Book of Household Management — 055 - Recipes. Chapter 25. Part 2.

1104. INGREDIENTS.

--To each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.

--Choose cauliflowers that are close and white; trim off the decayed outside leaves, and cut the stalk off flat at the bottom.

Open the flower a little in places to remove the insects, which generally are found about the stalk, and let the cauliflowers lie in salt and water for an hour previous to dressing them, with their heads downwards: this will effectually draw out all the vermin.

Then put them into fast-boiling water, with the addition of salt in the above proportion, and let them boil briskly over a good fire, keeping the saucepan uncovered.

The water should be well skimmed; and, when the cauliflowers are tender, take them up with a slice; let them drain, and, if large enough, place them upright in the dish.

Serve with plain melted butter, a little of which may be poured over the flower.

_Time_.

--Small cauliflower, 12 to 15 minutes, large one, 20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, 6d.

each.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 large cauliflower for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.

CAULIFLOWERS A LA SAUCE BLANCHE.

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.

) 1105. INGREDIENTS.

--3 cauliflowers, 1/2 pint of sauce blanche, or French melted butter, No. 378; 3 oz.

of butter; salt and water.

_Mode_.

--Cleanse the cauliflowers as in the preceding recipe, and cut the stalks off flat at the bottom; boil them until tender in salt and water, to which the above proportion of butter has been added, and be careful to take them up the moment they are done, or they will break, and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled.

Drain them well, and dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower.

Have ready 1/2 pint of sauce, made by recipe No. 378, pour it over the flowers, and serve hot and quickly.

_Time_.

--Small cauliflowers, 12 to 15 minutes, large ones, 20 to 25 minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_,--large cauliflowers, in full season, 6d.

each.

_Sufficient_,--1 large cauliflower for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.

CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI.

--These are only forms of the wild Cabbage in its cultivated state.

They are both well known; but we may observe, that the purple and white Brocoli are only varieties of the Cauliflower.

CAULIFLOWERS WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.

(Entremets, or Side-dish, to be served with the Second Course.

) 1106. INGREDIENTS.

--2 or 3 cauliflowers, rather more than 1/2 pint of white sauce No. 378, 2 tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, 2 oz.

of fresh butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs.

_Mode_.

--Cleanse and boil the cauliflowers by recipe No. 1104, and drain them and dish them with the flowers standing upright.

Have ready the above proportion of white sauce; pour sufficient of it over the cauliflowers just to cover the top; sprinkle over this some rasped Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs, and drop on these the butter, which should be melted, but not oiled.

Brown with a salamander, or before the fire, and pour round, but not over, the flowers the remainder of the sauce, with which should be mixed a small quantity of grated Parmesan cheese.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, for large cauliflowers, 6d.

each.

_Sufficient_,--3 small cauliflowers for 1 dish.

_Seasonable_ from the beginning of June to the end of September.

CELERY.

[Illustration: CELERY IN GLASS.

] 1107. With a good heart, and nicely blanched, this vegetable is generally eaten raw, and is usually served with the cheese.

Let the roots be washed free from dirt, all the decayed and outside leaves being cut off, preserving as much of the stalk as possible, and all specks or blemishes being carefully removed.

Should the celery be large, divide it lengthwise into quarters, and place it, root downwards, in a celery-glass, which should be rather more than half filled with water.

The top leaves may be curled, by shredding them in narrow strips with the point of a clean skewer, at a distance of about 4 inches from the top.

_Average cost_, 2d.

per head.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 2 heads for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

_Note_.

--This vegetable is exceedingly useful for flavouring soups, sauces, &c. , and makes a very nice addition to winter salad.

STEWED CELERY A LA CREME.

1108. INGREDIENTS.

--6 heads of celery; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1 blade of pounded mace, 1/3 pint of cream.

_Mode_.

--Wash the celery thoroughly; trim, and boil it in salt and water until tender.

Put the cream and pounded mace into a stewpan; shake it over the fire until the cream thickens, dish the celery, pour over the sauce, and serve.

_Time_.

--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes; small ones, 15 to 20 minutes.

_Average cost_.

2d.

per head.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

ALEXANDERS.

--This plant is the _Smyrnium olustratum_ of science, and is used in this country in the same way in which celery is.

It is a native of Great Britain, and is found in its wild state near the seacoast.

It received its name from the Italian "herba Alexandrina," and is supposed to have been originally brought from Alexandria; but, be this as it may, its cultivation is now almost entirely abandoned.

STEWED CELERY (with White Sauce).

I.

1109. INGREDIENTS.

--6 heads of celery, 1 oz.

of butter; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt, 1/2 pint of white sauce, No. 537 or 538. _Mode_.

