Book of Household Management — 016 - Recipes. Chapter 8. Part 3.

279. INGREDIENTS.

--4 middling-sized mackerel, a nice delicate forcemeat (_see_ Forcemeats), 3 oz.

of butter; pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Clean the fish, take out the roes, and fill up with forcemeat, and sew up the slit.

Flour, and put them in a dish, heads and tails alternately, with the roes; and, between each layer, put some little pieces of butter, and pepper and salt.

Bake for 1/2 an hour, and either serve with plain melted butter or a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.

_Time_.

--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s.

10d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Note_.

--Baked mackerel may be dressed in the same way as baked herrings (_see_ No. 268), and may also be stewed in wine.

WEIGHT OF THE MACKEREL.

--The greatest weight of this fish seldom exceeds 2 lbs.

, whilst their ordinary length runs between 14 and 20 inches.

They die almost immediately after they are taken from their element, and, for a short time, exhibit a phosphoric light.

BOILED MACKEREL.

280. INGREDIENTS.

--1/4 lb.

of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.

--Cleanse the inside of the fish thoroughly, and lay it in the kettle with sufficient water to cover it with salt as above; bring it gradually to boil, skim well, and simmer gently till done; dish them on a hot napkin, heads and tails alternately, and garnish with fennel.

Fennel sauce and plain melted butter are the usual accompaniments to boiled mackerel; but caper or anchovy sauce is sometimes served with it.

(_See_ Coloured Plate, F. ) _Time_.

--After the water boils, 10 minutes; for large mackerel, allow more time.

_Average cost_, from 4d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

_Note_.

--When variety is desired, fillet the mackerel, boil it, and pour over parsley and butter; send some of this, besides, in a tureen.

BROILED MACKEREL.

281. INGREDIENTS.

--Pepper and salt to taste, a small quantity of oil.

_Mode_.

--Mackerel should never be washed when intended to be broiled, but merely wiped very clean and dry, after taking out the gills and insides.

Open the back, and put in a little pepper, salt, and oil; broil it over a clear fire, turn it over on both sides, and also on the back.

When sufficiently cooked, the flesh can be detached from the bone, which will be in about 15 minutes for a small mackerel.

Chop a little parsley, work it up in the butter, with pepper and salt to taste, and a squeeze of lemon-juice, and put it in the back.

Serve before the butter is quite melted, with a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce in a tureen.

_Time_.

--Small mackerel 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, from 4d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

[Illustration: THE MACKEREL.

] THE MACKEREL.

--This is not only one of the most elegantly-formed, but one of the most beautifully-coloured fishes, when taken out of the sea, that we have.

Death, in some degree, impairs the vivid splendour of its colours; but it does not entirely obliterate them.

It visits the shores of Great Britain in countless shoals, appearing about March, off the Land's End; in the bays of Devonshire, about April; off Brighton in the beginning of May; and on the coast of Suffolk about the beginning of June.

In the Orkneys they are seen till August; but the greatest fishery is on the west coasts of England.

TO CHOOSE MACKEREL.

--In choosing this fish, purchasers should, to a great extent, be regulated by the brightness of its appearance.

If it have a transparent, silvery hue, the flesh is good; but if it be red about the head, it is stale.

FILLETS OF MACKEREL.

282. INGREDIENTS.

--2 large mackerel, 1 oz.

butter, 1 small bunch of chopped herbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of medium stock, No. 105, 3 tablespoonfuls of béchamel (_see_ Sauces); salt, cayenne, and lemon-juice to taste.

_Mode_.

--Clean the fish, and fillet it; scald the herbs, chop them fine, and put them with the butter and stock into a stewpan.

Lay in the mackerel, and simmer very gently for 10 minutes; take them out, and put them on a hot dish.

Dredge in a little flour, add the other ingredients, give one boil, and pour it over the mackerel.

_Time_.

--20 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s.

6d.

_Seasonable_ from April to July.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Note_.

--Fillets of mackerel may be covered with egg and bread crumbs, and fried of a nice brown.

Serve with _maître d'hôtel_ sauce and plain melted butter.

THE VORACITY OF THE MACKEREL.

--The voracity of this fish is very great, and, from their immense numbers, they are bold in attacking objects of which they might, otherwise, be expected to have a wholesome dread.

