Book of Household Management — 075 - Recipes. Chapter 31. Part 3.

MELONS.

1559. --This fruit is rarely preserved or cooked in any way, and should be sent to table on a dish garnished with leaves or flowers, as fancy dictates.

A border of any other kind of small fruit, arranged round the melon, has a pretty effect, the colour the former contrasting nicely with the melon.

Plenty of pounded sugar should be served with it; and the fruit should be cut lengthwise, in moderate-sized slices.

In America, it is frequently eaten with pepper and salt.

_Average cost_,--English, in full season, 3s.

6d.

to 5s.

each; when scarce, 10s.

to 15s.

; _seasonable_, June to August.

French, 2s.

to 3s.

6d.

each; _seasonable_, June and July.

Dutch, 9d.

to 2s.

each;

_seasonable_, July and August.

MELON.

--The melon is a most delicious fruit, succulent, cool, and high-flavoured.

With us, it is used only at the dessert, and is generally eaten with sugar, ginger, or pepper; but, in France, it is likewise served up at dinner as a sauce for boiled meats.

It grows wild in Tartary, and has been lately found in abundance on the sandy plains of Jeypoor.

It was brought originally from Asia by the Romans, and is said to have been common in England in the time of Edward III.

, though it is supposed that it was lost again, as well as the cucumber, during the wars of York and Lancaster.

The best kind, called the _Cantaloupe_, from the name of a place near Rome where it was first cultivated in Europe, is a native of Armenia, where it grows so plentifully that a horse-load may be bought for a crown.

PRESERVED MULBERRIES.

1560. INGREDIENTS.

--To 2 lbs.

of fruit and 1 pint of juice allow 2-1/2 lbs.

of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.

--Put some of the fruit into a preserving-pan, and simmer it gently until the juice is well drawn.

Strain it through a bag, measure it, and to every pint allow the above proportion of sugar and fruit.

Put the sugar into the preserving-pan, moisten it with the juice, boil it up, skim well, and then add the mulberries, which should be ripe, but not soft enough to break to a pulp.

Let them stand in the syrup till warm through, then set them on the fire to boil gently; when half done, turn them carefully into an earthen pan, and let them remain till the next day; then boil them as before, and when the syrup is thick, and becomes firm when cold, put the preserve into pots.

In making this, care should be taken not to break the mulberries: this may be avoided by very gentle stirring, and by simmering the fruit very slowly.

_Time_.

--3/4 hour to extract the juice;

1/4 hour to boil the mulberries the first time, 1/4 hour the second time.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.

[Illustration: MULBERRY.

] MULBERRY.

--Mulberries are esteemed for their highly aromatic flavour, and their sub-acid nature.

They are considered as cooling, laxative, and generally wholesome.

This fruit was very highly esteemed by the Romans, who appear to have preferred it to every other.

The mulberry-tree is stated to have been introduced into this country in 1548, being first planted at Sion House, where the original trees still thrive.

The planting of them was much encouraged by King James I. about 1605; and considerable attempts were made at that time to rear silkworms on a large scale for the purpose of making silk; but these endeavours have always failed, the climate being scarcely warm enough.

TO PRESERVE MORELLO CHERRIES.

1561. INGREDIENTS.

--To every lb.

of cherries allow 1-1/4 lb.

of sugar, 1 gill of water.

_Mode_.

--Select ripe cherries; pick off the stalks, and reject all that have any blemishes.

Boil the sugar and water together for 5 minutes; put in the cherries, and boil them for 10 minutes, removing the scum as it rises.

Then turn the fruit, &c. into a pan, and let it remain until the next day, when boil it all again for another 10 minutes, and, if necessary, skim well.

Put the cherries into small pots; pour over them the syrup, and, when cold, cover down with oiled papers, and the tops of the jars with tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg, and keep in a dry place.

_Time_.

--Altogether, 25 minutes to boil.

_Average cost_, from 8d.

to 10d.

per lb.

pot.

_Seasonable_.

--Make this in July or August.

THE CHERRY-TREE IN ROME.

--The Cherry-tree was introduced into Rome by Lucullus about seventy years before the Christian era; but the capital of the world knew not at first how to appreciate this present as it deserved; for the cherry-tree was propagated so slowly in Italy, that more than a century after its introduction it was far from being generally cultivated.

The Romans distinguished three principal species of cherries--the _Apronian_, of a bright red, with a firm and delicate pulp; the _Lutatian_, very black and sweet; the _Caecilian_, round and stubby, and much esteemed.

