Spell of the Hawaiian Islands and the Philippines — 20-The Philippines, Ch.10 Journey's End

JOURNEY'S END

The little coral island of Bancoran lies in the middle of the Sulu Sea, quite outside the usual routes of travel.

It is inhabited only by birds, and people seldom or never go there.

But we wanted to obtain, if we could, some new species of gulls or terns for the Bureau of Science at Manila, and also to enjoy the mysterious sea gardens which are found among the southern reefs.

Just after tiffin the island was sighted, lying quite alone by itself in milky green water.

The ship stopped and launches were dropped overboard, and a glass-bottomed boat which had been brought along for our use.

The afternoon was ideal--the sky blue and fleeced with snowy clouds piled high, while the intense sun shining on the water flashed back a hundred shades of blue and green and mauve.

On one side of the island, which floated like an emerald among sapphires, outstanding rocks chafed the seas into foaming surf, while on the other a long, narrow beach lay shimmering, pale yellow in the sunlight.

The island itself was covered with a thick jungle of trees, which were dotted with thousands of resting birds.

As we drew nearer they saw us and were afraid, rising and soaring and circling in the clear, pure air, and crying out at us.

Flock after flock of sea fowl flew wonderingly over our small craft, their white breasts tinted green with the light reflected from the water.

It was like a Robinson Crusoe island, lost out there in the lonely sea.

But there were shells of huge turtles, and bones of birds, which suggested that sometime a feast must have been held there, so it was not wholly undiscovered and unexplored.

Among the great roots of the trees the birds had built their nests from leaves.

The eggs in some of them were white and about the size of hens' eggs.

Several varieties of boobies and terns were found, some brown with green-blue eyes, others ivory-white.

A few specimens were shot, and one or two were taken back alive to the _Rizal_ for the museum.

Previous to this visit the ornithologists had never known to what islands the boobies and frigate birds came to nest, although the scientists had long been searching for the place, so the expedition was well worth while.

But the sea gardens interested me more than the birds or even the island.

If Alice could have had her choice in entering Wonderland, she would surely have selected a doorway leading through a glass-bottomed boat, instead of dropping down a rabbit's hole.

Beneath the water, which was crystal clear, we could see a strange country with new flowers and peculiar creatures.

Where it was sandy and shallow we saw below us fields of green sea grass, on which the fairies must surely have used lawn-mowers, it was so neatly kept.

Interspersed among the fields were beds of feathery, lace-like vegetation unnamed in the language of our party.

Passing one expanse after another of this submarine pasturage, we saw depressions in the coral, where tiny fishes played or unknown water creatures had established a little world for themselves and were living in its narrow confines quite unconscious of what went on in the surrounding vastness.

Drifting on into deeper water, we came to a ghost-like gray world of curls and feathers, trembling with life, a forest of pale trees and swaying brown ones, of high hills and dark valleys, made by coral reefs.

Pretty rock gardens came into view, where there were cabbages with blue edges, sea anemones and purple fans, a huge toadstool, a giant fungus, and a cactus plant--at least, that is what they looked like to us.

There were rainbow shells, too, half hidden, and great blue starfish clinging to the rocks.

In and out among the sponges and the brown coral branches, which were so much like antlers, swam curious fishes.

Such gorgeous colours--so vivid and in such brilliant combinations!

Some were big green fellows, with needle noses; others were electric blue and silver;

there were black and yellow ones, too, and striped fishes that looked like sly prisoners dodging their keepers.

[27] [Illustration: ONE DAY'S CATCH OF FISH.

] We passed the greater part of the afternoon marooned on this far-away island, some of us going bathing off the shallow, sandy beaches in the clear water.

As evening came on we regretfully left the fairy island of Bancoran, and sailed away by the rising moon.

The Penal Colony on Palawan, which I have described in another chapter, was our next point of interest.

We left there behind schedule and met a stronger current than we had expected, sweeping down the coast of Panay, so that it was no wonder that we were late in approaching Iloilo.

This was especially unfortunate, for very generous preparations had been made there for the Secretary's reception and an interesting series of events arranged, all of which was upset by the delay.

It was sunset when we finally sighted the town.

As we cruised up the steeply palisaded coast, with the low-lying foreground of Panay on the other side, backed by its fine ranges of mountains, the effects were most beautiful.

The old Spanish fort on its point looked mysterious in the afterglow, and the skies were magnificently alight.

A fleet of much beflagged launches and steamers came out to meet the Secretary, whistling a welcome, and turning, escorted the _Rizal_.

Next to Manila, Iloilo is the most important port in the Islands, and has a better climate than its rival.

The people here are supposed to be wealthier and more aristocratic than elsewhere.

The Payne bill, which had been in operation only a short time, had brought such a return of prosperity to the land, and especially to the planters of this fertile province, that they were all very enthusiastic about Americans, and did all they could to express their gratitude.

