Book of Household Management — 056 - Recipes. Chapter 25. Part 3.

1129. INGREDIENTS.

--4 or 5 Spanish onions, salt, and water.

_Mode_.

--Put the onions, with their skins on, into a saucepan of boiling water slightly salted, and let them boil quickly for an hour.

Then take them out, wipe them thoroughly, wrap each one in a piece of paper separately, and bake them in a moderate oven for 2 hours, or longer, should the onions be very large.

They may be served in their skins, and eaten with a piece of cold butter and a seasoning of pepper and salt; or they may be peeled, and a good brown gravy poured over them.

_Time_.

--1 hour to boil, 2 hours to bake.

_Average cost_, medium-sized, 2d.

each.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to January.

[Illustration: ONION.

] THE GENUS ALLIUM.

--The Onion, like the Leek, Garlic, and Shalot, belongs to the genus _Allium_, which is a numerous species of vegetable; and every one of them possesses, more or less, a volatile and acrid penetrating principle, pricking the thin transparent membrane of the eyelids; and all are very similar in their properties.

In the whole of them the bulb is the most active part, and any one of them may supply the place of the other; for they are all irritant, excitant, and vesicant.

With many, the onion is a very great favourite, and is considered an extremely nutritive vegetable.

The Spanish kind is frequently taken for supper, it being simply boiled, and then seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter.

Some dredge on a little flour, but many prefer it without this.

BURNT ONIONS FOR GRAVIES.

1130. INGREDIENTS.

--1/2 lb.

of onions, 1/3 pint of water, 1/2 lb.

of moist sugar, 1/3 pint of vinegar.

_Mode_.

--Peel and chop the onions fine, and put them into a stewpan (not tinned), with the water; let them boil for 5 minutes, then add the sugar, and simmer gently until the mixture becomes nearly black and throws out bubbles of smoke.

Have ready the above proportion of boiling vinegar, strain the liquor gradually to it, and keep stirring with a wooden spoon until it is well incorporated.

When cold, bottle for use.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 1 hour.

PROPERTIES OF THE ONION.

--The onion is possessed of a white, acrid, volatile oil, holding sulphur in solution, albumen, a good deal of uncrystallizable sugar and mucilage; phosphoric acid, both free and combined with lime; acetic acid, citrate of lime, and lignine.

Of all the species of allium, the onion has the volatile principle in the greatest degree; and hence it is impossible to separate the scales of the root without the eyes being affected.

The juice is sensibly acid, and is capable of being, by fermentation, converted into vinegar, and, mixed with water or the dregs of beer, yields, by distillation, an alcoholic liquor.

Although used as a common esculent, onions are not suited to all stomachs; there are some who cannot eat them either fried or roasted, whilst others prefer them boiled, which is the best way of using them, as, by the process they then undergo, they are deprived of their essential oil.

The pulp of roasted onions, with oil, forms an excellent anodyne and emollient poultice to suppurating tumours.

STEWED SPANISH ONIONS.

1131--INGREDIENTS.

--5 or 6 Spanish onions, 1 pint of good broth or gravy.

_Mode_.

--Peel the onions, taking care not to cut away too much of the tops or tails, or they would then fall to pieces; put them into a stewpan capable of holding them at the bottom without piling them one on the top of another; add the broth or gravy, and simmer _very gently_ until the onions are perfectly tender.

Dish them, pour the gravy round, and serve.

Instead of using broth, Spanish onions may be stewed with a large piece of butter: they must be done very gradually over a slow fire or hot-plate, and will produce plenty of gravy.

_Time_.

--To stew in gravy, 2 hours, or longer if very large.

_Average cost_.

--medium-sized, 2d.

each.

_Sufficient_ for 6 or 7 persons.

_Seasonable_ from September to January.

_Note_.

--Stewed Spanish onions are a favourite accompaniment to roast shoulder of mutton.

ORIGIN OF THE ONION.

--This vegetable is thought to have originally come from India, through Egypt, where it became an object of worship.

Thence it was transmitted to Greece, thence to Italy, and ultimately it was distributed throughout Europe, in almost every part of which it has, from time immemorial, been cultivated.

In warm climates it is found to be less acrid and much sweeter than in colder latitudes; and in Spain it is not at all unusual to see a peasant munching an onion, as an Englishman would an apple.

Spanish onions, which are imported to this country during the winter months, are, when properly roasted, perfectly sweet, and equal to many preserves.

BOILED PARSNIPS.

