Book of Household Management — 017 - Recipes. Chapter 8. Part 4.
310. INGREDIENTS.
--1 bream.
Seasoning to taste of salt, pepper, and cayenne; 1/4 lb.
of butter.
_Mode_.
--Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipe away all moisture with a nice dry cloth.
Season it inside and out with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish.
Place the butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than 1/2 an hour.
To stuff this fish before baking, will be found a great improvement.
_Time_.
--Rather more than 1/2 an hour.
_Seasonable_ in summer.
[Illustration: THE SEA-BREAM.
] _Note_.
--This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served with a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine.
THE SEA-BREAM.
--This is an abundant fish in Cornwall, and it is frequently found in the fish-market of Hastings during the summer months, but it is not in much esteem.
MR.
YARRELL'S RECIPE.
"When thoroughly cleansed, the fish should be wiped dry, but none of the scales should be taken off.
In this state it should be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin cracks, flour it a little to keep the outer case entire.
When on table, the whole skin and scales turn off without difficulty, and the muscle beneath, saturated in its own natural juices, which the outside covering has retained, will be of good flavour."
TO DRESS SHAD.
311. INGREDIENTS.
--1 shad, oil, pepper, and salt.
_Mode_.
--Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make two or three incisions across the back.
Season it with pepper and salt, and let it remain in oil for 1/2 hour.
Broil it on both sides over a clear fire, and serve with caper sauce.
This fish is much esteemed by the French, and by them is considered excellent.
_Time_.
--Nearly 1 hour.
_Average cost_.
--Seldom bought.
_Seasonable_ from April to June.
[Illustration: THE SHAD.
] THE SHAD.
--This is a salt-water fish, but is held in little esteem.
It enters our rivers to spawn in May, and great numbers of them are taken opposite the Isle of Dogs, in the Thames.
POTTED SHRIMPS.
312. INGREDIENTS.
--1 pint of shelled shrimps, 1/4 lb.
of fresh butter, 1 blade of pounded mace, cayenne to taste; when liked, a little nutmeg.
_Mode_.
--Have ready a pint of picked shrimps, and put them, with the other ingredients, into a stewpan; let them heat gradually in the butter, but do not let it boil.
Pour into small pots, and when cold, cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air.
_Time_.
--1/4 hour to soak in the butter.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s.
3d.
BUTTERED PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.
313. INGREDIENTS.
--1 pint of picked prawns or shrimps, 3/4 pint of stock No. 104, thickening of butter and flour; salt, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste.
_Mode_.
--Pick the prawns or shrimps, and put them in a stewpan with the stock; add a thickening of butter and flour; season, and simmer gently for 3 minutes.
Serve on a dish garnished with fried bread or toasted sippets.
Cream sauce may be substituted for the gravy.
_Time_.
--3 minutes.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 1s.
4d.
[Illustration: THE SHRIMP.
] THE SHRIMP.
--This shell-fish is smaller than the prawn, and is greatly relished in London as a delicacy.
It inhabits most of the sandy shores of Europe, and the Isle of Wight is especially famous for them.
BOILED SKATE.
314. INGREDIENTS.
--1/4 lb.
of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.
--Cleanse and skin the skate, lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient water to cover it, salted in the above proportion.
Let it simmer very gently till done; then dish it on a hot napkin, and serve with shrimp, lobster, or caper sauce.
_Time_.
--According to size, from 1/2 to 1 hour.
_Average cost_, 4d.
per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
CRIMPED SKATE.
315. INGREDIENTS.
--1/8 lb.
of salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.
--Clean, skin, and cut the fish into slices, which roll and tie round with string.
Have ready some water highly salted, put in the fish, and boil till it is done.
Drain well, remove the string, dish on a hot napkin, and serve with the same sauces as above.
Skate should never be eaten out of season, as it is liable to produce diarrhoea and other diseases.
It may be dished without a napkin, and the sauce poured over.
_Time_.
--About 20 minutes.
_Average cost_, 4d.
per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
TO CHOOSE SKATE.
--This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth, and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance.
When crimped, it should not be kept longer than a day or two, as all kinds of crimped fish soon become sour.
[Illustration: THORNBACK SKATE.
] THE SKATE.
--This is one of the ray tribe, and is extremely abundant and cheap in the fishing towns of England.
The flesh is white, thick, and nourishing; but, we suppose, from its being so plentiful, it is esteemed less than it ought to be on account of its nutritive properties, and the ease with which it is digested.
It is much improved by crimping; in which state it is usually sold in London.
The THORNBACK differs from the true skate by having large spines in its back, of which the other is destitute.
It is taken in great abundance during the spring and summer months, but its flesh is not so good as it is in November.
It is, in regard to quality, inferior to that of the true skate.
SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE (a la Francaise) 316. INGREDIENTS.
--2 or 3 slices of skate, 1/2 pint of vinegar, 2 oz.
of salt, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient water to cover the fish.
_Mode_.
--Put in a fish-kettle all the above ingredients, and simmer the skate in them till tender.
When it is done, skin it neatly, and pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling.
