Pilgrims' Way from Winchester to Canterbury — The Martyr's Shrine

THE MARTYR'S SHRINE

Erasmus has described the imposing effect of the great Cathedral church on the stranger who entered its doors for the first time, and saw the nave "in all its spacious majesty."

The vision which broke upon the eyes of those pilgrims who, like himself and Dean Colet, visited Canterbury in the early years of the sixteenth century, may well have filled all hearts with wonder.

For then the work was well-nigh perfected.

The long roll of master-builders, from Prior Wibert and De Estria to Chillenden and Sellyng, had faithfully accomplished their task.

Prior Goldstone, the last but one who reigned before the Dissolution, had just completed the central tower, the great labour of his predecessor Prior Sellyng's life, and was in the act of building the noble Perpendicular gateway which forms a fitting entrance to the precincts.

And now the great church stood complete.

Without, "a very goodly, strong, and beautiful structure": the traceries and mouldings of the windows, the stone canopies and sculptured images of the portal, all perfect; the glorious towers in their might; Bell Harry Steeple, as we see it to-day, matchless in its strength and beauty; and beside it, rivalling its grace and majesty, the ancient Norman tower, which bore the name of Ethelbert, crowned with the Arundel spire.

Within, a richness and splendour to which our eyes are wholly unaccustomed: chapels and chantries lining the great nave, fresh from Prior Chillenden's work; altars glittering with lighted tapers and gold and silver ornaments; roof and walls bright with painting and gilding, or decked with silken tapestry hangings; carved images covered with pearls and gems; stained windows throwing their hues of ruby and sapphire across the floor, and lighting up the clouds of incense as they rose heavenward.

All this, and much more, met the pilgrims' wondering eyes.

No wonder they stood "half amazed," as the Supplementary Tale to Chaucer's Pilgrimage describes "the gardener and the miller and the other lewd sets," gazing up at the painted windows, and forgetting to move on with the crowd.

[Illustration: THE MARTYRDOM, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL.

] Then the show began.

First of all the pilgrims were led up a vaulted passage and "many steps" to the Transept of the Martyrdom, where the wooden altar, at the foot of which the saint fell, remained to show the actual place of the murder, and its guardian priest--the _Custos Martyrum_--displayed the rusty sword of Richard le Breton.

Next, descending the flight of steps on the right, they were led into the dark crypt, where more priests received them, and presented the saint's skull, encased in silver, to be kissed, and other relics, including the famous girdle and hair-shirt.

This _Caput Thomæ_ was one of the chief stations at which offerings were made, and the altar on which it lay, mentioned in the Black Prince's will as "the altar where the head is," marked the site of the original grave where the saint was buried by the frightened monks on the day after the murder.

The tomb stood in the eastern chapel of Ernulf's crypt, under the beautiful Pointed arches afterwards raised by that great architect, William the Englishman, whom Gervase describes as "small in body, but in workmanship skilled and honest."

Soon it acquired a miraculous virtue, and the fame of the cures and wonders wrought there rang throughout the world.

It was the scene of Henry II.'

s penance, and during the next fifty years it remained the central object of interest to the crowds of pilgrims who came from all parts of Christendom.

Coeur de Lion, accompanied by William, King of Scotland, knelt here on his way to the Crusades, to implore the martyr's blessing on his arms.

Many were the Crusaders from all parts of France and England who came thither on the same errand.

King John and his wife Isabella, who were crowned at Canterbury Cathedral by Archbishop Hubert Walter, at Easter, 1201, offered their coronation canopies at this tomb and vast sums of money were yearly offered here until 1220, when the body of St. Thomas was translated, in the presence of the young King Henry III.

, to the new Shrine in Trinity Chapel, immediately above the tomb in the crypt.

In that year the offerings at the tomb, at the Altar of the Sword's Point, and at the new Shrine, reached the enormous amount of £1,071, a sum equal to more than £20,000 of money at the present time.

After this, the offerings at the original tomb in the crypt diminished in number and value, but the altar and relics of the _Caput Thomæ_ remained an object of deep reverence until the Reformation.

