Book of Household Management — 079 - Recipes. Chapter 33. Part 2.

TO CHOOSE EGGS.

1654. In choosing eggs, apply the tongue to the large end of the egg, and, if it feels warm, it is new, and may be relied on as a fresh egg.

Another mode of ascertaining their freshness is to hold them before a lighted candle, or to the light, and if the egg looks clear, it will be tolerably good; if thick, it is stale; and if there is a black spot attached to the shell, it is worthless.

No egg should be used for culinary purposes with the slightest taint in it, as it will render perfectly useless those with which it has been mixed.

Eggs that are purchased, and that cannot be relied on, should always be broken in a cup, and then put into a basin: by this means stale or bad eggs may be easily rejected, without wasting the others.

EGGS contain, for their volume, a greater quantity of nutriment than any other article of food.

But it does not follow that they are always good for weak stomachs; quite the contrary; for it is often a great object to give the stomach a large surface to work upon, a considerable volume of _ingesta_, over which the nutritive matter is diffused, and so exposed to the action of the gastric juice at many points.

There are many persons who cannot digest eggs, however cooked.

It is said, however, that their digestibility decreases in proportion to the degree in which they are hardened by boiling.

TO KEEP EGGS FRESH FOR SEVERAL WEEKS.

1655. Have ready a large saucepan, capable of holding 3 or 4 quarts, full of boiling water.

Put the eggs into a cabbage-net, say 20 at a time, and hold them in the water (which must be kept boiling) _for_ 20 _seconds_.

Proceed in this manner till you have done as many eggs as you wish to preserve; then pack them away in sawdust.

We have tried this method of preserving eggs, and can vouch for its excellence: they will be found, at the end of 2 or 3 months, quite good enough for culinary purposes; and although the white may be a little tougher than that of a new-laid egg, the yolk will be nearly the same.

Many persons keep eggs for a long time by smearing the shells with butter or sweet oil: they should then be packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, and the eggs not allowed to touch each other.

Eggs for storing should be collected in fine weather, and should not be more than 24 hours old when they are packed away, or their flavour, when used, cannot be relied on.

Another simple way of preserving eggs is to immerse them in lime-water soon after they have been laid, and then to put the vessel containing the lime-water in a cellar or cool outhouse.

_Seasonable_.

--The best time for preserving eggs is from July to September.

EGGS.

--The quality of eggs is said to be very much affected by the food of the fowls who lay them.

Herbs and grain together make a better food than grain only.

When the hens eat too many insects, the eggs have a disagreeable flavour.

TO BOIL EGGS FOR BREAKFAST, SALADS, &c. [Illustration: EGG-STAND FOR THE BREAKFAST-TABLE.

] 1656. Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after they are laid; but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling a new-laid egg than for one that is three or four days old.

Have ready a saucepan of boiling water; put the eggs into it gently with a spoon, letting the spoon touch the bottom of the saucepan before it is withdrawn, that the egg may not fall, and consequently crack.

For those who like eggs lightly boiled, 3 minutes will be found sufficient; 3-3/4 to 4 minutes will be ample time to set the white nicely; and, if liked hard, 6 to 7 minutes will not be found too long.

Should the eggs be unusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls sometimes are, allow an extra 1/2 minute for them.

Eggs for salads should be boiled from 10 minutes to 1/4 hour, and should be placed in a basin of cold water for a few minutes; they should then be rolled on the table with the hand, and the shell will peel off easily.

_Time_.

--To boil eggs lightly, for invalids or children, 3 minutes; to boil eggs to suit the generality of tastes, 3-3/4 to 4 minutes; to boil eggs hard, 6 to 7 minutes; for salads, 10 to 15 minutes.

_Note_.

--Silver or plated egg-dishes, like that shown in our engraving, are now very much used.

The price of the one illustrated is £2. 2s.

, and may be purchased of Messrs. R.

& J.

Slack, 336, Strand.

EGGS.

--When fresh eggs are dropped into a vessel _full_ of boiling water, they crack, because the eggs being well filled, the shells give way to the efforts of the interior fluids, dilated by heat.

If the volume of hot water be small, the shells do not crack, because its temperature is reduced by the eggs before the interior dilation can take place.

Stale eggs, again, do not crack, because the air inside is easily compressed.

BUTTERED EGGS.

1657. INGREDIENTS.

--4 new-laid eggs, 2 oz.

of butter.

_Mode_.

--Procure the eggs new-laid if possible; break them into a basin, and beat them well; put the butter into another basin, which place in boiling water, and stir till the butter is melted.

