Visit to Three Fronts: June 1916 — A Glimpse of the French Line, II

II.

There is a couplet of Stevenson's which haunts me, 'There fell a war in a woody place--in a land beyond the sea.'

I have just come back from spending three wonderful dream days in that woody place.

It lies with the open, bosky country of Verdun on its immediate right, and the chalk downs of Champagne upon its left.

If one could imagine the lines being taken right through our New Forest or the American Adirondacks it would give some idea of the terrain, save that it is a very undulating country of abrupt hills and dales.

It is this peculiarity which has made the war on this front different to any other, more picturesque and more secret.

In front the fighting lines are half in the clay soil, half behind the shelter of fallen trunks.

Between the two the main bulk of the soldiers live like animals of the woodlands, burrowing on the hillsides and among the roots of the trees.

It is a war by itself, and a very wonderful one to see.

At three different points I have visited the front in this broad region, wandering from the lines of one army corps to that of another.

In all three I found the same conditions, and in all three I found also the same pleasing fact which I had discovered at Soissons, that the fire of the French was at least five, and very often ten shots to one of the Boche.

It used not to be so.

The Germans used to scrupulously return shot for shot.

But whether they have moved their guns to the neighbouring Verdun, or whether, as is more likely, all the munitions are going there, it is certain that they were very outclassed upon the three days (June 10, 11, 12) which I allude to.

There were signs that for some reason their spirits were at a low ebb.

On the evening before our arrival the French had massed all their bands at the front, and, in honour of the Russian victory, had played the Marseillaise and the Russian National hymn, winding up with general shoutings and objurgations calculated to annoy.

Failing to stir up the Boche, they had ended by a salute from a hundred shotted guns.

After trailing their coats up and down the line they had finally to give up the attempt to draw the enemy.

Want of food may possibly have caused a decline in the German spirit.

There is some reason to believe that they feed up their fighting men at the places like Verdun or Hooge, where they need all their energy, at the expense of the men who are on the defensive.

If so, we may find it out when we attack.

The French officers assured me that the prisoners and deserters made bitter complaints of their scale of rations.

And yet it is hard to believe that the fine efforts of our enemy at Verdun are the work of half-starved men.

* * * * * To return to my personal impressions, it was at Chalons that we left the Paris train--a town which was just touched by the most forward ripple of the first great German floodtide.

A drive of some twenty miles took us to St. Menehould, and another ten brought us to the front in the sector of Divisional-General H. A fine soldier this, and heaven help Germany if he and his division get within its borders, for he is, as one can see at a glance, a man of iron who has been goaded to fierceness by all that his beloved country has endured.

He is a man of middle size, swarthy, hawk-like, very abrupt in his movements, with two steel grey eyes, which are the most searching that mine have ever met.

His hospitality and courtesy to us were beyond all bounds, but there is another side to him, and it is one which it is wiser not to provoke.

In person he took us to his lines, passing through the usual shot-torn villages behind them.

Where the road dips down into the great forest there is one particular spot which is visible to the German artillery observers.

The General mentioned it at the time, but his remark seemed to have no personal interest.

We understood it better on our return in the evening.

Now we found ourselves in the depths of the woods, primeval woods of oak and beech in the deep clay soil that the great oak loves.

There had been rain and the forest paths were ankle deep in mire.

Everywhere, to right and left, soldiers' faces, hard and rough from a year of open air, gazed up at us from their burrows in the ground.

Presently an alert, blue-clad figure stood in the path to greet us.

It was the Colonel of the sector.

He was ridiculously like Cyrano de Bergerac as depicted by the late M. Coquelin, save that his nose was of more moderate proportion.

The ruddy colouring, the bristling feline full-ended moustache, the solidity of pose, the backward tilt of the head, the general suggestion of the bantam cock, were all there facing us as he stood amid the leaves in the sunlight.

Gauntlets and a long rapier--nothing else was wanting.

Something had amused Cyrano.

His moustache quivered with suppressed mirth, and his blue eyes were demurely gleaming.

Then the joke came out.

He had spotted a German working party, his guns had concentrated on it, and afterwards he had seen the stretchers go forward.

A grim joke, it may seem.

But the French see this war from a different angle to us.

If we had the Boche sitting on our heads for two years, and were not yet quite sure whether we could ever get him off again, we should get Cyrano's point of view.

Those of us who have had our folk murdered by Zeppelins or tortured in German prisons have probably got it already.

* * * * * We passed in a little procession among the French soldiers, and viewed their multifarious arrangements.

For them we were a little break in a monotonous life, and they formed up in lines as we passed.

My own British uniform and the civilian dresses of my two companions interested them.

As the General passed these groups, who formed themselves up in perhaps a more familiar manner than would have been usual in the British service, he glanced kindly at them with those singular eyes of his, and once or twice addressed them as 'Mes enfants.'

