California — 06 - Ch. 15-16
CHAPTER XV.
The party determine to start for Bear River Sickness at the mines What happened to a drunken Indian An old trapper and his stories Captain Sutter's first settlement Indians partial to horse-flesh A score of horses stolen An expedition to revenge the theft A rancheria demolished A chorus of yells Indians routed and then brought to labour Tin Bear River The trapper engaged as guide Preparations for the journey An addition to the party The journey commenced Rocky country Cross the North Fork An accident to a mule Flour cakes and bacon scraps Resume the journey Precipitous ravines End of the journey.
_Monday, July 24th_.
--We have determined to start for the Bear River.
We worked hard last week, but suffered greatly from the heat; almost every man of us complains of feverish symptoms, with pains in the limbs, back, and loins, yet we are better than the majority of the miners.
These washings have now become nearly as crowded as the Mormon diggings were when we left them, and immense sums have been made by some of the luckier adventurers amongst the ravines.
The whole valley is dotted over with tents and green bush arbours, and there is hardly a watercourse but which is sprinkled with miners, digging, sifting, and washing.
About half of the people work together in companies--the other half shift each for himself.
There are hundreds of Indians, many of them fantastically dressed, for they can purchase fine clothing now, even at the extravagant rates at which all articles are charged at Weber's store.
They labour one day, and get drunk on pisco or the "strong water" on another.
One of them rolled down a rocky ravine lately, in an intoxicated state, and was killed.
As we were lying down in the shade of the tent yesterday, we were visited by an old trapper called Joe White.
He had recognized Bradley and Don Luis, whom he had met on the coast, and we invited him to take coffee with us.
Joe White had come into this part of the country with Captain Sutter, whom he spoke very highly of, and of whose early efforts to form a settlement he gave us an account.
Their party was the very first of the white settlers in the wilderness.
They live some time in a camp formed of the tented wagons they had brought with them, until they could run up a few rough shanties, and some protecting outworks.
During the time they were constructing these, and indeed for some months afterwards, they were dreadfully harassed by the Indians, who made onslaughts on their cattle, carried away, killed, and eat both horses and oxen.
The Indians are by no means particular.
One night, after the party had been lulled into a sense of security by the apparent friendly disposition of the Indians, who occasionally came into their camp, and no watch was being kept, upwards of a score of horses and mules were driven off; the loss of which Sutter's people knew nothing of until they woke up in the morning, and found the ropes all cut.
They started off at once on the trail, and soon found that it led to an Indian rancheria, about eight miles up the Sacramento.
This rancheria was, they believed, the refuge of the "Ingin varmints," as Joe While styled them, from whose depredations they were constantly suffering.
Captain Sutter determined to take signal revenge.
They returned to the Fort that day, but next morning started off in a strong party, each man armed with his never-failing rifle and big bowie-knife, and taking with them a howitzer which the Captain had brought with him over the Rocky Mountains.
The Indians must, however, have had information by their scouts of the expedition; for, when the party reached the rancheria, they found it deserted--not even a solitary squaw left among the huddled-up collection of huts.
Determined not to be foiled, the party set to work to demolish the village.
The construction of the Indian houses rendered this an easy task, but, to complete it, fire was requisite.
No sooner had the smoke risen from the kindling wood, than their ears were saluted with a dismal yell from a little densely-wooded island a couple of hundred yards up the stream.
Starting out in all directions from the high grass and underwood, appeared a crowd of squaws with their children, who gave whoop after whoop, and, brandishing boughs of trees, imprecated curses upon the destroyers of their rancheria.
Captain Sutter and his party of trappers were somewhat startled at this proceeding, and the question immediately occurred to them as to where the men could be.
The party pushed their way homewards as fast, as possible; leaving the rancheria burning and the squaws and children still yelling and whooping on the island.
It was as they expected.
On coming within two miles of the Fort, they heard the crack upon crack of distant rifles.
Putting their horses to the gallop, they arrived just in time to see the Indians totally routed, and scampering away as fast as their horses would carry them into the woods.
After this double defeat, the tribes seem to have given up all idea of prosecuting a war against their new neighbours, and, gradually relinquishing their thievish habits, settled in the neighbourhood of the Fort--sometimes hunting and trapping for the pale faces, and at others labouring away at ditching and brick-making, being paid chiefly in articles of clothing and small allowances of pisco.
The trapper told us that Captain Sutter has now a tin coin in circulation, stamped with his name, and good for a certain amount of merchandize at the Fort.
After listening to a few more wonderful adventures of this sort, Bradley turned the conversation upon the country about Bear River.
The trapper said he knew it well, and had heard that there was plenty of gold there.
He asked him if he would undertake to guide us thither, and, after some bargaining, he consented.
The sum he was to have was sixty-five dollars and his food.