We were invited for dinner at half after seven, but it was an hour later before we sat down to the long table in the large and rather empty room, with its handsome Venetian mirrors at either end, and its sliding shutters wide open to the night.

There were no ladies present except those of our party.

We could never tell how things would be arranged,--sometimes there would be Filipina ladies, and sometimes there would not; sometimes the ladies would all be placed together at one side of the table, and again they would be seated next to the men.

While waiting for dinner to be announced, we sat about in an airy room, with half-dressed servants peeping in at us, and a phonograph playing Caruso records.

[Illustration: VIEW IN ILOILO, ILOILO, SHOWING HIGH SCHOOL GROUNDS.

] After dinner we had a long drive out through the town, which seemed quite business-like and prosperous.

They had rebuilt some of the fine, large, wide-open houses, most of which had been destroyed by the insurrectos.

(On the nearby island of Negros, we were told, there were many fine _haciendas_ with great houses full of carved work which I was sorry not to see.

) Passing through suburbs of nipa houses standing up on their stilts in the moonlight, we came to a plaza gaily illuminated, and to our destination, a mansion approached by a triumphal arch.

In the best houses the living rooms are on the second floor, just as in the poorer ones they are raised above the ground on stilts.

So here we went upstairs to a great room hung with festoons of flags, where the little women in their bright and varied dresses passing and repassing made a gay scene.

It was here, indeed, that we saw some of the prettiest and best dressed women whom we met on our trip.

Most of the following day was spent cruising along the coast of Panay, passing between its fine outlying islands, which reminded us of the Inland Sea of Japan.

In the afternoon we came to the entrance of the river on which Capiz is located.

The Secretary crossed overland on the first train to run on the new railway, in order to drive in the silver spikes that completed the line.

No dinners had been planned there for those of us who had come by ship, so we did not start up river until half after eight.

Capiz is only four miles from the mouth, but they were the longest miles we had ever experienced, for by some mistake the pilot did not arrive, so we went in a _Rizal_ launch without one.

We just struggled along as well as we could in the dark till the moon came up, which only mystified us the more with its deceptive shadows.

Half a dozen times we ran deep into mud banks, and the sailormen were forced to jump overboard and shove us off.

They did not appear to enjoy doing this, and no wonder, for it was a crocodile river.

Swarms of fireflies, which gathered on favourite trees, made a very Christmas-like effect with their throbbing lights.

They were lovely, too, in the dark shore shadows, and made sparkling reflections in the black river stream.

Watching them we could almost forget our troubles.

[Illustration: THE OLD AUGUSTINIAN CHURCH, MANILA.

] Finally, after much winding round and backing off, we turned a bend and saw a line of little twinkling lights strung along the shore and on floating barges, giving quite a Venetian effect and showing us the town by their reflection.

Landing, we walked across the grassy square to the provincial building, with its open courtyards, where there was to be a ball.

We danced a rigodon as usual, and stopped late with the Governor General, who liked to show his interest in these functions, of which the Filipinos think so much.

There were three bands, which vied with each other for applause.

Next morning we got away early on our last leg for Manila and the end of our never-to-be-forgotten journey in the Land of Pine and Palm--that far-away, unfamiliar country where your head gets full of strange thoughts, your body of queer feelings, and your heart has great longings.

We crowded everything we could into those few last days in Manila, for we were loath to think of leaving anything undone.

Besides packing and shopping, there were teas and dinners, and the army and navy reception.

This was lovely, for it was held in the courtyard filled with trees which were hung with dim lanterns.

The good looking officers with their white duck uniforms and brass buttons added to the attractiveness of the scene.

The men of our party were even busier than we, for they had several banquets to which we were not invited.

In my husband's journal I find the chronicle of a typical day.

After describing the events of a busy morning, he says: "In the afternoon, there was a reception to meet the constabulary, at four; the opening of the new hospital, a most complete and wonderful one, at half after four; the laying of the corner stone at five for the new hotel, which is a very ambitious project and will make all the difference in the world as far as touring in the Philippines is concerned; in the evening, a dinner, and after that a reception, and a dance."

Manila seemed more picturesque, and to have even more atmosphere, as I came to know it better.

The old walls and churches and plazas and corners and quarters; the Pasig with its cascos and bancas plying about;

the narrow streets winding through the suburbs, with old moss-covered walls, and peeps of tangled gardens within, and balustraded terraces, and the bowers of the pink blossoming "chain of love."

It is indeed well-named the Pearl of the Orient.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

ATKINSON, F.

W.

: The Philippine Islands ALEXANDER, MARY C.

: The Story of Hawaii ALEXANDER, W.

D.

: Brief History of the Hawaiian People AMERICAN GIRL, AN: Seven Weeks in Hawaii BANCROFT, HUBERT H.

: The New Pacific BRIGGS, CHARLES W.

: Progressive Philippines BLAIR, EMMA H.