From the dark vaults of the subterranean church the pilgrims were led up the steps to the north aisle of the choir.

Here the great mass of relics, including St. George's arm and no less than four hundred skulls, jaws, teeth, hands, and other bones, were displayed in gold, silver, or ivory caskets, and pilgrims were allowed a glimpse of the magnificent vessels and ornaments stored up under the high altar.

"All the gold of Midas and Croesus," exclaims Erasmus, "would have been nothing by the side of these treasures!"

and he confesses that he sighed to think he kept no such relics at home, and had to beg the saint's pardon for this very unholy emotion.

The golden candlesticks and silken vestments of the sacristy in St. Andrew's tower, and the saint's pallium, which no ordinary pilgrims might see, were also shown to Erasmus and Colet, who brought with them a letter of introduction from Archbishop Warham.

After duly inspecting these precious objects, they mounted the long flight of steps behind the high altar leading into Trinity Chapel; a continual ascent, "church, as it were, piled upon church," which seems to have greatly heightened the impression produced upon the awe-struck pilgrims.

Now at last they stood within the holiest of holies.

There, before their eyes, was the goal of all their journeyings, the object of their deepest devotion, the Shrine which held the body of the blessed martyr.

[Illustration: SITE OF THE SHRINE OF ST. THOMAS, CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL.

] The Shrine itself, covered by a painted canopy of wood, rested on stone arches in the centre of the floor, exactly under the gilded crescent which is still to be seen in the Cathedral roof.

On the right was the richly carved and canopied monument of Henry IV.

and his Queen, Joan of Navarre, with its elaborate effigies of the royal pair wearing their crowns and robes of state; on the left the tomb of Edward the Black Prince.

He had willed to sleep before the altar of Our Lady of the Under-croft, in the chapel adorned by his own gifts, but the people who had loved him so well would not allow their hero to remain buried out of sight in the dark crypt.

So they brought him to rest by the great saint's Shrine, where all men could see his effigy of gilded bronze as he lay there, clad in armour, his sword by his side, his hands clasped in prayer, and read the pathetic lines which tell of his departed glories, and bid the passing stranger pray for his soul: "Pur Dieu, priez au Celestien Roy, Que mercy ait de l'âme de moy."

His was the first tomb that was ever raised in the sacred precincts devoted to the martyr's Shrine, and to this day it remains there, unhurt by the hand of time or the more cruel violence of man.

Up the worn stone steps which still bear the marks left by thousands of feet and knees, the pilgrims climbed, murmuring words of prayer or chanting the popular Latin hymns to St. Thomas: "Tu, per Thomæ sanguinem, Quem pro te impendit, Fac nos, Christe, scandere Quo Thomas ascendit."

Here the Prior himself received them, and showed them first the corona or crown of Becket's head, preserved in a golden likeness of St. Thomas's face, ornamented with pearls and precious gems, which had been presented by Henry V. Then, at a given sign, the wooden canopy was drawn up by ropes, and the Shrine itself, embossed with gold and glittering with countless jewels that flashed and sparkled with light, was revealed to the eyes of the pilgrims.

They all fell upon their knees and worshipped, while the Prior with his white wand pointed out the balass-rubies and diamonds, the sapphires and emeralds, which adorned the Shrine, and told the names of the royal persons by whom these gifts had been presented.

There were rings and brooches and chains without end, golden and silver statues offered by kings and queens, the crown of Scotland brought back by Edward I. after his victory over John Baliol, and the _regale_ of France, that superb ruby presented at the tomb in the crypt by Louis VII.

, which shone like fire, and was as costly as a king's ransom.

Full of awe and wonder the spectators gazed with admiring eyes on these treasures, which for beauty and splendour were beyond all they had ever dreamt, until the canopy slowly descended, and the Shrine was once more hidden from their sight.

Then they went their way, some to visit the convent buildings, the noble chapter-house with its gabled roof and stained windows, and the glazed walk of the cloisters, glowing with bright colours and decorated with heraldic devices of benefactors to Christ Church painted on the bosses of the vaulting.