One might conceive that all was 'go as you please' among the French.

So it is as long as you go in the right way.

When you stray from it you know it.

As we passed a group of men standing on a low ridge which overlooked us there was a sudden stop.

I gazed round.

The General's face was steel and cement.

The eyes were cold and yet fiery, sunlight upon icicles.

Something had happened.

Cyrano had sprung to his side.

His reddish moustache had shot forward beyond his nose, and it bristled out like that of an angry cat.

Both were looking up at the group above us.

One wretched man detached himself from his comrades and sidled down the slope.

No skipper and mate of a Yankee blood boat could have looked more ferociously at a mutineer.

And yet it was all over some minor breach of discipline which was summarily disposed of by two days of confinement.

Then in an instant the faces relaxed, there was a general buzz of relief and we were back at 'Mes enfants' again.

But don't make any mistake as to discipline in the French army.

Trenches are trenches, and the main specialty of these in the Argonne is that they are nearer to the enemy.

In fact there are places where they interlock, and where the advanced posts lie cheek by jowl with a good steel plate to cover both cheek and jowl.

We were brought to a sap-head where the Germans were at the other side of a narrow forest road.

Had I leaned forward with extended hand and a Boche done the same we could have touched.

I looked across, but saw only a tangle of wire and sticks.

Even whispering was not permitted in these forward posts.

* * * * * When we emerged from these hushed places of danger Cyrano took us all to his dug-out, which was a tasty little cottage carved from the side of a hill and faced with logs.

He did the honours of the humble cabin with the air of a seigneur in his château.

There was little furniture, but from some broken mansion he had extracted an iron fire-back, which adorned his grate.

It was a fine, mediaeval bit of work, with Venus, in her traditional costume, in the centre of it.

It seemed the last touch in the picture of the gallant, virile Cyrano.

I only met him this once, nor shall I ever see him again, yet he stands a thing complete within my memory.

Even now as I write these lines he walks the leafy paths of the Argonne, his fierce eyes ever searching for the Boche workers, his red moustache bristling over their annihilation.

He seems a figure out of the past of France.

That night we dined with yet another type of the French soldier, General A. , who commands the corps of which my friend has one division.

Each of these French generals has a striking individuality of his own which I wish I could fix upon paper.

Their only common point is that each seems to be a rare good soldier.

The corps general is Athos with a touch of d'Artagnan.

He is well over six feet high, bluff, jovial, with huge, up-curling moustache, and a voice that would rally a regiment.

It is a grand figure which should have been done by Van Dyck with lace collar, hand on sword, and arm akimbo.

Jovial and laughing was he, but a stern and hard soldier was lurking behind the smiles.

His name may appear in history, and so may Humbert's, who rules all the army of which the other's corps is a unit.

Humbert is a Lord Robert's figure, small, wiry, quick-stepping, all steel and elastic, with a short, sharp upturned moustache, which one could imagine as crackling with electricity in moments of excitement like a cat's fur.

What he does or says is quick, abrupt, and to the point.

He fires his remarks like pistol shots at this man or that.

Once to my horror he fixed me with his hard little eyes and demanded 'Sherlock Holmes, est ce qu'il est un soldat dans l'armée Anglaise?'

The whole table waited in an awful hush.

'Mais, mon general,' I stammered, 'il est trop vieux pour service.'

There was general laughter, and I felt that I had scrambled out of an awkward place.

And talking of awkward places, I had forgotten about that spot upon the road whence the Boche observer could see our motor-cars.

He had actually laid a gun upon it, the rascal, and waited all the long day for our return.

No sooner did we appear upon the slope than a shrapnel shell burst above us, but somewhat behind me, as well as to the left.

Had it been straight the second car would have got it, and there might have been a vacancy in one of the chief editorial chairs in London.

The General shouted to the driver to speed up, and we were soon safe from the German gunners.

One gets perfectly immune to noises in these scenes, for the guns which surround you make louder crashes than any shell which bursts about you.

It is only when you actually see the cloud over you that your thoughts come back to yourself, and that you realise that in this wonderful drama you may be a useless super, but none the less you are on the stage and not in the stalls.

* * * * * Next morning we were down in the front trenches again at another portion of the line.

Far away on our right, from a spot named the Observatory, we could see the extreme left of the Verdun position and shells bursting on the Fille Morte.

To the north of us was a broad expanse of sunny France, nestling villages, scattered châteaux, rustic churches, and all as inaccessible as if it were the moon.

It is a terrible thing this German bar--a thing unthinkable to Britons.

To stand on the edge of Yorkshire and look into Lancashire feeling that it is in other hands, that our fellow-countrymen are suffering there and waiting, waiting, for help, and that we cannot, after two years, come a yard nearer to them--would it not break our hearts?

