Book of Household Management — 085 - Recipes. Chapter 37. Part 1.

1807. INGREDIENTS.

--Allow 1/2 oz.

of chocolate to each person; to every oz.

allow 1/2 pint of water, 1/2 pint of milk.

_Mode_.

--Make the milk-and-water hot; scrape the chocolate into it, and stir the mixture constantly and quickly until the chocolate is dissolved; bring it to the boiling-point, stir it well, and serve directly with white sugar.

Chocolate prepared with in a mill, as shown in the engraving, is made by putting in the scraped chocolate, pouring over it the boiling milk-and-water, and milling it over the fire until hot and frothy.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1/2 oz.

of cake chocolate to each person.

[Illustration: MILL.

] CHOCOLATE AND COCOA.

--Both these preparations are made from the seeds or beans of the cacao-tree, which grows in the West Indies and South America.

The Spanish, and the proper name, is cacao, not cocoa, as it is generally spelt.

From this mistake, the tree from which the beverage is procured has been often confounded with the palm that produces the edible cocoa-nuts, which are the produce of the cocoa-tree (_Cocos nucifera_), whereas the tree from which chocolate is procured is very different (the _Theobroma cacao_).

The cocoa-tree was cultivated by the aboriginal inhabitants of South America, particularly in Mexico, where, according to Humboldt, it was reared by Montezuma.

It was transplanted thence into other dependencies of the Spanish monarchy in 1520; and it was so highly esteemed by Linnaeus receive from him the name now conferred upon it, of Theobroma, a term derived from the Greek, and signifying "_food for gods_."

Chocolate has always been a favourite beverage among the Spaniards and Creoles, and was considered here as a great luxury when first introduced, after the discovery of America; but the high duties laid upon it, confined it long almost entirely to the wealthier classes.

Before it was subjected to duty, Mr. Bryan Edwards stated that cocoa plantations were numerous in Jamaica, but that the duty caused their almost entire ruin.

The removal of this duty has increased their cultivation.

(For engraving of cocoa-bean, _see_ No. 1816. ) TO MAKE ESSENCE OF COFFEE.

1808. INGREDIENTS.

--To every 1/4 lb.

of ground coffee allow 1 small teaspoonful of powdered chicory, 3 small teacupfuls, or 1 pint, of water.

_Mode_.

--Let the coffee be freshly ground, and, if possible, freshly roasted; put it into a percolater, or filter, with the chicory, and pour _slowly_ over it the above proportion of boiling water.

When it has all filtered through, warm the coffee sufficiently to bring it to the simmering-point, but do not allow it to boil; then filter it a second time, put it into a clean and dry bottle, cork it well, and it will remain good for several days.

Two tablespoonfuls of this essence are quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk.

This essence will be found particularly useful to those persons who have to rise extremely early; and having only the milk to make boiling, is very easily and quickly prepared.

When the essence is bottled, pour another 3 tea-cupfuls of _boiling_ water slowly on the grounds, which, when filtered through, will be a very weak coffee.

The next time there is essence to be prepared, make this weak coffee boiling, and pour it on the ground coffee instead of plain water: by this means a better coffee will be obtained.

Never throw away the grounds without having made use of them in this manner; and always cork the bottle well that contains this preparation, until the day that it is wanted for making the fresh essence.

_Time_.

--To be filtered once, then brought to the boiling-point, and filtered again.

_Average cost_, with coffee at 1s.

8d.

per lb.

, 6d.

_Sufficient'_-Allow 2 tablespoonfuls for a breakfast-cupful of hot milk.

TO ROAST COFFEE.

(_A French Recipe_.

) 1809. It being an acknowledged fact that French coffee is decidedly superior to that made in England, and as the roasting of the berry is of great importance to the flavour of the preparation, it will be useful and interesting to know how they manage these things in France.

In Paris, there are two houses justly celebrated for the flavour of their coffee,--_La Maison Corcellet_ and _La Maison Royer de Chartres_; and to obtain this flavour, before roasting they add to every 3 lbs.

of coffee a piece of butter the size of a nut, and a dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar: it is then roasted in the usual manner.

The addition of the butter and sugar develops the flavour and aroma of the berry; but it must be borne in mind, that the quality of the butter must be of the very best description.

TO MAKE COFFEE.

1810. INGREDIENTS.

--Allow 4 oz.

, or 1 tablespoonful, of ground coffee to each person; to every oz.

of coffee allow 1/3 pint of water.