Pour that and the eggs into a lined saucepan; hold it over a gentle fire, and, as the mixture begins to warm, pour it two or three times into the basin, and back again, that the two ingredients may be well incorporated.

Keep stirring the eggs and butter one way until they are hot, _without boiling_, and serve on hot buttered toast.

If the mixture is allowed to boil, it will curdle, and so be entirely spoiled.

_Time_.

--About 5 minutes to make the eggs hot.

_Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow a slice to each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

DUCKS' EGGS.

1658. Ducks' eggs are usually so strongly flavoured that, plainly boiled, they are not good for eating; they answer, however, very well for various culinary preparations where eggs are required; such as custards, &c. &c. Being so large and highly-flavoured, 1 duck's egg will go as far as 2 small hen's eggs; besides making whatever they are mixed with exceedingly rich.

They also are admirable when used in puddings.

PRIMITIVE METHOD OF COOKING EGGS.

--The shepherds of Egypt had a singular manner of cooking eggs without the aid of fire.

They placed them in a sling, which they turned so rapidly that the friction of the air heated them to the exact point required for use.

FRIED EGGS.

1659. INGREDIENTS.

--4 eggs, 1/4 lb.

of lard, butter or clarified dripping.

[Illustration: FRIED EGGS ON BACON.

] _Mode_.

--Place a delicately-clean frying-pan over a gentle fire; put in the fat, and allow it to come to the boiling-point.

Break the eggs into cups, slip them into the boiling fat, and let them remain until the whites are delicately set; and, whilst they are frying, ladle a little of the fat over them.

Take them up with a slice, drain them for a minute from their greasy moisture, trim them neatly, and serve on slices of fried bacon or ham; or the eggs may be placed in the middle of the dish, with the bacon put round as a garnish.

_Time_.

--2 to 3 minutes.

Average cost, 1d.

each; 2d.

when scarce.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

VENERATION FOR EGGS.

--Many of the most learned philosophers held eggs in a kind of respect, approaching to veneration, because they saw in them the emblem of the world and the four elements.

The shell, they said, represented the earth; the white, water;

the yolk, fire; and air was found under the shell at one end of the egg.

EGGS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

1660. INGREDIENTS.

--1/4 lb.

of fresh butter, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, pepper and salt to taste, 1 tablespoonful of minced parsley, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 6 eggs.

_Mode_.

--Put the flour and half the butter into a stewpan; stir them over the fire until the mixture thickens; pour in the milk, which should be boiling; add a seasoning of pepper and salt, and simmer the whole for 5 minutes.

Put the remainder of the butter into the sauce, and add the minced parsley; then boil the eggs hard, strip off the shells, cut the eggs into quarters, and put them on a dish.

Bring the sauce to the boiling-point, add the lemon-juice, pour over the eggs, and serve.

_Time_.

--5 minutes to boil the sauce; the eggs, 10 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

OEUFS AU PLAT, or AU MIROIR, served on the Dish in which they are Cooked.

1661. INGREDIENTS.

--4 eggs, 1 oz.

of butter, pepper and salt to taste.

_Mode_.

--Butter a dish rather thickly with good fresh butter; melt it, break the eggs into it the same as for poaching, sprinkle them with white pepper and fine salt, and put the remainder of the butter, cut into very small pieces, on the top of them.

Put the dish on a hot plate, or in the oven, or before the fire, and let it remain until the whites become set, but not hard, when serve immediately, placing the dish they were cooked in on another.

To hasten the cooking of the eggs, a salamander may be held over them for a minute; but great care must be taken that they are not too much done.

This is an exceedingly nice dish, and one very easily prepared for breakfast.

_Time_.

--3 minutes.

_Average cost_, 5d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

PLOVERS' EGGS.

1662. Plovers' eggs are usually served boiled hard, and sent to table in a napkin, either hot or cold.

They may also be shelled, and served the same as eggs à la Tripe, with a good Béchamel sauce, or brown gravy, poured over them.

They are also used for decorating salads, the beautiful colour of the white being generally so much admired.

POACHED EGGS.

[Illustration: EGGS POACHED ON TOAST.

] [Illustration: TIN EGG-POACHER.

] 1663. INGREDIENTS.

--Eggs, water.

To every pint of water allow 1 tablespoonful of vinegar.

_Mode_.

--Eggs for poaching should be perfectly fresh, but not quite new-laid; those that are about 36 hours old are the best for the purpose.

If quite new-laid, the white is so milky it is almost impossible to set it; and, on the other hand, if the egg be at all stale, it is equally difficult to poach it nicely.