Others made themselves fresh and gay, and went out to see the city, the Knight and his son to look at the walls, the Prioress and the Wife of Bath to walk in the herbary of the inn.

But for Erasmus and his rather inconvenient companion there was still a sight in store, only reserved for very exalted personages, or such as had friends at court.

Prior Goldstone, a gentle and well-bred man, not altogether ignorant, as Erasmus found, of the Scotian theology, himself took them back into the crypt, and lanterns were brought to illumine the dark vaults.

By their light the Prior led the way into the church of Our Lady of the Undercroft, which was divided from the rest of the crypt by strong iron railings.

Here the two friends saw what Erasmus might well call "a display of more than royal splendour."

For here, surrounded by exquisitely carved stonework screens and a beautiful reredos with delicate traceries and mouldings, richly coloured and gilt, was the altar of Our Lady, adorned with precious ornaments and twinkling with hundreds of silver lamps.

There in the central niche, under a crocketed and pinnacled canopy, stood the famous silver image of the Blessed Virgin herself.

And there was the jewelled tabernacle and frontal, with its picture of the Assumption worked in gold, and the chalice and cruets in the form of angels, and the great silver candelabra with which the Black Prince had enriched his favourite shrine.

There too were the costly gifts and jewels presented by his son, Richard II.

, the gold brooches offered yearly by Edward I. , the white silk vestments, diapered with a vine pattern of blue, bequeathed by the Black Prince, and countless other rare and precious things, which filled Erasmus with envy and wonder.

But then, as ill luck would have it, the Prior conducted his guests into the sacristy, where on bended knees he opened a black leathern chest, out of which he produced a parcel of ragged handkerchiefs with which St. Thomas used to wipe his face.

This was too much for Dean Colet's patience, already sorely tried as it had been by what he had seen and heard.

When the gentle Prior offered him one of the filthy rags as a present, he shrank back in evident disgust, and turned up his nose with an expression of contempt which filled Erasmus with shame and terror.

Fortunately the Prior was a man of sense and courtesy, so he appeared to take no notice, and after giving his guests a cup of wine, politely bade them farewell.

Before this Colet had alarmed his more timid friend by the bold way in which he had dared to question the priest who guarded the gilded head.

He had even gone so far as to remark aloud that the saint who was so charitable in his lifetime, would surely be better pleased if some trifling part of these riches were spent in relieving the poor and destitute.

Upon which the monk had glared at him with Gorgon eyes, and, Erasmus felt sure, would have turned them out of the church forthwith, had it not been for Archbishop Warham's letter.

But in these words of the honest Dean we see a foreboding of the new and critical spirit that was fast undermining the old beliefs.

Already the days of pilgrimages were numbered, and the glories of St. Thomas were on the wane.

A few more years and the monks who guarded his treasures were rudely disturbed.

The glorious Shrine was stripped of its priceless gems.

The wrought gold and precious jewels were borne away in two enormous chests, such as six or seven men could barely lift.

The wonderful ruby which flashed fire in the darkness was set in a ring and worn by King Harry himself on his thumb.

Finally, to complete the sacrilege, the relics of the Saint were publicly burnt and his ashes scattered to the winds.

Only the broken pavement and the marks of the pilgrims' knees in the stone floor were left to show future generations this spot, hallowed by the prayers and the worship of past ages.

INDEX

Abbotsworthy, 34 Abbott, E. , "St. Thomas of Canterbury," 11 _note_ Abinger, 90;

discovery of Roman remains at, 99 Addington, cromlechs at, 146 Æthelred II.

, 153 Agincourt, battle of, 198 Albury, 18, 82;

yew hedge, 84;

church, 83;

Downs, 80;

view from, 80;

Park, 80, 87 Alexander III.