The cherry embellished the third course in Rome and the second at Athens.

PRESERVED NECTARINES.

1562. INGREDIENTS.

--To every lb.

of sugar allow 1/4 pint of water;

nectarines.

_Mode_.

--Divide the nectarines in two, take out the stones, and make a strong syrup with sugar and water in the above proportion.

Put in the nectarines, and boil them until they have thoroughly imbibed the sugar.

Keep the fruit as whole as possible, and turn it carefully into a pan.

The next day boil it again for a few minutes, take out the nectarines, put them into jars, boil the syrup quickly for 5 minutes, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, cover the preserve down.

The syrup and preserve must be carefully skimmed, or it will not be clear.

_Time_.

--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water; 20 minutes to boil the fruit the first time, 10 minutes the second time; 5 minutes to boil the syrup.

_Seasonable_ in August and September, but cheapest in September.

STEWED NORMANDY PIPPINS.

1563. INGREDIENTS.

--1 lb.

of Normandy pippins, 1 quart of water, 1/2 teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, 1/2 teaspoonful of ground ginger, 1 lb.

of moist sugar, 1 lemon.

_Mode_.

--Well wash the pippins, and put them into 1 quart of water with the above proportion of cinnamon and ginger, and let them stand 12 hours; then put these all together into a stewpan, with the lemon sliced thinly, and half the moist sugar.

Let them boil slowly until the pippins are half done; then add the remainder of the sugar, and simmer until they are quite tender.

Serve on glass dishes for dessert.

_Time_.

--2 to 3 hours.

_Average cost_, 1s.

6d.

_Seasonable_.

--Suitable for a winter dish.

ICED ORANGES.

1564. INGREDIENTS.

--Oranges; to every lb.

of pounded loaf sugar allow the whites of 2 eggs.

_Mode_.

--Whisk the whites of the eggs well, stir in the sugar, and beat this mixture for 1/4 hour.

Skin the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible without injuring the pulp of the fruit; pass a thread through the centre of each orange, dip them into the sugar, and tie them to a stick.

Place this stick across the oven, and let the oranges remain until dry, when they will have the appearance of balls of ice.

They make a pretty dessert or supper dish.

Care must be taken not to have the oven too fierce, or the oranges would scorch and acquire a brown colour, which would entirely spoil their appearance.

_Time_.

--From 1/2 to 1 hour to dry in a moderate oven.

_Average cost_, 1-1/2d.

each.

_Sufficient_.

--1/2 lb.

of sugar to ice 12 oranges.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

THE FIRST ORANGE-TREE IN FRANCE.

--The first Orange-tree cultivated in the centre of France was to be seen a few years ago at Fontainebleau.

It was called _Le Connétable_ (the Constable), because it had belonged to the Connétable de Bourbon, and had been confiscated, together with all property belonging to that prince, after his revolt against his sovereign.

COMPOTE OF ORANGES.

1565. INGREDIENTS.

--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, 6 oranges.

_Mode_.

--Peel the oranges, remove as much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into small pieces without breaking the thin skin with which they are surrounded.

Make the syrup by recipe No. 1512, adding the rind of the orange cut into thin narrow strips.

When the syrup has been well skimmed, and is quite clear, put in the pieces of orange, and simmer them for 5 minutes.

Take them out carefully with a spoon without breaking them, and arrange them on a glass dish.

Reduce the syrup by boiling it quickly until thick; let it cool a little, pour it over the oranges, and, when cold, they will be ready for table.

[Illustration: COMPÔTE OF ORANGES.

] _Time_.

--10 minutes to boil the syrup; 5 minutes to simmer the oranges;

5 minutes to reduce the syrup.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

THE ORANGE IN PORTUGAL.

--The Orange known under the name of "Portugal Orange" comes originally from China.

Not more than two centuries ago, the Portuguese brought thence the first scion, which has multiplied so prodigiously that we now see entire forests of orange-trees in Portugal.

ORANGE AND CLOVES.

--It appears to have been the custom formerly, in England, to make new year's presents with oranges stuck full with cloves.

We read in one of Ben Jonson's pieces,--the "Christmas Masque,"--"He has an orange and rosemary, but not a clove to stick in it."

ORANGE MARMALADE.

I.

1566. INGREDIENTS.

--Equal weight of fine loaf sugar and Seville oranges;

to 12 oranges allow 1 pint of water.

_Mode_.

--Let there be an equal weight of loaf sugar and Seville oranges, and allow the above proportion of water to every dozen oranges.