: The Philippine Islands BARRON, DAVID: History of the Philippines BISHOP, ISABELLA L.

: The Hawaiian Archipelago BLACKMAN, WILLIAM F.

: The Making of Hawaii COAN, TITUS: Life in Hawaii COAN, T.

M.

: Climate of Hawaii ---- Hawaiian Ethnography CASTLE, WILLIAM R.

, JR.

: Hawaii Past and Present CHAMBERS, H.

E.

: Constitutional History of Hawaii CROW, CARL: America and the Philippines CHAMBERLIN, FREDERICK: The Philippine Problem DAUNCEY, MRS.

CAMPBELL: The Philippines DEVENS, JOHN B.

: An Observer in the Philippines DAY, MRS.

E.

F.

: Princess of Manoa EMERSON, N.

B.

: Unwritten Literature of Hawaii FEE, MARY H.

: A Woman's Impressions of the Philippines FOREMAN, J.

: The Philippine Islands FORNANDER, ABRAHAM: The Polynesian Race HAWAIIAN ANNUAL for 1915 HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, Report of Commission of Agriculture and Forestry HAWAII, a Primer--answers to queries HITCHCOCK, C.

H.

: Hawaii and its Volcanoes JERNEGAN, PRESCOTT F.

: A Short History of the Philippines JORDAN AND EDERMANN: Aquatic Resources of Hawaii LIBRARY OF CONGRESS: List of books on Hawaii LINDSEY, FORBES: The Philippines LE ROY, JAMES A.

: Philippine Life in Town and Country ---- Americans in the Philippines LAWRENCE, MARY S.

: Old Time Hawaiians and their Wok LYMAN, H.

M.

: Hawaiian Yesterdays MOSES, MRS.

M. E.

B.

: Unofficial Letters of an Official's Wife MAUS, L.

M.

: An Army Officer on Leave in Japan MUSICK, JOHN R.

: Hawaii: our New Possession MATHER, HELEN: One Summer in Hawaii ROBINSON, ALBERT G.

: The War and the People STODDARD, C.

W.

: South-sea Idyls SAWYER, FREDERICK H.

: The Inhabitants of the Philippines STEVENS, J.

E.

: Yesterdays in the Philippines TAFT, MRS.

WILLIAM H.

: Recollections of Full Years WESTERVELT, W.

E.

: Legends of Old Honolulu WORCESTER, DEAN C.

: The Philippines, Past and Present WILLIAMS, D.

R.

: The Odyssey of the Philippine Commission YOUNG, LUCIEN: The Real Hawaii INDEX

A

Agriculture and Forestry, Bureau of, 99 Aguinaldo, Emilio, 159, 173-175, 181-183, 188-193, 195-196, 199, 204 Aldecoa and Company, 265 Alden, C. S.

(quoted), 71 Alexander Young Hotel, 20 Amburayan, 270 Anderson, General Thomas, 72, 145, 180, 187, 192 Captain Tom, 145, 296 Andrews, Louis, 62 Antipolo, 320 Apayao, 270 Archbishop of Manila, 166 Armstrong, Fort, 25 General, 62 Army and Navy Club, 146, 296 Assembly, 125, 138, 209, 215-217, 236 Asturia, Governor, 351 Atimonan, 307, 308 Augustinian Church, 129 B

Babuyan Islands, the, 261 Baginda, Raja, 326 Bagobos, the, 257, 339, 345, 348 Baguio, 213, 246-249, 251, 253, 272 Bahr, Abu, 326 Balangiga, 317 Balintan Channel, 268 Bancoran, 353, 357 Bandholtz, General, 309 Barry, Lieutenant, 340 Bashee Rocks, 261, 262 Batan (islands), 261, 262, 264, 269 Bates, General, 198 Bauang, 247 Bautilan, 328 Bay, Lake of, 131 Beacom, Major, 335 Beardsley, Admiral and Mrs. , 16 Benguet, 270 Road, 247, 249 Berger, Captain, 14, 74 Biacnabato, 174 Treaty of, 175 Bilibid Prison, 237-239, 241, 242, 313 Bill of Rights, 58 Bingham, Hiram, 10 Bishop, Bernice Pauahi, 11, 72 Hon. Charles R. , 12 Museum, 11 Black Crook, 249 Blayney, Professor Thomas Lindsey (quoted), 220 Boca Chica, 123 Boca Grande, 178 Bohol, 318 Boki, Chief, 10 Bolinao Light, 274 Bonifacio, Andres, 171, 174 Bontoc, 229, 236, 270, 287-289 Book, Captain, 16 Botel Tobago, 262 Brent, Bishop, 132 Brigham, Professor, 11 _Britannia_, the, 51 Bryan, William Jennings, 199, 206-207 Bud Dajo, 350 Buencamino, 183 C

Cagayan, 131 Calkins, Mr. , 309 Capiz, 360 Carter, General W. H.