1132. INGREDIENTS.

--Parsnips; to each gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.

--Wash the parsnips, scrape them thoroughly, and, with the point of the knife, remove any black specks about them, and, should they be very large, cut the thick part into quarters.

Put them into a saucepan of boiling water salted in the above proportion, boil them rapidly until tender, which may be ascertained by thrusting a fork in them; take them up, drain them, and serve in a vegetable-dish.

This vegetable is usually served with salt fish, boiled pork, or boiled beef: when sent to table with the latter, a few should be placed alternately with carrots round the dish, as a garnish.

_Time_.

--Large parsnips, 1 to 1-1/2 hour; small ones, 1/2 to 1 hour.

_Average cost_, 1d.

each.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 for each person.

_Seasonable_ from October to May.

[Illustration: THE PARSNIP.

] THE PARSNIP.

--This vegetable is found wild in meadows all over Europe, and, in England, is met with very frequently on dry banks in a chalky soil.

In its wild state, the root is white, mucilaginous, aromatic, and sweet, with some degree of acrimony: when old, it has been known to cause vertigo.

Willis relates that a whole family fell into delirium from having eaten of its roots, and cattle never touch it in its wild state.

In domestic economy the parsnip is much used, and is found to be a highly nutritious vegetable.

In times of scarcity, an excellent bread has been made from the roots, and they also furnish an excellent wine, resembling the malmsey of Madeira and the Canaries: a spirit is also obtained from them in as great quantities as from carrots.

The composition of the parsnip-root has been found to be 79. 4 of water, 0. 9 starch and fibre, 6. 1 gum, 5. 5 sugar, and 2. 1 of albumen.

BOILED GREEN PEAS.

1133. INGREDIENTS.

--Green peas; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 _small_ teaspoonful of moist sugar, 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.

--This delicious vegetable, to be eaten in perfection, should be young, and not _gathered_ or _shelled_ long before it is dressed.

Shell the peas, wash them well in cold water, and drain them; then put them into a saucepan with plenty of _fast-boiling_ water, to which salt and _moist sugar_ have been added in the above proportion; let them boil quickly over a brisk fire, with the lid of the saucepan uncovered, and be careful that the smoke does not draw in.

When tender, pour them into a colander; put them into a hot vegetable-dish, and quite in the centre of the peas place a piece of butter, the size of a walnut.

Many cooks boil a small bunch of mint _with_ the _peas_, or garnish them with it, by boiling a few sprigs in a saucepan by themselves.

Should the peas be very old, and difficult to boil a good colour, a very tiny piece of soda may be thrown in the water previous to putting them in; but this must be very sparingly used, as it causes the peas, when boiled, to have a smashed and broken appearance.

With young peas, there is not the slightest occasion to use it.

_Time_.

--Young peas, 10 to 15 minutes; the large sorts, such as marrowfats, &c. , 18 to 24 minutes; old peas, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, when cheapest, 6d.

per peck; when first in season, 1s.

to 1s.

6d.

per peck.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 peck of unshelled peas for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

ORIGIN OF THE PEA.

--All the varieties of garden peas which are cultivated have originated from the _Pisum sativum_, a native of the south of Europe; and field peas are varieties of _Pisum arvense_.

The Everlasting Pea is _Lathyrus latifolius_, an old favourite in flower-gardens.

It is said to yield an abundance of honey to bees, which are remarkably fond of it.

In this country the pea has been grown from time immemorial; but its culture seems to have diminished since the more general introduction of herbage, plants, and roots.

GREEN PEAS A LA FRANCAISE.

1134. INGREDIENTS.

--2 quarts of green peas, 3 oz.

of fresh butter, a bunch of parsley, 6 green onions, flour, a small lump of sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of flour.

_Mode_.

--Shell sufficient fresh-gathered peas to fill 2 quarts; put them into cold water, with the above proportion of butter, and stir them about until they are well covered with the butter; drain them in a colander, and put them in a stewpan, with the parsley and onions; dredge over them a little flour, stir the peas well, and moisten them with boiling water; boil them quickly over a large fire for 20 minutes, or until there is no liquor remaining.

Dip a small lump of sugar into some water, that it may soon melt; put it with the peas, to which add 1/2 teaspoonful of salt.

Take a piece of butter the size of a walnut, work it together with a teaspoonful of flour; and add this to the peas, which should be boiling when it is put in.