Pontoppidan relates an anecdote of a sailor belonging to a ship lying in one of the harbours on the coast of Norway, who, having gone into the sea to bathe, was suddenly missed by his companions; in the course of a few minutes, however, he was seen on the surface, with great numbers of mackerel clinging to him by their mouths.

His comrades hastened in a boat to his assistance; but when they had struck the fishes from him and got him up, they found he was so severely bitten, that he shortly afterward expired.

PICKLED MACKEREL.

283. INGREDIENTS.

--12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 4 mackerel.

_Mode_.

--Boil the mackerel as in the recipe No. 282, and lay them in a dish; take half the liquor they were boiled in; add as much vinegar, peppercorns, and bay-leaves; boil for 10 minutes, and when cold, pour over the fish.

_Time_.

--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

6d.

MACKEREL GARUM.

--This brine, so greatly esteemed by the ancients, was manufactured from various kinds of fishes.

When mackerel was employed, a few of them were placed in a small vase, with a large quantity of salt, which was well stirred, and then left to settle for some hours.

On the following day, this was put into an earthen pot, which was uncovered, and placed in a situation to get the rays of the sun.

At the end of two or three months, it was hermetically sealed, after having had added to it a quantity of old wine, equal to one third of the mixture.

GREY MULLET.

284. INGREDIENTS.

--1/4 lb.

of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.

--If the fish be very large, it should be laid in cold water, and gradually brought to a boil; if small, put it in boiling water, salted in the above proportion.

Serve with anchovy sauce and plain melted butter.

_Time_.

--According to size, 1/4 to 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 8d.

per lb.

_Seasonable_ from July to October.

[Illustration: THE GREY MULLET.

] THE GREY MULLET.

--This is quite a different fish from the red mullet, is abundant on the sandy coasts of Great Britain, and ascends rivers for miles.

On the south coast it is very plentiful, and is considered a fine fish.

It improves more than any other salt-water fish when kept in ponds.

RED MULLET.

285. INGREDIENTS.

--Oiled paper, thickening of butter and flour, 1/2 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 glass of sherry; cayenne and salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Clean the fish, take out the gills, but leave the inside, fold in oiled paper, and bake them gently.

When done, take the liquor that flows from the fish, add a thickening of butter kneaded with flour; put in the other ingredients, and let it boil for 2 minutes.

Serve the sauce in a tureen, and the fish, either with or without the paper cases.

_Time_.

--About 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

each.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but more plentiful in summer.

_Note_.

--Red mullet may be broiled, and should be folded in oiled paper, the same as in the preceding recipe, and seasoned with pepper and salt.

They may be served without sauce; but if any is required, use melted _butter_, Italian or anchovy sauce.

They should never be plain boiled.

[Illustration: THE STRIPED RED MULLET.

] THE STRIPED RED MULLET.

--This fish was very highly esteemed by the ancients, especially by the Romans, who gave the most extravagant prices for it.

Those of 2 lbs.

weight were valued at about £15 each; those of 4 lbs.

at £60, and, in the reign of Tiberius, three of them were sold for £209. To witness the changing loveliness of their colour during their dying agonies, was one of the principal reasons that such a high price was paid for one of these fishes.

It frequents our Cornish and Sussex coasts, and is in high request, the flesh being firm, white, and well flavoured.

FRIED OYSTERS.

286. INGREDIENTS.

--3 dozen oysters, 2 oz.

butter, 1 tablespoonful of ketchup, a little chopped lemon-peel, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

_Mode_.

--Boil the oysters for 1 minute in their own liquor, and drain them; fry them with the butter, ketchup, lemon-peel, and parsley; lay them on a dish, and garnish with fried potatoes, toasted sippets, and parsley.

This is a delicious delicacy, and is a favourite Italian dish.

_Time_.

--5 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s.

9d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

[Illustration: THE EDIBLE OYSTER.

] THE EDIBLE OYSTER:--This shell-fish is almost universally distributed near the shores of seas in all latitudes, and they especially abound on the coasts of France and Britain.

The coasts most celebrated, in England, for them, are those of Essex and Suffolk.

Here they are dredged up by means of a net with an iron scraper at the mouth, that is dragged by a rope from a boat over the beds.

As soon as taken from their native beds, they are stored in pits, formed for the purpose, furnished with sluices, through which, at the spring tides, the water is suffered to flow.

