Book of Household Management — 023 - Recipes. Chapter 10. Part 4.

ITALIAN SAUCE (Brown).

453. INGREDIENTS.

--A few chopped mushrooms and shalots, 1/2 pint of stock, No. 105, 1/2 glass of Madeira, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

_Mode_.

--Put the stock into a stewpan with the mushrooms, shalots, and Madeira, and stew gently for 1/4 hour, then add the remaining ingredients, and let them just boil.

When the sauce is done enough, put it in another stewpan, and warm it in a _bain marie_.

(_See_ No. 430. ) The mushrooms should not be chopped long before they are wanted, as they will then become black.

_Time_.

--1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a small dish.

ITALIAN SAUCE (White).

454. INGREDIENTS.

--1/2 pint of white stock, No. 107; 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped shalots, 1 slice of ham, minced very fine; 1/4 pint of Béchamel, No. 367; salt to taste, a few drops of garlic vinegar, 1/2 teaspoonful of pounded sugar, a squeeze of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.

--Put the shalots and mushrooms into a stewpan with the stock and ham, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour, when add the Béchamel.

Let it just boil up, and then strain it through a tammy; season with the above ingredients, and serve very hot.

If this sauce should not have retained a nice white colour, a little cream may be added.

_Time_.

--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 10d.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized dish.

_Note_.

--To preserve the colour of the mushrooms after pickling, throw them into water to which a little lemon-juice has been added.

TO PICKLE LEMONS WITH THE PEEL ON.

455. INGREDIENTS.

--6 lemons, 2 quarts of boiling water; to each quart of vinegar allow 1/2 oz.

of cloves, 1/2 oz.

of white pepper, 1 oz.

of bruised ginger, 1/4 oz.

of mace and chilies, 1 oz.

of mustard-seed, 1/2 stick of sliced horseradish, a few cloves of garlic.

_Mode_.

--Put the lemons into a brine that will bear an egg; let them remain in it 6 days, stirring them every day; have ready 2 quarts of boiling water, put in the lemons, and allow them to boil for 1/4 hour;

take them out, and let them lie in a cloth until perfectly dry and cold.

Boil up sufficient vinegar to cover the lemons, with all the above ingredients, allowing the same proportion as stated to each quart of vinegar.

Pack the lemons in a jar, pour over the vinegar, &c. boiling hot, and tie down with a bladder.

They will be fit for use in about 12 months, or rather sooner.

_Seasonable_.

--This should be made from November to April.

THE LEMON.

--In the earlier ages of the world, the lemon does not appear to have been at all known, and the Romans only became acquainted with it at a very late period, and then only used it to keep moths from their garments.

Its acidity would seem to have been unpleasant to them; and in Pliny's time, at the commencement of the Christian era, this fruit was hardly accepted, otherwise than as an excellent antidote against the effects of poison.

Many anecdotes have been related concerning the anti-venomous properties of the lemon; Athenaeus, a Latin writer, telling us, that on one occasion, two men felt no effects from the bites of dangerous serpents, because they had previously eaten of this fruit.

TO PICKLE LEMONS WITHOUT THE PEEL.

456. INGREDIENTS.

--6 lemons, 1 lb.

of fine salt; to each quart of vinegar, the same ingredients as No. 455. _Mode_.

--Peel the lemons, slit each one down 3 times, so as not to divide them, and rub the salt well into the divisions; place them in a pan, where they must remain for a week, turning them every other day;

then put them in a Dutch oven before a clear fire until the salt has become perfectly dry; then arrange them in a jar.

Pour over sufficient boiling vinegar to cover them, to which have been added the ingredients mentioned in the foregoing recipe; tie down closely, and in about 9 months they will be fit for use.

_Seasonable_.

--The best time to make this is from November to April.

_Note_.

--After this pickle has been made from 4 to 5 months, the liquor may be strained and bottled, and will be found an excellent lemon ketchup.

LEMON-JUICE.

--Citric acid is the principal component part of lemon-juice, which, in addition to the agreeableness of its flavour, is also particularly cooling and grateful.

It is likewise an antiscorbutic; and this quality enhances its value.

In order to combat the fatal effects of scurvy amongst the crews of ships at sea, a regular allowance of lemon-juice is served out to the men; and by this practice, the disease has almost entirely disappeared.

By putting the juice into bottles, and pouring on the top sufficient oil to cover it, it may be preserved for a considerable time.

Italy and Turkey export great quantities of it in this manner.

LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS.

457. INGREDIENTS.

--1 small lemon, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 380. _Mode_.

--Cut the lemon into very thin slices, and these again into very small dice.

Have ready 3/4 pint of melted butter, made by recipe No. 380; put in the lemon; let it just simmer, but not boil, and pour it over the fowls.

_Time_.

--1 minute to simmer.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of large fowls.

LEMON WHITE SAUCE, FOR FOWLS, FRICASSEES, &c. 458. INGREDIENTS.

--3/4 pint of cream, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole white pepper, 1 sprig of lemon thyme, 3 oz.

of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 teacupful of white stock; salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Put the cream into a very clean saucepan (a lined one is best), with the lemon-peel, pepper, and thyme, and let these infuse for 1/2 hour, when simmer gently for a few minutes, or until there is a nice flavour of lemon.

Strain it, and add a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions; stir this well in, and put in the lemon-juice at the moment of serving; mix the stock with the cream, and add a little salt.

This sauce should not boil after the cream and stock are mixed together.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

6d.

_Sufficient_, this quantity, for a pair of large boiled fowls.

_Note_.

--Where the expense of the cream is objected to, milk may be substituted for it.

In this case, an additional dessertspoonful, or rather more, of flour must be added.

[Illustration: LEMON THYME.

] LEMON THYME.

--Two or three tufts of this species of thyme, _Thymus citriodorus_, usually find a place in the herb compartment of the kitchen-garden.

It is a trailing evergreen, is of smaller growth than the common kind (_see_ No. 166), and is remarkable for its smell, which closely resembles that of the rind of a lemon.

Hence its distinctive name.

It is used for some particular dishes, in which the fragrance of the lemon is desired to slightly predominate.

LEAMINGTON SAUCE (an Excellent Sauce for Flavouring Gravies, Hashes, Soups, &c. ).

_(Author's Recipe.

)_ 459. INGREDIENTS.

--Walnuts.

To each quart of walnut-juice allow 3 quarts of vinegar, 1 pint of Indian soy, 1 oz.

of cayenne, 2 oz.

of shalots, 3/4 oz.

of garlic, 1/2 pint of port wine.

_Mode_.

--Be very particular in choosing the walnuts as soon as they appear in the market; for they are more easily bruised before they become hard and shelled.

Pound them in a mortar to a pulp, strew some salt over them, and let them remain thus for two or three days, occasionally stirring and moving them about.

Press out the juice, and to _each quart_ of walnut-liquor allow the above proportion of vinegar, soy, cayenne, shalots, garlic, and port wine.

Pound each ingredient separately in a mortar, then mix them well together, and store away for use in small bottles.

The corks should be well sealed.

_Seasonable_.

--This sauce should be made as soon as walnuts are obtainable, from the beginning to the middle of July.

LEMON BRANDY.

460. INGREDIENTS.

--1 pint of brandy, the rind of two small lemons, 2 oz.

of loaf-sugar, 1/4 pint of water.

_Mode_.

--Peel the lemons rather thin, taking care to have none of the white pith.

Put the rinds into a bottle with the brandy, and let them infuse for 24 hours, when they should be strained.

Now boil the sugar with the water for a few minutes, skim it, and, when cold, add it to the brandy.

A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring for boiled custards.

LEMON RIND OR PEEL.

--This contains an essential oil of a very high flavour and fragrance, and is consequently esteemed both a wholesome and agreeable stomachic.

It is used, as will be seen by many recipes in this book, as an ingredient for flavouring a number of various dishes.

Under the name of CANDIED LEMON-PEEL, it is cleared of the pulp and preserved by sugar, when it becomes an excellent sweetmeat.

By the ancient medical philosopher Galen, and others, it may be added, that dried lemon-peel was considered as one of the best digestives, and recommended to weak and delicate persons.

LIAISON OF EGGS FOR THICKENING SAUCES.

461. INGREDIENTS.

--The yolks of 3 eggs, 8 tablespoonfuls of milk or cream.

_Mode_.

--Beat up the yolks of the eggs, to which add the milk, and strain the whole through a hair-sieve.

When the liaison is being added to the sauce it is intended to thicken, care must be exercised to keep stirring it during the whole time, or, otherwise, the eggs will curdle.

It should only just simmer, but not boil.

LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE FOR POULTRY.

462. INGREDIENTS.

--The liver of a fowl, one lemon, salt to taste, 1/2 pint of melted butter.