Keep shaking the stewpan, and, when the peas are nicely thickened, dress them high in the dish, and serve.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 6d.

per peck.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

VARIETIES OF THE PEA.

--The varieties of the Pea are numerous;

but they may be divided into two classes--those grown for the ripened seed, and those grown for gathering in a green state.

The culture of the latter is chiefly confined to the neighbourhoods of large towns, and may be considered as in part rather to belong to the operations of the gardener than to those of the agriculturist.

The grey varieties are the early grey, the late grey, and the purple grey; to which some add the Marlborough grey and the horn grey.

The white varieties grown in fields are the pearl, early Charlton, golden hotspur, the common white, or Suffolk, and other Suffolk varieties.

STEWED GREEN PEAS.

1135. INGREDIENTS.

--1 quart of peas, 1 Lettuce, 1 onion, 2 oz.

of butter, pepper and salt to taste, 1 egg, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

_Mode_.

--Shell the peas, and cut the onion and lettuce into slices; put these into a stewpan, with the butter, pepper, and salt, but with no more water than that which hangs round the lettuce from washing.

Stew the whole very gently for rather more than 1 hour; then stir to it a well-beaten egg, and about 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered sugar.

When the peas, &c. , are nicely thickened, serve but, after the egg is added, do not allow them to boil.

_Time_.

--1-1/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 6d.

per peck.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ from June to the end of August.

[Illustration: GREEN PEA.

] THE SWEET-PEA AND THE HEATH OR WOOD-PEA.

--The well-known sweet-pea forms a fine covering to a trellis, or lattice-work in a flower-garden.

Its gay and fragrant flowers, with its rambling habit, render it peculiarly adapted for such a purpose.

The wood-pea, or heath-pea, is found in the heaths of Scotland, and the Highlanders of that country are extremely partial to them, and dry and chew them to give a greater relish to their whiskey.

They also regard them as good against chest complaints, and say that by the use of them they are enabled to withstand hunger and thirst for a long time.

The peas have a sweet taste, somewhat like the root of liquorice, and, when boiled, have an agreeable flavour, and are nutritive.

In times of scarcity they have served as an article of food.

When well boiled, a fork will pass through them; and, slightly dried, they are roasted, and in Holland and Flanders served up like chestnuts.

BAKED POTATOES.

1136. INGREDIENTS.

--Potatoes.

[Illustration: BAKED POTATOES SERVED IN NAPKIN.

] _Mode_.

--Choose large potatoes, as much of a size as possible; wash them in lukewarm water, and scrub them well, for the browned skin of a baked potato is by many persons considered the better part of it.

Put them into a moderate oven, and bake them for about 2 hours, turning them three or four times whilst they are cooking.

Serve them in a napkin immediately they are done, as, if kept a long time in the oven, they have a shrivelled appearance.

Potatoes may also be roasted before the fire, in an American oven; but when thus cooked, they must be done very slowly.

Do not forget to send to table with them a piece of cold butter.

_Time_.

--Large potatoes, in a hot oven 1-1/2 hour to 2 hours; in a cool oven, 2 to 2-1/2 hours.

_Average cost_, 4s.

per bushel.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 2 to each person.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season.

POTATO-SUGAR.

--This sugary substance, found in the tubers of potatoes, is obtained in the form of syrup or treacle, and has not yet been crystallized.

It resembles the sugar of grapes, has a very sweet taste, and may be used for making sweetmeats, and as a substitute for honey.

Sixty pounds of potatoes, yielding eight pounds of dry starch, will produce seven and a half pounds of sugar.

In Russia it is extensively made, as good, though of less consistency than the treacle obtained from cane-sugar.

A spirit is also distilled from the tubers, which resembles brandy, but is milder, and has a flavour as if it were charged with the odour of violets or raspberries.

In France this manufacture is carried on pretty extensively, and five hundred pounds of the tubers will produce twelve quarts of spirit, the pulp being given to cattle.

TO BOIL POTATOES.

1137. INGREDIENTS.

--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.

--Choose potatoes of an equal size, pare them, take out all the eyes and specks, and as they are peeled, throw them into cold water.

Put them into a saucepan, with sufficient cold water to cover them, with salt in the above proportion, and let them boil gently until tender.

Ascertain when they are done by thrusting a fork in them, and take them up the moment they feel soft through; for if they are left in the water afterwards, they become waxy or watery.

Drain away the water, put the saucepan by the side of the fire, with the lid partially uncovered, to allow the steam to escape, and let the potatoes get thoroughly dry, and do not allow them to get burnt.