, Pope, 14 Alfred, King, 21, 72;

founds the Abbey of Hyde, 28 Alice Holt forest, 50 Allen, Mr. Grant, 5 Alresford, 35, 38;

New, cloth trade at, 39;

result of the Civil Wars, 40;

Old, 38 Alton, 28, 50 Anderida, forest of, 5 Apulderfelde, Thomas de, effigy of, 164 Aragon, Katherine of, portrait of, 131 Arle, ford of the, 38 Arundel, Thomas Howard, Earl of, 83;

collector of the Arundel marbles, 83;

portrait of, 83 Ash, 54 Ashburton, Lord, his famous Grange, 37 Ashford, 127;

vale of, 184 Athelstan, 112, 134, 153, 169 Atholl, Isabel, Countess of, 183 Austen, Cassandra, 48 Austen, Jane, 46;

her cottage at Chawton, 48;

novels, 48;

mode of life, 48;

letters, 49 Avington Park, 36 Aylesford, 144;

Common, 146 Badlesmere, Lord, of Leeds, 183 Baldwin, Archbishop, 172 Baliol, John, 212 Becket, St. Thomas, Archbishop of Canterbury, his murder, 7-9;

championship for the rights of the Church, 9;

journey to Canterbury, 9;

miracles and cures wrought by, 10-12, 206;

canonisation, 14;

removal of his body, 15, 206;

shrine, 16, 208-212;

fame, 16;

his house at Otford, 129;

legends, 131;

relics, 205, 207 Beggars' Corner, 58 Belloc, Hilaire, "The Old Road," vii Bentley Station, 52 Betchworth Park, 98 Bigberry Camp, 185;

wood, 185 Birinus, church of, 22 Birling, 142;

Place, 138 Bishop Sutton, 43 Black Prince, at Harbledown, 188;

memorials of, 190;

death, 191;

tomb, 210 Black Prince's Well, 190 Blackdown, 80 Blagge, Mistress, portrait of, 92 Blean, forest of, 186 Bletchingley, discovery of Roman remains at, 100 Blois, Henry of, 24, 52 Bocton, Aluphus de, 178 Bohemia, Queen Anne of, the arms of, 175 Boleyn, Anne, portrait of, 67 Boniface, Archbishop, 143 Boscawen, Mrs. , her birthplace, 132 Botley Hill, 118 Botolph, St. , church of, 122;

monuments, 122 Boughton Aluph church, 178 Boughton, Bocton or Boltune, 178 Boughton Lees, 178 Boughton Malherbe, 154 Boulogne, Eustace, Count of, 178 Box Hill, 94, 98 Boxley, the Cistercian Abbey of, 146;

relics, 147 Boxley, 151;

church, 152 Braboeuf Manor, 69 Brabourne, Lord, 49 Brent, Amy, 172 Brighton Downs, 107 Browne, Sir Richard, portrait of, 92 Brydges, George, 36 Buckingham, George Villiers, Duke of, 37 Buckland, 99 Bunker's Farm, 142 Bunyan, John, 101 Burford, 96 Burham church, 145 Calehill, 168 Calva, Ruald de, 77 Camden, W. , 104, 195 Canterbury, routes taken by pilgrims, 3-6, 20, 28;

number of, 16-18, 193, 198;

characteristics, 195;

the Chequers of the Hope Inn, 198;

religious houses, 200;

Priory of Christ Church, 200;

the Omers or Homers, 200;

Guest Hall, 201;

the Almonry, 201 Canterbury Cathedral, the murder of Becket in, 9;

"the choir of Conrad" destroyed by fire, 14;

rebuilt, 14;

number of pilgrims, 16-18, 193, 198;

master-builders, 203;

completion, 204;

Transept of the Martyrdom, 205;

relics, 205, 207;

miracles and cures, 206;

number of crusaders, 206;

amount of offerings, 207;

the Shrine, 208-212;

the Church of Our Lady of the Undercroft, 213 Challock, 178 Chanctonbury Ring, 76, 107 Chantrey, Sir F. L.

, his effigy of Lady Frederica Stanhope, 124 Chantry Woods, 75 Chantry Ford, 87 Charing, 18;

height of, 138;

chapel, 170;

church, 168, 171-173;

traditions, 169;

relic in, 171;

destroyed by fire, 173;

rebuilt, 173;

fair at, 170;

Hill, 168;

manor, the residence of Archbishops, 170 Charles I. , King, 53;

Prayer Book used by, 94 Charles II.