, 26 Charles L. , 78 George R. , 78, 79 Mr. George, 5 Castle, Mr. , 4, 14, 112 Mrs. , 14 _Castilla_, the, 179 Catbalogan, 317 Cavite, 138, 166, 173, 179, 181, 182, 204 Cebu, 150, 152, 318, 320, 322 Celebes Sea, 340 Cervantes, 283, 284 Charcca, the, 317 _Charleston_, the, 269 Chinese, the (in the Philippines), 159 Chino Charlie, 352 Cleghorn, Governor, 15 Cleveland, President, 77 College of Medicine and Surgery, 141 Commission, the (first), 207 Commission, the second (or Taft), 207, 209-211, 215, 216, 219 Constabulary Band, 125, 137 Cook, Captain (James), 35, 37, 48, 49, 114, 115, 150 Corregidor, 123, 138, 178, 296 Cotobato (river), 340 town, 341 Cotton, Captain, 16 Cromer, Lord, 221 _Crook_, the, 273, 274 Culion, 232-235 D

Dalupiri, 265 Damien, Father, 72 Dampier, William, 152, 262, 327 Darrach, Marshall, 139 Data, Mount, 285 Daughters of Hawaii, the, 22 Davis, Isaac, 50 DeRussy, Fort, 25 Dewey, Admiral, 177-181, 184, 186, 192 (quoted), 190 _Dewey_, the (dock), 273 Diamond Head, 4, 19, 25 Dickinson, Mr. (Secretary of War), 20, 125, 126, 127, 131, 136, 139, 145, 146, 232, 252, 272, 273, 277, 278, 279, 295, 299, 325, 337, 341 Mrs. , 125, 127, 136, 139, 140, 145, 251, 252, 308, 336 Din, Alimund, 328 Ditch Trail, 107 Dole, Rev. Daniel, 8 Sanford B. , 8, 9, 16, 77-79 Dominis, John C. , 76 Doyle, Sergeant, 278 Drake, Sir Francis, 151 Duvall, General, 146, 273 Mrs. , 146 E

Early, 275 Education, Bureau of, 248 Edwards, General, 131, 272, 300 El Chico de Cagayan River, 287 El Fraile, 178 Emerson (quoted), 42 Emma, Queen, 65, 66 Escolta, the, 130 Ethnology, Bureau of, 141 F

"Father Alexander," 106 "Filipino Republic," the, 190 Filipinos, 124, 136, 137, 171, 183, 185-189, 193, 195-196, 201, 215, 219, 222, 241, 245, 298, 342 Finch, Captain, 3 Forbes, Governor General Cameron, 125, 127, 131, 139, 212-215, 221, 239, 243, 248, 272, 276, 277, 283, 317, 361 Fornander, A. (quoted), 42 Frear, Judge Walter F. , 80 French Frigatis Shoal, 66 Funston (General), 25, 199 Furness, Dr. , 4 G

Gallman, 275, 280 Gilbert, Vice-Governor, 254 Gimbungen (dato), 342 Government Dormitory for Girls, 140 Government Laboratories, Bureau of, 141 Green Lake, 112 Gridley, Captain, 3, 179 Guam, 72, 119, 199, 262 H

Halawa, 63 Haleakala, 107 Halemaumau, 60, 110 Hanalei River, 115 Harrison, Governor General, 212, 213, 219 Hauula, 103 Hawaii (island of), 8, 39, 82 Republic of, 78 Hawaiian Commercial Sugar Company, 81 Hawaiians (ethnology of), 29 Heiberg, Major, 343 Heiser, Dr. , 221, 230-232, 234-236, 323 Hilgard, Captain, 251 Hilo, 60, 62, 91, 102, 108, 110, 112 Hina, 35 Hoapili, 62 Honaunau, 113 Honolulu, 4, 5, 6, 9, 10, 21, 25, 65, 67, 72, 102, 103, 104, 181 Hualalai, 113 I

Iao Valley, 107 Ide, H. C.

, 208 Ifugao, 270 Ifugaos, the, 271, 277, 280-283, 289, 293 Igorots, the, 251, 253, 255, 277, 286, 288-290, 294, 337 Ilocanos, the, 275 Iloilo, 357-358 Ilongots, the, 255, 258-259 Immigration, Bureau of, 100 Inter-Island Navigation Company, 104 boats, 112 Internal Revenue, Bureau of, 221 Iraya, Mt. , 269 Irwin, Mr. , 4 Isabella II, Queen, 164 Isola Grande, 273, 274 Itbayat Island, 265 Iwahig River, 240 Iyeyasu, Shogun, 156 J

Japanese-American Citizens' Association, 116 Japanese (women laborers), 83-85 as Hawaiians, 116-118 Jesuits, the, 164, 165, 166 John Hay, Camp, 248, 251 Jones Bill, the, 222 Jota, the, 317 K