This water, being stagnant, soon becomes green in warm weather; and, in a few days afterwards, the oysters acquire the same tinge, which increases their value in the market.

They do not, however, attain their perfection and become fit for sale till the end of six or eight weeks.

Oysters are not considered proper for the table till they are about a year and a half old;

so that the brood of one spring are not to be taken for sale, till, at least, the September twelvemonth afterwards.

SCALLOPED OYSTERS.

I.

287. INGREDIENTS.

--Oysters, say 1 pint, 1 oz.

butter, flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream; pepper and salt to taste; bread crumbs, oiled butter.

_Mode_.

--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard them, and strain the liquor free from grit.

Put 1 oz.

of batter into a stewpan; when melted, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the stock, cream, and strained liquor, and give one boil.

Put in the oysters and seasoning; let them gradually heat through, but not boil.

Have ready the scallop-shells buttered; lay in the oysters, and as much of the liquid as they will hold; cover them over with bread crumbs, over which drop a little oiled butter.

Brown them in the oven, or before the fire, and serve quickly, and very hot.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 1/4 hour.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s.

6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

II.

Prepare the oysters as in the preceding recipe, and put them in a scallop-shell or saucer, and between each layer sprinkle over a few bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg; place small pieces of butter over, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven.

Put sufficient bread crumbs on the top to make a smooth surface, as the oysters should not be seen.

_Time_.

--About 1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 3s.

2d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

STEWED OYSTERS.

288. INGREDIENTS.

--1 pint of oysters, 1 oz.

of butter, flour, 1/3 pint of cream; cayenne and salt to taste; 1 blade of pounded mace.

_Mode_.

--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, take them out, beard them, and strain the liquor; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up, add the oyster-liquor and mace, and stir it over a sharp fire with a wooden spoon; when it comes to a boil, add the cream, oysters, and seasoning.

Let all simmer for 1 or 2 minutes, but not longer, or the oysters would harden.

Serve on a hot dish, and garnish with croutons, or toasted sippets of bread.

A small piece of lemon-peel boiled with the oyster-liquor, and taken out before the cream is added, will be found an improvement.

_Time_.

--Altogether 15 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s.

6d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

THE OYSTER AND THE SCALLOP.

--The oyster is described as a bivalve shell-fish, having the valves generally unequal.

The hinge is without teeth, but furnished with a somewhat oval cavity, and mostly with lateral transverse grooves.

From a similarity in the structure of the hinge, oysters and scallops have been classified as one tribe; but they differ very essentially both in their external appearance and their habits.

Oysters adhere to rocks, or, as in two or three species, to roots of trees on the shore; while the scallops are always detached, and usually lurk in the sand.

OYSTER PATTIES (an Entree).

289. INGREDIENTS.

--2 dozen oysters, 2 oz.

butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, a little lemon-juice, 1 blade of pounded mace; cayenne to taste.

_Mode_.

--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut each one into 3 pieces.

Put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in sufficient flour to dry it up; add the strained oyster-liquor with the other ingredients; put in the oysters, and let them heat gradually, but not boil fast.

Make the patty-cases as directed for lobster patties, No. 277: fill with the oyster mixture, and replace the covers.

_Time_.

--2 minutes for the oysters to simmer in the mixture.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the patty-cases, 1s.

1d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

THE OYSTER FISHERY.

--The oyster fishery in Britain is esteemed of so much importance, that it is regulated by a Court of Admiralty.

In the month of May, the fishermen are allowed to take the oysters, in order to separate the spawn from the cultch, the latter of which is thrown in again, to preserve the bed for the future.

After this month, it is felony to carry away the cultch, and otherwise punishable to take any oyster, between the shells of which, when closed, a shilling will rattle.

TO KEEP OYSTERS.

290. Put them in a tub, and cover them with salt and water.

Let them remain for 12 hours, when they are to be taken out, and allowed to stand for another 12 hours without water.

If left without water every alternate 12 hours, they will be much better than if constantly kept in it.

Never put the same water twice to them.

OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER.

291. INGREDIENTS.

--1/2 pint of oysters, 2 eggs, 1/2 pint of milk, sufficient flour to make the batter; pepper and salt to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg; hot lard.

_Mode_.

--Scald the oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and lay them on a cloth, to drain thoroughly.

