Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines — 16-The Philippines, Ch.8 Inspecting with the Secretary of War pt 1
INSPECTING WITH THE SECRETARY OF WAR
August thirteenth is a holiday in the Philippine Islands, for it is "Occupation Day," the anniversary of the fall of Manila and its occupation by the American army.
The special event is a "camp fire" in the evening at the theater, when the Philippine war veterans gather together and have addresses and refreshments.
After a dinner with Tom Anderson at the Army and Navy Club, with its picturesque quarters in an old palace, intramuros, we attended this performance, sitting in the Governor's box and listening to the happy self-laudation of the "veterans," who all wore the blue shirt and khaki of war times.
It was toward midnight when we finally left and went out to our vessel, for we were off for a trip among the southern islands on the cable steamer _Rizal_.
We sailed by the light of a full moon, and for a while had a merry bobbery of it outside, after passing Corregidor.
Soon, though, we turned a point and had the monsoon following.
In the morning we woke to find ourselves steaming past the fine scenery of southern Luzon, with the volcano of Taal in the distance.
Several times during the Spanish occupation this volcano dealt death and destruction, and as late as 1911 it claimed many victims.
Our first landing place was at Kotta, on Luzon, where we started ashore in a small launch.
It was a beautiful river of palms, but our boat got stuck in the mud and we were delayed.
We finally reached the shore and were put into automobiles.
Then it was that I began to feel as if I had joined a circus parade.
Escorted by bands and soldiers, our motors moved slowly along the streets.
Everywhere people lined the way, while the windows of the houses fairly dripped with heads.
We passed many little villages that looked prosperous, and processions of carts, showing that the people were active and busy.
The road ran over picturesque bridges, for part of it was an old Spanish trail rejuvenated.
At all the villages they had made preparations to receive the Secretary, bands were out, the children stood by the roadside and waved, and the women stood in rows to greet us.
The municipal buildings were decorated, the piazzas hung with festoons and lanterns.
They all wanted to give us _comida_ and let off speeches, but it was impossible to live through such hospitalities, so we only halted at each place a few minutes to shake hands.
The stop for the night was Lucena, the home of Mr. Quezon, Philippine Commissioner to the United States Congress.
He traveled with us, and we found him very attractive.
The general opinion was that Quezon, Legarda, and Osmeña were "playing to the gallery" for political capital, but at the same time they were supporting our administration.
It is a good deal like some of our friends in Congress, who make speeches along lines that they know are absolutely untenable.
After climbing into a bandstand, where we stood surrounded by people peering up at us, flowery speeches began, demanding independence.
They were the first of the kind we had heard.
The Filipinos are good speakers and keen politicians.
Among other remarks, an orator said: "Many things occur to my mind, each of which is important, but among them there is one which constitutes a fundamental question for the Filipinos and the Americans.
It is a question that interests equally the people of the United States and the people of the Philippine Islands.
It is a question of life or death for our people, and it is a question also of justice, for the people of the United States.
The fundamental question is evidently, gentlemen, the question of a political finality of my country....
"We are very grateful for your visit, Mr. Secretary, and we hope that the joy that we felt on your arrival may not be clouded, that it may not be tempered, but rather that it shall be heightened, by seeing in you a true interpretation of the desires of the Philippine people, hoping that on your return to the United States after your visit to the Philippine Islands, you will tell the truth as regards the aspirations of the Philippine people."
In answering, the Secretary talked about the different subjects of interest, such as the agricultural bank, land titles, etc. He continued: "It is very gratifying to me, coming from America, and representing the Government in the position in which I stand, to hear such testimonials as you have given in regard to the men that America has sent to assist you in advancing your interests....
America has been careful to send men in whom confidence can be reposed according to their previous character;
and I want to say to you further, that America has given you here just as good government as she has given to her people at home.
[22] In all established governments fair and just criticism is welcome and I shall not therefore bear any spirit that would be resentful of any just criticism.
"I shall be very glad while I am here to meet those who have the real welfare of the Islands at heart and the development of this country.
I
have many things to do and the time is comparatively short, but I shall endeavour so to conduct affairs as to be able to give audience to all law-abiding people who may desire to make any representations to me.
I
shall be at convenient periods here where I shall be accessible, and any communications which are addressed to me personally will receive proper consideration.
Now that states in a general way the object of my visit and the disposition that I propose to make of my time while here.