Kaawaloa, 114 Kahanamoku, Duke, 91 Kahului, 102 Kailua, 53, 114 Kaiulani, Princess, 77 Kakuhihewa, 6 Kalaimoku, 56 Kalakaua, King, 9, 73-75, 81, 118 Prince, 118 Kalamba, 131, 204 Kalanianaole, Prince Jonah Kuhio, 79 Kalanikupule, 22 Kalinga, 270 Kalingas, the, 271, 272, 289-292 Kaliuwaa, falls of, 103 Kamehameha I (the Great), 6, 11, 22, 48, 50-54, 106 heiau of, 112 birthplace of, 114 Kamehameha II, 54, 55, 57 Kamehameha III, 6, 12, 57, 59, 65 Kamehameha IV, 65 Kamehameha V, 72 Kamehameha, Fort, 25 Kamehameha School, 12 Kamehamehas, the, 31 Kanaloa, 34, 39 Kane, 34, 39, 41, 42 Kapiolani, 59, 60, 74 Katipunan, the, 169, 170-173 Kau, 112, 113 Kauai, 8, 71, 82, 115 Kawaiahao Church, 9 Kawaihae, 112 Keanonako, 12, 13 Keawe-Mauhili, 60 Keithley, Camp, 325, 334 Kilauea, 51, 60, 66, 104, 109, 112 Kinau, 12 Kohala, 114 ditch, 114 Kona, 91, 112, 113, 114 Konia, 12 Kotta, 297 Koxinga, 158 Ku, 39 Kuhio, Prince, 118 L

_Lackawanna_, the, 66, 67, 68, 70, 71 Ladrone Islands, the, 116, 150 Lahaina, 106 Laka, 40, 41, 42, 49 Lamb, Mr. , 240, 244 Mrs. , 244 Lanao, Lake, 325, 334 Lawton, General, 195 Legarda, Mr. , 131, 298 Legaspi, Miguel Lopez de, 152, 153, 158 Legaspi, 317 Lepanto, 270 Liholiho, 56 Liliuokalani, Queen, 9, 12, 75-78 Li Ma Hong, 156 Lono, 39, 49 Los Banos, 131 Lucena, 298, 302, 307 Lunalilo Home, 12 Prince, 73 Luneta, the, 126, 146, 185 Luzon, 133, 172, 176, 196, 198, 245, 257, 261, 271, 275, 297 M

MacArthur, General, 194, 196, 198 Macfarlane, Mrs. , 15 Macomb, General M. M.

, 25 Magellan, 150, 151 Makadum, 326 Makapuu Point Light, 21 Malabang, 340 Malacañan, Palace of, 126, 136 Malays, 149, 154, 245, 326 Malolos, 191, 195 Mandi, Dato, 346 Mangyans, 241 Manila, 123, 124, 128, 152, 156, 157, 159, 160, 166, 171, 173, 186, 193, 199, 222, 227, 249, 314, 315, 328 sight-seeing in, 128-147, 361-362 Manila Bay, 3, 123, 138, 157, 178 Battle of, 177, 184 Manila-Dagupan Railroad, 315 Manilibang, Dato, 337 Manobos, the, 339, 343, 345 _Marian_, the, 16 Mariveles, 123 Marshall Islands, 116 Maui Island, 8, 40, 44, 51, 62, 81, 82, 106 East, 107 demi-god, 35, 40 Mauna Kea, 108 Mauna Loa, 108, 109, 113 Mayon, Mount, 308 _McCulloch_, the, 178 McKimmon, Father, 314 McKinley, Fort, 132, 220 President, 183, 200, 207, 209 Menehunes, the, 116 Merritt, General, 183, 192 Mexico, 152, 153, 156, 157, 204 Mexicans, 192 Midway Island (Brooks), 67, 69, 70, 123 Mindanao, 150, 166, 171, 322, 325-327, 331, 339, 340 Mines, Bureau of, 141 Mirador, 253 Mitchell, Major, 266 Moanalua, 25 Molokai, 8, 63, 73, 105 Montojo, Admiral, 179 Moros, the, 124, 150, 171, 209, 222, 241, 245, 322, 325-339, 341, 342, 345-348, 350-352 Moro Province, 346 Moses, Professor, 208 Mountain Province, the, 270, 288 Musick (quoted), 18 N

Namaka, 23 Nangnui, Hadji, 347, 351 Negritos, 149, 253, 256-257 _Negros_, the, 295 island of, 359 Neumann, Paul, 15 "Noli Me Tangere" ("The Social Cancer"), 170 Nozaleda, Archbishop, 184 Nueva Viscaya, 258 Nuuanu, battle of, 22 valley, 23, 51 O

Oahu, 4, 5, 6, 8, 18, 25, 32, 51, 52, 82, 88, 103, 119 College, 8, 9 Obookiah (Opukahaia), 55 Ocampo, Pablo, 204 "Occupation Day," 296 Olongapo, 273 _Olympia_, the, 4, 178, 179 Osmeña, Mr. , 298 Otis, General, 192, 194, 198 Overton, Camp, 325 P

