Book of Household Management — 034 - Recipes. Chapter 15. Part 2.

ITALIAN MUTTON CUTLETS.

723. INGREDIENTS.

--About 3 lbs.

of the neck of mutton, clarified butter, the yolk of 1 egg, 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced savoury herbs, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced shalot, 1 saltspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-peel; pepper, salt, and pounded mace to taste; flour, 1/2 pint of hot broth or water, 2 teaspoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 1 teaspoonful of soy, 2 teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, 1 tablespoonful of port wine.

_Mode_.

--Cut the mutton into nicely-shaped cutlets, flatten them, and trim off some of the fat, dip them in clarified butter, and then, into the beaten yolk of an egg.

Mix well together bread crumbs, herbs, parsley, shalot, lemon-peel, and seasoning in the above proportion, and cover the cutlets with these ingredients.

Melt some butter in a frying-pan, lay in the cutlets, and fry them a nice brown; take them, out, and keep them hot before the fire.

Dredge some flour into the pan, and if there is not sufficient butter, add a little more; stir till it looks brown, then pour in the hot broth or water, and the remaining ingredients; give one boil, and pour round the cutlets.

If the gravy should not be thick enough, add a little more flour.

Mushrooms, when obtainable, are a great improvement to this dish, and when not in season, mushroom-powder may be substituted for them.

_Time_.

--10 minutes;--rather longer, should the cutlets be very thick.

_Average cost_, 2s.

9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

THE DOWNS.

--The well-known substance chalk, which the chemist regards as a nearly pure carbonate of lime, and the microscopist as an aggregation of inconceivably minute shells and corals, forms the sub-soil of the hilly districts of the south-east of England.

The chalk-hills known as the South Downs start from the bold promontory of Beachy Head, traverse the county of Sussex from east to west, and pass through Hampshire into Surrey.

The North Downs extend from Godalming, by Godstone, into Kent, and terminate in the line of cliffs which stretches from Dover to Ramsgate.

The Downs are clothed with short verdant turf; but the layer of soil which rests upon the chalk is too thin to support trees and shrubs.

The hills have rounded summits, and their smooth, undulated outlines are unbroken save by the sepulchral monuments of the early inhabitants of the country.

The coombes and furrows, which ramify and extend into deep valleys, appear like dried-up channels of streams and rivulets.

From time immemorial, immense flocks of sheep have been reared on these downs.

The herbage of these hills is remarkably nutritious; and whilst the natural healthiness of the climate, consequent on the dryness of the air and the moderate elevation of the land, is eminently favourable to rearing a superior race of sheep, the arable land in the immediate neighbourhood of the Downs affords the means of a supply of other food, when the natural produce of the hills fails.

The mutton of the South-Down breed of sheep is highly valued for its delicate flavour, and the wool for its fineness; but the best specimens of this breed, when imported from England into the West Indies, become miserably lean in the course of a year or two, and their woolly fleece gives place to a covering of short, crisp, brownish hair.

BROILED KIDNEYS (a Breakfast or Supper Dish).

724. INGREDIENTS.

--Sheep kidneys, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Ascertain that the kidneys are fresh, and cut them open very evenly, lengthwise, down to the root, for should one half be thicker than the other, one would be underdone whilst the other would be dried, but do not separate them; skin them, and pass a skewer under the white part of each half to keep them flat, and broil over a nice clear fire, placing the inside downwards; turn them when done enough on one side, and cook them on the other.

Remove the skewers, place the kidneys on a very hot dish, season with pepper and salt, and put a tiny piece of butter in the middle of each; serve very hot and quickly, and send very hot plates to table.

_Time_.

--6 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d.

each.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 for each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.

--A prettier dish than the above may be made by serving the kidneys each on a piece of buttered toast out in any fanciful shape.

In this case a little lemon-juice will be found an improvement.

[Illustration: KIDNEYS.

] FRIED KIDNEYS.

725. INGREDIENTS.

--Kidneys, butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Cut the kidneys open without quite dividing them, remove the skin, and put a small piece of butter in the frying-pan.