Considering the high rates of all things here, this was a low figure enough, but the old trapper candidly told us that he was sick and tired of paddling about in the water washing for gold, and that he would prefer a few days' jaunt in the wilderness.
The climate was much cooler further to the north, he informed us, and comparatively few miners had penetrated to the Bear Valley.
We had a long debate upon the matter, and ultimately it was determined to start the day after to-morrow (Wednesday).
_July 25th, Tuesday_.
--This day has been devoted to preparations for our journey.
Our stock of provisions, with the exception of breadstuffs, is quite exhausted.
We have had, therefore, to lay in a stock, but we found everything, of course, inordinately dear; so we have contented ourselves with buying some bacon, and dried beef, and coffee, resolving to trust to our rifles for further support, there being plenty of game in the neighbourhood of the Bear Valley.
By the advice of Joe White, we intend not only to load the pack-horses with a portion of our stock of provisions, but each man is to take a fortnight's rations for himself.
The pack-horses will carry about another fortnight's supply.
We should have preferred, if we could have managed it, to despatch the gold we have amassed since Bradley's mission to Captain Sutter, down to the Fort; but, after some deliberation, we have resolved not to risk its transit without an escort, and, accordingly, have agreed to load one horse, the most sure-footed of the lot, with the valuable burden, and to attach its trail ropes to the horses ridden by ourselves in turn.
This evening three men, hearing of our intended expedition, offered to join the party.
These were Edward Story, an American lawyer, who had been one of the inferior alcaldes during the Spanish regime at Monterey; John Dowling, first mate, and Samuel Bradshaw, the carpenter, of an American whaling ship which they had left at San Francisco.
The lawyer was an intelligent person, conversant with the language of several of the tribes--the mate seemed to have his wits about him, and the carpenter would obviously be a great acquisition, particularly as we were now about to plunge even beyond the furthest outposts of civilization, where, in all probability, we may have to secure ourselves against attacks from the Indians without the possibility of any help beyond that which we could render to each other.
We were rather pleased with their offer, and received them as an addition to our party.
All three had horses, although, as usual with seamen, the mate and carpenter were terribly awkward equestrians.
_Wednesday, July 26th_.
--This day we struck our camp before sunrise, and had the horses securely packed and all in motion in the early cool of the morning.
The march was a fatiguing one; the country appearing to be a succession of woody bottoms, or valleys and steep rocky ridges, which tried the metal of our loaded horses severely.
From the summit of one of the hills more elevated than the rest we obtained a distant view of the valley of the Sacramento.
Our general course was north north-west.
The trapper, who proved an able guide, varied the direction from time to time so as to lead us through the easiest paths, taking care to steer clear of the deep canones that split up the hills in every direction.
We dined at noon as usual, and that very well, on some hare soup made from a couple of hares which we had shot during the morning, and some dried beef.
The signs of deer were very frequent.
After mounting and descending a very precipitous and rocky ridge, we encamped near some waterfalls in a wide open valley.
The night was somewhat cold, and we enjoyed a blazing fire of pine sticks, which we cut from the dried trees in the vicinity.
_Friday, July 28th_.
--Yesterday morning dawned clear and rather coolish.
In the forenoon we crossed the north fork of the Americanos, which was here but a trifling stream.
The general character of the country was becoming more and more mountainous and difficult to traverse, and we found the labour of the journey sufficiently severe.
A
great number of water-courses crossed our path, but the channels were quite dry, the stones and shingle white and bleaching in the sun.
An unfortunate accident occurred during the afternoon's march to one of the pack-horses, which stumbled over a heap of rough stones in clambering up from the bed of a torrent, and broke its leg.
We had to shoot the poor animal to put it out of pain.
Its burden was equally distributed between its more fortunate fellows.
We encamped amongst rocks, and had a poor supper of flour cakes and bacon scraps.
During the night Don Luis was attacked with aguish symptoms.
I prescribed bark, which appeared to relieve him.
To-day our horses were quickly saddled and packed, and we started off in the faint grey of the morning.
It was chilly, but the sky was beautifully clear.
When the sun had fairly risen, however, we had no more cold to complain of.
The way was exceedingly difficult.
We toiled along precipitous ravines and gullies, and climbed up steep and rocky ridges, which cut and wounded the feet of the horses, and rendered our progress very slow.
The timber we passed was principally pine trees, with sharp pointed leaves and large cones, and occasionally we came upon a grove of evergreen oaks, more stunted in shape than was the case in the lower regions.
About mid-day we passed the source of the Rio de las Plumas, or Feather River, and after a most severe and in some respects forced march climbed the last rocky ridge which separated us from the Bear Valley.
The sun was near its setting as we pushed down the mountain slopes towards the river.
We found it a small stream flowing swiftly over a shingly bed to the westward, and encamped within hearing of its murmur, well pleased to have performed our toilsome journey.