Their superfluous moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes, if a good sort, should be perfectly mealy and dry.

Potatoes vary so much in quality and size, that it is difficult to give the exact time for boiling; they should be attentively watched, and probed with a fork, to ascertain when they are cooked.

Send them to table quickly, and very hot, and with an opening in the cover of the dish, that a portion of the steam may evaporate, and not fall back on the potatoes.

_Time_.

--Moderate-sized old potatoes, 15 to 20 minutes after the water boils; large ones, 1/2 hour to 35 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4s.

per bushel.

_Sufficient_ for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season.

_Note_.

--To keep potatoes hot, after draining the water from them, put a folded cloth or flannel (kept for the purpose) on the top of them, keeping the saucepan-lid partially uncovered.

This will absorb the moisture, and keep them hot some time without spoiling.

THE POTATO.

--The potato belongs to the family of the _Solanaceae_, the greater number of which inhabit the tropics, and the remainder are distributed over the temperate regions of both hemispheres, but do not extend to the arctic and antarctic zones.

The whole of the family are suspicious; a great number are narcotic, and many are deleterious.

The roots partake of the properties of the plants, and are sometimes even more active.

The tubercles of such as produce them, are amylaceous and nutritive, as in those of the potato.

The leaves are generally narcotic; but they lose this principle in boiling, as is the case with the _Solanum nigrum_, which are used as a vegetable when cooked.

TO BOIL POTATOES IN THEIR JACKETS.

1138. INGREDIENTS.

--10 or 12 potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water, allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.

--To obtain this wholesome and delicious vegetable cooked in perfection, it should be boiled and sent to table with the skin on.

In Ireland, where, perhaps, the cooking of potatoes is better understood than in any country, they are always served so.

Wash the potatoes well, and if necessary, use a clean scrubbing-brush to remove the dirt from them; and if possible, choose the potatoes so that they may all be as nearly the same size as possible.

When thoroughly cleansed, fill the saucepan half full with them, and just cover the potatoes with cold water, salted in the above proportion: they are more quickly boiled with a small quantity of water, and, besides, are more savoury than when drowned in it.

Bring them to boil, then draw the pan to the side of the fire, and let them simmer gently until tender.

Ascertain when they are done by probing them with a fork; then pour off the water, uncover the saucepan, and let the potatoes dry by the side of the fire, taking care not to let them burn.

Peel them quickly, put them in a very hot vegetable-dish, either with or without a napkin, and serve very quickly.

After potatoes are cooked, they should never be entirely covered up, as the steam, instead of escaping, falls down on them, and makes them watery and insipid.

In Ireland they are usually served up with the skins on, and a small plate is placed by the side of each guest.

_Time_.

--Moderate-sized potatoes, with their skins on, 20 to 25 minutes after the water boils; large potatoes, 25 minutes to 3/4 hour, or longer; 5 minutes to dry them.

_Average cost_, 4s.

per bushel.

Sufficient for 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not good just before and whilst new potatoes are in season.

ANALYSIS OF THE POTATO.

--Next to the cereals, the potato is the most valuable plant for the production of human food.

Its tubers, according to analysis conducted by Mr. Fromberg, in the laboratory of the Agricultural Chemical Association in Scotland, contain the following ingredients:--75. 52 per cent.

of water, 15. 72 starch, O. 55 dextrine, 3. 3 of impure saccharine matter, and 3. 25 of fibre with coagulated albumen.

In a dried state the tuber contains 64. 2 per cent, of starch, 2. 25 of dextrine, 13. 47 of impure saccharine matter, 5. 77 of caseine, gluten, and albumen, 1 of fatty matter, and 13. 31 of fibre with coagulated albumen.

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES.

1139. INGREDIENTS.

--Potatoes; to each 1/2 gallon of water allow 1 heaped tablespoonful of salt.

_Mode_.

--Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, as they are never good when they have been out of the ground some time.

Well wash them, rub off the skins with a coarse cloth, and put them into _boiling_ water salted in the above proportion.

Let them boil until tender; try them with a fork, and when done, pour the water away from them; let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the saucepan partially uncovered, and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry, put them into a hot vegetable-dish, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; pile the potatoes over this, and serve.

If the potatoes are too old to have the skins rubbed off, boil them in their jackets; drain, peel, and serve them as above, with a piece of butter placed in the midst of them.

_Time_.

--1/4 to 1/2 hour, according to the size.

