Book of Household Management — 028 - Recipes. Chapter 13. Part 1.

598. INGREDIENTS.

--About 2 lbs.

of cold roast beef, 2 small onions, 1 large carrot or two small ones, 1 turnip, a small bunch of savoury herbs, salt and pepper to taste, 4 tablespoonfuls of gravy, 3 tablespoonfuls of ale, crust or mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.

--Cut the beef in slices, allowing a small amount of fat to each slice; place a layer of this in the bottom of a pie-dish, with a portion of the onions, carrots, and turnips, which must be sliced; mince the herbs, strew them over the meat, and season with pepper and salt.

Then put another layer of meat, vegetables, and seasoning; and proceed in this manner until all the ingredients are used.

Pour in the gravy and ale (water may be substituted for the former, but it is not so nice), cover with a crust or mashed potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour, or rather longer.

_Time_.

--Rather more than 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.

--It is as well to parboil the carrots and turnips before adding them to the meat, and to use some of the liquor in which they were boiled as a substitute for gravy; that is to say, when there is no gravy at hand.

Be particular to cut the onions in very _thin_ slices.

II.

599. INGREDIENTS.

--Slices of cold roast beef, salt and pepper to taste, 1 sliced onion, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs, 5 or 6 tablespoonfuls of gravy or sauce of any kind, mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.

--Butter the sides of a deep dish, and spread mashed potatoes over the bottom of it; on this place layers of beef in thin slices (this may be minced if there is not sufficient beef to cut into slices), well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a very little onion end herbs, which should be previously fried of a nice brown; then put another layer of mashed potatoes, and beef, and other ingredients, as before; pour in the gravy or sauce, cover the whole with another layer of potatoes, and bake for 1/2 hour.

This may be served in the dish, or turned out.

_Time_.

--1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold beef, 6d.

_Sufficient_.

--A large pie-dish full for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BEEF.

--The quality of beef depends on various circumstances;

such as the age, the sex, the breed of the animal, and also on the food upon which it has been raised.

Bull beef is, in general, dry and tough, and by no means possessed of an agreeable flavour; whilst the flesh of the ox is not only highly nourishing and digestible, but, if not too old, extremely agreeable.

The flesh of the cow is, also, nourishing, but it is not so agreeable as that of the ox, although that of a heifer is held in high estimation.

The flesh of the smaller breeds is much sweeter than that of the larger, which is best when the animal is about seven years old.

That of the smaller breeds is best at about five years, and that of the cow can hardly be eaten too young.

BAKED BEEF-STEAK PUDDING.

600. INGREDIENTS.

--6 oz.

of flour, 2 eggs, not quite 1 pint of milk, salt to taste, 1-1/2 lb.

of rump-steaks, 1 kidney, pepper and salt.

_Mode_.

--Cut the steaks into nice square pieces, with a small quantity of fat, and the kidney divide into small pieces.

Make a batter of flour, eggs, and milk in the above proportion; lay a little of it at the bottom of a pie-dish; then put in the steaks and kidney, which should be well seasoned with pepper and salt, and pour over the remainder of the batter, and bake for 1-1/2 hour in a brisk but not fierce oven.

_Time_.

--1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BEEF A LA MODE.

(_Economical_.

) 601. INGREDIENTS.

--About 3 lbs.

of clod or sticking of beef, 2 oz.

of clarified dripping, 1 large onion, flour, 2 quarts of water, 12 berries of allspice, 2 bay-leaves, 1/2 teaspoonful of whole black pepper, salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Cut the beef into small pieces, and roll them in flour; put the dripping into a stewpan with the onion, which should be sliced thin.

Let it get quite hot; lay in the pieces of beef, and stir them well about.

When nicely browned all over, add _by degrees_ boiling water in the above proportion, and, as the water is added, keep the whole well stirred.

Put in the spice, bay-leaves, and seasoning, cover the stewpan closely, and set it by the side of the fire to stew very _gently_, till the meat becomes quite tender, which will be in about 3 hours, when it will be ready to serve.

Remove the bay-leaves before it is sent to table.

_Time_.

--3 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

3d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BEEF A LA MODE.

602. INGREDIENTS.

--6 or 7 lbs.

of the thick flank of beef, a few slices of fat bacon, 1 teacupful of vinegar, black pepper, allspice, 2 cloves well mixed and finely pounded, making altogether 1 heaped teaspoonful;

salt to taste, 1 bunch of savoury herbs, including parsley, all finely minced and well mixed; 3 onions, 2 large carrots, 1 turnip, 1 head of celery, 1-1/2 pint of water, 1 glass of port wine.