Peel them carefully, remove a little of the white pith, and boil the rinds in water 2 hours, changing the water three times to take off a little of the bitter taste.

Break the pulp into small pieces, take out all the pips, and cut the boiled rind into chips.

Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil this well, skim it, and, when clear, put in the pulp and chips.

Boil all together from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour; pour it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg.

The juice and grated rind of 2 lemons to every dozen of oranges, added with the pulp and chips to the syrup, are a very great improvement to this marmalade.

_Time_.

--2 hours to boil the orange-rinds; 10 minutes to boil the syrup;

20 minutes to 1/2 hour to boil the marmalade.

_Average cost_, from 6d.

to 8d.

per lb.

pot.

_Seasonable_.

--This should be made in March or April, as Seville oranges are then in perfection.

II.

1567. INGREDIENTS.

--Equal weight of Seville oranges and sugar; to every lb.

of sugar allow 1/2 pint of water.

_Mode_.

--Weigh the sugar and oranges, score the skin across, and take it off in quarters.

Boil these quarters in a muslin bag in water until they are quite soft, and they can be pierced easily with the head of a pin;

then cut them into chips about 1 inch long, and as thin as possible.

Should there be a great deal of white stringy pulp, remove it before cutting the rind into chips.

Split open the oranges, scrape out the best part of the pulp, with the juice, rejecting the white pith and pips.

Make a syrup with the sugar and water; boil it until clear; then put in the chips, pulp, and juice, and boil the marmalade from 20 minutes to 1/2 hour, removing all the scum as it rises.

In boiling the syrup, clear it carefully from scum before the oranges are added to it.

_Time_.

--2 hours to boil the rinds, 10 minutes the syrup, 20 minutes to 1/2 hour the marmalade.

_Average cost_, 6d.

to 8d.

per lb.

pot.

_Seasonable_.

--Make this in March or April, when Seville oranges are in perfection.

AN EASY WAY OF MAKING ORANGE MARMALADE.

1568. INGREDIENTS.

--To every lb.

of pulp allow 1-1/2 lb.

of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.

--Choose some fine Seville oranges; put them whole into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they become perfectly tender, changing the water 2 or 3 times; drain them, take off the rind, remove the pips from the pulp, weigh it, and to every lb.

allow 1-1/2 of loaf sugar and 1/2 pint of the water the oranges were last boiled in.

Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes; put in the pulp, boil for another 10 minutes; then add the peel cut into strips, and boil the marmalade for another 10 minutes, which completes the process.

Pour it into jars; let it cool; then cover down with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg.

_Time_.

--2 hours to boil the oranges; altogether 1/2 hour to boil the marmalade.

_Average cost_, from 6d.

to 8d.

per lb.

pot.

_Seasonable_--Make this in March or April.

ORANGE MARMALADE MADE WITH HONEY.

1569. INGREDIENTS.

--To 1 quart of the juice and pulp of Seville oranges allow 2 lbs.

of honey, 1 lb.

of the rind.

_Mode_.

--Peel the oranges and boil the rind in water until tender, and cut it into strips.

Take away the pips from the juice and pulp, and put it with the honey and chips into a preserving-pan; boil all together for about 1/2 hour, or until the marmalade is of the proper consistency; put it into pots, and, when cold, cover down with bladders.

_Time_.

--2 hours to boil the rind, 1/2 hour the marmalade.

_Average cost_, from 7d.

to 9d.

per lb.

pot.

_Seasonable_.

--Make this in March or April.

TO PRESERVE ORANGES.

1570. INGREDIENTS.

--Oranges; to every lb.

of juice and pulp allow 2 lbs.

of loaf sugar; to every pint of water 1/2 lb.

of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.

--Wholly grate or peel the oranges, taking off only the thin outside portion of the rind.

Make a small incision where the stalk is taken out, squeeze out as much of the juice as can be obtained, and preserve it in a basin with the pulp that accompanies it.

Put the oranges into cold water; let them stand for 3 days, changing the water twice; then boil them in fresh water till they are very tender, and put them to drain.

Make a syrup with the above proportion of sugar and water, sufficient to cover the oranges; let them stand in it for 2 or 3 days; then drain them well.

Weigh the juice and pulp, allow double their weight of sugar, and boil them together until the scum ceases to rise, which must all be carefully removed; put in the oranges, boil them for 10 minutes, place them in jars, pour over them the syrup, and, when cold, cover down.

They will be fit for use in a week.

_Time_.