_Average cost_, in full season, 1d.

per lb.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 3 lbs.

for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in May and June, but may be had, forced, in March.

POTATO STARCH.

--This fecula has a beautiful white crystalline appearance, and is inodorous, soft to the touch, insoluble in cold, but readily soluble in boiling water.

It is on this starch that the nutritive properties of the tubers depend.

As an aliment, it is well adapted for invalids and persons of delicate constitution.

It may be used in the form of arrow-root, and eaten with milk or sugar.

For pastry of all kinds it is more light and easier of digestion than that made with flour of wheat.

In confectionery it serves to form creams and jellies, and in cookery may be used to thicken soups and sauces.

It accommodates itself to the chest and stomach of children, for whom it is well adapted; and it is an aliment that cannot be too generally used, as much on account of its wholesomeness as its cheapness, and the ease with which it is kept, which are equal, if not superior, to all the much-vaunted exotic feculae; as, salep, tapioca, sago, and arrow-root.

TO STEAM POTATOES.

1140. INGREDIENTS.

--Potatoes; boiling water.

_Mode_.

--This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue, particularly where they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very convenient.

Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water as they are peeled, then put them into a steamer.

Place the steamer over a saucepan of boiling water, and steam the potatoes from 20 to 40 minutes, according to the size and sort.

When a fork goes easily through them, they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve very quickly.

_Time_.

--20 to 40 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4s.

per bushel.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 2 large potatoes to each person.

_Seasonable_ all the year, but not so good whilst new potatoes are in season.

USES OF THE POTATO.

--Potatoes boiled and beaten along with sour milk form a sort of cheese, which is made in Saxony; and, when kept in close vessels, may be preserved for several years.

It is generally supposed that the water in which potatoes are boiled is injurious; and as instances are recorded where cattle having drunk it were seriously affected, it may be well to err on the safe side, and avoid its use for any alimentary purpose.

Potatoes which have been exposed to the air and become green, are very unwholesome.

Cadet de Vaux asserts that potatoes will clean linen as well as soap; and it is well known that the berries of the _S.

saponaceum_ are used in Peru for the same purpose.

HOW TO USE COLD POTATOES.

1141. INGREDIENTS.

--The remains of cold potatoes; to every lb.

allow 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 2 ditto of minced onions, 1 oz.

of butter, milk.

_Mode_.

--Mash the potatoes with a fork until perfectly free from lumps;

stir in the other ingredients, and add sufficient milk to moisten them well; press the potatoes into a mould, and bake in a moderate oven until nicely brown, which will be in from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

Turn them out of the mould, and serve.

_Time_.

--20 minutes to 1/2 hour.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

POTATO BREAD.

--The manner in which this is made is very simple.

The adhesive tendency of the flour of the potato acts against its being baked or kneaded without being mixed with wheaten flour or meal; it may, however, be made into cakes in the following manner:--A small wooden frame, nearly square, is laid on a pan like a frying-pan and is grooved, and so constructed that, by means of a presser or lid introduced into the groove, the cake is at once fashioned, according to the dimensions of the mould.

The frame containing the farina may be almost immediately withdrawn after the mould is formed upon the pan;

because, from the consistency imparted to the incipient cake by the heat, it will speedily admit of being safely handled: it must not, however, be fried too hastily.

It will then eat very palatably, and might from time to time be soaked for puddings, like tapioca, or might be used like the cassada-cake, for, when well buttered and toasted, it will be found an excellent accompaniment to breakfast.

In Scotland, cold boiled potatoes are frequently squeezed up and mixed with flour or oatmeal, and an excellent cake, or _scon_, obtained.

FRIED POTATOES (French Fashion).

1142. INGREDIENTS.

--Potatoes, hot butter or clarified dripping, salt.

_Mode_.

--Peel and cut the potatoes into thin slices, as nearly the same size as possible; make some butter or dripping quite hot in a frying-pan; put in the potatoes, and fry them on both sides of a nice brown.

When they are crisp and done, take them up, place them on a cloth before the fire to drain the grease from them, and serve very hot, after sprinkling them with salt.

These are delicious with rump-steak, and, in France, are frequently served thus as a breakfast dish.

The remains of cold potatoes may also be sliced and fried by the above recipe, but the slices must be cut a little thicker.

_Time_.

--Sliced raw potatoes, 5 minutes; cooked potatoes, 5 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4s.

per bushel.

_Sufficient_,--6 sliced potatoes for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.