_Mode_.

--Slice and fry the onions of a pale brown, and cut up the other vegetables in small pieces, and prepare the beef for stewing in the following manner:--Choose a fine piece of beef, cut the bacon into long slices, about an inch in thickness, dip them into vinegar, and then into a little of the above seasoning of spice, &c. , mixed with the same quantity of minced herbs.

With a sharp knife make holes deep enough to let in the bacon; then rub the beef over with the remainder of the seasoning and herbs, and bind it up in a nice shape with tape.

Have ready a well-tinned stewpan (it should not be much larger than the piece of meat you are cooking), into which put the beef, with the vegetables, vinegar, and water.

Let it simmer _very gently_ for 5 hours, or rather longer, should the meat not be extremely tender, and turn it once or twice.

When ready to serve, take out the beef, remove the tape, and put it on a hot dish.

Skim off every particle of fat from the gravy, add the port wine, just let it boil, pour it over the beef, and it is ready to serve.

Great care must be taken that this does not boil fast, or the meat will be tough and tasteless; it should only just bubble.

When convenient, all kinds of stews, &c. , should be cooked on a hot-plate, as the process is so much more gradual than on an open fire.

_Time_.

--5 hours, or rather more.

_Average cost_, 7d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for a winter dish.

GOOD MEAT.

--The lyer of meat when freshly killed, and the animal, when slaughtered, being in a state of perfect health, adheres firmly to the bones.

Beef of the best quality is of a deep-red colour; and when the animal has approached maturity, and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, giving it the mottled appearance which is so much esteemed.

It is also full of juice, which resembles in colour claret wine.

The fat of the best beef is of a firm and waxy consistency, of a colour resembling that of the finest grass butter; bright in appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but moderately unctuous, in a medium degree between the last-mentioned properties.

BEEF-STEAKS AND OYSTER SAUCE.

603. INGREDIENTS.

--3 dozen oysters, ingredients for oyster sauce (see No. 492), 2 lbs.

of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of pepper and salt.

_Mode_.

--Make the oyster sauce by recipe No. 492, and when that is ready, put it by the side of the fire, but do not let it keep boiling.

Have the steaks cut of an equal thickness, broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often, that the gravy may not escape.

In about 8 minutes they will be done, then put them on a very hot dish; smother with the oyster sauce, and the remainder send to table in a tureen.

Serve quickly.

_Time_.

--About 8 to 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the steak.

_Average cost_, 1s.

per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to April.

BEEF-STEAK PIE.

604. INGREDIENTS.

--3 lbs.

of rump-steak, seasoning to taste of salt, cayenne, and black pepper, crust, water, the yolk of an egg.

_Mode_.

--Have the steaks cut from a rump that has hung a few days, that they may be tender, and be particular that every portion is perfectly sweet.

Cut the steaks into pieces about 3 inches long and 2 wide, allowing a _small_ piece of fat to each piece of lean, and arrange the meat in layers in a pie-dish.

Between each layer sprinkle a seasoning of salt, pepper, and, when liked, a few grains of cayenne.

Fill the dish sufficiently with meat to support the crust, and to give it a nice raised appearance when baked, and not to look flat and hollow.

Pour in sufficient water to half fill the dish, and border it with paste (see Pastry); brush it over with a little water, and put on the cover;

slightly press down the edges with the thumb, and trim off close to the dish.

Ornament the pie with leaves, or pieces of paste cut in any shape that fancy may direct, brush it over with the beaten yolk of an egg;

make a hole in the top of the crust, and bake in a hot oven for about 1-1/2 hour.

_Time_.

--In a hot oven, 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, for this size, 3s 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

Note.

--Beef-steak pies may be flavoured in various ways, with oysters and their liquor, mushrooms, minced onions, &c. For family pies, suet may be used instead of butter or lard for the crust, and clarified beef-dripping answers very well where economy is an object.

Pieces of underdone roast or boiled meat may in pies be used very advantageously;

but always remove the bone from pie-meat, unless it be chicken or game.

We have directed that the meat shall be cut smaller than is usually the case; for on trial we have found it much more tender, more easily helped, and with more gravy, than when put into the dish in one or two large steaks.

[Illustration: SHERRY PUDDING DISH.

] BEEF-STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING.