, King, 36 Charterhouse 80 Chatham, Lord, his visits to Chevening, 122 Chaucer, G. , lines from, 17, 186;

his pilgrims, 61, 191 Chawton, 46 Cheney, Sir John, 158 Cheney, Sir Thomas, 184 Chequers of the Hope Inn, 198 Cheriton battle, 41 Chevening church, 122;

monuments in, 122;

manor, 121;

Park, 121;

village, 122 Chilham Castle, 182-184;

manor-house, 184;

Park, 182 Chillenden Prior, 198, 201 Chilworth, 78;

powder-mills, 78-80 Ciderhouse Cottage, 75;

Lane, 75 Clere, St. , mansion, 132 Cobbett, Richard, 54 Cobbett, William, his "Rural Rides," 5, 35, 76, 78, 106, 109, 152;

his birthplace, 54;

at Albury, 84;

Godstone, 114 Cold-harbour Green, 118 Colet, Dean, at Harbledown, 188-190;

his visit to Canterbury Cathedral, 208;

in the Church of Our Lady of the Undercroft, 213-215;

treatment of the relics, 214 Colley Farm, 99;

discovery of Roman remains at, 99 Compton, 58, 63, 69;

church, 63 Copley, Sir Roger, 109 Corby Castle, 30 Courtenay, Archbishop, 143 Crooksbury, heights of, 54 St. Cross, Hospital of, 24 Crowborough Beacon, 107 Culpeper, Elizabeth, Lady, monument to, 158 Culpeper, John, Lord, the tapestries and altar-cloth worked by his daughters, 156;

monument to, 158 Culpeper, Sir Thomas, 159 Cuxton ford, 141 Dacre, Lord, 121. _See_ Lennard Danefield, 129 Darent valley, 126 Dartford, 126 Dawkins, Prof. Boyd, 185 Day, Bishop, letter from, 68 Deane, Archbishop, 130 Deepdene Park, 98 Denbies Park, 97 Denmark, Anne of, 66;

portrait of, 66 Deptford, 3 Detling, 152;

height of, 138 Digges, Sir Dudley, 184 Dios, Mr. , 173 Dorking, 95, 97 Dover, 3 Dover, Fulbert de, 183 Drummond, Mr. , 83 Dungeness, 168 Dürer, Albert, 112 East Grinstead, 107 Eastbridge Hospital, 196 Eastwell, 176;

church, 177;

House, 177;

Park, 126 Edinburgh, H. R.

H.

the Duke of, his residence Eastwell House, 177 Edward I. , King, 26, 130, 142, 212;

at Harbledown, 188 Edward II.

, King, 50;

his visit to Boxley Abbey, 148 Edward III.

, King, 196 Edward IV.

, King, 173 Edward VI.

, King, 105;

portrait of, 67 Edward, the Black Prince, at Harbledown, 188;

memorials of, 190;

death, 191;

tomb, 210 Effingham, Lady Howard of, 105 Egbert, King, 33 Egerton Church, 168 Eleanor of Castille, Queen, 188 Elizabeth, Queen, 53;

her visits to Loseley, 66;

to Leeds Castle, 154 Elliston-Erwood, Mr. , "The Pilgrims' Road," vi Erasmus, at Harbledown, 188-190;

his impressions of Canterbury Cathedral, 192, 203;

on the relics, 207;

in the Church of Our Lady of the Undercroft, 213-215 Estria, Prior Henry of, 179, 202 Ethelbald, King of Wessex, 52 Ethelred the Unready, 113 Ethelwold, Bishop, 22 Evelyn, John, 78, 84;

his home at Wotton, 90;

portrait, 92 Evershed's Rough, 90 Ewhurst Mill, 80 Fairlawn House, 136 Fairlight hill, 168 Farnham, 52;

Castle, 52 Farrer, Sir Thomas, 100 Farringford, 180 Farthing copse, 77 Fitz Urse, Reginald, 9 Froyle Park, 52 Gatton church, 111;

House, 111;

park, 108, 112;

town hall, 110 George I. , King, 121 Gethin, Dame Grace, inscription on her monument, 159 Gethin, Sir Richard, 159 Giffard, Lady, 56 St. Giles' Hill, fair at, 31 Godmersham, 50;

church, 179;

manor, 179;

park, 178, 182 Godstone, 114;