No. 376. _Mode_.

--Wash the liver, and let it boil for a few minutes; peel the lemon very thin, remove the white part and pips, and cut it into very small dice; mince the liver and a small quantity of the lemon rind very fine; add these ingredients to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter;

season with a little salt, put in the cut lemon, heat it gradually, but do not allow it to boil, lest the butter should oil.

_Time_.

--1 minute to simmer.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a pair of small fowls.

LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE FOR POULTRY.

463. INGREDIENTS.

--The liver of a fowl, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376. _Mode_.

--Wash and score the liver, boil it for a few minutes, and mince it very fine; blanch or scald a small bunch of parsley, of which there should be sufficient when chopped to fill a tablespoon; add this, with the minced liver, to 1/2 pint of smoothly-made melted butter; let it just boil; when serve.

_Time_.

--1 minute to simmer.

_Sufficient_ for a pair of small fowls.

LOBSTER SAUCE, to serve with Turbot, Salmon, Brill, &c. (_Very Good_.

) 464. INGREDIENTS.

--1 middling-sized hen lobster, 3/4 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, 1/2 oz.

of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, a little pounded mace when liked, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.

--Choose a hen lobster, as this is indispensable, in order to render this sauce as good as it ought to be.

Pick the meat from the shells, and cut it into small square pieces; put the spawn, which will be found under the tail of the lobster, into a mortar with 1/2 oz.

of butter, and pound it quite smooth; rub it through a hair-sieve, and cover up till wanted.

Make 3/4 pint of melted butter by recipe No. 376;

put in all the ingredients except the lobster-meat, and well mix the sauce before the lobster is added to it, as it should retain its square form, and not come to table shredded and ragged.

Put in the meat, let it get thoroughly hot, but do not allow it to boil, as the colour would immediately be spoiled; for it should be remembered that this sauce should always have a bright red appearance.

If it is intended to be served with turbot or brill, a little of the spawn (dried and rubbed through a sieve without butter) should be saved to garnish with; but as the goodness, flavour, and appearance of the sauce so much depend on having a proper quantity of spawn, the less used for garnishing the better.

_Time_.

--1 minute to simmer.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a small turbot, a brill, or salmon for 6 persons.

_Note_.

--Melted butter made with milk, No. 380, will be found to answer very well for lobster sauce, as by employing it a nice white colour will be obtained.

Less quantity than the above may be made by using a very small lobster, to which add only 1/2 pint of melted butter, and season as above.

Where economy is desired, the cream may be dispensed with, and the remains of a cold lobster left from table, may, with a little care, be converted into a very good sauce.

MAITRE D'HOTEL BUTTER, for putting into Broiled Fish just before it is sent to Table.

465. INGREDIENTS.

--1/4 lb.

of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1 large lemon.

_Mode_.

--Work the above ingredients well together, and let them be thoroughly mixed with a wooden spoon.

If this is used as a sauce, it may be poured either under or over the meat or fish it is intended to be served with.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 5d.

Note.

--4 tablespoonfuls of Béchamel, No. 367, 2 do.

of white stock, No. 107, with 2 oz.

of the above maître d'hôtel butter stirred into it, and just allowed to simmer for 1 minute, will be found an excellent hot maître d'hôtel sauce.

THE MAÎTRE D'HÔTEL.

--The house-steward of England is synonymous with the maître d'hôtel of France; and, in ancient times, amongst the Latins, he was called procurator, or major-domo.

In Rome, the slaves, after they had procured the various articles necessary for the repasts of the day, would return to the spacious kitchen laden with meat, game, sea-fish, vegetables, fruit, &c. Each one would then lay his basket at the feet of the major-domo, who would examine its contents and register them on his tablets, placing in the pantry contiguous to the dining-room, those of the provisions which need no preparation, and consigning the others to the more immediate care of the cooks.

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT), to serve with Calf's Head, Boiled Eels, and different Fish.

466. INGREDIENTS.

--1 slice of minced ham, a few poultry-trimmings, 2 shalots, 1 clove of garlic, 1 bay-leaf, 3/4 pint of water, 2 oz.

of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley; salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste; the juice of 1/2 large lemon, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded sugar.

_Mode_.

--Put at the bottom of a stewpan the minced ham, and over it the poultry-trimmings (if these are not at hand, veal should be substituted), with the shalots, garlic, and bay-leaf.

Pour in the water, and let the whole simmer gently for 1 hour, or until the liquor is reduced to a full 1/2 pint.