When the butter is melted, lay in the kidneys the flat side downwards, and fry them for 7 or 8 minutes, turning them when they are half-done.

Serve on a piece of dry toast, season with pepper and salt, and put a small piece of butter in each kidney; pour the gravy from the pan over them, and serve very hot.

_Time_.

--7 or 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d.

each.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 kidney to each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: HAUNCH OF MUTTON.

] 726. INGREDIENTS.

--Haunch of mutton, a little salt, flour.

_Mode_.

--Let this joint hang as long as possible without becoming tainted, and while hanging dust flour over it, which keeps off the flies, and prevents the air from getting to it.

If not well hung, the joint, when it comes to table, will neither do credit to the butcher or the cook, as it will not be tender.

Wash the outside well, lest it should have a bad flavour from keeping; then flour it and put it down to a nice brisk fire, at some distance, so that it may gradually warm through.

Keep continually basting, and about 1/2 hour before it is served, draw it nearer to the fire to get nicely brown.

Sprinkle a little fine salt over the meat, pour off the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted, and strain this over the joint.

Place a paper ruche on the bone, and send red-currant jelly and gravy in a tureen to table with it.

_Time_.

--About 4 hours.

_Average cost_, 10d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 8 to 10 persons.

_Seasonable_.

--In best season from September to March.

HOW TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY.

--If the housekeeper is not very particular as to the precise joints to cook for dinner, there is oftentimes an opportunity for her to save as much money in her purchases of meat as will pay for the bread to eat with it.

It often occurs, for instance, that the butcher may have a superfluity of certain joints, and these he would be glad to get rid of at a reduction of sometimes as much as 1d.

or 1-1/2d.

per lb.

, and thus, in a joint of 8 or 9 lbs.

, will be saved enough to buy 2 quartern loaves.

It frequently happens with many butchers, that, in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of mutton, they have only shoulders left, and these they will be glad to sell at a reduction.

ROAST LEG OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: LEG OF MUTTON.

] 727. INGREDIENTS.

--Leg of mutton, a little salt.

_Mode_.

--As mutton, when freshly killed, is never tender, hang it almost as long as it will keep; flour it, and put it in a cool airy place for a few days, if the weather will permit.

Wash off the flour, wipe it very dry, and cut off the shank-bone; put it down to a brisk clear fire, dredge with flour, and keep continually basting the whole time it is cooking.

About 20 minutes before serving, draw it near the fire to get nicely brown; sprinkle over it a little salt, dish the meat, pour off the dripping, add some boiling water slightly salted, strain it over the joint, and serve.

_Time_.

--A leg of mutton weighing 10 lbs.

, about 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 hours;

one of 7 lbs.

, about 2 hours, or rather less.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_.

--A moderate-sized leg of mutton sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but not so good in June, July, and August.

ROAST LOIN OF MUTTON.

728. INGREDIENTS.

--Loin of mutton, a little salt.

_Mode_.

--Cut and trim off the superfluous fat, and see that the butcher joints the meat properly, as thereby much annoyance is saved to the carver, when it comes to table.

Have ready a nice clear fire (it need not be a very wide large one), put down the meat, dredge with flour, and baste well until it is done.

Make the gravy as for roast leg of mutton, and serve very hot.

[Illustration: LOIN OF MUTTON.

] _Time_.

--A loin of mutton weighing 6 lbs.

, 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ROLLED LOIN OF MUTTON (Very Excellent).

729. INGREDIENTS.

--About 6 lbs.

of a loin of mutton, 1/2 teaspoonful of pepper, 1/4 teaspoonful of pounded allspice, 1/4 teaspoonful of mace, 1/4 teaspoonful of nutmeg, 6 cloves, forcemeat No. 417, 1 glass of port wine, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup.

_Mode_.

--Hang the mutton till tender, bone it, and sprinkle over it pepper, mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg in the above proportion, all of which must be pounded very fine.

Let it remain for a day, then make a forcemeat by recipe No. 417, cover the meat with it, and roll and bind it up firmly.

