Amid the High Hills — The Secret of the High Hills

THE SECRET OF THE HIGH HILLS

“I shall never forget that day, or the self-sacrifice and bravery of those men in that Brigade.

” The speaker was a chaplain attached to one of the Highland Brigades which had been fighting in France.

“We were told that a particular position had to be taken, and the work was allotted to certain of the Highland regiments.

My work was to attend the dying after the attack was over and the position carried at the point of the bayonet.

Amongst them was a piper who had shown extraordinary bravery in the assault, and who, though wounded three times, had persisted in carrying on and playing his pipes until he fell mortally wounded just as the assault, after very heavy fighting, was proving successful.

He knew he was dying, and gave me messages for his wife and family.

He was evidently a man of strong faith, and had no fear of death.

Just before his valiant spirit passed away, he whispered, ‘Oh, if I could only see the high hills again before I die.

’ His words deeply impressed me, and I have often thought of them since.

” This story of the dying piper, told to me in such simple and touching language, set me thinking and wondering.

I could not help feeling that those last words of the gallant Highlander would strike a sympathetic chord in the hearts not only of those whose most cherished and sacred memories are bound up with the Highlands of Scotland, but of countless numbers of others who also love that country.

In the days of peace I had often pondered over the irresistible fascination of this call from the North.

The Highlands of Scotland!

Is there any one who has ever seen them, or who knows even slightly something of their romantic and enchanting history, who can fail to understand the passionate devotion of any one with Highland blood in his veins to that wonderful land?

“All the world over the sons of the heather and the mist, in however distant or alien lands they may be, feel always, as they steer their way through life, that there is a pole-star by which they set their compass; and that some day, perhaps, they or their children may steer the boat to a haven on some rocky shore, where the whaup calls shrilly on the moors above the loch, and the heather grows strong and tough on the hill-side, and the peat reek rises almost like the incense of an evening prayer against a grey, soft sky in the land of the north.

”[35] From the lone shieling on the misty island Mountains divide us, and a waste of seas.

Yet still the blood is strong, the heart is highland, And we in dreams behold the Hebrides.

[36] How many a man at the end of July or the beginning of August, worn out with his work in Parliament, or the Law Courts, or elsewhere, turns his face and his thoughts to the North, and finds even in his anticipations and dreams of the days to come refreshment and solace!

In most things in this life the anticipation is far greater than the reality, but not so in this case.

In the hearts of how many men and women do the words of Aytoun find a responsive echo: Give me but one hour of Scotland, * * * * * Southern gales are not for me;

Though the glens are white with winter, Place me there and set me free.

Why is it that so many persons, young and old, and of such different character, habits, and classes, are fascinated and held by the spell of this country?

What is the motive which is common to them all, if there is one?

No doubt with some it is the longing for rest and change of scene, or the opportunity of meeting old friends or relatives in the far North, with others the desire for sport or the gratification of artistic tastes, and with others the ardent yearning to hear again the old familiar sounds, familiar since their early childhood--the sound of the rushing burn, the breaking of the sea on the rock-bound shore, the call of the sea-birds--and to see once more the high hills and silvery lochs and scent again the fragrant heather.

But underlying all these, and perhaps more often than not quite unconsciously, there is one dominant governing motive which is surely spiritual rather than material--the desire for the environment which will uplift and ennoble, and with it bring a sense of being nearer to the pure--nearer to the things that are unseen and eternal--removed from all that is coarse and material.

[Illustration: “THE MORNING COMETH.

” By FINLAY MACKINNON.

] I well remember on one occasion discussing the question of the future world with a Highland keeper, and the emphatic way in which he said, “One thing is certain, and that is, that no one could be an atheist if he spent his life on the mountains.

” I also remember that, curiously enough, the same observation was made by one Cambridge undergraduate to another, the speaker having been in the habit of spending days and nights camping out on the mountains in his father’s Highland property.

It is not inappropriate that in the Gaelic language the words used to signify “death” and “died” are not the same when used in reference to a human being as the words which are used in reference to an animal, the former words, _caochladh_ (substantive), _chaochail_ (verb), signifying a change or passing from one state of life into another, the latter _bas_ (substantive), _bhasaich_ (verb), extinction or annihilation.

On the sea coast, at the mouth of one of the sea lochs on the west coast of Ross-shire, I have often waited for the dawn, looking up the loch towards the high hills in the distance, and, whilst I waited, there would come into my mind those impressive words of the prophet Isaiah, “Watchman, what of the night?