Then strain this gravy, put it in another saucepan, make a thickening of butter and flour in the above proportions, and stir it to the gravy over a nice clear fire, until it is perfectly smooth and rather thick, care being taken that the butter does not float on the surface.

Skim well, add the remaining ingredients, let the sauce gradually heat, but do not allow it to boil.

If this sauce is intended for an entrée, it is necessary to make it of a sufficient thickness, so that it may adhere to what it is meant to cover.

_Time_.

--1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 1s.

2d.

per pint.

_Sufficient_ for re-warming the remains of 1/2 calf's head, or a small dish of cold flaked turbot, cod, &c. MAIGRE MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE (HOT).

(Made without Meat.

) 467. INGREDIENTS.

--1/2 pint of melted butter, No. 376; 1 heaped tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, the juice of 1/2 large lemon; when liked, 2 minced shalots.

_Mode_.

--Make 1/2 pint of melted butter, by recipe No. 376; stir in the above ingredients, and let them just boil; when it is ready to serve.

_Time_.

--1 minute to simmer.

_Average cost_, 9d.

per pint.

MAYONNAISE, a Sauce or Salad-Dressing for cold Chicken, Meat, and other cold Dishes.

468. INGREDIENTS.

--The yolks of 2 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and white pepper to taste, 1 tablespoonful of white stock, No. 107, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

_Mode_.

--Put the yolks of the eggs into a basin, with a seasoning of pepper and salt; have ready the above quantities of oil and vinegar, in separate vessels; add them _very gradually_ to the eggs; continue stirring and rubbing the mixture with a wooden spoon, as herein consists the secret of having a nice smooth sauce.

It cannot be stirred too frequently, and it should be made in a very cool place, or, if ice is at hand, it should be mixed over it.

When the vinegar and oil are well incorporated with the eggs, add the stock and cream, stirring all the time, and it will then be ready for use.

For a fish Mayonnaise, this sauce may be coloured with lobster-spawn, pounded; and for poultry or meat, where variety is desired, a little parsley-juice may be used to add to its appearance.

Cucumber, Tarragon, or any other flavoured vinegar, may be substituted for plain, where they are liked.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a small salad.

_Note_.

--In mixing the oil and vinegar with the eggs, put in first a few drops of oil, and then a few drops of vinegar, never adding a large quantity of either at one time.

By this means, you can be more certain of the sauce not curdling.

Patience and practice, let us add, are two essentials for making this sauce good.

MINT SAUCE, to serve with Roast Lamb.

469. INGREDIENTS.

--4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2 dessertspoonfuls of pounded white sugar, 1/4 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.

--Wash the mint, which should be young and fresh-gathered, free from grit; pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and put them into a tureen; add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till the former is dissolved.

This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hours before wanted for table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with the flavour of the mint.

By many persons, the above proportion of sugar would not be considered sufficient; but as tastes vary, we have given the quantity which we have found to suit the general palate.

_Average cost_, 3d.

_Sufficient_ to serve with a middling-sized joint of lamb.

_Note_.

--Where green mint is scarce and not obtainable, mint vinegar may be substituted for it, and will be found very acceptable in early spring.

[Illustration: MINT.

] MINT.

--The common mint cultivated in our gardens is known as the _Mentha viridis_, and is employed in different culinary processes, being sometimes boiled with certain dishes, and afterwards withdrawn.

It has an agreeable aromatic flavour, and forms an ingredient in soups, and sometimes is used in spring salads.

It is valuable as a stomachic and antispasmodic; on which account it is generally served at table with pea-soup.

Several of its species grow wild in low situations in the country.

MINT VINEGAR.

470. INGREDIENTS.

--Vinegar, mint.

_Mode_.

--Procure some nice fresh mint, pick the leaves from the stalks, and fill a bottle or jar with them.

Add vinegar to them until the bottle is full; _cover closely_ to exclude the air, and let it infuse for a fortnight.

Then strain the liquor, and put it into small bottles for use, of which the corks should be sealed.

_Seasonable_.

--This should be made in June, July, or August.

MIXED PICKLE.

(_Very Good_.

) 471. INGREDIENTS.

--To each gallon of vinegar allow 1/4 lb.

of bruised ginger, 1/4 lb.

of mustard, 1/4 lb.

of salt, 2 oz.

of mustard-seed, 1-1/2 oz.

of turmeric, 1 oz.

of ground black pepper, 1/4 oz.

of cayenne, cauliflowers, onions, celery, sliced cucumbers, gherkins, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums.