Half bake it in a slow oven, let it grow cold, take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stewpan; flour the meat, put it in the gravy, and stew it till perfectly tender.

Now take out the meat, unbind it, add to the gravy wine and ketchup as above, give one boil, and pour over the meat.

Serve with red-currant jelly; and, if obtainable, a few mushrooms stewed for a few minutes in the gravy, will be found a great improvement.

_Time_.

--1-1/2 hour to bake the meat, 1-1/2 hour to stew gently.

_Average cost_, 4s.

9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.

--This joint will be found very nice if rolled and stuffed, as here directed, and plainly roasted.

It should be well basted, and served with a good gravy and currant jelly.

BOILED NECK OF MUTTON.

730. INGREDIENTS.

--4 lbs.

of the middle, or best end of the neck of mutton; a little salt.

_Mode_.

--Trim off a portion of the fat, should there be too much, and if it is to look particularly nice, the chine-bone should be sawn down, the ribs stripped halfway down, and the ends of the bones chopped off; this is, however, not necessary.

Put the meat into sufficient _boiling_ water to cover it; when it boils, add a little salt and remove all the scum.

Draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let the water get so cool that the finger may be borne in it; then simmer very _slowly_ and gently until the meat is done, which will be in about 1-1/2 hour, or rather more, reckoning from the time that it begins to simmer.

Serve with turnips and caper sauce, No. 382, and pour a little of it over the meat.

The turnips should be boiled with the mutton; and, when at hand, a few carrots will also be found an improvement.

These, however, if very large and thick, must be cut into long thinnish pieces, or they will not be sufficiently done by the time the mutton is ready.

Garnish the dish with carrots and turnips placed alternately round the mutton.

_Time_.

--4 lbs.

of the neck of mutton, about 1-1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2 d. per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

THE POETS ON SHEEP.

--The keeping of flocks seems to have been the first employment of mankind; and the most ancient sort of poetry was probably pastoral.

The poem known as the Pastoral gives a picture of the life of the simple shepherds of the golden age, who are supposed to have beguiled their time in singing.

In all pastorals, repeated allusions are made to the "fleecy flocks," the "milk-white lambs," and "the tender ewes;"

indeed, the sheep occupy a position in these poems inferior only to that of the shepherds who tend them.

The "nibbling sheep" has ever been a favourite of the poets, and has supplied them with figures and similes without end.

Shakspere frequently compares men to sheep.

When Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the side of Henry VI.

, the poor king thus touchingly speaks of his helplessness;-- "So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf: So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece, And next his throat, unto the butcher's knife."

In the "Two Gentlemen of Verona," we meet with the following humorous comparison:-- "_Proteus_.

The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the shepherd for food follows not the sheep: thou for wages followest thy master, thy master for wages follows not thee;

therefore, thou art a sheep.

"_Speed_.

Such another proof will make me cry _baa_."

The descriptive poets give us some charming pictures of sheep.

Every one is familiar with the sheep-shearing scene in Thomson's "Seasons:"-- "Heavy and dripping, to the breezy brow Slow move the harmless race; where, as they spread Their dwelling treasures to the sunny ray, Inly disturb'd, and wond'ring what this wild Outrageous tumult means, their loud complaints The country fill; and, toss'd from rock to rock, Incessant bleatings run around the hills."

What an exquisite idea of stillness is conveyed in the oft-quoted line from Gray's "Elegy:"-- "And drowsy tinklings lull the distant fold."

From Dyer's quaint poem of "The Fleece" we could cull a hundred passages relating to sheep; but we have already exceeded our space.

We cannot, however, close this brief notice of the allusions that have been made to sheep by our poets, without quoting a couple of verses from Robert Burns's "Elegy on Poor Mailie," his only "pet _yowe_:"-- "Thro' a' the town she troll'd by him;

A lang half-mile she could descry him;

Wi' kindly bleat, when she did spy him.

She ran wi' speed;

A friend mair faithfu' ne'er cam' nigh him Than Mailie dead.