_Mode_.

--To make coffee good, _it should never be boiled_, but the boiling water merely poured on it, the same as for tea.

The coffee should always be purchased in the berry,--if possible, freshly roasted;

and it should never be ground long before it is wanted for use.

There are very many new kinds of coffee-pots, but the method of making the coffee is nearly always the same; namely, pouring the boiling water on the powder, and allowing it to filter through.

Our illustration shows one of Loysel's Hydrostatic Urns, which are admirably adapted for making good and clear coffee, which should be made in the following, manner:--Warm the urn with boiling water, remove the lid and movable filter, and place the ground coffee at the bottom of the urn.

Put the movable filter over this, and screw the lid, inverted, tightly on the end of the centre pipe.

Pour into the inverted lid the above proportion of boiling water, and when all the water so poured has disappeared from the funnel, and made its way down the centre pipe and up again through the ground coffee by _hydrostatic pressure_, unscrew screw the lid and cover the urn.

Pour back direct into the urn, _not through the funnel_, one, two, or three cups, according to the size of the percolater, in order to make the infusion of uniform strength; the contents will then be ready for use, and should run from the tap strong, hot, and clear.

The coffee made in these urns generally turns out very good, and there is but one objection to them,--the coffee runs rather slowly from the tap.

This is of no consequence where there is a small party, but tedious where there are many persons to provide for.

A remedy for this objection may be suggested; namely, to make the coffee very strong, so that not more than 1/3 of a cup would be required, as the rest would be filled up with milk.

Making coffee in filters or percolaters does away with the necessity of using isinglass, white of egg, and various other preparations to clear it.

Coffee should always be served very hot, and, if possible, in the same vessel in which it is made, as pouring it from one pot to another cools, and consequently spoils it.

Many persons may think that the proportion of water we have given for each oz.

of coffee is rather small; it is so, and the coffee produced from it will be very strong; 1/3 of a cup will be found quite sufficient, which should be filled with nice hot milk, or milk and cream mixed.

This is the 'cafe au lait' for which our neighbours over the Channel are so justly celebrated.

Should the ordinary method of making coffee be preferred, use double the quantity of water, and, in pouring it into the cups, put in more coffee and less milk.

[Illustration: LOYSEL'S HYDROSTATIC URN.

] _Sufficient_.

--For very good coffee, allow 1/2 oz.

, or 1 tablespoonful, to each person.

A VERY SIMPLE METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE.

1811. INGREDIENTS.

--Allow 1/2 oz.

, or 1 tablespoonful, of coffee to each person; to every oz.

allow 1 pint of water.

_Mode_.

--Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coffee-pot inside, and to this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for the purpose must not be too thin).

Fit the bag into the pot, pour some boiling water in it, and, when the pot is well warmed, put the ground coffee into the bag; pour over as much boiling water as is required, close the lid, and, when all the water has filtered through, remove the bag, and send the coffee to table.

Making it in this manner prevents the necessity of pouring the coffee from one vessel to another, which cools and spoils it.

The water should be poured on the coffee gradually, so that the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be well made, that none of the grounds may escape through the seams, and so make the coffee thick and muddy.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 tablespoonful, or 1/2 oz.

, to each person.

[Illustration: COFFEE.

] THE COFFEE PLANT grows to the height of about twelve or fifteen feet, with leaves not unlike those of the common laurel, although more pointed, and not so dry and thick.

The blossoms are white, much like those of jasmine, and issue from the angles of the leaf-stalks.

When the flowers fade, they are succeeded by the coffee-bean, or seed, which is inclosed in a berry of a red colour, when ripe resembling a cherry.

The coffee-beans are prepared by exposing them to the sun for a few days, that the pulp may ferment and throw off a strong acidulous moisture.

They are then gradually dried for about three weeks, and put into a mill to separate the husk from the seed.

CAFE AU LAIT.

1812. This is merely very strong coffee added to a large proportion of good hot milk; about 6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee being quite sufficient for a breakfast-cupful of milk.

Of the essence No. 1808, which answers admirably for 'cafe an lait', so much would not be required.

This preparation is infinitely superior to the weak watery coffee so often served at English tables.

A little cream mixed with the milk, if the latter cannot be depended on for richness, improves the taste of the coffee, as also the richness of the beverage.

_Sufficient_.

--6 tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, or 2 tablespoonfuls of the essence, to a breakfast-cupful of milk.

TEA AND COFFEE.