--3 days for the oranges to remain in water, 3 days in the syrup;

1/2 hour to boil the pulp, 10 minutes the oranges.

_Seasonable_.

--This preserve should be made in February or March, when oranges are plentiful.

ORANGE SALAD.

1571. INGREDIENTS.

--6 oranges, 1/4 lb.

of muscatel raisins, 2 oz.

of pounded sugar, 4 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

_Mode_.

--Peel 5 of the oranges; divide them into slices without breaking the pulp, and arrange them on a glass dish.

Stone the raisins, mix them with the sugar and brandy, and mingle them with the oranges.

Squeeze the juice of the other orange over the whole, and the dish is ready for table.

A little pounded spice may be put in when the flavour is liked;

but this ingredient must be added very sparingly.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

COMPOTE OF PEACHES.

1572. INGREDIENTS.

--1 pint of syrup No. 1512, about 15 small peaches.

_Mode_.

--Peaches that are not very large, and that would not look well for dessert, answer very nicely for a compôte.

Divide the peaches, take out the stones, and pare the fruit; make a syrup by recipe No. 1512, put in the peaches, and stew them gently for about 10 minutes.

Take them out without breaking, arrange them on a glass dish, boil the syrup for 2 or 3 minutes, let it cool, pour it over the fruit, and, when cold, it will be ready for table.

_Time_.

--10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

2d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.

PEACH AND NECTARINE.

--The peach and nectarine, which are among the most delicious of our fruits, are considered as varieties of the same species, produced by cultivation.

The former is characterized by a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches on one part and nectarines on another; and even a single fruit has had down on one side, and on the other none; the trees are almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms.

Pliny states that the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows naturally.

At Montreuil, a village near Paris, almost the whole population is employed in the cultivation of peaches; and this occupation has maintained the inhabitants for ages, and, in consequence, they raise better peaches than anywhere else in France.

In Maryland and Virginia, peaches grow nearly wild in orchards resembling forests; but the fruit is of little value for the table, being employed only in fattening hogs and for the distillation of peach brandy.

On the east side of the Andes, peaches grow wild among the cornfields and in the mountains, and are dried as an article of food.

The young leaves of the peach are sometimes used in cookery, from their agreeable flavour; and a liqueur resembling the fine noyeau of Martinique may be made by steeping them in brandy sweetened with sugar and fined with milk: gin may also be flavoured in the same manner.

The kernels of the fruit have the same flavour.

The nectarine is said to have received its name from nectar, the particular drink of the gods.

Though it is considered as the same species as the peach, it is not known which of the varieties come from the other; the nectarine, is by some considered as the superior fruit.

PEACHES PRESERVED IN BRANDY.

1573. INGREDIENTS.

--To every lb.

of fruit weighed before being stoned, allow 1/4 lb.

of finely-pounded loaf sugar; brandy.

_Mode_.

--Let the fruit be gathered in dry weather; wipe and weigh it, and remove the stones as carefully as possible, without injuring the peaches much.

Put them into a jar, sprinkle amongst them pounded loaf sugar in the above proportion, and pour brandy over the fruit.

Cover the jar down closely, place it in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and bring the brandy to the simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil.

Take the fruit out carefully, without breaking it; put it into small jars, pour over it the brandy, and, when cold, exclude the air by covering the jars with bladders, or tissue-paper brushed over on both sides with the white of an egg.

Apricots may be done in the same manner, and, if properly prepared, will be found delicious.

_Time_.

--From 10 to 20 minutes to bring the brandy to the simmering-point.

_Seasonable_ in August and September.

BAKED PEARS.

1574. INGREDIENTS.

--12 pears, the rind of 1 lemon, 6 cloves, 10 whole allspice; to every pint of water allow 1/2 lb.

of loaf sugar.

_Mode_.

--Pare and cut the pears into halves, and, should they be very large, into quarters; leave the stalks on, and carefully remove the cores.

Place them in a clean baking-jar, with a closely-fitting lid; add to them the lemon-rind cut in strips, the juice of 1/2 lemon, the cloves, pounded allspice, and sufficient water just to cover the whole, with sugar in the above proportion.

Cover the jar down closely, put it into a very cool oven, and bake the pears from 5 to 6 hours, but be very careful that the oven is not too hot.

To improve the colour of the fruit, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added; but this will not be found necessary if the pears are very gently baked.

_Time_.

--Large pears, 5 to 6 hours, in a very slow oven.

_Average cost_, 1d.

to 2d.

each.