Paahana, 93 Paao, 31, 37 Pack, Governor, 200 Pagsanjan, 131 Paki, 12 Pakuanui, 23 Palawan, 239, 240, 357 Pali, the, 22, 23, 24, 52, 103 Panama Canal, 100, 119 Panay, 357, 359 Papa, 5, 30 Parker, Sam, 15 Pasig River, 127, 128, 225 Patterson, Admiral, 160 Paulet, Lord George, 61 Payne Bill, 358 Pearl Harbour, 21, 22, 24, 32 Pele, 37, 40, 43, 44, 51, 60, 110 Perkins, Commodore, 71 Pershing, General, 349 _Philadelphia_, the, 16 Philip II, 151 Philip III, 177 Philip V, 328 Philippine General Hospital, 141 Piang, Dato, 326, 342 Pili, 31 Pinkham, Governor, 80 Plaza McKinley, 129 Poison God, the, 105 Polo Club, 131 Polynesia, 30, 39, 40 Polynesians, 29, 30 Puerto Princessa, 240 Punahou, 8 Punchbowl, 4, 19, 20, 103 Q

Queen's Hospital, 9, 65 Quezon, Mr. , 298, 301 R

Reciprocity Treaty, 24, 73, 81, 100 _Reina Christina_, the, 179 Reynolds, Captain William, 69 Rivera, Primo de, 175 Rizal, 131, 170-172 Rizal, the, 296, 308, 309, 318, 322, 343, 354, 358 Rojesvenski, Admiral, 269 Root, Elihu, 300 Royal Hawaiian Band, 14, 74 Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the, 6 Ruger, Fort, 25 Russell, Sturgis, Oliphant and Company, 308 Ruth, Princess, 81 S

Sacaluran, Dato, 347 _Saginaw_, the, 71 Samar, 317 Sandwich Islands, 49 San Lazaro, 157, 227, 231 San Mateo, 195 San Miguel, 130 Santa Cruz, 195 Santa Maria Cristina, 334 Santiago, Fort, 172 Sargent, Major, 340 School of Arts and Trades, the, 312 Science, Bureau of, 141, 142, 353 Seaman's Act, 86 Sepulchre, Padre, 286 Sewall, Mr. , 16 Shafter, Fort, 25 Shark King (story of), 45-47 Sibley, Miss, 133 Sicard, Lieutenant-Commander, 71 Sokabe, Rev. S.

(quoted), 117 Spain, 155, 156, 158, 159, 167, 168, 175, 218 Spreckles, Mr. Claus, 81 Stevens, Mr. (Minister to Hawaii), 76 Stoddard, Charles W. (quoted), 24 Strong, Dr. Richard P. , 229 Subig Bay, 178, 273 Suez Canal, the, 156, 164 Sugar Planters' Association, 99 Sulu, 326, 350 Sea, 322, 353 Sultan of, 326 Sy Cip, Mr. Alfonso Tarata, 320 T

Taft, President, 126, 137, 207-209 Tagalogs, the (Tagals), 139, 165, 167 Tagudin, 274, 276, 295 Talbot, Lieutenant, 71 Tantalus, Mt. , 19 Thatcher, Rear Admiral, 67 Thomas, Admiral, 61 _Times_, the Manila, 216, 349 Tingians, the, 256, 257 Tobaco, 309 Topside, 249 Trail and Mountain Club, 103 Treaty of Paris, the (c. 1762), 159 1899, 206, 207 Twain, Mark (quoted), 8, 105 V

Vancouver, Captain George, 50, 51 Villaloboz, Ruy Lopez de, 151 Visayas, the, 176 W

Wahaula (temple of), 37 Wahiawa, 103 Waialua, 92, 95, 97, 98 Waianae, 82 Waikiki, 10, 15, 17, 20, 25, 103 Wailuku, 106 Waimanu (valley), 115 Waimea, 115 Gulch, 115 Waipio (valley), 115 Wakea, 4, 5, 30 Wekolo Pond, 32 Welles, Mr. , 67 White, Dr. , 253 Whitmarsh, Mrs. , 250 Mr. , 251 Widemann, Judge, 4, 14, 82 Wilcox, Robert W. , 73 rebellion, 73 Wilder, Mrs. , 15 Wilson, President, 79, 212 Wisser, General J. P.

, 26 Wood, General, 325 Worcester, Mr. Dean C. , 141, 142, 208, 213, 218, 228, 248, 272, 286, 300 (quoted), 167, 217, 221, 257, 292, 348, 356 Wright, Luke E. , 208 Y

Ynock, 342 Yongs, Mr. , 160 Young, Captain Lucien, 74 Young, John, 50 Z

Zamboanga, 331, 343, 349 FOOTNOTES:

[1] When the mamo became rare the natives began to substitute the light yellow feathers growing under the wings of the _o-o_.