--It is true, says Liebig, that thousands have lived without a knowledge of tea and coffee; and daily experience teaches us that, under certain circumstances, they may be dispensed with without disadvantage to the merely animal functions; but it is an error, certainly, to conclude from this that they may be altogether dispensed with in reference to their effects; and it is a question whether, if we had no tea and no coffee, the popular instinct would not seek for and discover the means of replacing them.

Science, which accuses us of so much in these respects, will have, in the first place, to ascertain whether it depends on sensual and sinful inclinations merely, that every people of the globe have appropriated some such means of acting on the nervous life, from the shore of the Pacific, where the Indian retires from life for days in order to enjoy the bliss of intoxication with koko, to the Arctic regions, where Kamtschatdales and Koriakes prepare an intoxicating beverage from a poisonous mushroom.

We think it, on the contrary, highly probable, not to say certain, that the instinct of man, feeling certain blanks, certain wants of the intensified life of our times, which cannot be satisfied or filled up by mere quantity, has discovered, in these products of vegetable life the true means of giving to his food the desired and necessary quality.

CAFE NOIR.

1813. This is usually handed round after dinner, and should be drunk well sweetened, with the addition of a little brandy or liqueurs, which may be added or not at pleasure.

The coffee should be made very strong, and served in very small cups, but never mixed with milk or cream.

Cafe noir may be made of the essence of coffee No. 1808, by pouring a tablespoonful into each cup, and filling it up with boiling water.

This is a very simple and expeditious manner of preparing coffee for a large party, but the essence for it must be made very good, and kept well corked until required for use.

TO MAKE TEA.

1814. There is very little art in making good tea; if the water is boiling, and there is no sparing of the fragrant leaf, the beverage will almost invariably be good.

The old-fashioned plan of allowing a teaspoonful to each person, and one over, is still practised.

Warm the teapot with boiling water; let it remain for two or three minutes for the vessel to become thoroughly hot, then pour it away.

Put in the tea, pour in from 1/2 to 3/4 pint of boiling water, close the lid, and let it stand for the tea to draw from 5 to 10 minutes; then fill up the pot with water.

The tea will be quite spoiled unless made with water that is actually 'boiling', as the leaves will not open, and the flavour not be extracted from them; the beverage will consequently be colourless and tasteless,--in fact, nothing but tepid water.

Where there is a very large party to make tea for, it is a good plan to have two teapots instead of putting a large quantity of tea into one pot; the tea, besides, will go farther.

When the infusion has been once completed, the addition of fresh tea adds very little to the strength; so, when more is required, have the pot emptied of the old leaves, scalded, and fresh tea made in the usual manner.

Economists say that a few grains of carbonate of soda, added before the boiling water is poured on the tea, assist to draw out the goodness: if the water is very hard, perhaps it is a good plan, as the soda softens it; but care must be taken to use this ingredient sparingly, as it is liable to give the tea a soapy taste if added in too large a quantity.

For mixed tea, the usual proportion is four spoonfuls of black to one of green; more of the latter when the flavour is very much liked; but strong green tea is highly pernicious, and should never be partaken of too freely.

_Time_.

--2 minutes to warm the teapot, 5 to 10 minutes to draw the strength from the tea.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 teaspoonful to each person, and one over.

TEA.

--The tea-tree or shrub belongs to the class and order of Monadelphia polyandria in the Linnaean system, and to the natural order of Aurantiaceae in the system of Jussieu.

Lately it has been made into a new order, the Theasia, which includes the Camellia and some other plants.

It commonly grows to the height of from three to six feet; but it is said, that, in its wild or native state, it reaches twenty feet or more.

In China it is cultivated in numerous small plantations.

In its general appearance, and the form of its leaf, it resembles the myrtle.

The blossoms are white and fragrant, not unlike those of the wild rose, but smaller; and they are succeeded by soft green capsules, containing each from one to three white seeds.

These capsules are crushed for oil, which is in general use in China.

[Illustration: TEA.

] AN EXCELLENT SUBSTITUTE FOR MILK OR CREAM IN TEA OR COFFEE.

1815. INGREDIENTS.

--Allow 1 new-laid egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee.

_Mode_.

--Beat up the whole of the egg in a basin, put it into a cup (or a portion of it, if the cup be small), and pour over it the tea or coffee very hot.

These should be added very gradually, and stirred all the time, to prevent the egg from curdling.

In point of nourishment, both these beverages are much improved by this addition.