605. INGREDIENTS.

--2 lbs.

of rump-steak, 2 kidneys, seasoning to taste of salt and black pepper, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz.

of suet to each 1 lb.

of flour.

_Mode_.

--Procure some tender rump steak (that which has been hung a little time), and divide it into pieces about an inch square, and cut each kidney into 8 pieces.

Line the dish (of which we have given an engraving) with crust made with suet and flour in the above proportion, leaving a small piece of crust to overlap the edge.

Then cover the bottom with a portion of the steak and a few pieces of kidney; season with salt and pepper (some add a little flour to thicken the gravy, but it is not necessary), and then add another layer of steak, kidney, and seasoning.

Proceed in this manner till the dish is full, when pour in sufficient water to come within 2 inches of the top of the basin.

Moisten the edges of the crust, cover the pudding over, press the two crusts together, that the gravy may not escape, and turn up the overhanging paste.

Wring out a cloth in hot water, flour it, and tie up the pudding; put it into boiling water, and let it boil for at least 4 hours.

If the water diminishes, always replenish with some, hot in a jug, as the pudding should be kept covered all the time, and not allowed to stop boiling.

When the cloth is removed, cut out a round piece in the top of the crust, to prevent the pudding bursting, and send it to table in the basin, either in an ornamental dish, or with a napkin pinned round it.

Serve quickly.

_Time_.

--For a pudding with 2 lbs.

of steak and 2 kidneys allow 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 2s.

8d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

Note.

--Beef-steak pudding may be very much enriched by adding a few oysters or mushrooms.

The above recipe was contributed to this work by a Sussex lady, in which county the inhabitants are noted for their savoury puddings.

It differs from the general way of making them, as the meat is cut up into very small pieces and the basin is differently shaped: on trial, this pudding will be found far nicer, and more full of gravy, than when laid in large pieces in the dish.

BAD MEAT.

In the flesh of animals slaughtered whilst suffering acute inflammation or fever, the hollow fibres, or capillaries, as they are called, which form the substance of the lyer, are filled with congested and unassimilated animal fluid, which, from its impurity, gives the lyer a dark colour, and produces a tendency to rapid putrefaction.

In a more advanced stage of such disease, serous, and sometimes purulent matter, is formed in the cellular tissues between the muscles of the flesh; and when such is the case, nothing can be more poisonous than such abominable carrion.

In the flesh of animals killed whilst under the influence of any disease of an emaciating effect, the lyer adheres but slightly to the bones, with its fibres contracted and dry; and the little fat that there may be is friable, and shrunk within its integuments.

The flesh of animals slaughtered whilst under considerable depression of vital energy (as from previous bleeding) has a diminished tendency to stiffen after death, the feebleness of this tendency being in proportion to the degree of depression.

It presents, also, an unnatural blue or pallid appearance, has a faint and slightly sour smell, and soon becomes putrid.

When an animal has died otherwise than by slaughtering, its flesh is flaccid and clammy, emits a peculiar faint and disagreeable smell, and, it need scarcely be added, spontaneous decomposition proceeds very rapidly.

BEEF-STEAKS WITH FRIED POTATOES, or BIFTEK AUX POMMES-DE-TERRE (a la mode Francaise).

606. INGREDIENTS.

--2 lbs.

of steak, 8 potatoes, 1/4 lb.

of butter, salt and pepper to taste, 1 teaspoonful of minced herbs.

_Mode_.

--Put the butter into a frying or _sauté_ pan, set it over the fire, and let it get very hot; peel, and cut the potatoes into long thin slices; put them into the hot butter, and fry them till of a nice brown colour.

Now broil the steaks over a bright clear fire, turning them frequently, that every part may be equally done: as they should not be thick, 5 minutes will broil them.

Put the herbs and seasoning in the butter the potatoes were fried in, pour it under the steak, and place the fried potatoes round, as a garnish.

To have this dish in perfection, a portion of the fillet of the sirloin should be used, as the meat is generally so much more tender than that of the rump, and the steaks should be cut about 1/3 of an inch in thickness.

_Time_.

--5 minutes to broil the steaks, and about the same time to fry the potatoes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year; but not so good in warm weather, as the meat cannot hang to get tender.

[Illustration: AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.

] BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.

607. INGREDIENTS.

--Beef, water.

_Mode_.

--After this joint has been in salt 5 or 6 days, it will be ready for use, and will not take so long boiling: as a round, for it is not so solid.

