Mushrooms and Toadstools (Third Edition) — Scaly Mushroom to Curled Helvella

(_Agaricus_ [_Lepiota_] _procerus.

_) 13. Agaricus procerus everywhere enjoys a good reputation, and as it is far from uncommon, the lovers of fungi can generally make sure of this species for a treat.

When or at what time it was ever sold at Covent Garden Market, I do not know; for although more than one book says it is there displayed for sale, I never saw, or could hear of it.

It grows in pastures, and is known by its long bulbous spotted stem, by the ring that will slip up and down, by the very scaly top, and the gills far removed from the insertion of the stalk.

When the stem is removed, a large hollow socket remains,—just the place to insert a large piece of butter in the broiling process, when, with pepper and salt, it forms a dish that if once tried must please the most fastidious.

I think the plants gathered in the pastures are best.

I have sometimes found most enormous specimens growing in fir plantations, but I do not think them equal for the table to the plants which abound in rich meadows.

The flesh is a little inclined to change colour; and there is an allied species, _A.

rachodes_, much more _robust_, but often smaller, that changes colour to a deep yellowish-brown when broken, and has a smooth stem, that cannot be so highly recommended, if it even be wholesome.

I

have generally found it growing on dark and shady hedge-banks, and know several persons who have eaten it and speak well of it.

=Plum Mushroom.

= Fig. 15. (_Agaricus_ [_Clitopilus_] _prunulus.

_) 225. The pure pink gills running considerably down the ringless stem, and the fresh and fragrant smell of meal, at once distinguish this species from all others.

It grows in and near woods in the autumn, evidently giving a preference to the open places and borders; the solid stem and the very fleshy top are white, or some shade of very pale grey.

Dr. Badham and some other authors refer to our plant under the name of _A.

orcellus_, and some botanists consider the true “orcellus” and the true “prunulus” distinct but closely allied species.

There is also a vexatious confusion between this species and fig. 19, St. George’s Mushroom (_A.

gambosus_).

This latter is a spring plant, and is frequently and erroneously called _A.

prunulus_.

They have no characters in common, and, in fact, more distinct Agarics do not exist.

Returning to the true Plum Mushroom (fig. 15), I have only to say that, however prepared, it is most excellent; the flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour; and whether broiled, stewed, or however prepared, it is a most delicious morsel.

I have never seen it in very large quantities; it is scattered over the woods north of London, but not in profusion.

=Curled Helvella.

= Fig. 16. (_Helvella crispa.

_) 1673. This singular-looking plant is nearly allied to the true Morel, and closely resembles it in flavour.

It is hardly possible to mistake it for any other species, unless it be the next, which has a black top, and is rarer (_H.

lacunosa_), 1674, and also esculent.

_H.

crispa_ generally grows on shady banks, or on the edges of pastures and lawns, and amongst dead leaves, under the shade of trees.

I have only once seen it near London, and that was in the neighbourhood of Caen Wood, Hampstead; sometimes, however, I have found it in immense quantities (numbering hundreds of specimens) on rich sloping banks.

The stem is full of wrinkles and holes, and the top lobed and deflexed in a very singular and irregular manner.

If stewed slowly and with care, this species will prove very pleasant eating, and will exude a delicious gravy.

The flesh is firm and crisp, and greatly resembles the Morel.

It may be easily dried for future use in a current of air, or in a dry place; in this state, specimens are at times kept threaded on strings, ready to impart their truly delicious flavour to stews and gravies.

(See description of fig. 20. ) I once saw a batch of specimens which had suddenly sprung up close to some ants’ nests, and thousands of the ants were swarming over and examining the fungi, and running in and out of the holes in the stems in the most amusing manner.

=Oyster Mushroom.

= Fig. 17.