for an hour; rub it through a tammy, add the sugar, 1/2 pint of cream that has boiled, and, if you prefer, cut the crust of the roll into small round pieces, and pour the soup over it, when you serve.

_Time_.

--2 hours, or rather more.

_Average cost_, 2s.

7d.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.

--All white soups should be warmed in a vessel placed in another of boiling water.

(_See_ BAIN MARIE, No. 87. ) II.

(Economical.

) 184. INGREDIENTS.

--Any remains of roast chickens, 1/2 teacupful of rice, salt and pepper to taste, 1 quart of stock No. 106. _Mode_.

--Take all the white meat and pound it with the rice, which has been slightly cooked, but not much.

When it is all well pounded, dilute with the stock, and pass through a sieve.

This soup should neither be too clear nor too thick.

_Time_.

--1 hour.

_Average cost_, 4d.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ all the year.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Note_.

--If stock is not at hand, put the chicken-bones in water, with an onion, carrot, a few sweet herbs, a blade of mace, pepper and salt, and stew for 3 hours.

STEW SOUP OF SALT MEAT.

185. INGREDIENTS.

--Any pieces of salt beef or pork, say 2 lbs.

; 4 carrots, 4 parsnips, 4 turnips, 4 potatoes, 1 cabbage, 2 oz.

of oatmeal or ground rice, seasoning of salt and pepper, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.

--Cut up the meat small, add the water, and let it simmer for 23/4 hours.

Now add the vegetables, cut in thin small slices; season, and boil for 1 hour.

Thicken with the oatmeal, and serve.

_Time_.

--2 hours.

_Average cost_, 3d.

per quart without the meat.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Note_.

--If rice is used instead of oatmeal, put it in with the vegetables.

STEW SOUP.

I.

186. INGREDIENTS.

--2 lbs.

of beef, 5 onions, 5 turnips, 3/4 lb.

of _rice_, a large bunch of parsley, a few sweet herbs, pepper and salt, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.

--Cut the beef up in small pieces, add the other ingredients, and boil gently for 21/2 hours.

Oatmeal or potatoes would be a great improvement.

_Time_.

-21/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 6d.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

II.

187. INGREDIENTS.

--1/2 lb.

of beef, mutton, or pork; 1/2 pint of split peas, 4 turnips, 8 potatoes, 2 onions, 2 oz.

of oatmeal or 3 oz.

of rice, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.

--Cut the meat in small pieces, as also the vegetables, and add them, with the peas, to the water.

Boil gently for 3 hours; thicken with the oatmeal, boil for another 1/4 hour, stirring all the time, and season with pepper and salt.

_Time_.

--3-1/4 hours.

_Average cost_, 4d.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.

--This soup may be made of the liquor in which tripe has been boiled, by adding vegetables, seasoning, rice, &c. TURKEY SOUP (a Seasonable Dish at Christmas).

188. INGREDIENTS.

--2 quarts of medium stock, No. 105, the remains of a cold roast turkey, 2 oz.

of rice-flour or arrowroot, salt and pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce or mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.

--Cut up the turkey in small pieces, and put it in the stock; let it simmer slowly until the bones are quite clean.

Take the bones out, and work the soup through a sieve; when cool, skim well.

Mix the rice-flour or arrowroot to a batter with a little of the soup; add it with the seasoning and sauce, or ketchup.

Give one boil, and serve.

_Time_.

--4 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ at Christmas.

_Sufficient_ for 8 persons.

_Note_.

--Instead of thickening this soup, vermicelli or macaroni may be served in it.

THE TURKEY.

--The common turkey is a native of North America, and was thence introduced to England, in the reign of Henry VIII.

According to Tusser's "Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry," about the year 1585 it begun to form a dish at our rural Christmas feasts.

"Beef, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best, Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well dress'd, Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear, As then in the country is counted good cheer."

It is one of the most difficult birds to rear, of any that we have; yet, in its wild state, is found in great abundance in the forests of Canada, where, it might have been imagined that the severity of the climate would be unfavourable to its ever becoming plentiful.

They are very fond of the seeds of nettles, and the seeds of the foxglove poison them.

TURTLE SOUP (founded on M. Ude's Recipe).

189. INGREDIENTS.

--A turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, 1 large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, 1 onion, 6 cloves, 4 blades of mace, 1/4 lb.

of fresh butter, 1 bottle of Madeira, 1 lump of sugar.

For the _Quenelles à Tortue_, 1 lb.

of veal, 1 lb.

of bread crumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped parsley, the juice of 2 lemons.

_Mode_.

--To make this soup with less difficulty, cut off the head of the turtle the preceding day.

In the morning open the turtle by leaning heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut this off all round.

Turn it upright on its end, that all the water, &c. may run out, when the flesh should be cut off along the spine, with the knife sloping towards the bones, for fear of touching the gall, which sometimes might escape the eye.

When all the flesh about the members is obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain.

Have ready, on the fire, a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; and when you perceive that they come easily off, take them out of the water, and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil the back and belly till the bones can be taken off, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be boiled again in the soup.

When these latter come off easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly, for fear they should stick together, and put them to cool.

Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this liquor must be used to moisten all the sauces.

All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be drawn down in the following manner:--Lay the slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according to the size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and over the whole the members.

Now moisten with the water in which you are boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly.

It may now be ascertained if it be thoroughly done by thrusting a knife into the fleshy part of the meat.

If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling.

Put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a turtle,--sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with 6 cloves.

Let the whole be thoroughly done.

With respect to the members, probe them, to see whether they are done, and if so, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed.

When the flesh is also completely done, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a very thin white _roux;_ for turtle soup must not be much thickened.