The White Hart or Clayton Arms, 114 Godwin, Earl, 168, 178 Goldstone, Prior, 203, 213 Gomshall station, 94 Gravesend, 138 Greenway Court, 157 Greenwich, 3 Gresham, Sir John, 119 Gresham, Sir Marmaduke, 119 Gresham, Sir Thomas, 119;

founder of the Royal Exchange, 119;

portrait, 119 Grey, Richard de, founds a Carmelite Priory, 145 Grose, F. , "Antiquities of England and Wales," 77 _note_ Grove Court, 157 Guildford, 3, 51, 57, 72;

fair at, 58 Gurdon, Adam de, 45, 51 Hackhurst Downs, 94 Halfpenny Lane, 77 Halling, Lower, 142;

Upper, 142 Hampshire, 20 Harbledown, 179, 186;

leper-house, 186;

relic in, 187;

royal visitors, 198;

first sight of Canterbury Cathedral from, 191 Harrietsham, 160;

church, monuments in, 161 Hastings, 168;

Battle of, 161 Headbourne Worthy, 31;

derivation of the name, 33;

church, 33 _Helix pomatia_, 18 Hengist, proclaimed the first king of Kent, 146 Henry I. , King, 29, 41 Henry II.

, King, his penance at Becket's tomb, 4, 14, 206;

visit to the leper-house at Harbledown, 188 Henry III.

, King, 16, 24, 52, 57, 206 Henry IV.

, King, monument of, 208 Henry V. , King, 211 Henry VI.

, King, 109, 161 Henry VII.

, King, 158;

his visit to Charing, 171 Henry VIII.

, King, 109, 129, 130;

portrait of, 131;

visit to Charing, 171 Herault, Isaac, 94 Hethe, Bishop Hamo de, 142 Hindhead, 72, 76, 80, 107 Hog's Back, 54, 57, 63, 76 Holbein, Hans, 66 Holland, Mary Sybilla, 179 Hollingbourne, 152, 153;

height of, 138;

history, 153;

church, monuments in the, 158;

manor-house, 154;

traditions, 154 Holm Castle, 104. _See_ Reigate Holmbury, 90 Holmesdale, valley of, 104 Honywood, Anthony, 165 Honywood, Dame Mary, 165 Horn Hatch, 101 Horne, Robert, Bishop of Winchester, letter from, 68 Hutton, W. H.

, "Thomas Becket," 9 _note_ Hyde, Abbey of, 28;

history, 29;

ruins, 30;

desecration of tombs, 30 Ightham House, 136 Isabel, Queen, her reception at Chilham, 183 Islip, Simon, 130, 134 Itchen Abbas, 35, 37 Itchen river, 28, 29, 39;

valley, 35 Itchen Stoke, 37 James I. , King, 65;

his visit to Loseley, 66;

portrait, 66 James, Capt. E.

Renouard, "Notes on the Pilgrims' Way in West Surrey," 101 _note_ John, King, 38, 73, 178;

legend of, 82;

coronation, 206 John, King of France, 188 Johnson, Mrs. Hester, 56 Jones, Sir Inigo, 121, 132 Josse, St. , shrine of, 29 Julaber's grave, 183 Katherine's, St. , Chapel, 69, 71;

Hill, fair at, 59 Kemsing, 132;

church and well, 132 Ken, Morris, 50 Kent, Aldric, king of, 129 Kent, John, brass to, 33 Kent, Pilgrims' Way through, 126 Kingsworthy, 33 Kitchin, Dean, on the fair at St. Giles' Hill, 32, 40 Kits Coty House, 145 Knight, Sir Richard, his monument in Chawton Church, 46 Knockholt down, height of, 138 Laberius, Julius, 183 Lambarde, W. , 190;

at Otford, 132 Lanfranc, Archbishop, 153, 169, 176;

founds a lazar-house at Harbledown, 186 Langton, Stephen, Archbishop, 16 Leeds Castle, 154, 157 Leith Hill, 107 Leland, J. , 170, 184, 195, 201 Len river, 161 Lenham, 161;