” The watchman said, “The morning cometh.

” No one who has had this experience and seen the sun rise in its splendour over the high hills, flooding the surface of the sea with brilliant crimson light, will ever forget the scene, or the uplifting of spirit and sense of abiding peace which it imparted.

INDEX

_Acanthyllis caudacuta_, 40, 55 _Acanthyllis gigantea_, 55 Aeroplane, observations on flight of birds from, 50 Age of stags, 110-11 Air speed, 25 _A Joy for Ever_, 181 Alpine swift, 41-2, 49-53, 56-7 American golden plover, 33 _An Angler’s Paradise_, 191 Applecross, 141-2 _Apus_, 53 Armour, G. Denholm, 58 Attadale, 73 Australia, birds of fastest flight in, 54 _Avicultural Magazine_, 54 _n.

_ Aytoun, 218 Baker, E. Stuart, 55 Balfour-Browne, Vincent, 164 Bas, 217 Bhasaich, 217 Birds, speeds of various British, 35-6 Birds of Australia, twelve swiftest, 54 _Birds of Europe, History of_, 53 _n.

_ Birds of Fastest Flight in the British Isles, 23-70 _Birds of Great Britain_, 146 Birds of prey, 39-52, 57-70, 136-54 Blackcock, 35, 37, 45, 50, 58-9, 65, 138 Black game, killed by peregrines and eagles, 29, 66, 137-8, 149 Blaine, Captain G. S.

, 45, 148 Blanford, W. T.

, 56 Blue rock pigeons, 35, 44-5 Bond, William Walpole, 47 _Book of the Sea Trout_, 192 British Museum (Natural History), 41 Browne, Bishop G. F.

, 22 _n.

_ Buzzard, 49 Caberslach, 74 Calf, deer, attacked by eagle, 142 _Canadian Boat Song_, 217 Caochladh, 219 Capercailzie, probably fastest flying game bird, 45, 50 Carter, H. R.

P.

, 57 Cats, killed by eagles, 138 _Chaetura_, 51, 53 _Chaetura caudacuta caudacuta_, 40, 53, 55 _Chaetura caudacuta cochinchinensis_, 55 _Chaetura nudipes_, 55-6, 57 Chaochail, 217 Chaytor, Arthur H. , K.

C.

, 93-5 Clough, Arthur Hugh, 21 Coignafearn, Forest of, 71 Common swift, 40-42, 46, 49, 50, 53 Corvidae, 36 Crealock, Lieut.

-General, 204 Crow, killed by eagle, 68-9 Culture, trout, 189 Curlew, 36, 69 Currachd an righ, 179 _Cypselus apus_, 40 _Cypselus melba_, 40 Danger of wounded stags, 157 Deer, Homing Instincts of Wounded, 123-35 Deer calves, attacked by eagles, 139 Deer-hounds, 128 Deer-stalking, 1, 2, 4, 5, 6-11, 97-112, 123-35, 155-64, 170-81, 197-214 _Deer-stalking in the Highlands of Scotland_, 204 Depth of loch for good trout fishing, 196 Downward flight of the eagle, 57-70 Dresser, Henry E. , 53, 53 _n.

_ 55 _Dry-Fly Man’s Handbook_, 194 Duck, wild, 28-9, 36, 70, 136 Duck-shooting, 165 Duel between eagle and peregrine, 61-2 Eagle, 36-7, 49, 57-9, 62-5, 67, 69, 70, 107, 136-8, 142, 153 attack on a full-grown stag, 139 downward flight of, 57-60 food of, 38, 136-7 weight of, 60 Eggs, number of trout, 195 Eleonora’s falcons, 51 _Falco candicans_, 38 _Falco gyrfalco_, 38 _Falco islandus_, 38 Falconer, 34, 36, 152 Falcons, 28, 30, 36, 43, 46, 51-2, 57-60, 62, 68, 70, 143-5, 149, 151, 153 Eleonora’s, 51 Greenland, 38-9 Iceland, 38-9 Northern, 38-9, 57 Fastest bird in British Isles, 57, 70 Fealar, 74, 170 _Field Studies of some Rarer British Birds_, 47 Fighting, stags killed in, 73 Finlayson, John, stalker, Killilan, 66 Finlayson, stalker, Applecross, 142 Fisher, Major C. H.