"I wat she was a sheep o' sense.

An' could behave hersel' wi' mense;

I'll say't, she never brak a fence, Thro' thievish greed.

Our bardie, lanely, keeps the spence, Sin' Mailie's dead."

MUTTON COLLOPS (Cold Meat Cookery).

731. INGREDIENTS.

--A few slices of a cold leg or loin of mutton, salt and pepper to taste, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs minced very fine, 2 or 3 shalots, 2 or 3 oz.

of butter, 1 dessertspoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of gravy, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.

--Cut some very thin slices from a leg or the chump end of a loin of mutton; sprinkle them with pepper, salt, pounded mace, minced savoury herbs, and minced shalot; fry them in butter, stir in a dessertspoonful of flour, add the gravy and lemon-juice, simmer very gently about 5 or 7 minutes, and serve immediately.

_Time_.

--5 to 7 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 6d.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: MUTTON CUTLETS.

] MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES.

732. INGREDIENTS.

--About 3 lbs.

of the best end of the neck of mutton, salt and pepper to taste, mashed potatoes.

_Mode_.

--Procure a well-hung neck of mutton, saw off about 3 inches of the top of the bones, and cut the cutlets of a moderate thickness.

Shape them by chopping off the thick part of the chine-bone; beat them flat with a cutlet-chopper, and scrape quite clean, a portion of the top of the bone.

Broil them over a nice clear fire for about 7 or 8 minutes, and turn them frequently.

Have ready some smoothly-mashed white potatoes; place these in the middle of the dish; when the cutlets are done, season with pepper and salt; arrange them round the potatoes, with the thick end of the cutlets downwards, and serve very hot and quickly.

(See Coloured Plate.

) _Time_.

--7 or 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, for this quantity, 2s.

4d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.

--Cutlets may be served in various ways; with peas, tomatoes, onions, sauce piquante, &c. MUTTON PIE (Cold Meat Cookery).

733. INGREDIENTS.

--The remains of a cold leg, loin, or neck of mutton, pepper and salt to taste, 2 blades of pounded mace, 1 dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, 1 teaspoonful of minced savoury herbs; when liked, a little minced onion or shalot; 3 or 4 potatoes, 1 teacupful of gravy;

crust.

_Mode_.

--Cold mutton may be made into very good pies if well seasoned and mixed with a few herbs; if the leg is used, cut it into very thin slices; if the loin or neck, into thin cutlets.

Place some at the bottom of the dish; season well with pepper, salt, mace, parsley, and herbs;

then put a layer of potatoes sliced, then more mutton, and so on till the dish is full; add the gravy, cover with a crust, and bake for 1 hour.

_Time_.

--1 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.

--The remains of an underdone leg of mutton may be converted into a very good family pudding, by cutting the meat into slices, and putting them into a basin lined with a suet crust.

It should be seasoned well with pepper, salt, and minced shalot, covered with a crust, and boiled for about 3 hours.

MUTTON PIE.

734. INGREDIENTS.

--2 lbs.

of the neck or loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; 2 kidneys, pepper and salt to taste, 2 teacupfuls of gravy or water, 2 tablespoonfuls of minced parsley; when liked, a little minced onion or shalot; puff crust.

_Mode_.

--Bone the mutton, and cut the meat into steaks all of the same thickness, and leave but very little fat.

Cut up the kidneys, and arrange these with the meat neatly in a pie-dish; sprinkle over them the minced parsley and a seasoning of pepper and salt; pour in the gravy, and cover with a tolerably good puff crust.

Bake for 1-1/2 hour, or rather longer, should the pie be very large, and let the oven be rather brisk.

A well-made suet crust may be used instead of puff crust, and will be found exceedingly good.

_Time_.

--1-1/2 hour, or rather longer.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

MUTTON PUDDING.

735. INGREDIENTS.

--About 2 lbs.

of the chump end of the loin of mutton, weighed after being boned; pepper and salt to taste, suet crust made with milk (see Pastry), in the proportion of 6 oz.

of suet to each pound of flour; a very small quantity of minced onion (this may be omitted when the flavour is not liked).