When the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour, moisten it with the liquor, keeping it over the fire till it boils.

Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then draw the stewpan on the side of the stove, to skim off the white scum, and all the fat and oil that rise to the surface of the sauce.

By this time all the softer parts will be sufficiently cold; when they must be cut to about the size of one or two inches square, and thrown into the soup, which must now be left to simmer gently.

When done, skim off all the fat and froth.

Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock,--sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion cut in four pieces, with a few blades of mace.

Put these in a stewpan, with about 1/4 lb.

of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a slow fire till quite melted, when pour in 1 bottle of good Madeira, adding a small bit of sugar, and let it boil gently for 1 hour.

When done, rub it through a tammy, and add it to the soup.

Let this boil, till no white scum rises; then take with a skimmer all the bits of turtle out of the sauce, and put them in a clean stewpan: when you have all out, pour the soup over the bits of turtle, through a tammy, and proceed as follows:-- QUENELLES À TORTUE.

--Make some _quenelles à tortue_, which being substitutes for eggs, do not require to be very delicate.

Take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal, about 1 lb.

, scrape off all the meat, without leaving any sinews or fat, and soak in milk about the same quantity of crumbs of bread.

When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the whole very fine; then thicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs, and the yolk of another.

Next try this _farce_ or stuffing in boiling-hot water, to ascertain its consistency: if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg.

When the _farce_ is perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley.

Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg;

poach it in salt and boiling water, and when very hard, drain on a sieve, and put it into the turtle.

Before you send up, squeeze the juice of 2 or 3 lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour that into the soup.

THE FINS may be served as a _plat d'entrée_ with a little turtle sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle _au bain marie_, and serve the members entire, with a _matelote_ sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks' combs, _quenelles_, &c. When either lemon-juice or cayenne pepper has been introduced, no boiling must take place.

_Note_.

--It is necessary to observe, that the turtle prepared a day before it is used, is generally preferable, the flavour being more uniform.

Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve the green fat (be cautious not to study a very brown colour,--the natural green of the fish is preferred by every epicure and true connoisseur) in a separate stewpan, and likewise when the turtle is entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time.

You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for many reasons: first, it will be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will break all the rest into rags.

If you warm in a _bain marie_, the turtle will always retain the same taste; but if you boil it often, it becomes strong, and loses the delicacy of its flavour.

THE COST OF TURTLE SOUP.

--This is the most expensive soup brought to table.

It is sold by the quart,--one guinea being the standard price for that quantity.

The price of live turtle ranges from 8d.

to 2s.

per lb.

, according to supply and demand.

When live turtle is dear, many cooks use the tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and preserved by being put in hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent over to England.

The cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lbs.

, is about £2, and for a small one, containing the green fat, 7s.

6d.

From these about 6 quarts of good soup may be made.

[Illustration: THE TURTLE.

] THE GREEN TURTLE.

--This reptile is found in large numbers on the coasts of all the islands and continents within the tropics, in both the old and new worlds.

Their length is often five feet and upwards, and they range in weight from 50 to 500 or 600 lbs.

As turtles find a constant supply of food on the coasts which they frequent, they are not of a quarrelsome disposition, as the submarine meadows in which they pasture, yield plenty for them all.

Like other species of amphibia, too, they have the power of living many months without food; so that they live harmlessly and peaceably together, notwithstanding that they seem to have no common bond of association, but merely assemble in the same places as if entirely by accident.

England is mostly supplied with them from the West Indies, whence they are brought alive and in tolerable health.

The green turtle is highly prized on account of the delicious quality of its flesh, the fat of the upper and lower shields of the animal being esteemed the richest and most delicate parts.

The soup, however, is apt to disagree with weak stomachs.

As an article of luxury, the turtle has only come into fashion within the last 100 years, and some hundreds of tureens of turtle soup are served annually at the lord mayor's dinner in Guildhall.

A GOOD FAMILY SOUP.

190. INGREDIENTS.

--Remains of a cold tongue, 2 lbs.

of shin of beef, any cold pieces of meat or beef-bones, 2 turnips, 2 carrots, 2 onions, 1 parsnip, 1 head of celery, 4 quarts of water, 1/2 teacupful of rice;

salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.

--Put all the ingredients in a stewpan, and simmer gently for 4 hours, or until all the goodness is drawn from the meat.

Strain off the soup, and let it stand to get cold.

The kernels and soft parts of the tongue must be saved.

When the soup is wanted for use, skim off all the fat, put in the kernels and soft parts of the tongue, slice in a small quantity of fresh carrot, turnip, and onion; stew till the vegetables are tender, and serve with toasted bread.

_Time_.

--5 hours.

__Average cost_,3d.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.

HODGE-PODGE.

191. INGREDIENTS.

--2 lbs.

of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 1 pint of table-beer, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 1 head of celery; pepper and salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour.

_Mode_.

--Put the meat, beer, and water in a stewpan; simmer for a few minutes, and skim carefully.

Add the vegetables and seasoning; stew gently till the meat is tender.

Thicken with the butter and flour, and serve with turnips and carrots, or spinach and celery.

_Time_.

--3 hours, or rather more.

_Average cost_, 3d.

per quart.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ for 12 persons.

TABLE BEER.

--This is nothing more than a weak ale, and is not made so much with a view to strength, as to transparency of colour and an agreeable bitterness of taste.

It is, or ought to be, manufactured by the London professional brewers, from the best pale malt, or amber and malt.

Six barrels are usually drawn from one quarter of malt, with which are mixed 4 or 5 lbs.

of hops.

As a beverage, it is agreeable when fresh; but it is not adapted to keep long.

FISH SOUPS.