Wash the meat, and, if too salt, soak it for a few hours, changing the water once or twice, till the required freshness is obtained.

Put into a saucepan, or boiling-pot, sufficient water to cover the meat; set it over the fire, and when it boils, plunge in the joint (see No. 557), and let it boil up quickly.

Now draw the pot to the side of the fire, and let the process be very gradual, as the water must only simmer, or the meat will be hard and tough.

Carefully remove the scum from the surface of the water, and continue doing this for a few minutes after it first boils.

Carrots and turnips are served with this dish, and sometimes suet dumplings, which may be boiled with the beef.

Garnish with a few of the carrots and turnips, and serve the remainder in a vegetable-dish.

_Time_.

--An aitch-bone of 10 lbs.

, 2-1/2 hours after the water boils;

one of 20 lbs.

, 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 6d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_.

--10 lbs.

for 7 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but best from September to March.

_Note_.

--The liquor in which the meat has been boiled may be easily converted into a very excellent pea-soup.

It will require very few vegetables, as it will be impregnated with the flavour of those boiled with the meat.

THE ACTION OF SALT ON MEAT.

--The manner in which salt acts in preserving meat is not difficult to understand.

By its strong affinity, it, in the first place, extracts the juices from the substance of meat in sufficient quantity to form a saturated solution with the water contained in the juice, and the meat then absorbs the saturated brine in place of the juice extracted by the salt.

In this way, matter incapable of putrefaction takes the places of that portion in the meat which is most perishable.

Such, however, is not the only office of salt as a means of preserving meat; it acts also by its astringency in contracting the fibres of the muscles, and so excludes the action of air on the interior of the substance of the meat.

The last-mentioned operation of salt as an antiseptic is evinced by the diminution of the volume of meat to which it is applied.

The astringent action of _saltpetre_ on meat is much greater than that of salt, and thereby renders meat to which it is applied very hard; but, in small quantities, it considerably assists the antiseptic action of salt, and also prevents the destruction of the florid colour of meat, which is caused by the application of salt.

Thus, it will be perceived, from the foregoing statement, that the application of salt and saltpetre diminishes, in a considerable degree, the nutritive, and, to some extent, the wholesome qualities of meat; and, therefore, in their use, the quantity applied should be as small as possible, consistent with the perfect preservation of the meat.

BOILED ROUND OF BEEF.

608. INGREDIENTS.

--Beef, water.

_Mode_.

--As a whole round of beef, generally speaking, is too large for small families, and very seldom required, we here give the recipe for dressing a portion of the silver side of the round.

Take from 12 to 16 lbs.

, after it has been in salt about 10 days; just wash off the salt, skewer it up in a nice round-looking form, and bind it with tape to keep the skewers in their places.

Put it in a saucepan of boiling water, as in the preceding recipe, set it upon a good fire, and when it begins to boil, carefully remove all scum from the surface, as, if this is not attended to, it sinks on to the meat, and when brought to table, presents a very unsightly appearance.

When it is well skimmed, draw the pot to the corner of the fire, and let it simmer very gently until done.

Remove the tape and skewers, which should be replaced by a silver one;

pour over a little of the pot-liquor, and garnish with carrots.

(_See_ coloured plate 2. ) Carrots, turnips, parsnips, and sometimes suet dumplings, accompany this dish; and these may all be boiled with the beef.

The pot-liquor should be saved, and converted into pea-soup; and the outside slices, which are generally hard, and of an uninviting appearance, may be out off before being sent to table, and potted.

These make an excellent relish for the breakfast or luncheon table.

_Time_.

--Part of a round of beef weighing 12 lbs.

, about 3 hours after the water boils.

_Average cost_, 8d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 10 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable for winter.

609. SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PRESERVING THE GRAVY IN SALT MEAT, WHEN IT IS TO BE SERVED COLD.

--Fill two tubs with cold water, into which throw a few pounds of rough ice; and when the meat is done, put it into one of the tubs of ice-water; let it remain 1 minute, when take out, and put it into the other tub.

Fill the first tub again with water, and continue this process for about 20 minutes; then set it upon a dish, and let it remain until quite cold.

When cut, the fat will be as white as possible, besides having saved the whole, of the gravy.

If there is no ice, spring water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more frequently changed.

_Note_.

--The BRISKET and RUMP may be boiled by the above recipe; of course allowing more or less time, according to the size of the joint.

BEEF CAKE.