_Mode_.

--Cut the meat into rather thin slices, and season them with pepper and salt; line the pudding-dish with crust; lay in the meat, and nearly, but do not quite, fill it up with water; when the flavour is liked, add a small quantity of minced onion; cover with crust, and proceed in the same manner as directed in recipe No. 605, using the same kind of pudding-dish as there mentioned.

_Time_.

--About 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

9d.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but more suitable in winter.

RAGOUT OF COLD NECK OF MUTTON (Cold Meat Cookery).

736. INGREDIENTS.

--The remains of a cold neck or loin of mutton, 2 oz.

of butter, a little flour, 2 onions sliced, 1/4 pint of water, 2 small carrots, 2 turnips, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Cut the mutton into small chops, and trim off the greater portion of the fat; put the butter into a stewpan, dredge in a little flour, add the sliced onions, and keep stirring till brown; then put in the meat.

When this is quite brown, add the water, and the carrots and turnips, which should be cut into very thin slices; season with pepper and salt, and stew till quite tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour.

When in season, green peas may be substituted for the carrots and turnips: they should be piled in the centre of the dish, and the chops laid round.

_Time_.

--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the meat, 4d.

_Seasonable_, with peas, from June to August.

ROAST NECK OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: NECK OF MUTTON 1-2. _Best end_.

2-3. _Scrag_.

] 737. INGREDIENTS.

--Neck of mutton; a little salt.

_Mode_.

--For roasting, choose the middle, or the best end, of the neck of mutton, and if there is a very large proportion of fat, trim off some of it, and save it for making into suet puddings, which will be found exceedingly good.

Let the bones be cut short and see that it is properly jointed before it is laid down to the fire, as they will be more easily separated when they come to table.

Place the joint at a nice brisk fire, dredge it with flour, and keep continually basting until done.

A

few minutes before serving, draw it nearer the the fire to acquire a nice colour, sprinkle over it a little salt, pour off the dripping, add a little boiling water slightly salted, strain this over the meat and serve.

Red-currant jelly may be sent to table with it.

_Time_.

--4 lbs.

of the neck of mutton, rather more than 1 hour.

_Average cost_, 8-1/2d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES.

--The distinction between hair and wool is rather arbitrary than natural, consisting in the greater or less degrees of fineness, softness and pliability of the fibres.

When the fibres possess these properties so far as to admit of their being spun and woven into a texture sufficiently pliable to be used as an article of dress, they are called wool.

The sheep, llama, Angora goat, and the goat of Thibet, are the animals from which most of the wool used in manufactures is obtained.

The finest of all wools is that from the goat of Thibet, of which the Cashmere shawls are made.

Of European wools, the finest is that yielded by the Merino sheep, the Spanish and Saxon breeds taking the precedence.

The Merino sheep, as now naturalized in Australia, furnishes an excellent fleece; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared either in Europe or Australia are inferior in softness of feel to that grown in India, and to that of the llama of the Andes.

The best of our British wools are inferior in fineness to any of the above-mentioned, being nearly twelve times the thickness of the finest Spanish merino; but for the ordinary purposes of the manufacturer, they are unrivalled.

ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.

[Illustration: SADDLE OF MUTTON.

] 738. INGREDIENTS.

--Saddle of mutton; a little salt.

_Mode_.

--To insure this joint being tender, let it hang for ten days or a fortnight, if the weather permits.

Cut off the tail and flaps and trim away every part that has not indisputable pretensions to be eaten, and have the skin taken off and skewered on again.

Put it down to a bright, clear fire, and, when the joint has been cooking for an hour, remove the skin and dredge it with flour.

It should not be placed too near the fire, as the fat should not be in the slightest degree burnt.

Keep constantly basting, both before and after the skin is removed; sprinkle some salt over the joint.

Make a little gravy in the dripping-pan; pour it over the meat, which send to table with a tureen of made gravy and red-currant jelly.