, 149 Fishing, fly-, 13-22, 92-5, 113-22 minnow-, 93 salmon, 12-22, 85 Flight in the British Isles, Birds of Fastest, 23-70 of the eagle, downward, 57 horizontal, 37 Forest, Stormy Week in the, 97-112 Fox cubs, killed by eagles, 138 dens, 139 Fresh-water shrimp, 184 Frigate bird, 54 _Fuligula ferina_, 30 Gaelic sayings and words, 111, 179, 219 Gannet, downward flight of, 63 Geese, speed of, 36 Glen Carron Forest, 8 Glen Shieldaig Forest, 140 Golden eagle (_see_ Eagle) weight of the, 60 plover, 32-3, 35-6, 43, 45-6, 57, 69 American, 33 Goose, solan, 63 Goshawks, 143 Gould, John, F. R.

S.

, 54, 146 Green Plover, 35 Greenland Falcon, 38-9 Greyhen, 149 Ground speed, 25 Grouse, 29, 59, 68, 107, 136-7, 144-146, 149-51, 153 Gulls, 43 Gyrfalcon, weight of the, 60 Gyrfalcons, 38-40, 57, 60, 63, 66 Halford, F. M.

, 191 _n.

_, 194 Hares, killed by eagles, 136, 138 Harrier, 49 Hartley, Gilfrid W. , 197 Hawk, sparrow-, 49, 143, 147-8 Hawks, 30, 48, 136, 142-53 Hereford, 88 Highlands of Scotland, fascination of, 216 Hobby, 45-6, 49 Homing Instincts of Wounded Deer, 123-35 Hounds, deer-, 128 Hummel, 74 Hurrell, H. G.

, 39 Hutton, J. Arthur, 94-5 Iceland falcon, 38-9 Jackdaw, 35 Jura, 111 Kestrel, 35, 49, 142 Killilan, 66 King’s night-cap, 179 Kite, 49 Lambs, killed by eagles, 138 _Lame Dog’s Diary_, 217 Landrail, speed of, 35 Last Stalk of the Season, 170-81 _Letters to a Salmon Fisher’s Sons_, 93 _Life History and Habits of Salmon, etc. _, 190, 193 Loch Carron, 10 Leven, 185 trout, 191 Luichart, 204 problem, 182 Lodges in the Highlands, highest shooting, 171 Lost in the Forest, 209 Macdougall, stalker, Fealar, 171 McIver, Donald, 66 Mackay, John, stalker, North Jura, 111 Mackenzie, Alick, stalker, Applecross, 141 Maclennan, watcher, Coignafearn, 72 Macnaughtan, S. , 217 Mallard, 30-31, 33-5, 70 Malloch, P. D.

, 190, 191 _n.

_, 192-3, 196 Mar Forest, 74 Marryat, 194 Matheson, Donald, stalker, Glen Shieldaig, 140 Meinertzhagen, D. S.

O.

, Colonel R. , 27, 31, 33, 35, 42, 50, 52 Merlin, 35, 45-6, 49, 147 Mesopotamia, swifts in, 50 Minnow-fishing for salmon, 93 Mosul, swifts in, 50 Muckle Hart of Ben More, 164 Murray, Charles J. , Esq.

, of Loch Carron, 10, 140 Natural History Museum at South Kensington, 41 _Natural History of Sport in Scotland with Rod and Gun_ (Speedy), 150, 191, 205 Nature’s cures of wounded deer, 196-914 Needle-tailed swift, 40, 52-3 Nerve Centres in deer, 214 Northern falcons, 38-9, 57 Orrin, 149 Otter, salmon killed by, 20, 86 Partridges, 27, 99, 35, 147, 149 Passeres, smaller, 36 Patt Forest, 66 Peregrine, horizontal flight of, 26-40, 42, 45-6, 49, 52, 137 downward flight of, 57-63, 68-70 food of, 38 how it strikes its prey, 142-54 weight of, 60 Perils, of stalkers, 81 _Peschiera_, 21 Petrels, 43 Pheasants, 29, 35, 58-9, 144-5 Pigeons, 37, 44-5 blue rock, 44-5 rock-, 51 speed of, 36 wood, 35, 152 Plover, 33 American golden, 33 golden, 32-3, 35-6, 43, 45-6, 57, 69 green, 35 “Poca buidhè,” 180 Pochard, 30-31, 45 Portal, D. S.

O.

, Captain C. F.

A.

, 26, 34, 52, 146, 151 Prey, birds of (_see_ Birds of prey) Ptarmigan, 3, 65, 107, 136 Rabbits, 136 Radclyffe, Major C. R.