Strain some boiling water into a deep clean frying-pan; break the egg into a cup without damaging the yolk, and, when the water boils, remove the pan to the side of the fire, and gently slip the egg into it.

Place the pan over a gentle fire, and keep the water simmering until the white looks nicely set, when the egg is ready.

Take it up gently with a slice, cut away the ragged edges of the white, and serve either on toasted bread or on slices of ham or bacon, or on spinach, &c. A poached egg should not be overdone, as its appearance and taste will be quite spoiled if the yolk be allowed to harden.

When the egg is slipped into the water, the white should be gathered together, to keep it a little in form, or the cup should be turned over it for 1 minute.

To poach an egg to perfection is rather a difficult operation; so, for inexperienced cooks, a tin egg-poacher may be purchased, which greatly facilitates this manner of dressing ecgs.

Our illustration clearly shows what it is: it consists of a tin plate with a handle, with a space for three perforated cups.

An egg should be broken into each cup, and the machine then placed in a stewpan of boiling water, which has been previously strained.

When the whites of the eggs appear set, they are done, and should then be carefully slipped on to the toast or spinach, or with whatever they are served.

In poaching eggs in a frying-pan, never do more than four at a time; and, when a little vinegar is liked mixed with the water in which the eggs are done, use the above proportion.

_Time_.

--2-1/2 to 3-1/2 minutes, according to the size of the egg.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 2 eggs to each person.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but less plentiful in winter.

POACHED EGGS, WITH CREAM.

1664. INGREDIENTS.

--1 pint of water, 1 teaspoonful of salt, 4 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, 4 fresh eggs, 1/2 gill of cream, salt, pepper, and pounded sugar to taste, 1 oz.

of butter.

_Mode_.

--Put the water, vinegar, and salt into a frying-pan, and break each egg into a separate cup; bring the water, &c. to boil, and slip the eggs gently into it without breaking the yolks.

Simmer them from 3 to 4 minutes, but not longer, and, with a slice, lift them out on to a hot dish, and trim the edges.

Empty the pan of its contents, put in the cream, add a seasoning to taste of pepper, salt, and pounded sugar;

bring the whole to the boiling-point; then add the butter, broken into small pieces; toss the pan round and round till the butter is melted;

pour it over the eggs, and serve.

To insure the eggs not being spoiled whilst the cream, &c. , is preparing, it is a good plan to warm the cream with the butter, &c. , before the eggs are poached, so that it may be poured over them immediately after they are dished.

_Time_.

--3 to 4 minutes to poach the eggs, 5 minutes to warm the cream.

_Average cost_ for the above quantity, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

1665. COMPARATIVE SIZES OF EGGS.

[Illustration: 1 SWAN'S EGG.

2 TURKEY'S EGG.

3 DUCK'S EGG.

4 PLOVER'S

EGG.

] SCOTCH EGGS.

1666. INGREDIENTS.

--6 eggs, 6 tablespoonfuls of forcemeat No. 417, hot lard, 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.

_Mode_.

--Boil the eggs for 10 minutes; strip them from the shells, and cover them with forcemeat made by recipe No. 417; or substitute pounded anchovies for the ham.

Fry the eggs a nice brown in boiling lard, drain them before the fire from their greasy moisture, dish them, and pour round from 1/4 to 1/2 pint of good brown gravy.

To enhance the appearance of the eggs, they may be rolled in beaten egg and sprinkled with bread crumbs; but this is scarcely necessary if they are carefully fried.

The flavour of the ham or anchovy in the forcemeat must preponderate, as it should be very relishing.

_Time_.

--10 minutes to boil the eggs, 5 to 7 minutes to fry them.

_Average cost_, 1s.

4d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

EGGS A LA TRIPE.

1667. INGREDIENTS.

--8 eggs, 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce No. 368, dessertspoonful of finely-minced parsley.

_Mode_.

--Boil the eggs hard; put them into cold water, peel them, take out the yolks whole, and shred the whites.

Make 3/4 pint of Béchamel sauce by recipe No. 368; add the parsley, and, when the sauce is quite hot, put the yolks of the eggs into the middle of the dish, and the shred whites round them; pour over the sauce, and garnish with leaves of puff-paste or fried croûtons.

There is no necessity for putting the eggs into the saucepan with the Béchamel; the sauce, being quite hot, will warm the eggs sufficiently.

_Time_.

--10 minutes to boil the eggs.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration] [Illustration] CHAPTER XXXIV. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BREAD, BISCUITS, AND CAKES.