This bird is now extinct.

[2] In the first Reciprocity Treaty with Hawaii, which was signed in Grant's administration, there was no reference to Pearl Harbour.

It was when the treaty was renewed in a revised form during the administration of President Harrison, that Hawaii ceded Pearl Harbour to the United States as a naval base.

[3] General M. M.

Macomb was in command from 1911 to 1913, General Frederick Funston during 1914, General W. H.

Carter followed and General J.

P.

Wisser is there in command to-day.

[4] Even to a late date this custom has been known in civilized countries.

In France a figure of one's enemy was modeled in wax and was slowly melted before the fire while being "prayed to death."

[5] The legend which ascribes the creation of man to Kane is only one of many Hawaiian creation myths, in which other gods figure as fathers of the human race.

[6] A.

Fornander, "The Polynesian Race."

[7] Guam belonged to Spain until Colonel Thomas Anderson stopped there on his way to the Philippines with the first United States troops.

The Spanish governor had not even heard that war was declared, and when the ships fired, he thought it was a salute in his honour.

He surrendered the fifteen small islands; fourteen were given back to Spain in the Treaty of Paris and they were sold to Germany.

Guam has an excellent harbour.

It is under the control of the United States Navy at present.

Marines are stationed there.

[8] The party at present in power in the United States appears to have given very little attention to the Islands, except as a source of income for deserving Democrats, if we may judge from the latest Democratic platform.

That document contains the promise, "as soon as practicable, to give a territorial form of government to Hawaii."

For eighteen years they have had it!

[9] When Mr. Dole's term as United States judge expired a few months ago, President Wilson refused to reappoint him, though all Hawaii petitioned for him.

The position was given to a Democrat.

[10] Castle says Halemaumau really means, "home of the _Maumau_ fern," this fern having a leaf much like the curled and twisted lava in shape.

[11] A trip to the Lake of Bay should be taken and to the fertile valley of the Cagayan.

The gorge of Pagsanjan is very beautiful.

Los Banos is an old bathing establishment not far from Kalamba, where Rizal was born.

It is part of a day's trip from Manila to this hot mineral spring, which was a fashionable resort in days gone by.

Now an American military hospital has been built there.

[12] The American coloured troops in the Philippines certainly deserve mention.

They were among the best fighters we sent out there.

[13] Koxinga was really one of the most noted characters of the Orient at that time.

He was the son of a Japanese mother and a Chinese father, and seldom has China had a man to compare with him in courage, enterprise and ability.

At the age of twenty-two, he held one of the highest military commands in his country.

With his courage and natural ability it was his purpose to carve out a kingdom for himself.

Being as shrewd as he was bold, Koxinga made the acquaintance of a Dominican friar in Amoy, whom he converted into an ambassador and sent to Manila.

Fortunately for the Spaniards, Koxinga's career was cut short by his early death, in 1662, while still under forty years of age, and just as he was making preparations to invade the Philippines.

[14] To-day Aguinaldo seems to be a thoroughly "reconstructed rebel," as this incident told by General Anderson's daughter shows: "While spending the day with friends who have a sugar estate near Kalamba, our party was augmented by Aguinaldo, Pablo Ocampo and another ilustrado whose name I've forgotten.

They had come over from Cavite, where Aguinaldo has his farm, to see this estate with its modern sugar machinery.

After going over the farm very thoroughly with the party I found myself next the former General at lunch.

Conversation was difficult, as he spoke no English and not very fluent Spanish.

I timidly asked him in desperation of something to say, if he remembered my father.

On learning that he was the first Americano General to fight him, over fifteen years before, he became most interested, and asked very warmly to be remembered.

When I told him my father was also retired and settled on his little farm he was pleased and said it was the real life.

I think he is sincerely a farmer and will not be lured back to the hazards of political life.

He is a modest, quiet, diffident little native of the pure Filipino type.

He assured me that his children were making good progress in English and were at school working hard."

[15] After Mr. Taft had made his journey to Rome to arrange the friar land question, he received a remarkable ovation upon his return to the Philippines.

When he was appointed Secretary of War, Manila was flooded with posters bearing the words, in various languages, "We want Taft," and such a host of petitions from influential citizens was sent to Washington that Mr. Roosevelt canceled the appointment.

It was not until some time later that it was renewed and Mr. Taft left the Philippines to take his seat in the Cabinet at Washington.

[16] It is difficult to realize the importance of the mestizo class in the Philippines.

There are about seventy-five thousand Spanish mestizos and half a million Chinese mestizos.

[17] Any one who is inclined to regret American rule in the Islands is cordially invited to read chapter sixteen in Dean Worcester's book, "The Philippines, Past and Present."

[18] The cause of the pneumonic plague is so little known that it may be interesting to mention it here.