church, 162-165;

tithe barns, 165 Lennard, John, his monument, 122 Lennard, Richard, Lord Dacre, 121 Leveson, Sir John, quarterings of, 143 Leveson-Gower, Mr. , 100, 119 Leyborne, Juliana de, 161, 178 Limnerslease, 69 Limpsfield Lodge Farm, 117 Littleton Cross, shrine of, 69 Long Beech Woods, 175 Loseley manor, 64;

royal visitors, 66;

portraits, 67;

royal warrants, 67;

letters, 68 Louis VII.

, King of France, 212 Louis VIII.

, King of France, 72, 105 Lucy, Bishop Godfrey, 25;

rebuilds the town of Alresford, 38 Lyall, Sir Alfred, 180;

his verses, 180;

death, 180 Maidstone, 143 Marden Park, 116 Martha's, St. , Hill, 80;

chapel, 70, 76;

view from, 76 Martyr's Hill, 76 Martyrsworthy, 34 Massilia, 4 Medway river, 140, 142;

valley, 137, 138 Mercia, Cenulph, King of, 169 Mercia, Offa, King of, 129, 169 Meredith, G. , "Diana of the Crossways," 91 _note_ Merstham, 108, 112;

church, 113 Miller, Sir Hubert, 52 Milton, John, his line on the River Mole, 95 Mole river, 95, 99;

valley, 94 Monks' Hatch, 69 Monks' Walk, Winchester, 31, 33 Monson, Lord, 109, 111 Moor Park, 55 More, Antonio, 119 More, Sir Christopher, 64 More, Sir William, 64 Morley, Bishop, 53 Morne Hill, 25 Morton, Cardinal, his buildings at Charing, 170 Moyle, Sir Thomas, Speaker of the House of Commons, 177 Mytens, D. , his portraits, 66 Newark Hospital, 143;

Priory, 77 Newcourt, Geoffery de, 174 Newcourt manor, 174 Newlands Corner, 80, 82 Nore, the, 138 Nore Hill, 46 Norfolk, Duke of, 53 North Downs, 107, 118 Nowell, Alexander, Dean of St. Paul's, letter from, 68 Nuns' Walk, Winchester, 31 Odo of Bayeux, 161 Otford, 126;

manor-house, 129;

battles at, 129;

the Bull Inn, 131;

legends, 131 Oxted, 117 Paddlesworth or Paulsford, 138 Palmer, Mr. , his treatise on "Three Surrey Churches," vi Palmers Wood, 19, 116 Paternoster Lane, 19, 98 St. Paul's Cathedral, 76 Peckham, John, the Franciscan Archbishop, 170 Penenden Heath, 150;

memorable assembly held at, 150 Pett Place, 174 Pette-juxta-Charing, 174 Pilgrims to Canterbury, routes taken by, 3-6, 20, 28;

number of, 12, 16-18, 193, 198;

traces of, 18, 58;

characteristics, 60 Pilgrims' Chapel, 98 Pilgrims' Ferry, 19, 74 Pilgrims' House, 138 Pilgrims' Lodge, 19, 120 Pilgrims' Place, 43 Plantagenet, Richard, his death at Eastwell, 177 Plantagenet's Well, 177 Pray Meadows, 98 Puttenham, 58;

fair at, 59;

Heath, 63 Quarry Hangers, 114 Quarry Hills, 101, 168 Ranmore Common, 98 Redhill, 96 Reigate, 99, 103;

chapels, 104;

hill, 107;

park, 106 Richard Coeur de Lion, his return from the Holy Land, 171;

at Harbledown, 188;

Canterbury, 206 Richard III.

, King, 177 Ripley, 77 Robbers' or Roamers Moor, 58 Robertson, T. C.