Break the eggs into a basin, mix the flour with them, add the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, and put the oysters in the batter.

Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan, put in the oysters, one at a time; when done, take them up with a sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin.

Fried oysters are frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few bread crumbs should be added to the flour.

_Time_.

--5 or 6 minutes.

_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s.

10d.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

_Sufficient_ for 3 persons.

EXCELLENCE OF THE ENGLISH OYSTER.

--The French assert that the English oysters, which are esteemed the best in Europe, were originally procured from Cancalle Bay, near St. Malo; but they assign no proof for this.

It is a fact, however, that the oysters eaten in ancient Rome were nourished in the channel which then parted the Isle of Thanet from England, and which has since been filled up, and converted into meadows.

BOILED PERCH.

292. INGREDIENTS.

--1/4 lb.

of salt to each gallon of water.

_Mode_.

--Scale the fish, take out the gills and clean it thoroughly; lay it in boiling water, salted as above, and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

If the fish is very large, longer time must be allowed.

Garnish with parsley, and serve with plain melted butter, or Dutch sauce.

Perch do not preserve so good a flavour when stewed as when dressed in any other way.

_Time_.

--Middling-sized perch, 1/4 hour.

_Seasonable_ from September to November.

_Note_.

--Tench may be boiled the same way, and served with the same sauces.

[Illustration: THE PERCH.

] THE PERCH.

--This is one of the best, as it is one of the most common, of our fresh-water fishes, and is found in nearly all the lakes and rivers in Britain and Ireland, as well as through the whole of Europe within the temperate zone.

It is extremely voracious, and it has the peculiarity of being gregarious, which is contrary to the nature of all fresh-water fishes of prey.

The best season to angle for it is from the beginning of May to the middle of July.

Large numbers of this fish are bred in the Hampton Court and Bushy Park ponds, all of which are well supplied with running water and with plenty of food; yet they rarely attain a large size.

In the Regent's Park they are also very numerous; but are seldom heavier than three quarters of a pound.

FRIED PERCH.

293. INGREDIENTS.

--Egg and bread crumbs, hot lard.

_Mode_.

--Scale and clean the fish, brush it over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs.

Have ready some boiling lard; put the fish in, and fry a nice brown.

Serve with plain melted butter or anchovy sauce.

_Time_.

--10 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from September to November.

_Note_.

--Fry tench in the same way.

PERCH STEWED WITH WINE.

294. INGREDIENTS.

--Equal quantities of stock No. 105 and sherry, 1 bay-leaf, 1 clove of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, 2 cloves, salt to taste; thickening of butter and flour, pepper, grated nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoonful of anchovy sauce.

_Mode_.

--Scale the fish and take out the gills, and clean them thoroughly; lay them in a stewpan with sufficient stock and sherry just to cover them.

Put in the bay-leaf, garlic, parsley, cloves, and salt, and simmer till tender.

When done, take out the fish, strain the liquor, add a thickening of butter and flour, the pepper, nutmeg, and the anchovy sauce, and stir it over the fire until somewhat reduced, when pour over the fish, and serve.

_Time_.

--About 20 minutes.

_Seasonable_ from September to November.

BOILED PIKE.

295. INGREDIENTS.

--1/4 lb.

of salt to each gallon of water; a little vinegar.

_Mode_.

--Scale and clean the pike, and fasten the tail in its mouth by means of a skewer.

Lay it in cold water, and when it boils, throw in the salt and vinegar.

The time for boiling depends, of course, on the size of the fish; but a middling-sized pike will take about 1/2 an hour.

Serve with Dutch or anchovy sauce, and plain melted butter.

_Time_.

--According to size, 1/2 to 1 hour.

--_Average cost_.

Seldom bought.

_Seasonable_ from September to March.

[Illustration: THE PIKE.

] THE PIKE.

--This fish is, on account of its voracity, termed the freshwater shark, and is abundant in most of the European lakes, especially those of the northern parts.

It grows to an immense size, some attaining to the measure of eight feet, in Lapland and Russia.

The smaller lakes, of this country and Ireland, vary in the kinds of fish they produce; some affording trout, others pike; and so on.

Where these happen to be together, however, the trout soon becomes extinct.

"Within a short distance of Castlebar," says a writer on sports, "there is a small bog-lake called Derreens.

Ten years ago it was celebrated for its numerous well-sized trouts.