CHAPTER XVI.
A rest A solitude No gold to be found An exploring party Good fortune Food and security More cradles A fortified shanty in preparation A dessert after dinner Dejection Thoughts about home No other gold-finders to be seen Mormon trail Salt Plain and the Great Salt Lake A weary day's journey without water Saline exhalations The inland sea and its desolate shores A terrible whirlpool The shanty finished The trapper's services retained The camp visited by an Indian tribe A friendly sign The pipe of peace A "trade" with the Indians declined Some depart and some remain Provisions run short Hunting expeditions Something about a bear.
_Sunday, July 30th_.
--We rested somewhat late upon Saturday morning to make up for the fatigues of the journey from Weber's Creek.
On surveying the country we found ourselves in a perfect solitude.
Not an Indian, far less a white man, was to be seen.
The fertile valley of the Bear River--with its luxuriant grass, in which nestled coveys of the Californian quail--seemed almost untrodden by human foot, and sloped in great beauty between the ridges of rocky hills and peaks of granite, with dark ravines and canones between, which hemmed it in.
Our first care was of course to try the capabilities of the country in the way of gold.
We therefore separated ourselves, and sought different points of the channel of the stream, and different chasms, which in the winter time conducted the mountain torrents into it.
To our great astonishment and disappointment, one by one we returned into the camp with the news of our non-success.
By the old trapper's advice, an exploring party was despatched to follow up the stream towards its head.
They travelled the distance of some ten or twelve miles, crossing some of the more important tributaries of the main river, and had the good fortune to strike upon a spot where a slight examination was sufficient to prove that the gold existed in great abundance in the sand and shingles, and imbedded in flakes amid the rocks.
To-day we have moved the camp to this spot; and, as we are now beyond the reach of aid from white men, and have begun to feel that we must be, for some time at least, a self-supporting party, our first thoughts are turned towards making arrangements for obtaining a supply of food, and for ensuring our security.
Bradley, Joe White, and José, are to be our hunters; Malcolm, Lacosse, and McPhail, are to set to work to-morrow to make a couple of cradles, the carpenter giving them an occasional helping hand, but occupying himself principally in superintending the construction of a large shanty, sufficient to accommodate the whole party, with a rough fortification around, composed of pine logs and palisades, pointed at the top, sufficient to enclose a space of ground into which the horses could be driven at night, out of the way of any outlying Indian who might be thievishly inclined.
We calculate that the construction of the shanty, with its appurtenances, will occupy at least a week--in all probability, much longer.
Malcolm, McPhail, and Lacosse, are to join us in our labours as soon as they have finished the cradles.
The hunters had good luck to-day, and came in with a couple of fat bucks.
The trapper had also snared a number of quails, so that our table was nobly furnished.
Our dinner, also, included a dessert of a fruit similar to apples in taste, but not larger than well-grown gooseberries.
These had been gathered and brought in by the trapper in the morning.
_Sunday, August 6th_.
--I have felt very low-spirited these last few days.
One's thoughts have turned towards home, and an indescribable sensation of melancholy has been weighing me down, which at last my companions have begun to take notice of.
This evening, just as the remainder of the party contemplated turning in for the night, I pulled out my note-book, and began writing beside the camp-fire.
"¿No puede Vm.
dormir?"
said Don Luis to me, as he moved away towards the tent.
"No, Senor," replied I. "Pienso a la veja Ingleterra; a mi Hermano y a mis amigos."
"Por ventura a una amiguita," observed Don Luis.
I laughed, and answering, "Es possible, Senor," went on writing.
We are now regularly settled on the Bear River, and have, as yet, seen no signs of human life round about us.
The reports, therefore, which we heard at Weber's Creek, of the gold-finders having penetrated into this valley, would appear to have been without foundation.
We have observed a fresh-made trail, which the old trapper seems to consider passes in the direction of the Truckee Lake; and we have noticed the remains of several camp-fires at different parts of the valley.
In all probability this trail has been made by the Mormon emigrants, who are reported to have gone on a gold-hunting expedition across the salt desert to the shores of the Great Salt Lake, a distance of seven or eight hundred miles.
The old trapper had some wonderful stories to tell about the dangers of the journey across the Salt Plain.
How that a man has to travel, from the first faint break of grey light in the morning, as hard as his horse will carry him, over a desert of white salt--which crunches and crumbles beneath his horse's tread at every step he takes--until the sun has gone down behind the tall peaks of the distant Sierra Nevada.
No water but of the most brackish kind can be procured to refresh either horse or rider through the whole of this weary route, while their lips are parched with thirst, and their eyes and nostrils become choked from the effects of the saline exhalations rising up on all sides from the desert over which they are passing.