_Sufficient_.

--Allow 1 egg to every large breakfast-cupful of tea or coffee.

TO MAKE COCOA.

1816. INGREDIENTS.

--Allow 2 teaspoonfuls of the prepared cocoa to 1 breakfast-cup; boiling milk and boiling water.

[Illustration: COCOA-BEAN.

] _Mode_.

--Put the cocoa into a breakfast-cup, pour over it sufficient cold milk to make it into a smooth paste; then add equal quantities of boiling milk and boiling water, and stir all well together.

Care must be taken not to allow the milk to get burnt, as it will entirely spoil the flavour of the preparation.

The above directions are usually given for making the prepared cocoa.

The rock cocoa, or that bought in a solid piece, should be scraped, and made in the same manner, taking care to rub down all the lumps before the boiling liquid is added.

_Sufficient_--2 teaspoonfuls of prepared cocoa for 1 breakfast-cup, or 1/4 oz.

of the rock cocoa for the same quantity.

COWSLIP WINE.

1817. INGREDIENTS.

--To every gallon of water allow 3 lbs.

of lump sugar, the rind of 2 lemons, the juice of 1, the rind and juice of 1 Seville orange, 1 gallon of cowslip pips.

To every 4-1/2 gallons of wine allow 1 bottle of brandy.

_Mode_.

--Boil the sugar and water together for 1/2 hour, carefully removing all the scum as it rises.

Pour this boiling liquor on the orange and lemon-rinds, and the juice, which should be strained; when milk-warm, add the cowslip pips or flowers, picked from the stalks and seeds; and to 9 gallons of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of good fresh brewers' yeast.

Let it ferment 3 or 4 days; then put all together in a cask with the brandy, and let it remain for 2 months, when bottle it off for use.

_Time_.

--To be boiled 1/2 hour; to ferment 3 or 4 days; to remain in the cask 2 months.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the cowslips, which may be picked in the fields, 2s.

9d.

per gallon.

_Seasonable_.

--Make this in April or May.

ELDER WINE.

1818. INGREDIENTS.

--To every 3 gallons of water allow 1 peck of elderberries; to every gallon of juice allow 3 lbs.

of sugar, 1/2 oz.

of ground ginger, 6 cloves, 1 lb.

of good Turkey raisins; 1/2 pint of brandy to every gallon of wine.

To every 9 gallons of wine 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of fresh brewer's yeast.

_Mode_.

--Pour the water, quite boiling, on the elderberries, which should be picked from the stalks, and let these stand covered for 24 hours; then strain the whole through a sieve or bag, breaking the fruit to express all the juice from it.

Measure the liquor, and to every gallon allow the above proportion of sugar.

Boil the juice and sugar with the ginger, cloves, and raisins for 1 hour, skimming the liquor the whole time; let it stand until milk-warm, then put it into a clean dry cask, with 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of good fresh yeast to every 9 gallons of wine.

Let it ferment for about a fortnight; then add the brandy, bung up the cask, and let it stand some months before it is bottled, when it will be found excellent.

A bunch of hops suspended to a string from the bung, some persons say, will preserve the wine good for several years.

Elder wine is usually mulled, and served with sippets of toasted bread and a little grated nutmeg.

_Time_.

--To stand covered 24 hours; to be boiled 1 hour.

_Average cost_, when made at home, 3s.

6d.

per gallon.

_Seasonable_.

--Make this in September.

[Illustration: ELDER-BERRIES.

] ELDER-BERRY WINE.

--The elder-berry is well adapted for the production of wine; its juice contains a considerable portion of the principle necessary for a vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful colour communicates a rich tint to the wine made from it.

It is, however, deficient in sweetness, and therefore demands an addition of sugar.

It is one of the very best of the genuine old English wines; and a cup of it mulled, just previous to retiring to bed on a winter night, is a thing to be "run for," as Cobbett would say: it is not, however, agreeable to every taste.

GINGER WINE.

1819. INGREDIENTS.

--To 9 gallons of water allow 27 lbs.

of loaf sugar, 9 lemons, 12 oz.

of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoonfuls of yeast, 2 lbs.

of raisins stoned and chopped, 1 pint of brandy.

_Mode_.

--Boil together for 1 hour in a copper (let it previously be well scoured and beautifully clean) the water, sugar, _lemon-rinds_, and bruised ginger; remove every particle of scum as it rises, and when the liquor is sufficiently boiled, put it into a large tub or pan, as it must not remain in the copper.

