Book of Household Management — 068 - Recipes. Chapter 29. Part 2.

[Illustration: JELLY-BAG.

] _Mode_.

--The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set.

Procure from the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair;

slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove every particle of scum as it rises.

When it is well skimmed, boil it very gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool place to set.

As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at the top.

To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6 oz.

of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but _do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm_.

Let it boil about 10 minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover it closely, and let it remain 1/2 hour near the fire.

Dip the jelly-bag into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the jelly from setting before it has run through the bag.

Place a basin underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again.

This stock is the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied in innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits.

To insure the jelly being firm when turned out, 1/2 oz.

of isinglass clarified might be added to the above proportion of stock.

Substitutes for calf's feet are now frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble in preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two of the principal materials employed; but, although they may _look_ as nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate, having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue, particularly when made with gelatine.

_Time_.

--About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify it,--1/4 hour to boil, 1/2 hour to stand in the saucepan covered.

_Average cost_.

--Calf's feet may be purchased for 6d.

each when veal is in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce.

_Sufficient_.

--2 calf's feet should make 1 quart of stock.

_Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year.

HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.

--The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly.

Care should be taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it against unequal filtration.

The most convenient mode of using the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it at equal distances.

The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use.

The form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap.

COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLIES.

(More Economical than Calf's Feet.

) 1412. INGREDIENTS.

--2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.

--Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled;

split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them well in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises, and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor is reduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity, and put it in a cool place.

Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about 1/2 oz.

of isinglass to each quart.

This stock should be made the day before it is required for use.

Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7 hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock.

They should be put on in 2 quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half.

Make this also the day before it is required.

_Time_.

--7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the shank-bones.

_Average cost_, from 4d.

to 6d.

each.

_Sufficient_.

--2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY.

(_Substitutes for Calf's Feet_.

) 1413. INGREDIENTS.

--3 oz.

of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.

--Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half.

Carefully remove the scum as it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for use.

If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag.

Rather more than 1/2 oz.

of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong calf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz.

for the same quantity of fruit juice.

As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is difficult to give the exact proportions.

The larger the mould, the stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass must be used than if the mixture were frozen.

This forms a stock for all kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways.

_Time_.

--1-1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c. , to fill two moderate-sized moulds.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.

--The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c. , and then run through the bag.

ISINGLASS.

--The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale dealers in isinglass in London.

In choosing isinglass for domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant odour, and which dissolves most readily in water.

The inferior kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes.

Isinglass is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold water, and some into vinegar.

In the boiling water the isinglass will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy," and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like.

If the isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the commoner sorts of gelatine,--for isinglass is classed amongst gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden.

HOW TO MOULD BOTTLED JELLIES.

1414. Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine.

Pour the jelly into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside, put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly.

The jelly should then slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm.

It may be garnished as taste dictates.

TO CLARIFY SYRUP FOR JELLIES.

1415. INGREDIENTS.

--To every quart of water allow 2 lbs.

of loaf sugar;

the white of 1 egg.

_Mode_.

--Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire, and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped up with a little water.

Whisk the whole well together, and simmer very gently until it has thrown up all the scum.

Take this off as it rises, strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it for use.

CALF'S-FEET JELLY.

1416. INGREDIENTS.

--1 quart of calf's-feet stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb.

of sugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5 eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz.

of isinglass.

_Mode_.

--Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking care to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface.

Put it into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remaining ingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed on the fire.

Then simmer the mixture gently for 1/4 hour, _but do not stir it after it begins to warm_.

Throw in a teacupful of cold water, boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of the fire for about 1/2 hour, but do not let it boil again.

In simmering, the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the slightest degree after it is heated.

The isinglass should be added when the jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer for turning out.

Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a stand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin underneath it, and run the jelly through it.

Should it not be perfectly clear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is obtained.

Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set.

If ice is at hand, surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be firmer when turned out.

In summer it is necessary to have ice in which to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a great deal of isinglass is used.

When wanted for table, dip the moulds in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip out easily.

It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled high in glasses.

Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or tin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition being often spoiled by using the latter.

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.

] To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted for the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of calf's feet.

_Time_.

--20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 1/2 hour to stand covered.

_Average cost_, reckoning the feet at 6d.

each, 3s.

6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.

--As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other ingredients.

Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to.

SHERRY.

--There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there are various degrees of each.

Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour, and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of the agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel.

When new, it is harsh and fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years.

Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that it is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experiments on wines do not fully confirm this opinion.

CANNELONS, or FRIED PUFFS.

(_Sweet Entremets_.

) 1417. INGREDIENTS.

--1/2 lb.

of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any kind of preserve that may be preferred; hot lard.

_Mode_.

--Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, with jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very pretty and elegant dish.

Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205;

roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2 inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over _twice;_ slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in the frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a nice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done.

Drain them before the fire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve.

These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laid in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded and fried in the same manner as stated above.

_Time_.

--About 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_,--1/2 lb.

of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons.

_Seasonable_, with jam, at any time.

CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1418. INGREDIENTS.

--A few slices of rather stale bread 1/2 inch thick, clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with about 2 dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry.

[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

] _Mode_.

--Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the height of the mould, and about 1-1/2 inch wide; dip the bread in clarified butter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich);

place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrow strips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that no juice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to the mould.

Brush the _interior_ over with white of egg (this will assist to make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a round piece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom;

slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces;

put a plate on the top, and bake the _charlotte_ in a brisk oven, of a light colour.

Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top, and pour round it a little melted apricot jam.

_Time_.

--40 to 50 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

AN EASY METHOD OF MAKING A CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1419. INGREDIENTS.

--1/2 lb.

of flour, 1/4 lb.

of butter, 1/4 lb.

of powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass of raisin-wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2 dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.

--Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder;

moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper consistency, and bake it in a round tin.

When cold, scoop out the middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent them breaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmed into neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficient raisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soak them well.

Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395;

place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and a layer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar and lemon-juice; pile it on the top of the _charlotte_, and garnish it with pieces of clear apple jelly.

This dish is served cold, but may be eaten hot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with bright jelly just before it is sent to table.

_Time_.

--1 hour to bake the cake.

_Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE.

1420. INGREDIENTS.

--9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sized apples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of juice, moist sugar to taste.

_Mode_.

--Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, without the crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cut into thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and juice, and sweeten with moist sugar.

Place another layer of bread and butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dish is full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve the top from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than 3/4 hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.

_Time_.

--3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

(_An Elegant Sweet Entremets_.

) 1421. INGREDIENTS.

--About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream, flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of pounded sugar, 1/2 oz.

of isinglass.

_Mode_.

--Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they are sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg, and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or rosette.

Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them so closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, and place this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg.

Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and melted isinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake cut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain till ready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve.

1 tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, would nicely flavour the above proportion of cream.

For arranging the biscuits in the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit in nicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out, there may be something firm to rest upon.

Great care and attention is required in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burst the case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity of egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so prevent the charlotte from coming away properly.

_Time_.

--5 minutes in the oven.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s.

per pint, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 charlotte.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

CREAM A LA VALOIS.

1422. INGREDIENTS.

--4 sponge-cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz.

of isinglass.

_Mode_.

--Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, with preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherry mixed with a little brandy.

Sweeten and flavour the cream with the lemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved in a little water, and beat up the cream well.

Place a little in an oiled mould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould with the remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish.

By oiling the mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn out more easily than when merely dipped in cold water.

_Average cost_, 3s.

6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a 1-1/2 pint mould.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

BOILED CUSTARDS.

1423. INGREDIENTS.

--1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz.

of loaf sugar, 3 laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence of vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

[Illustration: CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.

] _Mode_.

--Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rind flavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the side of the fire until it is well flavoured.

Bring it to the point of boiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when the milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and _strain_ this mixture into a jug.

Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire;

keep stirring the custard _one way_ until it thickens; but on no account allow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be full of lumps.

Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top, and the dish is ready for table.

To make custards look and eat better, ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to the flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinary eggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard.

When desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omitting the whites.

_Time_.

1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir the custard.

_Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 8 custard-glasses.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

GINGER APPLES.

(_A pretty Supper or Dessert Dish_.

) 1424. INGREDIENTS.

--1-1/2 oz.

of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3 lbs.

of apples, 2 lbs.

of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons.

_Mode_.

--Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over sufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut the apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar and the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together _very gently_ until the apples are transparent, but not broken.

Serve cold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or preserved ginger.

_Time_.

--3 days to soak the ginger; about 3/4 hour to simmer the apples very gently.

_Average cost_, 2s, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 dishes.

_Seasonable_ from July to March.

FRENCH PANCAKES.

1425. INGREDIENTS.

--2 eggs, 2 oz.

of butter, 2 oz.

of sifted sugar, 2 oz.

of flour, 1/2 pint of new milk.

_Mode_.

--Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour, and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirring and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates, and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes.

Serve with a cut lemon and sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of preserve or marmalade between each.

_Time_.

--20 minutes.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

DUTCH FLUMMERY.

1426. INGREDIENTS.

--1-1/2 oz.

of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or raisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste.

_Mode_.

--Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan, and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a basin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with pounded sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one way until it thickens; but _take care that it does not boil_.

Strain it into a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and put it in a cool place to set.

A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish: it is better if made the day before it is required for table.

_Time_.

--1/4 hour to simmer the isinglass; about 1/4 hour to stir the mixture over the fire.

_Average cost_, 4s.

6d.

, if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown.

The latter are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint.

Pale sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people.

The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the London dealers.

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE.

1427. INGREDIENTS.

--4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1 teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz.

of the best chocolate.

_Mode_.

--Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and put them into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these ingredients for 5 minutes.

Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with the yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a round cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes.

Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over the top of the soufflé, and send it immediately to table.

The proper appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it is served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamander over the soufflé until it is placed on the table.

If allowed to stand after it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it falls almost immediately.