, "Materials for the History of Archbishop Becket," 12 _note_ Rochester, 3, 141 Romney Marsh, 168 Rood, the miraculous, or winking image, 148 Ropley, 43 Rotherfield Park, 43 Rumbold, St. , the image of, 147 Rupibus, Peter de, 45 Rutupine, Port, 4 Salisbury, John of, Bishop of Chartres, 12 Saltwood Castle, 9 Sandwich Haven, 3, 4, 73 Sandy Lane, 69 Scott, Sir Walter, on the death of Jane Austen, 50 Seale, 58;

church, 59 Selborne, 44 Sellyng, Prior William, 154, 203 Sesto, Cesare da, 111 Sevenoaks, 107 Shalford, 74;

fair at, 59, 74;

park, 75 Shere, 88;

church, 87 Shoelands, manor-house of, 58 Shooters' Hill, 138 Shrewsbury, Francis, Earl of, 37 Shrewsbury, Lady, 36 Shrewsbury, Roger de Montgomery, Earl of, 64 Silchester, 28 Silent Pool, 82;

legend of, 82 Sittingbourne, 3 Snails, or _Helix pomatia_, 18 Snodland, limestone works, 137, 140 Snowden-Ward, Mr. H.

, "The Canterbury Pilgrimages," vi Somers, Earl, 106 Somerset, Lady Henry, 106 South Downs, 76 South Leith Hill, 76 Southampton, 3, 20, 35 Spenser, Edmund, his lines on the Mole, 95 Stane Street, 97 Stanhope, Charles, Earl, 122 Stanhope, General, 121 Stanhope, Lady Frederica, effigy of, 124 Stanhope, Lady Hester, 122 Stanhope, James, Earl, monument to, 124 Stanley, Dean, 5;

extract from his account of the Canterbury pilgrimage, 6;

on the characteristics of pilgrims, 60 Stede, Sir William, monument to, 161 Stede Hill, 160 Stour river, 162, 196;

valley, 182, 185 Strangers' Hall, Winchester, 26 Stratford, Archbishop, 196, 197;

at Charing, 170 Sudbury, Simon of, 193 Surrenden Dering, 168 Sussex Downs, 168 Swift, J. , 56 Swithun, St. , Bishop of Winchester, 3;

his shrine, 21;

removal of his bones, 22;

miracles wrought, 22;

number of pilgrims to his shrine, 25 Tatsfield church, 120 Temple, Sir William, 56 Thames river, 126;

valley, 76, 138 Thomas', St. , Hill, 195;

Hospital, 196;

Well, 117 Thurnham, 152 Tichborne, Isabella, 41 Tichborne, Sir Roger, 41 Tichborne Park, 41;

legend of the Dole, 41-43 Tillingbourne stream, 87 Titsey Park, 117;

discovery of Roman remains at, 100;

Place, 117 Trottescliffe (Trosley), 138 Tunbridge Wells, 107 Tupper, Martin, 82 Tyting's Farm, 77 Vandyck, A. , portrait by, 83 Vane, Sir Harry, 136 Vigo Inn, 138 Vinci, Leonardo da, iii Walkelin, Bishop, his church, 25 Walter, Archbishop Hubert, 196, 206 Wanborough, 59;

church, 60 War Camp or Cardinal's Cap, 114 Warham, Archbishop, 149, 171, 208 Warrenne, William of, 104 Watling Street, 141, 186 Watts, George Frederic, 69 Wauncey, Richard de, 69 Waverley Abbey, 56, 59 Waynflete, Bishop William of, 45, 78 Wen, the, 5 Wessex, 21 Westerham, 121 Westhumble Lane, 98 Weston Wood, 80 Westwell, 175;

church, 175;

manor, 176 Wey, river, 51, 57, 72, 75 White, Gilbert, his house at Selborne, 44 White Hill Downs, 114 Whiteway End, 57 Whitgift, Archbishop, 196 Whorne Place, 142 Wibert, Prior, 203 Wickens, manor-house, 172 Wilberforce, Samuel, Bishop of Winchester, place of his death, 90 William III.

, King, 56, 106 William, King of Scotland, at Canterbury, 206 Winchelsea, Archbishop, 130, 164;

his enthronement, 194;

death, 194;

statutes, 201 Winchester, 3, 20;

the shrine of St. Swithun, 21;

number of churches and chapels, 22;