General Edwards, who is with me, as you know, is the Chief of the Insular Bureau.
Certainly he, more than any other man in America, understands conditions in the Philippines, and his whole time, thought and mind are concentrated upon the problems connected with your welfare, and he is working all the time to advance your interests.
His familiarity with conditions from the time of America's occupation, the establishment of civil government, the settling of the various commercial questions that have arisen from time to time, make him the most effective champion for the Philippine interests in America, and he has not hesitated in Congress whenever your interests are at stake, to stand up and contend for your interests with vehemence that ought to make him eligible to all option as a Philippine citizen....
"You have there a brilliant representative (Mr. Quezon), who is capable of presenting your views and aspirations, and of enforcing your wishes with the most cogent arguments of which your cause is susceptible....
"Now as to immediate independence: we Americans understand by immediate, right away--to-day.
Do you want us to get up and leave you now--to depart from your country?
You would find yourselves surrounded by graver problems than have hitherto confronted you, if we should do so.
I don't positively assert, but I suggest that you yourselves pause, and think whether you might not be reaching forth and grasping a fruit which, like the dead sea fruit, would turn to ashes upon your lips."
[23] It was at Lucena that my husband and I went to Captain and Mrs. S.'
s house for the night.
We sat on the piazza by moonlight, among beautiful orchids, listening to the band playing in the distance, and gossiping.
I
was interested in the servant problem, and Mrs. S.
had much to tell me that was new.
"Our native servants would much rather have a pleasant 'thank you' than a tip," she said; "if a tip is offered, the chances are that it will be refused, for the boys feel that they would do wrong to accept it.
They are very keen, though, about their _aguinaldos_--presents--at Christmas.
Every native who has done a hand's turn for me during the year will turn up Christmas Day to wish me a _feliz Pasquas_, and I am expected to give him a present.
My whole day is for my servants and their children, who seem to multiply at that time.
When I asked my _cochero_, 'Lucio, how many _niños_ have you?'
he answered, 'Eleven, señora.'
'But how many under fourteen, Lucio?'
'Eleven, señora!'
He wanted all the presents that he could get," she laughed.
"But if they don't take tips, do they get good wages?"
I asked.
"Not according to American ideas.
A Filipino boy will work for small pay, and stay a long time, in a cheerful home atmosphere.
They are good servants, too," she continued, "if you take the trouble to train them.
I
trained a green boy to be a good cook by taking an American cook book and translating it into Spanish.
They have a great reverence for books, and that boy thought he was very scientific.
I've had him many years.
We loaned him money to build his hut near us.
He was a year paying it off, but he paid off every cent.
Now he has four children for Christmas gifts.
When I went away on a visit, he asked me to bring him a gold watch from America.
So many years with us gave him that privilege.
As we were gone some time I think he feared we might not return, so he wrote us a letter."
Seeing my interest, she got the letter and read it to me: "My Dear Sir Capt. : "In accompany the great respect to you would express at the bottom.
It is a long time since our separation and I'm hardly to forget you because I have had recognized you as a best master of maine.
So I remit best regard to you and Mrs. and how you were getting along both, and if you wish to known my condition, why, I'm well as ever.
"Sir Capt. If you will need me to cook for Mrs. why I'll be with you as soon as I can find some money.
"Please Sir Capt. "Will you answer this letter for me?
"Very respectfully "Yours, PEDRO."
"On returning from the United States I took Pedro back," Mrs. S.
went on, "but I found I needed extra house boys.
The first who presented himself was Antonio, aged seventeen.
He was a very serious, hard-working boy, whose only other service had been a year on an inter-island merchant ship.
I took him at once, for servants from boats are usually well trained.
He turned out well, and in a few months asked if he could send for his little brother to be second boy to help him.
I said he could, so in due time Crispin smilingly presented himself.
No questions passed as to salary or work.
He was installed on any terms that suited me.
A few weeks later, Antonio asked if he could bring his cousin in just to learn the work, so that he could find a place.
I consented, and in time came Sacarius, gentle and self-effacing, and apparently intent on learning, and always handy and useful.
Again a favour was asked, this time that the father of Antonio might come as a visitor for a three weeks' stay.
He was very old, would not eat in my house, only sleep in the servants' room, so again I consented.
Father must have already been on his way, permission taken for granted, for his arrival was almost simultaneous.
I found him sitting in my kitchen in very new and very clean white clothes, the saintliest old tao, with no teeth, white hair, and a perpetual smile.