Drain it, put it on a hot dish, pour over it caper sauce, and send some of the latter to table in a tureen.
_Time_.
--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, 4d.
per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
_Note_.
--Skate may also be served with onion sauce, or parsley and butter.
SMALL SKATE FRIED.
317. INGREDIENTS.
--Skate, sufficient vinegar to cover them, salt and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, hot dripping.
_Mode_.
--Cleanse the skate, lay them in a dish, with sufficient vinegar to cover them; add the salt, pepper, onion, parsley, and lemon-juice, and let the fish remain in this pickle for 1-1/2 hour.
Then drain them well, flour them, and fry of a nice brown, in hot dripping.
They may be served either with or without sauce.
Skate is not good if dressed too fresh, unless it is crimped; it should, therefore, be kept for a day, but not long enough to produce a disagreeable smell.
_Time_.
--10 minutes.
_Average cost_, 4d.
per lb.
_Seasonable_ from August to April.
OTHER SPECIES OF SKATE.
--Besides the true skate, there are several other species found in our seas.
These are known as the _white_ skate, the long-nosed skate, and the Homelyn ray, which are of inferior quality, though often crimped, and sold for true skate.
TO BAKE SMELTS.
318. INGREDIENTS.
--12 smelts, bread crumbs, 1/4 lb.
of fresh butter, 2 blades of pounded mace; salt and cayenne to taste.
_Mode_.
--Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat baking-dish.
Cover them with fine bread crumbs, and place little pieces of butter all over them.
Season and bake for 15 minutes.
Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon-juice, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon.
_Time_.
--1/4 hour.
_Average cost_, 2s.
per dozen.
_Seasonable_ from October to May.
_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.
TO CHOOSE SMELTS.
--When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, and when alive, their backs are of a dark brown shade, which, after death, fades to a light fawn.
They ought to have a refreshing fragrance, resembling that of a cucumber.
THE ODOUR OF THE SMELT.
--This peculiarity in the smelt has been compared, by some, to the fragrance of a cucumber, and by others, to that of a violet.
It is a very elegant fish, and formerly abounded in the Thames.
The _Atharine_, or sand smelt, is sometimes sold for the true one; but it is an inferior fish, being drier in the quality of its flesh.
On the south coast of England, where the true smelt is rare, it is plentiful.
TO FRY SMELTS.
319. INGREDIENTS.
--Egg and bread crumbs, a little flour; boiling lard.
_Mode_.
--Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is necessary to clean them.
Dry them in a cloth, lightly flour, dip them in egg, and sprinkle over with very fine bread crumbs, and put them into boiling lard.
Fry of a nice pale brown, and be careful not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be spoiled.
Dry them before the fire on a drainer, and servo with plain melted butter.
This fish is often used as a garnishing.
_Time_.
--5 minutes.
_Average cost_, 2s.
per dozen.
_Seasonable_ from October to May.
[Illustration: THE SMELT.
] THE SMELT.
--This is a delicate little fish, and is in high esteem.
Mr. Yarrell asserts that the true smelt is entirety confined to the western and eastern coasts of Britain.
It very rarely ventures far from the shore, and is plentiful in November, December, and January.
BAKED SOLES.
320. INGREDIENTS.
--2 soles, 1/4 lb.
of butter, egg, and bread crumbs, minced parsley, 1 glass of sherry, lemon-juice; cayenne and salt to taste.
_Mode_.
--Clean, skin, and well wash the fish, and dry them thoroughly in a cloth.
Brush them over with egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs mixed with a little minced parsley, lay them in a large flat baking-dish, white side uppermost; or if it will not hold the two soles, they may each be laid on a dish by itself; but they must not be put one on the top of the other.
Melt the butter, and pour it over the whole, and bake for 20 minutes.
Take a portion of the gravy that flows from the fish, add the wine, lemon-juice, and seasoning, give it one boil, skim, pour it _under_ the fish, and serve.
_Time_.
--20 minutes.
_Average cost_, 1s.
to 2s.
per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
TO CHOOSE SOLES.
--This fish should be both thick and firm.
If the skin is difficult to be taken off, and the flesh looks grey, it is good.
[Illustration: THE SOLE.
] THE SOLE.
--This ranks next to the turbot in point of excellence among our flat fish.
It is abundant on the British coasts, but those of the western shores are much superior in size to those taken on the northern.
The finest are caught in Torbay, and frequently weigh 8 or 10 lbs.
per pair.
Its flesh being firm, white, and delicate, is greatly esteemed.
BOILED SOLES.
321. INGREDIENTS.
--1/4 lb.
salt to each gallon of water.
_Mode_.
--Cleanse and wash the fish carefully, cut off the fins, but do not skin it.
Lay it in a fish-kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it, salted in the above proportion.
Let it gradually come to a boil, and keep it simmering for a few minutes, according to the size of the fish.
Dish it on a hot napkin after well draining it, and garnish with parsley and cut lemon.
Shrimp, or lobster sauce, and plain melted butter, are usually sent to table with this dish.
_Time_.
--After the water boils, 7 minutes for a middling-sized sole.
_Average cost_, 1s.
to 2s.
per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_,--1 middling-sized sole for 2 persons.