--Have ready sufficient boiling water just to cover the celery, with salt and butter in the above proportion.

Wash the celery well; cut off the decayed outside leaves, trim away the green tops, and shape the root into a point; put it into the boiling water; let it boil rapidly until tender; then take it out, drain well, place it upon a dish, and pour over about 1/2 pint of white sauce, made by either of the recipes No. 537 or 538. It may also be plainly boiled as above, placed on toast, and melted butter poured over, the same as asparagus is dished.

_Time_.

--Large heads of celery, 25 minutes, small ones, 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils.

_Average cost_, 2d.

per head.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

ORIGIN OF CELERY.

--In the marshes and ditches of this country there is to be found a very common plant, known by the name of Smallage.

This is the wild form of celery; but, by being subjected to cultivation, it loses its acrid nature, and becomes mild and sweet.

In its natural state, it has a peculiar rank, coarse taste and smell, and its root was reckoned by the ancients as one of the "five greater aperient roots."

There is a variety of this in which the root becomes turnip-shaped and large.

It is called _Celeriae_, and is extensively used by the Germans, and preferred by them to celery.

In a raw state, this plant does not suit weak stomachs; cooked, it is less difficult of digestion, although a large quantity should not he taken.

[Illustration: CELERY.

].

II.

1110. INGREDIENTS.

--6 heads of celery, 1/2 pint of white stock or weak broth, 4 tablespoonfuls of cream, thickening of butter and flour, 1 blade of pounded mace, a _very little_ grated nutmeg; pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Wash the celery, strip off the outer leaves, and cut it into lengths of about 4 inches.

Put these into a saucepan, with the broth, and stew till tender, which will be in from 20 to 25 minutes; then add the remaining ingredients, simmer altogether for 4 or 5 minutes, pour into a dish, and serve.

It may be garnished with sippets of toasted bread.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, 2d.

per head.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from October to April.

_Note_.

--By cutting the celery into smaller pieces, by stewing it a little longer, and, when done, by pressing it through a sieve, the above stew may be converted into a puree of celery.

TO DRESS CUCUMBERS.

1111. INGREDIENTS.

--3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste; cucumber.

_Mode_.

--Pare the cucumber, cut it equally into _very thin_ slices, and _commence_ cutting from the _thick end_; if commenced at the stalk, the cucumber will most likely have an exceedingly bitter taste, far from agreeable.

Put the slices into a dish, sprinkle over salt and pepper, and pour over oil and vinegar in the above proportion; turn the cucumber about, and it is ready to serve.

This is a favourite accompaniment to boiled salmon, is a nice addition to all descriptions of salads, and makes a pretty garnish to lobster salad.

[Illustration: SLICED CUCUMBERS.

] [Illustration: CUCUMBER.

] _Average cost_, when scarce, 1s.

to 2s.

6d.

; when cheapest, may be had for 4d.

each.

_Seasonable_.

--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in full season in July, August, and September.

GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF THE CUCUMBERS.

--This family is not known in the frigid zone, is somewhat rare in the temperate, but in the tropical and warmer regions throughout the world they are abundant.

They are most plentiful in the continent of Hindostan;

but in America are not near so plentiful.

Many of the kinds supply useful articles of consumption for food, and others are actively medicinal in their virtues.

Generally speaking, delicate stomachs should avoid this plant, for it is cold and indigestible.

CUCUMBERS A LA POULETTE.

1112. INGREDIENTS.

--2 or 3 cucumbers, salt and vinegar, 2 oz.

of butter, flour, 1/2 pint of broth, 1 teaspoonful of minced parsley, a lump of sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper to taste.

_Mode_.

--Pare and cut the cucumbers into slices of an equal thickness, and let them remain in a pickle of salt and vinegar for 1/2 hour; then drain them in a cloth, and put them into a stewpan with the butter.

Fry them over a brisk fire, but do not brown them, and then dredge over them a little flour; add the broth, skim off all the fat, which will rise to the surface, and boil gently until the gravy is somewhat reduced; but the cucumber should not be broken.

Stir in the yolks of the eggs, add the parsley, sugar, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; bring the whole to the point of boiling, and serve.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 1 hour.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d.

each.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.

FRIED CUCUMBERS.

1113. INGREDIENTS.

--2 or 3 cucumbers, pepper and salt to taste, flour, oil or butter.

_Mode_.

--Pare the cucumbers and cut them into slices of an equal thickness, commencing to slice from the thick, and not the stalk end of the cucumber.