He rose and bowed low to me, but he couldn't speak Spanish or English, so called his son to him to salute me for him formally.
I returned it and made him welcome to my house.
He bade them tell me he had journeyed far to tell me of his gratitude for my goodness to his family and that he had such _confienza_ in me that he had instructed his sons never to leave me.
The old fellow enjoyed himself thoroughly, and spent so much of his son's money that Antonio shipped him home in a week."
"Are they spoiled by living with Americans?"
"Yes, but it shows most in their clothes.
Antonio dresses almost as well as his master," laughed Mrs. S.
"But he does not attempt to work in his best clothes, wearing the regulation _muchacho_ costume without objection, even though some of the army officers' muchachos are allowed to dress like fashion plates, and clatter round the polished floors in their russet shoes.
A muchacho will spend his whole month's pay for a single pair of American russet shoes.
They love russet, and the shoe stores flourish in consequence."
"How about their amusements?"
I inquired.
"Whenever they can get off they go to baseball games and the movies.
The little girls wear American-made store dresses now, and great bunches of ribbon in their hair, white shoes, and silk stockings.
Some families who in the early days had hardly a rag on their backs now own motors.
I
don't believe you could force independence on them!
The señoritas trip home from normal school with their high-heeled American pumps, and paint enough on their faces to qualify for Broadway.
The poor children have to swelter in knitted socks, knitted hoods, and knitted sweaters, just because they come from America.
Filipino children are wonderful, though--they never cry unless they are ill.
They are allowed absurd liberty, but they don't seem to get spoiled.
The Filipina women love white children intensely; the fair skins seem to charm them, and they really can't resist kissing a blond child."
We certainly enjoyed our stay at Lucena.
Mrs. S.'
s house was so clean and homelike, with its pretty dining room and its broad veranda, and the big shower bath which felt so refreshing.
We went to sleep that night watching the palm leaves waving in the moonlight.
In the early morning we all got into automobiles again and ran over fine roads built since the American occupation.
We left the China Sea and crossed the island to the Pacific, climbing a wonderful tropical mountain, where, by the way, we nearly backed off a precipice because our brakes refused to work, and we frightened a horse as we whizzed on to Antimonan.
The churches here had towers something like Chinese pagodas, and the big lamps inside were covered with Mexican silver.
All these island towns have a presidente and a board of governors, called _consejales_, and each province has a governor.
Manila hemp is one of the principal products of this prosperous province, and it is chiefly used to make rope.
The plant from which this hemp is made looks very much like a banana plant.
The stalk is stripped and only the tough fibers are used.
They employ the cocoanut a good deal to make oil, which is obtained from the dried meat, called copra.
They had a procession of their products here at Antimonan, which was very interesting.
The hemp and cigar importations were first carried on by Salem captains in the fifties.
The great American shipping firm in those days was Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company.
The Philippines were out of the line of travel, however, and few people went there except for trade.
In fact, as far as I know, only one book was written by an American about the islands before the American occupation.
On the _Rizal_ next morning, when I looked out of my porthole at dawn, it seemed to me as if I were gazing at an exquisite Turner painting.
Mount Mayon[24] was standing there majestically, superb in its cloak of silver mist, which changed to fiery red.
It is the most beautiful mountain in the world, more perfect in outline than Fuji.
Mrs. Dickinson was so inspired by its beauty that she wrote a poem, a stanza of which I give: "Mount Mayon, in lonely grandeur, Rises from a sea of flame, Type of bold, aggressive manhood, Lifting high a famous name 'Bove the conflict of endeavour Ranging round its earthly base, Where heartache and failure ever Stand hand-clasped face to face."
[Illustration: LANDING AT TOBACO.
] Our landing at Tobaco was made in the most novel way.
As the water was shallow and the _Rizal_ could not get into the dock, three carabaos hitched to a wagon waded out till only their noses could be seen; we stepped on to the two-wheeled cart and sat in state on chairs while we wiggle-waggled through the water to the shore.
There we went to the town hall and had a banquet with many brown men and a few little brown women.
The governor of the province spoke, and General Bandholtz responded in Spanish for the Secretary, who had gone ahead to close a government coal mine that was not proving successful.
After the banquet we had an enchanting automobile ride, through quaint villages at the foot of the great mountain to Albay, where a review of the scouts was held by the Secretary in the setting sun.