Can I wonder that there is no smile upon the grim faces of these Frenchmen!

But when the bar is broken, when the line sweeps forward, as most surely it will, when French bayonets gleam on yonder uplands and French flags break from those village spires--ah, what a day that will be!

Men will die that day from the pure, delirious joy of it.

We cannot think what it means to France, and the less so because she stands so nobly patient waiting for her hour.

Yet another type of French general takes us round this morning!

He, too, is a man apart, an unforgettable man.

Conceive a man with a large broad good-humoured face, and two placid, dark seal's eyes which gaze gently into yours.

He is young and has pink cheeks and a soft voice.

Such is one of the most redoubtable fighters of France, this General of Division D. His former staff officers told me something of the man.

He is a philosopher, a fatalist, impervious to fear, a dreamer of distant dreams amid the most furious bombardment.

The weight of the French assault upon the terrible labyrinth fell at one time upon the brigade which he then commanded.

He led them day after day gathering up Germans with the detached air of the man of science who is hunting for specimens.

In whatever shell-hole he might chance to lunch he had his cloth spread and decorated with wild flowers plucked from the edge.

If fate be kind to him he will go far.

Apart from his valour he is admitted to be one of the most scientific soldiers of France.

From the Observatory we saw the destruction of a German trench.

There had been signs of work upon it, so it was decided to close it down.

It was a very visible brown streak a thousand yards away.

The word was passed back to the '75's' in the rear.

There was a 'tir rapide' over our heads.

My word, the man who stands fast under a 'tir rapide,' be he Boche, French or British, is a man of mettle!

The mere passage of the shells was awe-inspiring, at first like the screaming of a wintry wind, and then thickening into the howling of a pack of wolves.

The trench was a line of terrific explosions.

Then the dust settled down and all was still.

Where were the ants who had made the nest?

Were they buried beneath it?

Or had they got from under?

No one could say.

There was one little gun which fascinated me, and I stood for some time watching it.

Its three gunners, enormous helmeted men, evidently loved it, and touched it with a swift but tender touch in every movement.

When it was fired it ran up an inclined plane to take off the recoil, rushing up and then turning and rattling down again upon the gunners who were used to its ways.

The first time it did it, I was standing behind it, and I don't know which moved quickest--the gun or I. French officers above a certain rank develop and show their own individuality.

In the lower grades the conditions of service enforce a certain uniformity.

The British officer is a British gentleman first, and an officer afterwards.

The Frenchman is an officer first, though none the less the gentleman stands behind it.

One very strange type we met, however, in these Argonne Woods.

He was a French-Canadian who had been a French soldier, had founded a homestead in far Alberta, and had now come back of his own will, though a naturalised Briton, to the old flag.

He spoke English of a kind, the quality and quantity being equally extraordinary.

It poured from him and was, so far as it was intelligible, of the woolly Western variety.

His views on the Germans were the most emphatic we had met.

'These Godam sons of'--well, let us say 'Canines!'

he would shriek, shaking his fist at the woods to the north of him.

A good man was our compatriot, for he had a very recent Legion of Honour pinned upon his breast.

He had been put with a few men on Hill 285, a sort of volcano stuffed with mines, and was told to telephone when he needed relief.

He refused to telephone and remained there for three weeks.

'We sit like a rabbit in his hall,' he explained.

He had only one grievance.

There were many wild boars in the forest, but the infantry were too busy to get them.

'The Godam Artillaree he get the wild pig!'

Out of his pocket he pulled a picture of a frame-house with snow round it, and a lady with two children on the stoop.

It was his homestead at Trochu, seventy miles north of Calgary.

* * * * * It was the evening of the third day that we turned our faces to Paris once more.

It was my last view of the French.

The roar of their guns went far with me upon my way.

Soldiers of France, farewell!

In your own phrase I salute you!

Many have seen you who had more knowledge by which to judge your manifold virtues, many also who had more skill to draw you as you are, but never one, I am sure, who admired you more than I. Great was the French soldier under Louis the Sun-King, great too under Napoleon, but never was he greater than to-day.

And so it is back to England and to home.

I feel sobered and solemn from all that I have seen.

It is a blind vision which does not see more than the men and the guns, which does not catch something of the terrific spiritual conflict which is at the heart of it.

Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord --He is trampling out the vineyard where the grapes of wrath are stored.

We have found no inspired singer yet, like Julia Howe, to voice the divine meaning of it all--that meaning which is more than numbers or guns upon the day of battle.

But who can see the adult manhood of Europe standing in a double line, waiting for a signal to throw themselves upon each other, without knowing that he has looked upon the most terrific of all the dealings between the creature below and that great force above, which works so strangely towards some distant but glorious end?

ARTHUR CONAN DOYLE.

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