_Mode_.

--Have a large jar, with a tightly-fitting lid, in which put as much vinegar as required, reserving a little to mix the various powders to a smooth paste.

Put into a basin the mustard, turmeric, pepper, and cayenne; mix them with vinegar, and stir well until no lumps remain; add all the ingredients to the vinegar, and mix well.

Keep this liquor in a warm place, and thoroughly stir every morning for a month with a wooden spoon, when it will be ready for the different vegetables to be added to it.

As these come into season, have them gathered on a dry day, and, after merely wiping them with a cloth, to free them from moisture, put them into the pickle.

The cauliflowers, it may be said, must be divided into small bunches.

Put all these into the pickle raw, and at the end of the season, when there have been added as many of the vegetables as could be procured, store it away in jars, and tie over with bladder.

As none of the ingredients are boiled, this pickle will not be fit to eat till 12 months have elapsed.

Whilst the pickle is being made, keep a wooden spoon tied to the jar; and its contents, it may be repeated, must be stirred every morning.

_Seasonable_.

--Make the pickle-liquor in May or June, as the season arrives for the various vegetables to be picked.

MUSHROOM KETCHUP.

472. INGREDIENTS.

--To each peck of mushrooms 1/2 lb.

of salt; to each quart of mushroom-liquor 1/4 oz.

of cayenne, 1/2 oz.

of allspice, 1/2 oz.

of ginger, 2 blades of pounded mace.

_Mode_.

--Choose full-grown mushroom-flaps, and take care they are perfectly _fresh-gathered_ when the weather is tolerably dry; for, if they are picked during very heavy rain, the ketchup from which they are made is liable to get musty, and will not keep long.

Put a layer of them in a deep pan, sprinkle salt over them, and then another layer of mushrooms, and so on alternately.

Let them remain for a few hours, when break them up with the hand; put them in a nice cool place for 3 days, occasionally stirring and mashing them well, to extract from them as much juice as possible.

Now measure the quantity of liquor without straining, and to each quart allow the above proportion of spices, &c. Put all into a stone jar, cover it up very closely, put it in a saucepan of boiling water, set it over the fire, and let it boil for 3 hours.

Have ready a nice clean stewpan; turn into it the contents of the jar, and let the whole simmer very gently for 1/2 hour; pour it into a jug, where it should stand in a cool place till the next day; then pour it off into another jug, and strain it into very dry clean bottles, and do not squeeze the mushrooms.

To each pint of ketchup add a few drops of brandy.

Be careful not to shake the contents, but leave all the sediment behind in the jug; cork well, and either seal or rosin the cork, so as perfectly to exclude the air.

When a very clear bright ketchup is wanted, the liquor must be strained through a very fine hair-sieve, or flannel bag, _after_ it has been very gently poured off; if the operation is not successful, it must be repeated until you have quite a clear liquor.

It should be examined occasionally, and if it is spoiling, should be reboiled with a few peppercorns.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of September to the middle of October, when this ketchup should be made.

_Note_.

--This flavouring ingredient, if genuine and well prepared, is one of the most useful store sauces to the experienced cook, and no trouble should be spared in its preparation.

Double ketchup is made by reducing the liquor to half the quantity; for example, 1 quart must be boiled down to 1 pint.

This goes farther than ordinary ketchup, as so little is required to flavour a good quantity of gravy.

The sediment may also be bottled for immediate use, and will be found to answer for flavouring thick soups or gravies.

HOW TO DISTINGUISH MUSHROOMS FROM TOADSTOOLS.

--The cultivated mushroom, known as _Agaricus campestris_, may be distinguished from other poisonous kinds of fungi by its having pink or flesh-coloured gills, or under-side, and by its invariably having an agreeable smell, which the toadstool has not.

When young, mushrooms are like a small round button, both the stalk and head being white.

As they grow larger, they expand their heads by degrees into a flat form, the gills underneath being at first of a pale flesh-colour, but becoming, as they stand longer, dark brown or blackish.

Nearly all the poisonous kinds are brown, and have in general a rank and putrid smell.

Edible mushrooms are found in closely-fed pastures, but seldom grow in woods, where most of the poisonous sorts are to be found.

TO DRY MUSHROOMS.

473. _Mode_.

--Wipe them clean, take away the brown part, and peel off the skin; lay them on sheets of paper to dry, in a cool oven, when they will shrivel considerably.