And as for the Great Salt Lake, the desolate shores of this inland sea have been, for the most part, carefully avoided by both Indians and trappers, and no living being has yet been found daring enough to venture far on the bosom of its dark turbid waters; for a belief exists that a terrible whirlpool agitates their surface, ready to swallow up everything that may venture within the bounds of its dangerous influence.
Our cradles were finished on Monday, and the shanty on Saturday afternoon.
It includes a sort of outhouse for cooking, and the rude palisades around are quite sufficient protection for the horses against any attempts the Indians are likely to make to drive them off.
As soon as our building labours were over yesterday, we set to work digging and washing, and were very successful.
The country about here is of course much more rugged than in the lower diggings.
Grass is plentiful in the valley, but the rocky heights are covered with a stinted vegetation, offering no food to our horses.
The soil, mineralogically considered, does not seem to vary materially from that in the neighbourhood of Weber's Creek.
If anything, it is more impregnated with gold.
On Friday, Don Luis discovered a large rough lump in a canone about a mile from the shanty; and the next evening a similar lump, though rather smaller, was picked up by Bradley in one of his hunting excursions.
_August 8th_.
--We have engaged the services of our friend the trapper at the rate of fifteen dollars a-week, with an allowance of whisky twice a-day.
He will hunt for us, but will have nothing to do with gold digging and washing.
He has a tolerable contempt for dollars, or else he would have demanded higher wages.
A man who has spent nearly all his life in the wilderness, who has known no wants but such as his rifle could quickly supply, may, however, well look with contempt on the "root of all evil."
If he were hungry, a shot at some panting elk or bellowing buffalo would stock him with food for weeks to come.
If he were athirst, the clear water of some sparkling rivulet would yield him all that he would require.
The hide of the bear or of the buffalo would serve to clothe him and to shelter him from the sharp night frosts;
while a score of beaver skins would purchase him ammunition more than sufficient to last him all the year round.
What, then, should he want with gold?
Yesterday, while we were at dinner, we were surprised by seeing a party of Indians approaching the camp from the direction of Truckee Lake.
They appeared not to have any hostile intentions, so we quietly awaited their approach.
The foremost chief held before him a long stick, with a bunch of white feathers dangling at the end.
Story explained to us that this was a friendly sign, and said we had nothing to fear from the party.
As they approached nearer towards us, they commenced dancing and singing, and we could soon perceive that very few among them were armed, and that altogether their appearance was anything but warlike and imposing.
Story went out to meet them, and shook hands with the few foremost chiefs.
When they reached the shanty, before the door of which we were seated, the chiefs gathered on the right-hand side of us, and squatted themselves down upon the ground, when the pipe of peace was immediately produced by a veteran chief, and handed round.
I took a few whiffs with the rest, and then we learnt from our visiters that they were anxious to engage in a trade.
All that they had, however, were some few esculent roots and several bags of pine-nuts.
These last they roast and eat, but the taste is far from pleasant.
In exchange for them, they wanted some charges of powder and ball.
Three of them, I noticed, possessed old Spanish muskets, of which they seemed particularly proud;
they held them in the usual cautious Indian style, with the butt-end clutched in the right hand, and the barrel resting on the left arm.
A
few of the others had bows and arrows slung across their backs.
We pleaded shortness of ammunition as our excuse for declining the trade.
Our provisions being run low made it impossible for us to offer them anything to eat, so we gave them a few blankets, which we could well spare, by way of keeping ourselves in their good graces; as, according to Story, they would have considered it a great affront if we had neglected to make them any presents.
The Indians remained and encamped outside our fort; last night and this morning the greater part took their departure.
The guard last night had orders to keep a sharp look-out, as we thought that our friends, even though they had no hostile intentions towards us, might still take a strong liking to some of our horses; but nothing of a suspicious character occurred.
Five young men of the tribe also have stopt behind, who wish to continue with us and work for us, but the low state of our commissarial renders it desirable not to accept their offer, unless our hunters return to-day with a good stock of provisions.
_August 13th_.
Our hunters have been very successful these last few days.
We have a large stock of elk meat, which we intend drying after the Indian fashion.
On Friday, while Don Luis and the trapper were out together, they were surprised by the sight of a huge bear right before them, slowly walking up towards them.
As soon as he arrived within about a hundred paces he squatted down upon his haunches for a few moments; but, as they got nearer to him, and just as they were preparing to give him a greeting in the shape of a couple of balls through his head, he rose up and scampered off.
They fired, but without success, and the brute plunged into a dense thicket; after which they saw nothing more of him.
Our Indians, after stopping with us a couple of days, during which period we compelled them to encamp at night-time outside the fort, took their departure early on Friday morning, or else during the night of Thursday, unperceived by our sentinels.
They, however, took nothing with them belonging to our party, except a couple of blankets we had lent to the two principal men.