E.

, 28-30, 34, 39, 44, 65, 143, 151 Red sedge, 186 _Reminiscences of a Falconer_, 149 Robinson, W. H.

, 69 Rock-pigeon, 51 Rook, 35, 154 Royal stag, 80, 174, 179, 204 Ruskin, 181 St. John, Charles, 32, 164 Salmon fishing, 12-22, 85-96, 113-122 Salmon Loch in Sutherland, 113-22 Sanctuary, 123 Saunders, Howard, 53 _n.

_ Secret of the High Hills, 215-20 Sedge, cinnamon, 186 red, 186 Seebohm, 54 Sheringham, H. T.

, 96 Shooting, duck-, 165 Shrimp, fresh-water, 184 Shrimp-weed, 184 Snipe, 28-9, 65 Solan goose, 63 Sovenson, E. S.

, 54 Sparrow-hawks, 49, 143, 147-8 Speed, air, 25 ground, 25 of Australian birds, 54 Speeds of British birds, table of, 35-6 fastest, 57, 70 Speedy, Tom, 151-3 Speedy’s _Natural History of Sport in Scotland with Rod and Gun_, 205 Spine-tailed swift, 40-42, 51-3, 55-57, 70 Spring-tide, 165 Stags, age of, 110-11 attacking stalkers, wounded, 155 danger of wounded 157 eagles attack full-grown, 139 stalking (_see_ Deer-stalking) Stalkers, 64, 71 wounded stags attacking, 155 Stalking, 1, 2, 4, 5, 6-11, 71-84, 97-112, 123-35, 155-64, 170-81, 197-214 mistakes in, 6-10 _Stalks Abroad_, 156 Starling, 35-6 Stormy Week in the Forest, 97-112 Strathconan, 66-7 Stuart, Hamish, 192 Surgeon of the Deer Forest, 196-214 Sutherland, A Salmon Loch in, 113 Swallows, 43 Swan, 152 Swift, 36, 40, 42-8, 50-51 Alpine, 41-2, 49-53, 56-7 common, 40-42, 46, 49-50, 53 needle-tailed _or_ spine-tailed, 40-42, 51-3, 55, 70 Switch-horn, 73-4 Tame pigeons, 36 Teal, 28, 33-6, 46, 57 Tennyson, 21 _n.

_ Three, luck in number, 92 Tickell, 55 Tiercel, 42, 46 Tracker, 128 Trout eggs, number of, 195 loch, how to improve, 182-96 Velocity of falling birds, 61 Waders, speed of, 36 Wallace, Frank, 156 Weight, influence of in flight, 30, 60 of the eagle, 60 of the gyrfalcon, 60 of the peregrine, 60 Wild duck, 28-9, 36-70 _Wild Sport with Gun, Rifle, and Salmon Rod_, 197 _Wild Sports and Natural History of the Highlands_, 37, 164 Willoughby, Colonel the Hon. Claude, 141 Wings, 54, 58, 142, 145, 150 Witherby, H. F.

, 53 _n.

_ Wood pigeon, 35, 152 Woodcock, 28-30 Wounded Deer, Homing Instincts of, 123-35 stags, attacking stalkers, 155-64 danger of, 81, 157 Wye, river, 12, 85 _Printed in Great Britain by_ R. & R.

CLARK, LIMITED, _Edinburgh_.

FOOTNOTES.

[1] “The Death of the Wye,” _Images and Meditations, a Book of Poems_, by Mary Duclaux.

T.

Fisher Unwin, Ltd. , London.

[2] It is singular that this poem was written and published in 1849, and that Tennyson’s _In Memoriam_, which contained the famous lines: “’T is better to have loved and lost, Than never to have loved at all,” was written in 1834 but not published until 1850, and then anonymously.

This is surely very remarkable, for it is impossible to believe that a man of the high and noble character of Clough would have consciously plagiarised any other poet.

[3] After the publication of these verses in the above article, as it originally appeared in the issue of _Country Life_ for August 6, 1921, their authorship was discovered through the kindness of some of the readers of that journal and the enterprise of its editor.

In a letter in _Country Life_ for August 27, 1921, Bishop G.

F.

Browne, late Lord Bishop of Bristol, thus describes their origin.

“The first three stanzas were composed at Lowick Rectory, Northants, by the rector, J. S.

Watson, his daughter Betty, and Dean Ingram of Peterborough.