The disease, it is said, is carried by marmots.

It had not broken out since the fourteenth century, because Manchu hunters had for generations been taught not to kill marmots for this very reason.

But in late years, with the great demand for furs, new hunters who knew nothing of this, killed the diseased marmots and so caused an epidemic.

[19] The name "Bashee," originally applied to the Batan Islands, was derived from an intoxicating drink of that name made from sugar-cane and berries.

It is still used very liberally, especially on all festal occasions.

When Dampier's ships first touched these shores the _Bashee_ was highly regarded by these ancient mariners.

[20] Although we think of Japanese territory as far away from ours, here it approaches within sixty miles, as I have said, and within twenty-four miles of Guam the Japanese have lately occupied the former German islands of the Mariana group.

In Bering Straits we are within three miles of Russian territory.

There are two islands, the Diomedes, in the center of the strait, one of which is owned by Russia and the other by the United States.

We usually consider both Japan and Russia very far off, but their possessions are in fact almost as near ours as Canada and Mexico.

[21] An interesting passage from Worcester describes this Kalinga dance with more detail: "Into the ring steps the hero of the occasion, dressed in his best clothes, decked with his gaudiest ornaments, and bearing the shield, lance and head-ax used in the recent fights.

Behind him there creeps along the ground a strange, shrinking figure, clad in soiled garments, with a dirty cotton blanket pulled over its head.

The hero attracts attention to himself by emitting a squall which resembles nothing so much as the yell of a puppy when its tail is heavily trodden upon.

He then begins to speak in a monotonous and highly artificial voice, the tone and cadences of which are strongly suggestive of those of a Japanese actor.

With word and gesture he describes his recent exploit, using the shrinking figure beside him as a dummy to represent his fallen foe.

When he stops for breath the ganzas strike up again, and when their clangour ceases he resumes his narrative.

After concluding his pantomimic discussion of his latest exploit, he describes and boasts of previous achievements.

Incidentally he indulges in high stepping and high jumping and displays deadly skill in the manipulation of his weapons.

The crowd grows even more excited and, during the intervals while the ganzas are playing, shrieks its approval and shrills its monotonous war cry.

Finally when his voice has grown hoarse and his muscles are tired, the principal actor retires and another takes his place.

As darkness comes on, a blazing fire is lighted within the cañao circle.

"Ultimately the young and vigorous warriors who participated in the recent fight are succeeded by the old men, who have been kept at home by the burden of years and infirmities.

Strong drink has caused the dying fire in their veins to flare up for the moment.

Each of them has a history of warlike deeds, which he proceeds to recount.

The crowd already knows his story by heart, and when the forgetfulness of age or that of intoxication causes him to falter, prompts him and shouts with laughter at the joke.

"Gradually the _basi_ begins to exert its stupefying effect; but so long as the music and dancing, and the shouting continue every one manages to keep awake.

At last, food is passed, and in the interval during which it is being consumed the liquor gets a fair chance to work.

As the east begins to glow with the coming dawn, men and women fall asleep in their places, or hasten to their homes, and the cañao ends, for the time being at least."

[22] It is not so well known in this country as in the Far East that the fine code of laws which we have given the Philippines was drafted by our great statesman, Elihu Root, with the aid of some suggestions from Mr. Worcester.

[23] I have taken a few remarks from several speeches.

[24] The ascent of Mt. Mayon is dangerous except for experienced mountain climbers.

The vista from the summit is said to surpass even the famous view from Mt. Ætna.

[25] The Santo Niño of Cebu has a famous rival in the village of Antipolo where "Our Lady of Peace and Prosperous Voyages" is found.

This image was brought to the Islands in 1626 by the Spanish government.

It is said the Virgin has crossed the Pacific eight times to and from Mexico and each time "calmed a tempest."

[26] This great missionary is buried on the island of Sibutu.

[27] Worcester writes in regard to fishing: "There are barracudas of seven different species, some of which attain a length of six feet and weigh a hundred pounds or more.

Bonitos of four different species have been taken, and afford fine sport.

Croakers and groupers (locally known as _lapu-lapu_) are found in great variety.

Hardtails and leather-jacks, commonly called _dorados_, are also very abundant.

They take the spoon freely and fight well.

There are also several species of mackerel and _pampano_, which are excellent table fish; and snappers, of which we have thirty-four known species.

The large red snappers fight well.

Sea-bass of two distinct species are common.

Specimens weighing fifty to seventy-five pounds are frequently seen in the markets.

The largest specimen as yet recorded from the Islands weighed three hundred thirty-four and a fourth pounds.

"Swordfish, nine feet or more in length, may be taken during the cooler months.

Tarpons up to five feet in length may be taken at the proper season, off the mouths of large streams.

The species are distinct from that found in Atlantic waters, and the young take the fly freely.

"The great, or leaping, tunas are met with in large schools during the winter months.

The natives call them _cachareta_."

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