Wipe the slices dry with a cloth, dredge them with flour, and put them into a pan of boiling oil or butter; Keep turning them about until brown; lift them out of the pan, let them drain, and serve, piled lightly in a dish.

These will be found a great improvement to rump-steak: they should be placed on a dish with the steak on the top.

_Time_.

--5 minutes.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d.

each.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_.

--Forced from the beginning of March to the end of June; in full season in July and August.

PROPERTIES AND USES OF THE CUCURBITS.

--The common cucumber is the C. sativus of science, and although the whole of the family have a similar action in the animal economy, yet there are some which present us with great anomalies.

The roots of those which are perennial contain, besides fecula, which is their base, a resinous, acrid, and bitter principle.

The fruits of this family, however, have in general a sugary taste, and are more or less dissolving and perfumed, as we find in the melons, gourds, cucumbers, vegetable-marrows, and squashes.

But these are slightly laxative if partaken of largely.

In tropical countries, this order furnishes the inhabitants with a large portion of their food, which, even in the most arid deserts and most barren islands, is of the finest quality.

In China, Cashmere, and Persia, they are cultivated on the lakes on the floating collections of weeds common in these localities.

In India they are everywhere abundant, either in a cultivated or wild state, and the seeds of all the family are sweet and mucilaginous.

STEWED CUCUMBERS.

1114. INGREDIENTS.

--3 large cucumbers, flour, butter, rather more than 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.

_Mode_.

--Cut the cucumbers lengthwise the size of the dish they are intended to be served in; empty them of the seeds, and put them into boiling water with a little salt, and let them simmer for 5 minutes;

then take them out, place them in another stewpan, with the gravy, and let them boil over a brisk fire until the cucumbers are tender.

Should these be bitter, add a lump of sugar; carefully dish them, skim the sauce, pour over the cucumbers, and serve.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 1d.

each.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ in June, July, and August; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.

THE CHATE.

--This cucumber is a native of Egypt and Arabia, and produces a fruit of almost the same substance as that of the Melon.

In Egypt it is esteemed by the upper class natives, as well as by Europeans, as the most pleasant fruit they have.

STEWED CUCUMBERS WITH ONIONS.

1115. INGREDIENTS.

--6 cucumbers, 3 moderate-sized onions, not quite 1 pint of white stock, cayenne and salt to taste, the yolks of 2 eggs, a very little grated nutmeg.

_Mode_.

--Pare and slice the cucumbers, take out the seeds, and cut the onions into thin slices; put these both into a stewpan, with the stock, and let them boil for 1/4 hour or longer, should the cucumbers be very large.

Beat up the yolks of 2 eggs; stir these into the sauce; add the cayenne, salt, and grated nutmeg; bring it to the point of boiling, and serve.

Do not allow the sauce to boil, or it will curdle.

This is a favourite dish with lamb or mutton chops, rump-steaks, &c. _Time_.

--Altogether, 20 minutes.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 4d.

each.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September; but may be had, forced, from the beginning of March.

THE MELON.

--This is another species of the cucumber, and is highly esteemed for its rich and delicious fruit.

It was introduced to this country from Jamaica, in 1570; since which period it has continued to be cultivated.

It was formerly called the Musk Melon.

ENDIVE.

[Illustration: ENDIVE.

] 1116. This vegetable, so beautiful in appearance, makes an excellent addition to winter salad, when lettuces and other salad herbs are not obtainable.

It is usually placed in the centre of the dish, and looks remarkably pretty with slices of beetroot, hard-boiled eggs, and curled celery placed round it, so that the colours contrast nicely.

In preparing it, carefully wash and cleanse it free from insects, which are generally found near the heart; remove any decayed or dead leaves, and dry it thoroughly by shaking in a cloth.

This vegetable may also be served hot, stewed in cream, brown gravy, or butter; but when dressed thus, the sauce it is stewed in should not be very highly seasoned, as that would destroy and overpower the flavour of the vegetable.

_Average cost_, 1d.

per head.

_Sufficient_,--1 head for a salad for 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

ENDIVE.

--This is the _C.

endivium_ of science, and is much used as a salad.

It belongs to the family of the _Compositae_, with Chicory, common Goats-beard, and others of the same genus.

Withering states, that before the stems of the common Goats-beard shoot up the roots, boiled like asparagus, have the same flavour, and are nearly as nutritious.

We are also informed by Villars that the children in Dauphiné universally eat the stems and leaves of the young plant before the flowers appear, with great avidity.

The fresh juice of these tender herbs is said to be the best solvent of bile.

STEWED ENDIVE.

1117. INGREDIENTS.

--6 heads of endive, salt and water, 1 pint of broth, thickening of butter and flour, 1 tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a small lump of sugar.