The authors felt that there ought to be a concluding stanza, ambiguously stating a final result.

I told the story to Father Waggett on our way from Bournemouth to Clouds, and he suggested ‘booked it’ as the point of a last stanza.

On that hint I wrote the stanza.

In my book I remark that its tendency would be unjust to any real fisherman’s imaginative powers.

” [4] December 11, 18, 25, 1921. [5] January 28, February 4, 11, 18, 1922. [6] _Field_, February 18, 1922, p. 233. [7] “Velocity of Flight among Birds,” by Colonel R. Meinertzhagen, D. S.

O.

, in the _Ibis_ for April 1921, pp. 237-238. [8] _Field_, February 18, 1922, p. 234. [9] _Wild Sports of the Highlands_, chap.

x.

p. 135. [10] _Field_, February 18, 1922, pp. 233-234. [11] _Ibis_, April 1921, p. 234. [12] _Wild Sports and Natural History of the Highlands_, by Charles St. John, ch. x.

p. 131. [13] See also the letter of Mr. H.

G.

Hurrell in the _Field_ for March 8, 1923. [14] This is a very considerable warning--H. F.

[15] Pp. 258-259 (Witherby & Co. , London, 1914).

[16] Pp. 35, 36. [17] _Manual of British Birds_, by Howard Saunders, 2nd ed.

(Gurney & Jackson, London), pp. 264, 266. [18] _History of the Birds of Europe_, by Henry E. Dresser, F. L. S.

, F.

Z.

S.

(1871-1881), vol. iv.

p. 617. [19] _A Practical Handbook of British Birds_, edited by H. F.

Witherby, vol. ii.

pp. 7, 9. Witherby & Co. , London, 1920. [20] _Handbook to the Birds of Australia_, by John Gould, F. R.

S.

(1865), vol. i.

p. 104. London.

[21] Vol. ii.

p. 305, Porter, 6 Tenterden Street, W. ; Dulau & Co. , Soho Square, W. , 1884. [22] _Avicultural Magazine_, Third Series, vol. x.

No. 4, February 1919, pp. 73-74. [23] Vol. iv.

p. 616. [24] _British Birds Magazine_, vol. xvi.

No. 1 (June 1, 1922), p. 31. [25] _The Fauna of British India including Ceylon and Burma Birds_, vol. iii.

p. 173. Published under the authority of the Secretary of State for India in Council.

Taylor & Francis, London, 1895. [26] _Ibid.

_ p. 174. [27] March 15, 1923. [28] _Ornithological Dictionary of Birds_, by Col. G.

Montagu: 2nd edition by James Rennie, London, 1831. [29] _Rough Shooting_, by Richard Clapham, ch. vii.

pp. 125-126. Heath Cranton, Ltd. , London, 1922. [30] In _One Hundred Years in the Highlands_, p. 132 (Edward Arnold, London, 1921), Mr. Osgood Mackenzie quotes an extract from a diary of his uncle, Dr. John Mackenzie of Eileanach, in which an incident of this kind is described as having occurred in Kinlochewe Forest.

[31] Adam & Charles Black, London, 1910. [32] See, for instance, the opinions of Mr. F.

M.

Halford in _The Dry-Fly Man’s Handbook_, p. 395 (George Routledge & Sons, Ltd. , London); Mr. P.

D.

Malloch at p. 179 in the work previously cited; Mr. J.

J.

Armistead in _An Angler’s Paradise, and how to obtain it_; and Mr. Tom Speedy in _The Natural History of Sport in Scotland with Rod and Gun_ (William Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh and London, 1920).

[33] Martin Secker, London, 1917. [34] _The Dry-Fly Man’s Handbook_, p. 319 (George Routledge & Sons, Ltd. , London).

[35] _A Lame Dog’s Diary_, by S. Macnaughtan, pp. 239, 240 (John Murray, London, 1915).

[36] “Canadian Boat Song,” _St.

Andrew’s Treasury of Scottish Verse_, by Mrs. Alexander Lawson and Alexander Lawson, pp. 133, 134 (A.

& C.

Black, Ltd. , London, 1920).

* * * * * Transcriber’s note: Inconsistent use of hyphens, such as burn-side/burnside and gyr-falcon/gyrfalcon, has been retained.

Page viii: M^cIver (superscript c) changed to McIver to match other instances in the book.

Index: “Cats, killed by eagles, 38” changed to “Cats, killed by eagles, 138”.

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