610. INGREDIENTS.

--The remains of cold roast beef; to each pound of cold meat allow 1/4 lb.

of bacon or ham; seasoning to taste of pepper and salt, 1 small bunch of minced savoury herbs, 1 or 2 eggs.

_Mode_.

--Mince the beef very finely (if underdone it will be better), add to it the bacon, which must also be chopped very small, and mix well together.

Season, stir in the herbs, and bind with an egg, or 2 should 1 not be sufficient.

Make it into small square cakes, about 1/2 inch thick, fry them in hot dripping, and serve in a dish with good gravy poured round them.

_Time_.

--10 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cold meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BROILED BEEF-STEAKS or RUMP-STEAKS.

611. INGREDIENTS.

--Steaks, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of good mushroom ketchup or Harvey's sauce.

_Mode_.

--As the success of a good broil so much depends on the state of the fire, see that it is bright and clear, and perfectly free from smoke, and do not add any fresh fuel just before you require to use the gridiron.

Sprinkle a little salt over the fire, put on the gridiron for a few minutes, to get thoroughly hot through; rub it with a piece of fresh, suet, to prevent the meat from sticking, and lay on the steaks, which should be cut of an equal thickness, about 3/4 of an inch, or rather thinner, and level them by beating them as _little_ as possible with a rolling-pin.

Turn them frequently with steak-tongs (if these are not at hand, stick a fork in the edge of the fat, that no gravy escapes), and in from 8 to 10 minutes they will be done.

Have ready a very hot dish, into which put the ketchup, and, when liked, a little minced shalot; dish up the steaks, rub them over with butter, and season with pepper and salt.

The exact time for broiling steaks must be determined by taste, whether they are liked underdone or well done; more than from 8 to 10 minutes for a steak 3/4 inch in thickness, we think, would spoil and dry up the juices of the meat.

Great expedition is necessary in sending broiled steaks to table; and, to have them in perfection, they should not be cooked till everything else prepared for dinner has been dished up, as their excellence entirely depends on their being served very hot.

Garnish with scraped horseradish, or slices of cucumber.

Oyster, tomato, onion, and many other sauces, are frequent accompaniments to rump-steak, but true lovers of this English dish generally reject all additions but pepper and salt.

_Time_.

--8 to 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

per lb.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1/2 lb.

to each person; if the party consist entirely of gentlemen, 3/4 lb.

will not be too much.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good in the height of summer, as the meat cannot hang long enough to be tender.

DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF.

--We have already stated (see No. 593) that the Scots breed of oxen, like the South-down in mutton, stands first in excellence.

It should be borne in mind, however, that each county has its particular season, and that the London and other large markets are always supplied by those counties whose meat, from local circumstances, is in the best condition at the time.

Thus, the season in Norfolk, from which the Scots come (these being the principal oxen bred by the Norfolk and Suffolk graziers), commences about Christmas and terminates about June, when this breed begins to fall off, their place being taken by grass-fed oxen.

A large quantity of most excellent meat is sent to the "dead markets" from Scotland, and some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source.

BROILED BEEF AND MUSHROOM SAUCE.

(Cold Meat Cookery).

612. INGREDIENTS.

--2 or 3 dozen small button mushrooms, 1 oz.

of butter, salt and cayenne to taste, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, mashed potatoes, slices of cold roast beef.

_Mode_.

--Wipe the mushrooms free from grit with a piece of flannel, and salt; put them in a stewpan with the butter, seasoning, and ketchup;

stir over the fire until the mushrooms are quite done, when pour it in the middle of mashed potatoes, browned.

Then place round the potatoes slices of cold roast beef, nicely broiled, over a clear fire.

In making the mushroom sauce, the ketchup may be dispensed with, if there is sufficient gravy.

_Time_.

--1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 8d.

_Seasonable_ from August to October.

BROILED BEEF AND OYSTER SAUCE (Cold Meat Cookery).

613. INGREDIENTS.

--2 dozen oysters, 3 cloves, 1 blade of mace, 2 oz.

of butter, 1/2 teaspoonful of flour, cayenne and salt to taste, mashed potatoes, a few slices of cold roast beef.

_Mode_.

--Put the oysters in a stewpan, with their liquor strained; add the cloves, mace, butter, flour, and seasoning, and let them simmer gently for 5 minutes.

Have ready in the centre of a dish round walls of mashed potatoes, browned; into the middle pour the oyster sauce, quite hot, and round the potatoes place, in layers, slices of the beef, which should be previously broiled over a nice clear fire.