SOLE OR COD PIE.
322. INGREDIENTS.
--The remains of cold boiled sole or cod, seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 1 dozen oysters to each lb.
of fish, 3 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 1 teacupful of cream thickened with flour, puff paste.
_Mode_.
--Clear the fish from the bones, lay it in a pie-dish, and between each layer put a few oysters and a little seasoning; add the stock, and, when liked, a small quantity of butter; cover with puff paste, and bake for 1/2 hour.
Boil the cream with sufficient flour to thicken it; pour in the pie, and serve.
_Time_.
--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 10d.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.
SOLES WITH CREAM SAUCE.
323. INGREDIENTS.
--2 soles; salt, cayenne, and pounded mace to taste;
the juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and water, 1/2 pint of cream.
_Mode_.
--Skin, wash, and fillet the soles, and divide each fillet in 2 pieces; lay them in cold salt and water, which bring gradually to a boil.
When the water boils, take out the fish, lay it in a delicately clean stewpan, and cover with the cream.
Add the seasoning, simmer very gently for ten minutes, and, just before serving, put in the lemon-juice.
The fillets may be rolled, and secured by means of a skewer; but this is not so economical a way of dressing them, as double the quantity of cream is required.
_Time_.
--10 minutes in the cream.
_Average cost_, from 1s.
to 2s.
per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
This will be found a most delicate and delicious dish.
THE SOLE A FAVOURITE WITH THE ANCIENT GREEKS.
--This fish was much sought after by the ancient Greeks on account of its light and nourishing qualities.
The brill, the flounder, the diamond and Dutch plaice, which, with the sole, were known under the general name of _passeres_, were all equally esteemed, and had generally the same qualities attributed to them.
FILLETED SOLES A L'ITALIENNE.
324. INGREDIENTS.
--2 soles; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste;
egg and bread crumbs, butter, the juice of 1 lemon.
_Mode_.
--Skin, and carefully wash the soles, separate the meat from the bone, and divide each fillet in two pieces.
Brush them over with white of egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and seasoning, and put them in a baking-dish.
Place small pieces of butter over the whole, and bake for 1/2 hour.
When they are nearly done, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and serve on a dish, with Italian sauce (see Sauces) poured over.
_Time_.
--1/2 hour.
_Average cost_, from 1s.
to 2s.
per pair.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 6 persons.
WHITING may be dressed in the same manner, and will be found very delicious.
THE FLAVOUR OF THE SOLE.
--This, as a matter of course, greatly depends on the nature of the ground and bait upon which the animal feeds.
Its natural food are small crabs and shell-fish.
Its colour also depends on the colour of the ground where it feeds; for if this be white, then the sole is called the white, or lemon sole; but if the bottom be muddy, then it is called the black sole.
Small-sized soles, caught in shallow water on the coasts, are the best in flavour.
FRICASSEED SOLES.
325. INGREDIENTS.
--2 middling-sized soles, 1 small one, 1/2 teaspoonful of chopped lemon-peel, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little grated bread; salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste; 1 egg, 2 oz.
butter, 1/2 pint of good gravy, 2 tablespoonfuls of port wine, cayenne and lemon-juice to taste.
_Mode_.
--Fry the soles of a nice brown, as directed in recipe No. 327, and drain them well from fat.
Take all the meat from the small sole, chop it fine, and mix with it the lemon-peel, parsley, bread, and seasoning; work altogether, with the yolk of an egg and the butter; make this into small balls, and fry them.
Thicken the gravy with a dessert-spoonful of flour, add the port wine, cayenne, and lemon-juice;
lay in the 2 soles and balls; let them simmer gently for 6 minutes;
serve hot, and garnish with cut lemon.
_Time_.
--10 minutes to fry the soles.
_Average cost_ for this quantity, 3s.
_Seasonable_ at any time.
_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.
HOW SOLES ARE CAUGHT.
--The instrument usually employed is a trawl net, which is shaped like a pocket, of from sixty to eighty feet long, and open at the mouth from thirty-two to forty feet, and three deep.
This is dragged along the ground by the vessel, and on the art of the fisherman in its employment, in a great measure depends the quality of the fish he catches.
If, for example, he drags the net too quickly, all that are caught are swept rapidly to the end of the net, where they are smothered, and sometimes destroyed.
A medium has to be observed, in order that as few as possible escape being caught in the net, and as many as possible preserved alive in it.
FRIED FILLETED SOLES.
326. Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste.
Skin and wash the fish, and raise the meat carefully from the bones, and divide it into nice handsome pieces.
The more usual way is to roll the fillets, after dividing each one in two pieces, and either bind them round with twine, or run a small skewer through them.
Brush over with egg, and cover with bread crumbs; fry them as directed in the foregoing recipe, and garnish with fried parsley and cut lemon.
When a pretty dish is desired, this is by far the most elegant mode of dressing soles, as they look much better than when fried whole.
(_See_ Coloured Plate A. ) Instead of rolling the fillets, they may be cut into square pieces, and arranged in the shape of a pyramid on the dish.
_Time_.