When nearly cold, add the yeast, which must be thick and very fresh, and, the next day, put all in a dry cask with the strained lemon-juice and chopped raisins.

Stir the wine every day for a fortnight; then add the brandy, stop the cask down by degrees, and in a few weeks it will be fit to bottle.

_Average cost_, 2s.

per gallon.

_Sufficient_ to make 9 gallons of wine.

_Seasonable_.

--The best time for making this wine is either in March or September.

_Note_.

--Wine made early in March will be fit to bottle in June.

GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR.

(_An Excellent Recipe_.

) 1820. INGREDIENTS.

--2 pecks of crystal gooseberries, 6 gallons of water, 12 lbs.

of foots sugar of the coarsest brown quality.

_Mode_.

--Mash the gooseberries (which should be quite ripe) in a tub with a mallet; put to them the water nearly milk-warm; let this stand 24 hours; then strain it through a sieve, and put the sugar to it; mix it well, and tun it.

These proportions are for a 9-gallon cask; and if it be not quite full, more water must be added.

Let the mixture be stirred from the bottom of the cask two or three times daily for three or four days, to assist the melting of the sugar; then paste a piece of linen cloth over the bunghole, and set the cask in a warm place, _but not in the sun_; any corner of a warm kitchen is the best situation for it.

The following spring it should be drawn off into stone bottles, and the vinegar will be fit for use twelve months after it is made.

This will be found a most excellent preparation, greatly superior to much that is sold under the name of the best white wine vinegar.

Many years' experience has proved that pickle made with this vinegar will keep, when bought vinegar will not preserve the ingredients.

The cost per gallon is merely nominal, especially to those who reside in the country and grow their own gooseberries; the coarse sugar is then the only ingredient to be purchased.

_Time_.

--To remain in the cask 9 months.

_Average cost_, when the gooseberries have to be purchased, 1s.

per gallon; when they are grown at home, 6d.

per gallon.

_Seasonable_.

--This should be made the end of June or the beginning of July, when gooseberries are ripe and plentiful.

EFFERVESCING GOOSEBERRY WINE.

1821. INGREDIENTS.

--To every gallon of water allow 6 lbs.

of green gooseberries, 3 lbs.

of lump sugar.

_Mode_.

--This wine should be prepared from unripe gooseberries, in order to avoid the flavour which the fruit would give to the wine when in a mature state.

Its briskness depends more upon the time of bottling than upon the unripe state of the fruit, for effervescing wine can be made from fruit that is ripe as well as that which is unripe.

The fruit should be selected when it has nearly attained its full growth, and consequently before it shows any tendency to ripen.

Any bruised or decayed berries, and those that are very small, should be rejected.

The blossom and stalk ends should be removed, and the fruit well bruised in a tub or pan, in such quantities as to insure each berry being broken without crushing the seeds.

Pour the water (which should be warm) on the fruit, squeeze and stir it with the hand until all the pulp is removed from the skin and seeds, and cover the whole closely for 24 hours; after which, strain it through a coarse bag, and press it with as much force as can be conveniently applied, to extract the whole of the juice and liquor the fruit may contain.

To every 40 or 50 lbs.

of fruit one gallon more of hot water may be passed through the marc, or husks, in order to obtain any soluble matter that may remain, and be again pressed.

The juice should be put into a tub or pan of sufficient size to contain all of it, and the sugar added to it.

Let it be well stirred until the sugar is dissolved, and place the pan in a warm situation; keep it closely covered, and let it ferment for a day or two.

It must then be drawn off into clean casks, placed a little on one side for the scum that arises to be thrown out, and the casks kept filled with the remaining "must," that should be reserved for that purpose.

When the active fermentation has ceased, the casks should be plugged upright, again filled, if necessary, the bungs be put in loosely, and, after a few days, when the fermentation is a little more languid (which may be known, by the hissing noise ceasing), the bungs should be driven in tight, and a spile-hole made, to give vent if necessary.

About November or December, on a clear fine day, the wine should he racked from its lees into clean casks, which may be rinsed with brandy.

After a month, it should be examined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bottling; if not, it must be fined with isinglass, which may be dissolved in some of the wine: 1 oz.

will be sufficient for 9 gallons.

In March or April, or when the gooseberry bushes begin to blossom, the wine must be bottled, in order to insure its being effervescing.

_Seasonable_.

--Make this the end of May or beginning of June, before the berries ripen.

LEMON SYRUP.