_Mode_.

--Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the green part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly salted.

Let it remain for 10 minutes; then take it out, drain it till there is no water remaining, and chop it very fine.

Put it into a stewpan with the broth; add a little salt and a lump of sugar, and boil until the endive is perfectly tender.

When done, which may be ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a thickening of butter and flour and the lemon-juice: let the sauce boil up, and serve.

_Time_.

--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.

_Average cost_, 1d.

per head.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

ENDIVE A LA FRANCAISE.

1118. INGREDIENTS.

--6 heads of endive, 1 pint of broth, 3 oz.

of fresh butter; salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste.

_Mode_.

--Wash and boil the endive as in the preceding recipe; chop it rather fine, and put into a stewpan with the broth; boil over a brisk fire until the sauce is all reduced; then put in the butter, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg (the latter must be very sparingly used); mix all well together, bring it to the boiling point, and serve very hot.

_Time_,--10 minutes to boil, 5 minutes to simmer in the broth.

_Average cost_, 1d.

per head.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to March.

TO BOIL HARICOTS BLANCS, or WHITE HARICOT BEANS.

1119. INGREDIENTS.

--1 quart of white haricot beans, 2 quarts of soft water, 1 oz.

of butter, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.

--Put the beans into cold water, and let them soak from 2 to 4 hours, according to their age; then put them into cold water, salted in the above proportion, bring them to boil, and let them simmer very slowly until tender; pour the water away from them, let them stand by the side of the fire, with the lid of the saucepan partially off, to allow the beans to dry; then add 1 oz.

of butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt.

Shake the beans about for a minute or two, and serve: do not stir them with a spoon, for fear of breaking them to pieces.

_Time_.

--After the water boils, from 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 4d.

per quart.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter, when other vegetables are scarce.

_Note_.

--Haricots blancs, when new and fresh, should be put into boiling water, and do not require any soaking previous to dressing.

HARICOTS AND LENTILS.

--Although these vegetables are not much used in this country, yet in France, and other Catholic countries, from their peculiar constituent properties, they form an excellent substitute for animal food during Lent and _maigre_ days.

At the time of the prevalence of the Roman religion in this country, they were probably much more generally used than at present.

As reformations are often carried beyond necessity, possibly lentils may have fallen into disuse, as an article of diet amongst Protestants, for fear the use of them might be considered a sign of popery.

HARICOTS BLANCS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

1120. INGREDIENTS.

--1 quart of white haricot beans, 1/4 lb.

of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon.

[Illustration: HARICOT BEANS.

] _Mode_.

--Should the beans be very dry, soak them for an hour or two in cold water, and boil them until perfectly tender, as in the preceding recipe.

If the water should boil away, replenish it with a little more cold, which makes the skin of the beans tender.

Let them be very thoroughly done; drain them well; then add to them the butter, minced parsley, and a seasoning of pepper and salt.

Keep moving the stewpan over the fire without using a spoon, as this would break the beans; and, when the various ingredients are well mixed with them, squeeze in the lemon-juice, and serve very hot.

_Time_.

--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans.

_Average cost_, 4d.

per quart.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in winter.

HARICOT BEANS.

--This is the _haricot blanc_ of the French, and is a native of India.

It ripens readily, in dry summers, in most parts of Britain, but its culture has hitherto been confined to gardens in England; but in Germany and Switzerland it is grown in fields.

It is usually harvested by pulling up the plants, which, being dried, are stacked and thrashed.

The haulm is both of little bulk and little use, but the seed is used in making the esteemed French dish called haricot, with which it were well if the working classes of this country were acquainted.

There is, perhaps, no other vegetable dish so cheap and easily cooked, and, at the same time, so agreeable and nourishing.

The beans are boiled, and then mixed with a little fat or salt butter, and a little milk or water and flour.

From 3,840 parts of kidney-bean Einholff obtained 1,805 parts of matter analogous to starch, 351 of vegeto-animal matter, and 799 parts of mucilage.

HARICOT BEANS AND MINCED ONIONS.

1121. INGREDIENTS.

--1 quart of white haricot beans, 4 middling-sized onions, 1/4 pint of good brown gravy, pepper and salt to taste, a little flour.

_Mode_.

--Peel and mince the onions not too finely, and fry them in butter of a light brown colour; dredge over them a little flour, and add the gravy and a seasoning of pepper and salt.

Have ready a pint of haricot beans well boiled and drained; put them with the onions and gravy, mix all well together, and serve very hot.

_Time_.

--From 2 to 2-1/2 hours to boil the beans; 5 minutes to fry the onions.